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jim_in_sussex
 
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(Andrew Gabriel) wrote in message ...
In article ,
Andy Wade writes:
inNeedofHelp wrote:

My new Single Electric Oven (2.35Kw) states it should be connected to
a 13A FCU spur. If it can be connected to a 13A FCU could you just add
a 13A plug to it and plug it into a socket?


Yes you could, but watch the total loading on the ring, or whatever
other circuit is feeding your kitchen. Also bear in mind that the max.
ambient temperature for 13 A plugs & sockets is supposed to be 30 deg. C
so avoid using plugs in in hot spots such as behind a built-in appliance.


Also, for such use, go for really good quality plug and socket,
not the cheapest bargin in the shed. You can avoid one slight
possibility for bad contact by choosing an unswitched socket too
for this application.



I was about to post a similar query. Without hijacking the original
post, may I seek to expand it please?

In SWMBO's new kitchen the (old) stand alone cooker (4x hot plates
+grill+oven) (45A on rating plate) will butt up against a cooker
connection outlet with 45A cooker switch above & to side. It must be
capable of being moved sideways and out away from the wall to give
service access to a built in dishwasher on one side.

Result is a quite long cable which has to be folded over & supported
somehow at the rear of the cooker (that's one disadvantage - the
other, heat at the rear of the cooker - has already been mentioned
above).

Am wondering whether an industrial style (30a or 60A) 3 pin socket
might be a better solution. Any opinions please? Or a better
solution?

perhaps if there's safety concerns it could be secured by some sort of
locked cover as area at the back of the cooker will be readily
accessible from the side away from the dishwasher.