I'm getting ready to tackle the last big job in my kitchen renovations -
fitting laminate worktops.
I'm hiring a jig and router for next weekend, and I'm fairly confident I can
make a good job of it. I do still have a couple of questions that I'm sure
you guys can help with :-)

1) Is it best to do the cuts in one go, or make several passes, getting
deeper each time?

2) I'm a bit concerned about the laminate chipping. I've read that scoring
it first helps, and also clamping some wood to the surface can stop it, but
what about the bullnosed front edge?

3) Would a circular saw work for the straight cuts? I imagine it would be
quicker, but would I need a special blade (especially to avoid chipping the
laminate?)

Thanks for any advice you may be able to give. I've tackled everything in
the house myself so far (with lots of helpful advice from here), but I would
probably have left this one to a professional. Unfortunately no-one seemed
to be interested in doing the work (not unless they also supplied their own
low quality worktops). In any case, as my mother-in-law helpfully pointed
out, I could mess up quite a few cuts before it would have been cheaper to
get someone in!

Bob

On Mon, 24 May 2004 10:58:27 +0100, "Bob"
wrote:

I'm getting ready to tackle the last big job in my kitchen renovations -
fitting laminate worktops.
I'm hiring a jig and router for next weekend, and I'm fairly confident I can
make a good job of it. I do still have a couple of questions that I'm sure
you guys can help with :-)

1) Is it best to do the cuts in one go, or make several passes, getting
deeper each time?

You need to do several passes. I have a fairly powerful 12.7mm
router (DeWalt DW625) and did my passes at about 8mm increments.
The trick is to make sure that the cutter is sharp, keep the router
moving but don't force it so that it slows noticably.

You must make sure the the work is properly supported. WHat I did
was to lay strips of timber on my bench to act as spacers and then I
laid the worktop on that. This prevents any tendency for it to move
and crack away as you go through.

Also, do make sure that the jig is very firmly clamped to the worktop.


2) I'm a bit concerned about the laminate chipping. I've read that scoring
it first helps, and also clamping some wood to the surface can stop it, but
what about the bullnosed front edge?

This won't happen with a router if you follow the jig instructions.
Cut from the bullnose front towards the back.



3) Would a circular saw work for the straight cuts? I imagine it would be
quicker, but would I need a special blade (especially to avoid chipping the
laminate?)

I use a router for both. You are much less likely to chip the
laminate than with a saw.



Thanks for any advice you may be able to give. I've tackled everything in
the house myself so far (with lots of helpful advice from here), but I would
probably have left this one to a professional. Unfortunately no-one seemed
to be interested in doing the work (not unless they also supplied their own
low quality worktops). In any case, as my mother-in-law helpfully pointed
out, I could mess up quite a few cuts before it would have been cheaper to
get someone in!

If you have enough worktop, try a practice cut near one end.





Bob


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 May 2004 10:58:27 +0100, "Bob"
wrote:


snipped useful tips



Thanks for any advice you may be able to give. I've tackled everything
in
the house myself so far (with lots of helpful advice from here), but I
would
probably have left this one to a professional. Unfortunately no-one
seemed
to be interested in doing the work (not unless they also supplied their
own
low quality worktops). In any case, as my mother-in-law helpfully
pointed
out, I could mess up quite a few cuts before it would have been cheaper
to
get someone in!

If you have enough worktop, try a practice cut near one end.



Thanks for the tips. The pricing structure of the worktops meant that an
additonal £5 resulted in an extra 2m of worktop. I should finish up with a
few small offcuts and one length of around 10ft, so I guess I have enough
for a couple of practice runs. Not too many, though - I could use that
piece in the shed :-)

Bob

On Mon, 24 May 2004 10:58:27 +0100, "Bob" strung
together this:

1) Is it best to do the cuts in one go, or make several passes, getting
deeper each time?

Yep, that's how you're meant to use a router in all circumstances, cut about
10mm deep on each pass. One tip is when you've got the jig setup you'll notice
there is a couple of mm play in the guide. When you're cutting pull the router
away from the finished side of the cut, then when you've gone all the way
through make a final full depth pass pushing towards the finished edge to clean
up any cut lines or blade marks.

2) I'm a bit concerned about the laminate chipping. I've read that scoring
it first helps, and also clamping some wood to the surface can stop it, but
what about the bullnosed front edge?

You'll be ok with the router and guide, just go gently. The same applies with
the circular saw, just easily guide it in and it'll be fine.

3) Would a circular saw work for the straight cuts? I imagine it would be
quicker, but would I need a special blade (especially to avoid chipping the
laminate?)

Yep, that's what I usually use for straight cuts on worktops, use a fine tooth
blade. It also helps to clamp a rigid straight edge onto the back of the worktop
so that you get a nice straight cut.

Unfortunately no-one seemed
to be interested in doing the work (not unless they also supplied their own
low quality worktops).

Cowboys, I won't fit thin worktops unless the customer supplies them, I'm too
scared of them bending and snapping in the van!

In any case, as my mother-in-law helpfully pointed
out, I could mess up quite a few cuts before it would have been cheaper to
get someone in!

That's the spirit!
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

Make use of masking tape on both sides of the worktop, that should
minimise flaking of the laminate and you won't have to apply pencil
marks on your worktop. When we recently renovated our kitchen (still
ongoing btw), we actually measured a few cms extra, and after cutting
the worktop with a jigsaw, we sanded the edge to the size required.
The sanding provided by far the best solution - no flaking, and just a
very smooth surface to work with.

Simulet.

"simulet" wrote in message
om...
Make use of masking tape on both sides of the worktop, that should
minimise flaking of the laminate and you won't have to apply pencil
marks on your worktop. When we recently renovated our kitchen (still
ongoing btw), we actually measured a few cms extra, and after cutting
the worktop with a jigsaw, we sanded the edge to the size required.
The sanding provided by far the best solution - no flaking, and just a
very smooth surface to work with.

Simulet.

I don't think I'd have the patience for sanding - I have 10 cut ends (6
visible) and 2 mitred corners to do!

I'll see how the test cuts go before trying all the anti-chip tips - they
are good quality worktops (at least I hope they are - Axiom), so the
laminate should be well bonded. I should probably buy a new cutter though -
then I'll know its sharp.

Bob

On Mon, 24 May 2004 16:33:56 +0100, "Bob"
wrote:


"simulet" wrote in message
. com...
Make use of masking tape on both sides of the worktop, that should
minimise flaking of the laminate and you won't have to apply pencil
marks on your worktop. When we recently renovated our kitchen (still
ongoing btw), we actually measured a few cms extra, and after cutting
the worktop with a jigsaw, we sanded the edge to the size required.
The sanding provided by far the best solution - no flaking, and just a
very smooth surface to work with.

Simulet.

I don't think I'd have the patience for sanding - I have 10 cut ends (6
visible) and 2 mitred corners to do!

I'll see how the test cuts go before trying all the anti-chip tips - they
are good quality worktops (at least I hope they are - Axiom), so the
laminate should be well bonded. I should probably buy a new cutter though -
then I'll know its sharp.

Bob


You should find that if you use a good quality sharp cutter and are
not agressive on depth or rate of cut, that there will be no chipping.

Remember that a small version of a router is sold as a laminate
trimmer and that you can get laminate trimming bits for standard
routers.

I've had good success with CMT and Freud TCT cutters, although Trend
are OK as well. It is worth spending the extra if you want a good
job. This is not one for the £3 Chinese jobs.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 May 2004 16:33:56 +0100, "Bob"
wrote:


"simulet" wrote in message
. com...
Make use of masking tape on both sides of the worktop, that should
minimise flaking of the laminate and you won't have to apply pencil
marks on your worktop. When we recently renovated our kitchen (still
ongoing btw), we actually measured a few cms extra, and after cutting
the worktop with a jigsaw, we sanded the edge to the size required.
The sanding provided by far the best solution - no flaking, and just a
very smooth surface to work with.

Simulet.

I don't think I'd have the patience for sanding - I have 10 cut ends (6
visible) and 2 mitred corners to do!

I'll see how the test cuts go before trying all the anti-chip tips - they
are good quality worktops (at least I hope they are - Axiom), so the
laminate should be well bonded. I should probably buy a new cutter
though -
then I'll know its sharp.

Bob


You should find that if you use a good quality sharp cutter and are
not agressive on depth or rate of cut, that there will be no chipping.

Remember that a small version of a router is sold as a laminate
trimmer and that you can get laminate trimming bits for standard
routers.

I've had good success with CMT and Freud TCT cutters, although Trend
are OK as well. It is worth spending the extra if you want a good
job. This is not one for the £3 Chinese jobs.



Quite. And in any case, a decent cutter is still relatively cheap when
compared to the cost of the materials being cut.
I'm intrigued by the "laminate trimmer" - is that for cleaning up the edging
strips? I had planned to cut roughly to shape and then file the last bit
down, but if there is a proper tool...

Bob

"Bob" wrote in message
...

"simulet" wrote in message
om...
Make use of masking tape on both sides of the worktop, that should
minimise flaking of the laminate and you won't have to apply pencil
marks on your worktop. When we recently renovated our kitchen (still
ongoing btw), we actually measured a few cms extra, and after cutting
the worktop with a jigsaw, we sanded the edge to the size required.
The sanding provided by far the best solution - no flaking, and just a
very smooth surface to work with.

Simulet.

I don't think I'd have the patience for sanding - I have 10 cut ends (6
visible) and 2 mitred corners to do!

I'll see how the test cuts go before trying all the anti-chip tips - they
are good quality worktops (at least I hope they are - Axiom), so the
laminate should be well bonded. I should probably buy a new cutter
though -
then I'll know its sharp.

Bob



You will probably need to buy 3 cutters for that job for the amount of cuts
you are doing. Worktops will blunt them very quickly.

Steve Dawson

"Bob" wrote in message
...
I'm getting ready to tackle the last big job in my kitchen renovations -
fitting laminate worktops.
I'm hiring a jig and router for next weekend, and I'm fairly confident I
can
make a good job of it. I do still have a couple of questions that I'm
sure
you guys can help with :-)

I had the same worries but on the advice here bought a very good jigsaw
(Bosch) with down-cutting blades. Change these the moment the work seems
to be getting difficult. With the first sink the (crap B&Q) blades were
blunting in only a couple of feet but some others from a woodworking place
lasted a good two metres before I decided to replace them. They could have
been used longer I'm sure but blades are cheap - worktops aren't.

"G&M" wrote in message
...

"Bob" wrote in message
...
I'm getting ready to tackle the last big job in my kitchen renovations -
fitting laminate worktops.
I'm hiring a jig and router for next weekend, and I'm fairly confident I
can
make a good job of it. I do still have a couple of questions that I'm
sure
you guys can help with :-)

I had the same worries but on the advice here bought a very good jigsaw
(Bosch) with down-cutting blades. Change these the moment the work seems
to be getting difficult. With the first sink the (crap B&Q) blades were
blunting in only a couple of feet but some others from a woodworking place
lasted a good two metres before I decided to replace them. They could
have
been used longer I'm sure but blades are cheap - worktops aren't.


Thanks, but I made a concious decision to steer clear of using a jigsaw. I
know quite a few people recommend it, but I usually find it impossible to
get a perpendicular cut on thick items - the blade always seems to wander
off on its own path on the underside.

The router with a jig to guide it sounds much more likely to work

Bob

"Bob" wrote in message
...

"G&M" wrote in message
...

"Bob" wrote in message
...
I'm getting ready to tackle the last big job in my kitchen
renovations -
fitting laminate worktops.
I'm hiring a jig and router for next weekend, and I'm fairly confident
I
can
make a good job of it. I do still have a couple of questions that I'm
sure
you guys can help with :-)

I had the same worries but on the advice here bought a very good jigsaw
(Bosch) with down-cutting blades. Change these the moment the work
seems
to be getting difficult. With the first sink the (crap B&Q) blades were
blunting in only a couple of feet but some others from a woodworking
place
lasted a good two metres before I decided to replace them. They could
have
been used longer I'm sure but blades are cheap - worktops aren't.


Thanks, but I made a concious decision to steer clear of using a jigsaw.
I
know quite a few people recommend it, but I usually find it impossible to
get a perpendicular cut on thick items - the blade always seems to wander
off on its own path on the underside.

The router with a jig to guide it sounds much more likely to work

Bob


I used a jigsaw with downward cutting blades. Because they cut on the push
stroke, they are made extra thick, and don't seem to bend like ordinary
blades.

Bob

I usually find it impossible to
get a perpendicular cut on thick items - the blade always seems to wander
off on its own path on the underside.


The secret is to steer by twisting the saw along the axis of the blade, and
resist any temptation to apply sideways forces (like you would to steer a panel
saw).

(To be a bit technical, pushing sideways creates a bending moment on the blade
between the top of the surface and the saw and this causes the blade to, well,
bend).

"OldScrawn" wrote in message
...
I usually find it impossible to
get a perpendicular cut on thick items - the blade always seems to
wander
off on its own path on the underside.


The secret is to steer by twisting the saw along the axis of the blade,
and
resist any temptation to apply sideways forces (like you would to steer a
panel
saw).

And to get a professional jigsaw. I never realised there was so much
difference until advised to do so here.