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Finishing wet wood
Hello all,
I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as well, or does it need to have a thin wall? Thanks for any advice you've got! |
#2
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"Prometheus" wrote in message news Hello all, I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as well, or does it need to have a thin wall? Thanks for any advice you've got! "Standard procedure" is anything but an occlusive coating in my house. Maple looks best without black mildew spots. You really want to get the moisture content down before anchorsealing or such, or woods with the sap up can grow some remarkably ugly things. Remember, the ride to the fiber saturation point is free of cracks or distortion. That's ~30%, with mildew and fungal growth stopping at ~20%, so plan accordingly. What's going to happen with the shellac? Don't know. If you cut thin and spun hard, you took it off the lathe at about 30%. I'd get it out of the humidity, but not into the sun and hope for the best. Shellac will tolerate a certain amount of excess water, but it looks milky with the stuff trapped under. |
#3
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I would agree with George that finishing is probably best left until the
bowl is dry. If you must finish it straight away, a non curing finish like mineral oil or beeswax might be a better compromise. If you turn the bowl thin enough, it will warp rather than crack. Here is a yellow birch bowl that I turned recently: http://chipshop.blogspot.com/2005/04/warped-bowl.html It is now dry and waiting for the base to be trued up before finishing. -- Derek Andrews, woodturner http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com http://chipshop.blogspot.com http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/ |
#4
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Derek, You can take wet turned bowls, dry them slowly, then sand and finish. If your turning tecnique is good enough, you can wet sand them before drying. The main thing with this style is to turn fairly thin,with even wall thickness at 3/8 to 1/4 inch. If it is fairly humid where you are, just setting on a shelf, out of sun and wind, will work. You can also brown bag it which creates a stable mini enviroment for the bowl to dry in. The bowl will warp, and seldom cracks. It can be dry enough to sand and oil finish in a week to a month. If it still feels cool to the touch, it needs to dry a bit longer. Fruit woods seem to be way more prone to splitting if they are thicker than 1/4 inch. Maple seems to be okay up to 1/2 inch thick. robo hippy Derek Andrews wrote: I would agree with George that finishing is probably best left until the bowl is dry. If you must finish it straight away, a non curing finish like mineral oil or beeswax might be a better compromise. If you turn the bowl thin enough, it will warp rather than crack. Here is a yellow birch bowl that I turned recently: http://chipshop.blogspot.com/2005/04/warped-bowl.html It is now dry and waiting for the base to be trued up before finishing. -- Derek Andrews, woodturner http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com http://chipshop.blogspot.com http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/ |
#5
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"robo hippy" wrote in message oups.com... Derek, You can take wet turned bowls, dry them slowly, then sand and finish. If your turning tecnique is good enough, you can wet sand them before drying. The main thing with this style is to turn fairly thin,with even wall thickness at 3/8 to 1/4 inch. If it is fairly humid where you are, just setting on a shelf, out of sun and wind, will work. You can also brown bag it which creates a stable mini enviroment for the bowl to dry in. The bowl will warp, and seldom cracks. It can be dry enough to sand and oil finish in a week to a month. If it still feels cool to the touch, it needs to dry a bit longer. Fruit woods seem to be way more prone to splitting if they are thicker than 1/4 inch. Maple seems to be okay up to 1/2 inch thick. robo hippy Well, here's my experience. If you think of what prevents checking - since checks become splits - a moisture gradient which keeps the surface almost as wet (dry) as the interior, thin is great for all woods. Only ones I've had problems with, depending on the slope of the walls, have been woods with built-in cleavage plates - medullary rays - like oak and beech. Of fruit woods, I've only turned cherry and apple. Two other good things about thin are the fact that you can throw almost all the unbound moisture by centrifugal force, and the wood has less substance to pull against and distort. As to dry times, it depends on the relative humidity. Consider that a plank will lose or gain about one percent per week according to the FPL, and then remember that water migrates 10-15 times as fast from end grain as from the face, and you'd really have to have some strange circumstances to have a bowl which took more than two weeks to EMC at less than a half inch thick. |
#6
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Prometheus wrote:
Hello all, I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as well, or does it need to have a thin wall? Thanks for any advice you've got! And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish detergent and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish. Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had no problems with any of my pieces splitting. Deb |
#7
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"Dr. Deb" wrote in message ... Prometheus wrote: Hello all, I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as well, or does it need to have a thin wall? Thanks for any advice you've got! And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish detergent and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish. Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had no problems with any of my pieces splitting. Deb *APPLAUSE, LOUD HUZZAHS, BELLS RINGING, CANNONS FIRING, 1812 OVERTURE CRESCENDOS* Leif |
#8
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On Tue, 17 May 2005 13:20:16 -0500, "Dr. Deb"
wrote: And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish detergent and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish. Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had no problems with any of my pieces splitting. How exactly is this supposed to work? Does the detergent lower the moisture content of the wood somehow? I'm not saying it doesn't work, of course, just wondering why it would. One of the other responses mentioned that the wood may appear milky under the finish without drying it, does the LDD method cause that to occur, or does the soaked wood behave in effectively the same manner as dried wood? I'll definately give it a try, as I've heard of this before. Thanks for filling in the details of the method. To fill in a couple of details from my original post, the bowl in question is about 5" dia x 3" deep with a wall thickness of about 3/8", and slightly thicker (perhaps 1/2") on the bottom. I did the final cuts at a spindle speed of 1750 rpm, and sanded for a heck of a long time to clean up some tearout on the end grain, and got the piece fairly hot. Sanded though the grits to 400 (60, 100, 120, 220, 320, 400), and then burnished the piece with the shavings. No way of telling what the moisture content ended up being. |
#9
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"Prometheus" wrote in message ... To fill in a couple of details from my original post, the bowl in question is about 5" dia x 3" deep with a wall thickness of about 3/8", and slightly thicker (perhaps 1/2") on the bottom. I did the final cuts at a spindle speed of 1750 rpm, and sanded for a heck of a long time to clean up some tearout on the end grain, and got the piece fairly hot. Sanded though the grits to 400 (60, 100, 120, 220, 320, 400), and then burnished the piece with the shavings. No way of telling what the moisture content ended up being. VERY low. You cut thin, spun well - bet you saw the water on the end grain - and then heated it by sanding. NB on shaving burnishing. Don't do it if you are careless when cleaning your lathe. One or two maple curls can do some distressing things to an aspen bowl. |
#10
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On Wed, 18 May 2005 07:00:12 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:
"Prometheus" wrote in message .. . To fill in a couple of details from my original post, the bowl in question is about 5" dia x 3" deep with a wall thickness of about 3/8", and slightly thicker (perhaps 1/2") on the bottom. I did the final cuts at a spindle speed of 1750 rpm, and sanded for a heck of a long time to clean up some tearout on the end grain, and got the piece fairly hot. Sanded though the grits to 400 (60, 100, 120, 220, 320, 400), and then burnished the piece with the shavings. No way of telling what the moisture content ended up being. VERY low. You cut thin, spun well - bet you saw the water on the end grain - and then heated it by sanding. I was wondering about that. There was a little water at first, but it dried up pretty quickly. And the bowl hasn't changed a fraction of an inch in the past two or three days, so I figure it's probably going to be okay. NB on shaving burnishing. Don't do it if you are careless when cleaning your lathe. One or two maple curls can do some distressing things to an aspen bowl. I get the whole area with a shop vac (vacuum and then blow it off) between wood types, so it hasn't been a problem for me. Learned my lesson about aspen with a chessboard I made last fall- the dark squares are aromatic cedar, and the aspen turned a bit pink when I sanded the two together. Still looks nice, but that's the last time I mix aspen and anything else! |
#11
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On Thu, 19 May 2005 05:19:18 -0500, Prometheus wrote:
NB on shaving burnishing. Don't do it if you are careless when cleaning your lathe. One or two maple curls can do some distressing things to an aspen bowl. I get the whole area with a shop vac (vacuum and then blow it off) between wood types, so it hasn't been a problem for me. Learned my lesson about aspen with a chessboard I made last fall- the dark squares are aromatic cedar, and the aspen turned a bit pink when I sanded the two together. Still looks nice, but that's the last time I mix aspen and anything else! hmm... never worked with it, but it sounds like you really have to cover your aspen! mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#12
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"Prometheus" wrote in message ... On Tue, 17 May 2005 13:20:16 -0500, "Dr. Deb" wrote: And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish detergent and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish. Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had no problems with any of my pieces splitting. How exactly is this supposed to work? Does the detergent lower the moisture content of the wood somehow? I'm not saying it doesn't work, of course, just wondering why it would. One of the other responses mentioned that the wood may appear milky under the finish without drying it, does the LDD method cause that to occur, or does the soaked wood behave in effectively the same manner as dried wood? I'll definately give it a try, as I've heard of this before. Thanks for filling in the details of the method. SNIP Its manner of action can be only speculated on. Some ascribe mystical, alchemical qualities to it, but a "vast consensus" of turners (errh, well, at least myself and two others!) seem to believe that the soap solution draws out water from the cell walls and replaces it with some substance in the soap. I have never had a finish appear milky from use of the soap solution. It makes the wood cut easier. And it takes any kind of finish with the wood still damp after final turning and sanding. Don't mention that I sent you the samizdat on The Soap Solution as you will receive the same scorn and loathing that I have had to suffer from the reactionary turners. You know the type: the boilers, the bakers, the microwavers, the soakers, the spin driers, the drycleaners, the air driers for ten years, etc. They will cause you to doubt the truth behind The Soap Solution, yea, verily, to cause it to appear un-Constitutional. Heed not the fearmongers! I am available for a limited time only free consultation by email. *G* Leif P.S. I have turned complete salad sets for my two nieces (18 Pieces in all) and not a one has warped or gone out of round. Maybe it is the type of oak that is referred to above, but in my experience, if you follow the directions you will not suffer from cracked, out-of-round turned items, chilblains, cracked hands, low libido, etc!*G* |
#13
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On Wed, 18 May 2005 11:24:25 -0700, "Leif Thorvaldson"
wrote: Its manner of action can be only speculated on. Some ascribe mystical, alchemical qualities to it, but a "vast consensus" of turners (errh, well, at least myself and two others!) seem to believe that the soap solution draws out water from the cell walls and replaces it with some substance in the soap. I have never had a finish appear milky from use of the soap solution. It makes the wood cut easier. And it takes any kind of finish with the wood still damp after final turning and sanding. Don't mention that I sent you the samizdat on The Soap Solution as you will receive the same scorn and loathing that I have had to suffer from the reactionary turners. You know the type: the boilers, the bakers, the microwavers, the soakers, the spin driers, the drycleaners, the air driers for ten years, etc. They will cause you to doubt the truth behind The Soap Solution, yea, verily, to cause it to appear un-Constitutional. Heed not the fearmongers! I am available for a limited time only free consultation by email. *G* ROFL! So, if I use the method, do I get to learn the secret handshake? If you've actually got a blurb on it handy, you can email it to me at (remove the obvious NOSPAM, of course) I figure it's worth a try, at any rate. So, have you only tried this with dishwashing detergent, or have you tried out simple glycerine as well? I haven't gone out and priced them, but I would suspect that glycerine flakes can be had in a reasonably large volume for far less than a commerical soap. That'd also narrow down the list of possible chemicals that are working in the wood to one. Leif P.S. I have turned complete salad sets for my two nieces (18 Pieces in all) and not a one has warped or gone out of round. Maybe it is the type of oak that is referred to above, but in my experience, if you follow the directions you will not suffer from cracked, out-of-round turned items, chilblains, cracked hands, low libido, etc!*G* |
#14
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On Wed, 18 May 2005 11:24:25 -0700, "Leif Thorvaldson" wrote:
"Prometheus" wrote in message .. . On Tue, 17 May 2005 13:20:16 -0500, "Dr. Deb" wrote: And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish detergent and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish. Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had no problems with any of my pieces splitting. How exactly is this supposed to work? Does the detergent lower the moisture content of the wood somehow? I'm not saying it doesn't work, of course, just wondering why it would. One of the other responses mentioned that the wood may appear milky under the finish without drying it, does the LDD method cause that to occur, or does the soaked wood behave in effectively the same manner as dried wood? I'll definately give it a try, as I've heard of this before. Thanks for filling in the details of the method. SNIP Its manner of action can be only speculated on. Some ascribe mystical, alchemical qualities to it, but a "vast consensus" of turners (errh, well, at least myself and two others!) seem to believe that the soap solution draws out water from the cell walls and replaces it with some substance in the soap. I have never had a finish appear milky from use of the soap solution. It makes the wood cut easier. And it takes any kind of finish with the wood still damp after final turning and sanding. Don't mention that I sent you the samizdat on The Soap Solution as you will receive the same scorn and loathing that I have had to suffer from the reactionary turners. You know the type: the boilers, the bakers, the microwavers, the soakers, the spin driers, the drycleaners, the air driers for ten years, etc. They will cause you to doubt the truth behind The Soap Solution, yea, verily, to cause it to appear un-Constitutional. Heed not the fearmongers! I am available for a limited time only free consultation by email. *G* Leif P.S. I have turned complete salad sets for my two nieces (18 Pieces in all) and not a one has warped or gone out of round. Maybe it is the type of oak that is referred to above, but in my experience, if you follow the directions you will not suffer from cracked, out-of-round turned items, chilblains, cracked hands, low libido, etc!*G* good info... thanks, Marge! *g* mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#15
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Leif Thorvaldson wrote:
"Prometheus" wrote in message ... On Tue, 17 May 2005 13:20:16 -0500, "Dr. Deb" wrote: And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish detergent and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish. Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had no problems with any of my pieces splitting. How exactly is this supposed to work? Does the detergent lower the moisture content of the wood somehow? I'm not saying it doesn't work, of course, just wondering why it would. One of the other responses mentioned that the wood may appear milky under the finish without drying it, does the LDD method cause that to occur, or does the soaked wood behave in effectively the same manner as dried wood? I'll definately give it a try, as I've heard of this before. Thanks for filling in the details of the method. SNIP Its manner of action can be only speculated on. Some ascribe mystical, alchemical qualities to it, but a "vast consensus" of turners (errh, well, at least myself and two others!) seem to believe that the soap solution draws out water from the cell walls and replaces it with some substance in the soap. I have never had a finish appear milky from use of the soap solution. It makes the wood cut easier. And it takes any kind of finish with the wood still damp after final turning and sanding. Don't mention that I sent you the samizdat on The Soap Solution as you will receive the same scorn and loathing that I have had to suffer from the reactionary turners. You know the type: the boilers, the bakers, the microwavers, the soakers, the spin driers, the drycleaners, the air driers for ten years, etc. They will cause you to doubt the truth behind The Soap Solution, yea, verily, to cause it to appear un-Constitutional. Heed not the fearmongers! I am available for a limited time only free consultation by email. *G* Leif P.S. I have turned complete salad sets for my two nieces (18 Pieces in all) and not a one has warped or gone out of round. Maybe it is the type of oak that is referred to above, but in my experience, if you follow the directions you will not suffer from cracked, out-of-round turned items, chilblains, cracked hands, low libido, SWMBO wants to know if it will _increase it_ -- or should I stick to other "methods". etc!*G* -- Will Occasional Techno-geek |
#16
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On Mon, 23 May 2005 08:29:27 -0400, WillR
wrote: Leif Thorvaldson wrote: "Prometheus" wrote in message ... On Tue, 17 May 2005 13:20:16 -0500, "Dr. Deb" wrote: And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish detergent and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish. Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had no problems with any of my pieces splitting. How exactly is this supposed to work? Does the detergent lower the moisture content of the wood somehow? I'm not saying it doesn't work, of course, just wondering why it would. One of the other responses mentioned that the wood may appear milky under the finish without drying it, does the LDD method cause that to occur, or does the soaked wood behave in effectively the same manner as dried wood? I'll definately give it a try, as I've heard of this before. Thanks for filling in the details of the method. SNIP Its manner of action can be only speculated on. Some ascribe mystical, alchemical qualities to it, but a "vast consensus" of turners (errh, well, at least myself and two others!) seem to believe that the soap solution draws out water from the cell walls and replaces it with some substance in the soap. I have never had a finish appear milky from use of the soap solution. It makes the wood cut easier. And it takes any kind of finish with the wood still damp after final turning and sanding. Don't mention that I sent you the samizdat on The Soap Solution as you will receive the same scorn and loathing that I have had to suffer from the reactionary turners. You know the type: the boilers, the bakers, the microwavers, the soakers, the spin driers, the drycleaners, the air driers for ten years, etc. They will cause you to doubt the truth behind The Soap Solution, yea, verily, to cause it to appear un-Constitutional. Heed not the fearmongers! I am available for a limited time only free consultation by email. *G* Leif P.S. I have turned complete salad sets for my two nieces (18 Pieces in all) and not a one has warped or gone out of round. Maybe it is the type of oak that is referred to above, but in my experience, if you follow the directions you will not suffer from cracked, out-of-round turned items, chilblains, cracked hands, low libido, SWMBO wants to know if it will _increase it_ -- or should I stick to other "methods". etc!*G* keep taking those lil' pills... where there's a Will, there's a way.. *g* mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#17
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Prometheus wrote:
Hello all, I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as well, or does it need to have a thin wall? Thanks for any advice you've got! Leif has said it all. But then why shouldn't he, he is the High Priest of LDD! :-) Deb |
#18
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I am just going to have to try the LDD method. One question though,
when you take the bowl out of the solution, do you just drip dry it, or rinse it off, or what? robo hippy Dr. Deb wrote: Prometheus wrote: Hello all, I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as well, or does it need to have a thin wall? Thanks for any advice you've got! Leif has said it all. But then why shouldn't he, he is the High Priest of LDD! :-) Deb |
#19
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"robo hippy" wrote in message oups.com... I am just going to have to try the LDD method. One question though, when you take the bowl out of the solution, do you just drip dry it, or rinse it off, or what? robo hippy =====A private email has been sent to you with a copy of The Soap Solution attached. Hopefully, this method will allow the counterrevolutionary turners to keep napping while they wait for their wood to dry.*G* Leif |
#20
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"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message ... =====A private email has been sent to you with a copy of The Soap Solution attached. Hopefully, this method will allow the counterrevolutionary turners to keep napping while they wait for their wood to dry.*G* Leif Hey Leif, Are counterrevolutionary turners the ones who turn with the wood spinning the other direction? Martin |
#21
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"Martin Rost" rostmartin @ hot mail . com wrote in message ... "Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message ... =====A private email has been sent to you with a copy of The Soap Solution attached. Hopefully, this method will allow the counterrevolutionary turners to keep napping while they wait for their wood to dry.*G* Leif Hey Leif, Are counterrevolutionary turners the ones who turn with the wood spinning the other direction? Martin Sorry, Martin, they are more devious than that. By their words shalt thou know them! If you are suspicious of someone, send me a full transcript of their remarks and I will process it for give-away phrases and words and inform you of the findings. As a general rule of thumb, if they use the abbreviation of LDD followed by curse words and reflections on my ancestry you should be very suspicious. Either they know something that my mother never told me, or they are counterrevolutionary rats, . . .errrh, I mean woodturners. *G* Leif |
#22
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"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message ... "robo hippy" wrote in message oups.com... I am just going to have to try the LDD method. One question though, when you take the bowl out of the solution, do you just drip dry it, or rinse it off, or what? robo hippy =====A private email has been sent to you with a copy of The Soap Solution attached. Hopefully, this method will allow the counterrevolutionary turners to keep napping while they wait for their wood to dry.*G* Leif Looks like it's too late to get the stuff cheap from a going-out-of-business sale. http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/t....pl?read=71968 |
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"George" george@least wrote in message ... "Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message ... "robo hippy" wrote in message oups.com... I am just going to have to try the LDD method. One question though, when you take the bowl out of the solution, do you just drip dry it, or rinse it off, or what? robo hippy =====A private email has been sent to you with a copy of The Soap Solution attached. Hopefully, this method will allow the counterrevolutionary turners to keep napping while they wait for their wood to dry.*G* Leif Looks like it's too late to get the stuff cheap from a going-out-of-business sale. http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/t....pl?read=71968 ====The poor fellow! He couldn't figure out how to dispose of used LDD solution. LDD has been biodegradable for many years and has been going down countless drains (even in New Jersey!) for an equal number of years. No wonder the chemist chuckled. Undoubtedly, and based upon scientific surveys of unhappy LDD solution users, it has been found that they: 1) Used the wrong brand of LDD; 2)Used the wrong ratio of LDD to water; 3) did not follow directions regarding using it! It is almost incomprehensible to me that a person would make up 15 gallons of the stuff on a first try. I suspect that he is an agent of influence promulgating anti-LDD propaganda -- one of those counterrevolutionary rats, . . . errh, I mean woodturners. The Cause of LDD marches on and will not be deterred by such baseless claims or anecdotes!*G* Leif |
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in contrast to most other posters, here's my approach:
turn the form to final size while wet - turn the walls thin, so light shines through - with ash, this is around 1/8 to 3/16, maple is a little thinner - put a bright light behind the piece and turn for uniform "glow". Then sand and finish with laquer immediately. never have mildew problems, rarely any checkng even on the foot, which is of course a bit thicker. bill "Prometheus" wrote in message news Hello all, I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as well, or does it need to have a thin wall? Thanks for any advice you've got! |
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On Wed, 18 May 2005 22:22:44 -0700, "william_b_noble"
wrote: in contrast to most other posters, here's my approach: turn the form to final size while wet - turn the walls thin, so light shines through - with ash, this is around 1/8 to 3/16, maple is a little thinner - put a bright light behind the piece and turn for uniform "glow". Then sand and finish with laquer immediately. never have mildew problems, rarely any checkng even on the foot, which is of course a bit thicker. bill Bill... is the bowl then "done", or do you bag/air dry/cast spells/ rack it? mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
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