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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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What's the "dog's" for dealing with black mould.
Does anyone know of a supplier of anti-fungal paint?
The problem: a solid concrete (or other masonry finish) ceiling, the shower steam goes straight up and condenses, with the inevitable result. I'll be adding forced ventilation for the new occupants. However I would like to know what paints are available which are truly anti-fungal? -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html |
#2
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I used this two years ago. No problems since. It is expensive though.
Also, install an extraction fan - the centrifugal type. Not the axial fans, they are crap. Link for paint: http://makeashorterlink.com/?N2A512E6A "Ed Sirett" wrote in message news Does anyone know of a supplier of anti-fungal paint? The problem: a solid concrete (or other masonry finish) ceiling, the shower steam goes straight up and condenses, with the inevitable result. I'll be adding forced ventilation for the new occupants. However I would like to know what paints are available which are truly anti-fungal? -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html |
#3
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Ed Sirett wrote:
Does anyone know of a supplier of anti-fungal paint? The problem: a solid concrete (or other masonry finish) ceiling, the shower steam goes straight up and condenses, with the inevitable result. I'll be adding forced ventilation for the new occupants. However I would like to know what paints are available which are truly anti-fungal? I wonder why people pay premium prices for antifungal paints when they can just add antifungal compounds to whatever paint they wish. The cheapest is crushed aspirin tablets. Copper compounds are antifungal, and a longer lasting choice if something of low solubility is picked. NT |
#4
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#5
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Markus Splenius wrote:
On 8 Feb 2005 15:13:40 -0800, wrote: I wonder why people pay premium prices for antifungal paints when they can just add antifungal compounds to whatever paint they wish. The cheapest is crushed aspirin tablets. Copper compounds are antifungal, and a longer lasting choice if something of low solubility is picked. Copper compounds are blue. My ceiling is white! :-) Brilliant white is mildly blue tinted white rather than pure white, but the amount of copper needed is low enough not to be noticeable. Copper compounds come in blue, reddish, black, etc. What do you do? Just stir in some copper sulphate? I'd use a less water soluble copper compund myself. Last time I did this I used aspirin, but lower solubility is better, lasts much longer. I worked out how many I'd need to get the concentration required to be effective, powdered them, and mixed in. If I were doing it today I'd probably just add copper filings, easier and longer lasting. NT |
#6
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On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 19:19:56 +0000, Ed Sirett
wrote: The problem: a solid concrete (or other masonry finish) ceiling, the shower steam goes straight up and condenses, with the inevitable result. Polystyrene ceiling tiles? -- Peter Parry. http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/ |
#7
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Ed Sirett wrote:
Does anyone know of a supplier of anti-fungal paint? The problem: a solid concrete (or other masonry finish) ceiling, the shower steam goes straight up and condenses, with the inevitable result. I'll be adding forced ventilation for the new occupants. However I would like to know what paints are available which are truly anti-fungal? Look at anti-fungal treatmnts containing quaternary ammonium compounds. They are available (sorry, don't know a brand) as sprays or solutions to kill existing mould growth Malcolm |
#8
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Peter Parry wrote: On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 19:19:56 +0000, Ed Sirett wrote: The problem: a solid concrete (or other masonry finish) ceiling, the shower steam goes straight up and condenses, with the inevitable result. Polystyrene ceiling tiles? -- Peter Parry. http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/ Surely this is the answer - or use a slab of expanded polystryene to insulate the ceiling. I would have thought it far more preferable to eliminate the condensation than to attacked the problem chemically. If nothing else the insualation will last for ever while anytning 'anti-' will deteriorate with time. Having said that - is the aspirin thing true or are you pulling the collective leg ? Rob Rob |
#9
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On Wed, 09 Feb 2005 23:51:08 +0000, Peter Parry wrote:
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 19:19:56 +0000, Ed Sirett wrote: The problem: a solid concrete (or other masonry finish) ceiling, the shower steam goes straight up and condenses, with the inevitable result. Polystyrene ceiling tiles? OK I could afford to loose a cm or two (but not much more) from the room height and use celotex or similar. But it would likely need to be skimmed over (under really?) to look OK. Polystyrene tiles are just too naff even for a middle market 1 bed flat. Could try polystyrene 'lining paper' but that's only a few mm thick and might not work well enough. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html |
#10
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"Ed Sirett" wrote
| Polystyrene tiles are just too naff | even for a middle market 1 bed flat. And I think unacceptable on fire safety grounds. The problem really is not condensation per se, but condensation wetting a surface and providing the conditions for mould to grow. If you can replace the surface with something which sheds condensation, mould will be a lot less likely to grow. Tiles would work, or the tile or marble style plastic laminates used in commercial kitchens or bathrooms. The condensation should simply run off harmlessly, and if some mould does grow then the surface is wipe-clean with bleach. Owain |
#11
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On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 21:47:59 +0000, Ed Sirett
wrote: Could try polystyrene 'lining paper' but that's only a few mm thick and might not work well enough. I've used it on a cold wall in a bathroom and it worked quite well(in that it moved the condensation elsewhere until proper ventilation was sorted out). Even where water does condense on it it seems to evaporate somewhat faster so minimising the opportunity of mould developing. -- Peter Parry. http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/ |
#12
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On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 12:33:18 -0000, "Owain"
wrote: "Ed Sirett" wrote | Polystyrene tiles are just too naff | even for a middle market 1 bed flat. And I think unacceptable on fire safety grounds. I can see no problem with them on a solid concrete bathroom ceiling. By the time they ignited anyone in the flat would long ago have ceased worrying about it. Suspended polystyrene ceilings are a different kettle of fish. -- Peter Parry. http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/ |
#13
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On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 12:34:08 +0000, Peter Parry wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 21:47:59 +0000, Ed Sirett wrote: Could try polystyrene 'lining paper' but that's only a few mm thick and might not work well enough. I've used it on a cold wall in a bathroom and it worked quite well(in that it moved the condensation elsewhere until proper ventilation was sorted out). Even where water does condense on it it seems to evaporate somewhat faster so minimising the opportunity of mould developing. I think I'll basically clean off the existing with bleach. Add an extractor fan. Which will mean a Part-P building notice wink. And paint with an anti-mould paint. The tenants before the last lot did not have a problem so the users also have a big part to play in the matters. Flat is in a block with communal (unvented) HW the shower is truly superb off a 'contract' grade manual mixer. This probably encourages luxuriating under the warm fire hose... -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html |
#14
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"Ed Sirett" wrote
| Add an extractor fan. Which will mean a Part-P building notice wink. nod But you've got a receipt for an extractor fan you bought last year - proof you started the job before 31st Dec. Owain |
#16
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On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 13:32:45 +0000, Owain wrote:
"Ed Sirett" wrote | Add an extractor fan. Which will mean a Part-P building notice wink. nod But you've got a receipt for an extractor fan you bought last year - proof you started the job before 31st Dec. I always keep 4" bathroom timer fans in stock - it'll be old stock. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html |
#17
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Ed Sirett wrote:
Does anyone know of a supplier of anti-fungal paint? The problem: a solid concrete (or other masonry finish) ceiling, the shower steam goes straight up and condenses, with the inevitable result. I'll be adding forced ventilation for the new occupants. However I would like to know what paints are available which are truly anti-fungal? IME a 'fungicidal wash' such as the Dulux one here http://www.duluxtrade.co.uk/webapp/w...ctType=dulu x makes a very effective pre-treatment. Provided the new ventilation is effective there's surely no reason not to follow up with ordinary emulsion - or an alkyd-based eggshell finish if you're still worried about damp. -- Andy |
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