Hi,
My new Single Electric Oven (2.35Kw) states it should be connected to
a 13A FCU spur. If it can be connected to a 13A FCU could you just add
a 13A plug to it and plug it into a socket?

Why does the FCU need to be a spurred FCU?

Finally, if I have a single 13A plug socket, could I just run a short
spur from that and place my 13A FCU spur next to that socket?

cheers

"inNeedofHelp" wrote in message
om...
Hi,
My new Single Electric Oven (2.35Kw) states it should be connected to
a 13A FCU spur. If it can be connected to a 13A FCU could you just add
a 13A plug to it and plug it into a socket?

Why does the FCU need to be a spurred FCU?

Finally, if I have a single 13A plug socket, could I just run a short
spur from that and place my 13A FCU spur next to that socket?

cheers

Possibly they don't want you to take the power for the oven off the main
ring circuit.
Usually ovens are so power hugry they get their own spur ( direct from the
consuer unit ). Yours doesn't sound as though it takes much power, about 10A
of current. In theory that kind of load is easily fed from the ring circuit,
but it sounds like they are quoting regulations designed to cover more
powerful oven/hob combinations.

My info is that below 3kW your oven can be supplied from a ring circuit by
an FCU spur, or by means of a 13A plug and socket as you suggest.
Andy.

inNeedofHelp wrote:

My new Single Electric Oven (2.35Kw) states it should be connected to
a 13A FCU spur. If it can be connected to a 13A FCU could you just add
a 13A plug to it and plug it into a socket?

Yes you could, but watch the total loading on the ring, or whatever
other circuit is feeding your kitchen. Also bear in mind that the max.
ambient temperature for 13 A plugs & sockets is supposed to be 30 deg. C
so avoid using plugs in in hot spots such as behind a built-in appliance.

Why does the FCU need to be a spurred FCU?

'Spur' 'spur unit' or 'spur box' are alternative names for an FCU. It
doesn't mean that the FCU can't be connected directly into a ring
circuit - clearly it can be.

Finally, if I have a single 13A plug socket, could I just run a short
spur from that and place my 13A FCU spur next to that socket?

Yes.

--
Andy

In article ,
Andy Wade writes:
inNeedofHelp wrote:

My new Single Electric Oven (2.35Kw) states it should be connected to
a 13A FCU spur. If it can be connected to a 13A FCU could you just add
a 13A plug to it and plug it into a socket?

Yes you could, but watch the total loading on the ring, or whatever
other circuit is feeding your kitchen. Also bear in mind that the max.
ambient temperature for 13 A plugs & sockets is supposed to be 30 deg. C
so avoid using plugs in in hot spots such as behind a built-in appliance.

Also, for such use, go for really good quality plug and socket,
not the cheapest bargin in the shed. You can avoid one slight
possibility for bad contact by choosing an unswitched socket too
for this application.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Andy Wade wrote in message ...
inNeedofHelp wrote:

My new Single Electric Oven (2.35Kw) states it should be connected to
a 13A FCU spur. If it can be connected to a 13A FCU could you just add
a 13A plug to it and plug it into a socket?

Yes you could, but watch the total loading on the ring, or whatever
other circuit is feeding your kitchen. Also bear in mind that the max.
ambient temperature for 13 A plugs & sockets is supposed to be 30 deg. C
so avoid using plugs in in hot spots such as behind a built-in appliance.

Sure, we will have 2 rings supply to supply the kitchen, so loading on
ring is OK. Socket will go in cabinet next to oven as current one is.
Does not get overly hot in there, so again, that will be ok.

Cool, think I will go with plug route, be neater, and easier

Why does the FCU need to be a spurred FCU?

'Spur' 'spur unit' or 'spur box' are alternative names for an FCU. It
doesn't mean that the FCU can't be connected directly into a ring
circuit - clearly it can be.

Finally, if I have a single 13A plug socket, could I just run a short
spur from that and place my 13A FCU spur next to that socket?

Yes.

"inNeedofHelp" wrote in message
m...
Andy Wade wrote in message
...
inNeedofHelp wrote:

My new Single Electric Oven (2.35Kw) states it should be connected to
a 13A FCU spur. If it can be connected to a 13A FCU could you just add
a 13A plug to it and plug it into a socket?

Yes you could, but watch the total loading on the ring, or whatever
other circuit is feeding your kitchen. Also bear in mind that the max.
ambient temperature for 13 A plugs & sockets is supposed to be 30 deg. C
so avoid using plugs in in hot spots such as behind a built-in
appliance.

Sure, we will have 2 rings supply to supply the kitchen, so loading on
ring is OK. Socket will go in cabinet next to oven as current one is.
Does not get overly hot in there, so again, that will be ok.

Cool, think I will go with plug route, be neater, and easier

Why does the FCU need to be a spurred FCU?

'Spur' 'spur unit' or 'spur box' are alternative names for an FCU. It
doesn't mean that the FCU can't be connected directly into a ring
circuit - clearly it can be.

Finally, if I have a single 13A plug socket, could I just run a short
spur from that and place my 13A FCU spur next to that socket?

Yes.

An oven is a fixed appliance and as such should be connected via a switched
fused spur, socket outlets are for portable appliances if it was designed to
be on a 13a plugtop it would have to be supplied with one fitted.

Peter

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 20:50:24 +0000 (UTC), "Peter"
strung together this:

An oven is a fixed appliance and as such should be connected via a switched
fused spur,

No, it can be fitted with a plugtop or wired in via a switched fused
spur.

socket outlets are for portable appliances if it was designed to
be on a 13a plugtop it would have to be supplied with one fitted.

Just because it doesn't come with one doesn't mean there is a problem
with using a plugtop. A gas hob doesn't come with a fitted plug, and
neither does a cooker hood and these draw a few watts each.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

Just because it doesn't come with one doesn't mean there is a problem
with using a plugtop. A gas hob doesn't come with a fitted plug, and
neither does a cooker hood and these draw a few watts each.
--
Thats because they are fixed appliance's and needs to be wired via a FCU the
only exception that comes to mind is a electric clock thats permitted on a
designed for purpose plug connector.

Peter

(Andrew Gabriel) wrote in message ...
In article ,
Andy Wade writes:
inNeedofHelp wrote:

My new Single Electric Oven (2.35Kw) states it should be connected to
a 13A FCU spur. If it can be connected to a 13A FCU could you just add
a 13A plug to it and plug it into a socket?

Yes you could, but watch the total loading on the ring, or whatever
other circuit is feeding your kitchen. Also bear in mind that the max.
ambient temperature for 13 A plugs & sockets is supposed to be 30 deg. C
so avoid using plugs in in hot spots such as behind a built-in appliance.

Also, for such use, go for really good quality plug and socket,
not the cheapest bargin in the shed. You can avoid one slight
possibility for bad contact by choosing an unswitched socket too
for this application.


I was about to post a similar query. Without hijacking the original
post, may I seek to expand it please?

In SWMBO's new kitchen the (old) stand alone cooker (4x hot plates
+grill+oven) (45A on rating plate) will butt up against a cooker
connection outlet with 45A cooker switch above & to side. It must be
capable of being moved sideways and out away from the wall to give
service access to a built in dishwasher on one side.

Result is a quite long cable which has to be folded over & supported
somehow at the rear of the cooker (that's one disadvantage - the
other, heat at the rear of the cooker - has already been mentioned
above).

Am wondering whether an industrial style (30a or 60A) 3 pin socket
might be a better solution. Any opinions please? Or a better
solution?

perhaps if there's safety concerns it could be secured by some sort of
locked cover as area at the back of the cooker will be readily
accessible from the side away from the dishwasher.

On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 17:42:18 +0000 (UTC), "Peter"
strung together this:

Thats because they are fixed appliance's and needs to be wired via a FCU

They don't.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject