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Old September 29th 03, 12:29 PM
John Greenwood
 
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Default Worktop to wall (sealing)

Hi,

The walls in my kitchen are far from square and after fitting my worktop
there are gaps between the worktop and the wall of differing sizes at
various intervals along the 3m length. I didn't have the patience or skill
to plane the worktop to fit the wall.

I don't know the correct way to seal a worktop to the wall but I was going
to seal it to the wall with transparent silicone before tiling. After tiling
should I then run a bead of silicone along the tile/worktop edge or will the
grout be sufficient considering I have already sealed the worktop behind the
tiles.

But now that I have large gaps how do I seal the worktop to the wall or
should I forget this and just tile, bringing the tiles out from the wall
with large lumps of grout to cover the gaps.

Or should I fill the gaps with something and then seal with silicone and
then tile. If so what can I fill the gaps with so the silicone does not just
disappear down the back?

BTW, the exposed chipboard on the worktop edges have been sealed with PVA.

I don't want a rotten worktop in 2 years!

Thanks,

John



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Old September 29th 03, 12:56 PM
John Rumm
 
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Default Worktop to wall (sealing)

John Greenwood wrote:

I don't know the correct way to seal a worktop to the wall but I was going
to seal it to the wall with transparent silicone before tiling. After tiling
should I then run a bead of silicone along the tile/worktop edge or will the
grout be sufficient considering I have already sealed the worktop behind the
tiles.


Depends a bit on just how big the gaps are!

Normally you could tile and then run a bead of silicone sealant along
the tile / worktop joint. If your gaps are so big as to be bigger than
the thickness of a the tiles (i.e. you wouls still have a vertical gap
at this point) then you have a bit more of a problem.

Perhaps one of the worktop sealing strips would do the trick. Fix in
place as directed and then ensure that is well sealed in with silicone
top and bottom.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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Old September 29th 03, 01:13 PM
The Natural Philosopher
 
Posts: n/a
Default Worktop to wall (sealing)

John Greenwood wrote:

Hi,

The walls in my kitchen are far from square and after fitting my worktop
there are gaps between the worktop and the wall of differing sizes at
various intervals along the 3m length. I didn't have the patience or skill
to plane the worktop to fit the wall.

I don't know the correct way to seal a worktop to the wall but I was going
to seal it to the wall with transparent silicone before tiling. After tiling
should I then run a bead of silicone along the tile/worktop edge or will the
grout be sufficient considering I have already sealed the worktop behind the
tiles.

But now that I have large gaps how do I seal the worktop to the wall or
should I forget this and just tile, bringing the tiles out from the wall
with large lumps of grout to cover the gaps.

Or should I fill the gaps with something and then seal with silicone and
then tile. If so what can I fill the gaps with so the silicone does not just
disappear down the back?

BTW, the exposed chipboard on the worktop edges have been sealed with PVA.

I don't want a rotten worktop in 2 years!



Don't panic. We all have the same problems.

If you are tiling, then you have the perfect finish to solve gap problems.
If you are tliling up to cupboards, its even greater happiness, because
you can just skling some MDF between the cupboards and the worktop, and
tile over the now perfectly flat surface.

Experience of trying to get a suite of vertical tiles flat on an uneven
wal suggests this is a better option.

Somehw you have to bodge out the gaps to get a smooth tiling sufarce.
You camn skim plaster, or use board with various spacings of battens, or
indeed shape the rear of the board itself to fit the wall.

In my case, the presence of a nice gap behind the MDF akllowed me to run
cables where there were none previously, and hide a nasty piece of
trunking...
In fact it looks to neat, I haven't tiled it yet.

If you have almost no movement between worktop and tiles, no need for
silicone either - Just use grout. I am tending to use silicone first to
seal, then tile over, and make grout the final fine finish.






Thanks,

John





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Old September 29th 03, 01:25 PM
Simon
 
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Default Worktop to wall (sealing)


"John Greenwood" wrote in message
.. .
Hi,

The walls in my kitchen are far from square and after fitting my worktop
there are gaps between the worktop and the wall of differing sizes at
various intervals along the 3m length. I didn't have the patience or skill
to plane the worktop to fit the wall.


A relatively simple task of scribing, place the wortop in position so that
it's front edge is equal distance from the carcasses ..... calculate what
overhang you require and subtract that from the current distance, then
either using a block of wood cut to size and a pencil, or a pair of compass
set to the right distance, you scribe along the back edge


I don't know the correct way to seal a worktop to the wall but I was going
to seal it to the wall with transparent silicone before tiling. After

tiling
should I then run a bead of silicone along the tile/worktop edge or will

the
grout be sufficient considering I have already sealed the worktop behind

the
tiles.


the second sealant will stop the tiles and worktop seperating and looking
ugly with later movement


But now that I have large gaps how do I seal the worktop to the wall or
should I forget this and just tile, bringing the tiles out from the wall
with large lumps of grout to cover the gaps.


You haven't said how large .. you might, now, have to either resort to dry
lining that section if the gap is too big, or building it out with plaster.
Don't try and build it out with adhesive, it won't work.


Or should I fill the gaps with something and then seal with silicone and
then tile. If so what can I fill the gaps with so the silicone does not

just
disappear down the back?


sounds like a BIG gap ...... maybe you should have taken it slower and asked
these questions BEFORE fitting the worktop


BTW, the exposed chipboard on the worktop edges have been sealed with PVA.


that's good


I don't want a rotten worktop in 2 years!

Thanks,

John




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Old September 29th 03, 01:29 PM
Simon
 
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Default Worktop to wall (sealing)


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
If you are tiling, then you have the perfect finish to solve gap problems.
If you are tliling up to cupboards, its even greater happiness, because
you can just skling some MDF between the cupboards and the worktop, and
tile over the now perfectly flat surface.


I hope you sealed the MDF before tiling NP ;-P




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Old September 29th 03, 02:08 PM
The Natural Philosopher
 
Posts: n/a
Default Worktop to wall (sealing)

Simon wrote:

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

If you are tiling, then you have the perfect finish to solve gap problems.
If you are tliling up to cupboards, its even greater happiness, because
you can just skling some MDF between the cupboards and the worktop, and
tile over the now perfectly flat surface.


I hope you sealed the MDF before tiling NP ;-P



Nah. I don't spray my tiles with steam and high pressure hoses.

I have extractor fans and insulated walls and central heating.







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Old September 29th 03, 02:19 PM
robgraham
 
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Default Worktop to wall (sealing)

But now that I have large gaps how do I seal the worktop to the wall or
should I forget this and just tile, bringing the tiles out from the wall
with large lumps of grout to cover the gaps.


The best way is to plaster the wall to fit the worktop. It doesn't matter if
you are no good at plastering - you'll be tiling over it. Get some plaster,
how much depends on the size of the gaps, and having distressed the wall to
provide a key, put it on level with the back of the worktop, tapering the
plaster up the wall. One coat should do it, and when it's gone off a bit
(say 1 hour) level it at much as possible.

Rob Graham


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Old September 29th 03, 02:38 PM
Simon
 
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Default Worktop to wall (sealing)


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Nah. I don't spray my tiles with steam and high pressure hoses.

I have extractor fans and insulated walls and central heating.


That wasn't it ..... MDF is like a sponge and will suck the moisture out of
the adhesive before a full cure is reached and won't adhere too well.


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Old September 29th 03, 05:57 PM
The Natural Philosopher
 
Posts: n/a
Default Worktop to wall (sealing)

robgraham wrote:

But now that I have large gaps how do I seal the worktop to the wall or
should I forget this and just tile, bringing the tiles out from the wall
with large lumps of grout to cover the gaps.


The best way is to plaster the wall to fit the worktop. It doesn't matter if
you are no good at plastering - you'll be tiling over it. Get some plaster,
how much depends on the size of the gaps, and having distressed the wall to
provide a key, put it on level with the back of the worktop, tapering the
plaster up the wall. One coat should do it, and when it's gone off a bit
(say 1 hour) level it at much as possible.

Rob Graham




If you MUST do this then het some pattens and batten out teh wall to
level with vertical strips packed oiut with scrap to make a guide for
plastering.

IME trying to get plastering level is hard for professionlas, let alone
us D-I-Yers.


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Old September 29th 03, 05:57 PM
The Natural Philosopher
 
Posts: n/a
Default Worktop to wall (sealing)

Simon wrote:

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

Nah. I don't spray my tiles with steam and high pressure hoses.

I have extractor fans and insulated walls and central heating.


That wasn't it ..... MDF is like a sponge and will suck the moisture out of
the adhesive before a full cure is reached and won't adhere too well.


? Always worked for me?

Coat of PVA should fix anyway.








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