I often end up with the need to finish spindleturnings after they are
parted off, and sometimes pointed, so it is impossible to use my
regular livecenter.

I have tried to make some accessory to fit my livecenter like a
cup with an internal cone, but I can not seem to make it good enough
to avoid some shakes and vibes.

Can anyone give me some advice as to what is out there, in the
form of readymade cupcenters?

It would need to be fairly heavy duty. I do not want aluminum.

Bjarte

"Bjarte Runderheim" wrote in message
...
I often end up with the need to finish spindleturnings after they are
parted off, and sometimes pointed, so it is impossible to use my
regular livecenter.

I have tried to make some accessory to fit my livecenter like a
cup with an internal cone, but I can not seem to make it good enough
to avoid some shakes and vibes.

Can anyone give me some advice as to what is out there, in the
form of readymade cupcenters?

It would need to be fairly heavy duty. I do not want aluminum.


Not sure what you'd gain from a cup center. Are you already using a chuck
on the other end? That's what I do when I am parting to null at the
tailstock end. That, and a steady would be the best, as I see it. Part to
~ 1/4" and then trim with a knife.

My Nova allows fitting any shape wooden piece at the tail end with a bolt
through it, but I tend to use it in a "male" configuration for holding
center on hollowed goblets and such. I have a cup design for inside-out
turning, but normally I just leave a bit of extra wood when I know I'll have
to part a spindle. They also make a metal cup, but that's used pretty much
the same as my wooden ones..

"Bjarte Runderheim" wrote: I often end up with the need to finish
spindleturnings after they are parted off,(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I have two solutions which I use from time to time. One is to hold the work
in a chuck, and use a steadyrest for the "tailstock" end. Doing that, you
can actually turn any shape you want on the end--a ball, a point,a finial.

I also have a Morse taper on which I have installed a ball bearing. I can
turn a wasteblock of hardwood that presses on the ball bearing, and is
shaped to hold the tailstock end of the work. It works fine, as long as I
take light cuts.

Hi George,
Comforting for N3K owners to see your reference to "My Nova". A long
tailstock drawbolt is a good idea. Thanks and keep 'em coming.

BTW, I've seen showoffs (not me, of course) loosen the tail center on
small spindles and use one hand over the end to hold and the other hand
to finish off the spindle's tip. Easily recognized by their eye patches
and missing teeth.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Hi George,
Comforting for N3K owners to see your reference to "My Nova". A long
tailstock drawbolt is a good idea. Thanks and keep 'em coming.

BTW, I've seen showoffs (not me, of course) loosen the tail center on
small spindles and use one hand over the end to hold and the other hand
to finish off the spindle's tip. Easily recognized by their eye patches
and missing teeth.

Nova live center.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...&FamilyID=5198

The one in Ol' Blue is now in the big guy, since the one that came with him,
and the spur center, BTW, are best described as POSs. Tough to believe the
same company makes the one above.


Did get a pin chuck for the 3000 from Best Wood Tools. He does beautiful
machining. Picture on the owners' group if you'd like to see it. Highly
recommended roughing aid. Keeps me from having to worry about ruining this
gorgeous mug with flying timber.

George, I'd hate to see your blood pressure if Nova's aluminum faceplate
and indexing plate (yeah sure) came with the "big guy". An insult to all
decent POS.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings