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#1
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Combi in the loft
Okay, I've done a bit more research and it seems the Heat bank option has
leapt up to a ton shy of 2K so the combi is definitely still a contender. Still looking at the actual make model options but the Worcester Bosch 40kW HE Plus Condensing Combi is a strong possibility. Now I still want to stick this stuff in the loft. A good location for me is attached to the party wall. Are these upto supporting 50Kg? As far as the access requirements go at present you can pop your head through the loft and it would be right in front of you, since the loft is low head room (4ft max at apex) it would be more convenient for service bod to tackle it from waste at hatch height. So hopefully just a loft ladder will do. Other boiler options after top reliabilty/quality are satisfied may hinge on the program options. Since it will be in the loft some sort of remote option for the programmer would be best. I take it this is common. Though alot seem geared to kitchen installation, 800 high, nice finish, inbuilt digital displays - all of which are unnecessary for my loft. Suppose best place for fault diagnostic display is on boiler. Other than that I want max flow/heat 16 l/min @35°C rise to beat! Can I do the whole fitting or do I need a Corgi chap for final connection. How is the guarantee on the boiler affected by this? Will I EVER find a plumber willing to do JUST the hook up (twiddle, fiddle, poke, 'that's okay mate') at a reasonable rate? Thoughts? Everyone it seems loves a boiler thread -- Mike W |
#2
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On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 11:39:25 GMT, "VisionSet"
wrote: Okay, I've done a bit more research and it seems the Heat bank option has leapt up to a ton shy of 2K so the combi is definitely still a contender. Still looking at the actual make model options but the Worcester Bosch 40kW HE Plus Condensing Combi is a strong possibility. Now I still want to stick this stuff in the loft. A good location for me is attached to the party wall. Are these upto supporting 50Kg? As long it's a structural , load bearing wall in good condition, that should be OK. As far as the access requirements go at present you can pop your head through the loft and it would be right in front of you, since the loft is low head room (4ft max at apex) it would be more convenient for service bod to tackle it from waste at hatch height. So hopefully just a loft ladder will do. You have to board and light the loft and put in a guard rail, but the loft ladder is OK. Other boiler options after top reliabilty/quality are satisfied may hinge on the program options. Since it will be in the loft some sort of remote option for the programmer would be best. I take it this is common. Though alot seem geared to kitchen installation, 800 high, nice finish, inbuilt digital displays - all of which are unnecessary for my loft. Suppose best place for fault diagnostic display is on boiler. Other than that I want max flow/heat 16 l/min @35°C rise to beat! Well it's pretty simple. 40 kW gives 16 lpm at dT=35 degrees. If you want more then you will need a larger boiler. There are a few 46kW models around that will give you around 18lpm but they cost rather more - e,g, MAN Micromat 46kW combi. Can I do the whole fitting or do I need a Corgi chap for final connection. How is the guarantee on the boiler affected by this? Will I EVER find a plumber willing to do JUST the hook up (twiddle, fiddle, poke, 'that's okay mate') at a reasonable rate? This is your choice. Legally (according to Gas Safety Installation and Use Regulations 1998), you can DIY this if you are "competent". This is by exception, in the sense that there is a specific requirement (via the HSE acting as policeman) if you are installing professionally to be a member of CORGI. The legislation does not define competent with respect to DIY and doesn't positively mention DIY. CORGI membership certainly does require training but of course this is no absolute guarantee of a good job. The HSE is certainly aware that DIY gas fitting goes on and periodically there have been discussions about trying to stop it, but there is no justification for doing so from the rate of problems occuring from it, and they admit that. Plus it would be hard to enforce. There is now a requirement with respect to the energy saving aspects of the Building Regulations Part L1. If you use a CORGI fitter to do the work, then he can self certify it. Otherwise you have to apply for a Building Notice at the local authority - cost around £100 I believe. It's a difficult proposition to ask a CORGI fitter to come along and sprinkle holy water on your work for two reasons. - It is not that interesting business-wise if they haven't supplied and fitted. - They are taking responsibility for your work with respect to the gas supply and the flue. Once you have fitted them, it may be difficult to see those and many would not touch it under those circumstances - Most have plenty of work, so have no real need to do this for you From a competence perspective, have a look through Ed Sirett's FAQ. Ed is a CORGI fitter (as well as being a thoroughly nice guy), and his comments are valuable. The main ones are do you have a good, repeatable result with soldering fittings together and do you understand all the issues involved before you start? Thoughts? Everyone it seems loves a boiler thread ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#3
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... As long it's a structural , load bearing wall in good condition, that should be OK. Well it is a party loft wall, I suspect it is only there as a boundary, I doubt it is load bearing, but it is brick. and it is supported by the whole brick party partition. You have to board the whole loft? and even if it would never be used by trades person? and light the loft and put in a guard rail, but the loft ladder is OK. lighting no problem. What is a guard rail? Other than that I want max flow/heat 16 l/min @35°C rise to beat! Well it's pretty simple. yes for sure - Most have plenty of work, so have no real need to do this for you Quite! From a competence perspective, have a look through Ed Sirett's FAQ. Ed is a CORGI fitter (as well as being a thoroughly nice guy), and his comments are valuable. will do. The main ones are do you have a good, repeatable result with soldering fittings together and do you understand all the issues involved before you start? Yes, I have no qualms about my ability. It was just the guarantee aspect, am I likely to violate the boiler manufacturers requirements, I suspected they required a Corgi fitter. I know... I shall phone WB etc. Cheers Andy -- Mike W |
#4
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"VisionSet" wrote in message ... "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... As long it's a structural , load bearing wall in good condition, that should be OK. Well it is a party loft wall, I suspect it is only there as a boundary, I doubt it is load bearing, but it is brick. and it is supported by the whole brick party partition. You have to board the whole loft? and even if it would never be used by trades person? Not the whole, loft adequately around the hatch, to and around the boiler. A light over the boiler and hatch and a rail around the hatch so no one will fall down it. This may be wood screwed to the rafters to make the rail. and light the loft and put in a guard rail, but the loft ladder is OK. lighting no problem. What is a guard rail? See above. Other than that I want max flow/heat 16 l/min @35°C rise to beat! Well it's pretty simple. yes for sure - Most have plenty of work, so have no real need to do this for you Quite! From a competence perspective, have a look through Ed Sirett's FAQ. Ed is a CORGI fitter (as well as being a thoroughly nice guy), and his comments are valuable. will do. The main ones are do you have a good, repeatable result with soldering fittings together and do you understand all the issues involved before you start? Use Powerflux and flush properly after with Superfloc. Yes, I have no qualms about my ability. It was just the guarantee aspect, am I likely to violate the boiler manufacturers requirements, I suspected they required a Corgi fitter. I know... I shall phone WB etc. The law say you must be "competent". CORGI registration is only for when you make money out of fitting gas equipment. It is to stop the cowboys. |
#5
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In article ,
Andy Hall writes: On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 11:39:25 GMT, "VisionSet" wrote: Okay, I've done a bit more research and it seems the Heat bank option has leapt up to a ton shy of 2K so the combi is definitely still a contender. Still looking at the actual make model options but the Worcester Bosch 40kW HE Plus Condensing Combi is a strong possibility. Now I still want to stick this stuff in the loft. A good location for me is attached to the party wall. Are these upto supporting 50Kg? As long it's a structural , load bearing wall in good condition, that should be OK. The part in the loft usually isn't though. Gable-end walls are notoriously weak, and can sometimes be blown out with a strong wind, so be careful. They don't support anything and have no weight on them (above any purlins). I certainly wouldn't mount a boiler anywhere near the top of such a wall. -- Andrew Gabriel |
#6
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"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ... In article , Andy Hall writes: On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 11:39:25 GMT, "VisionSet" wrote: Okay, I've done a bit more research and it seems the Heat bank option has leapt up to a ton shy of 2K so the combi is definitely still a contender. Still looking at the actual make model options but the Worcester Bosch 40kW HE Plus Condensing Combi is a strong possibility. Now I still want to stick this stuff in the loft. A good location for me is attached to the party wall. Are these upto supporting 50Kg? As long it's a structural , load bearing wall in good condition, that should be OK. The part in the loft usually isn't though. Gable-end walls are notoriously weak, and can sometimes be blown out with a strong wind, so be careful. They don't support anything and have no weight on them (above any purlins). I certainly wouldn't mount a boiler anywhere near the top of such a wall. mmm, this is what I feared. There are purlins and I suspect I can get it central to these. The house is well built 1930, I'll have a good look at it, get my uncle architect to take a look. Don't know what to do otherwise, substantially repoint it, though it doesn't really look like it needs it. -- Mike W |
#7
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"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ... In article , Andy Hall writes: On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 11:39:25 GMT, "VisionSet" wrote: Okay, I've done a bit more research and it seems the Heat bank option has leapt up to a ton shy of 2K so the combi is definitely still a contender. Still looking at the actual make model options but the Worcester Bosch 40kW HE Plus Condensing Combi is a strong possibility. Now I still want to stick this stuff in the loft. A good location for me is attached to the party wall. Are these upto supporting 50Kg? As long it's a structural , load bearing wall in good condition, that should be OK. The part in the loft usually isn't though. Gable-end walls are notoriously weak, What are you on about? they have the same foundations as the other walls. I have mounted boilers on gables and never had any problems. Boilers are not that heavy to worry a gable end. and can sometimes be blown out with a strong wind, so be careful. They don't support anything and have no weight on them (above any purlins). I certainly wouldn't mount a boiler anywhere near the top of such a wall. -- Andrew Gabriel |
#8
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On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 14:59:09 +0100, "IMM" wrote:
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ... In article , Andy Hall writes: On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 11:39:25 GMT, "VisionSet" wrote: Okay, I've done a bit more research and it seems the Heat bank option has leapt up to a ton shy of 2K so the combi is definitely still a contender. Still looking at the actual make model options but the Worcester Bosch 40kW HE Plus Condensing Combi is a strong possibility. Now I still want to stick this stuff in the loft. A good location for me is attached to the party wall. Are these upto supporting 50Kg? As long it's a structural , load bearing wall in good condition, that should be OK. The part in the loft usually isn't though. Gable-end walls are notoriously weak, What are you on about? they have the same foundations as the other walls. I have mounted boilers on gables and never had any problems. Boilers are not that heavy to worry a gable end. 50kg mounted high up can create a substantial load....... ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#9
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 14:59:09 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ... In article , Andy Hall writes: On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 11:39:25 GMT, "VisionSet" wrote: Okay, I've done a bit more research and it seems the Heat bank option has leapt up to a ton shy of 2K so the combi is definitely still a contender. Still looking at the actual make model options but the Worcester Bosch 40kW HE Plus Condensing Combi is a strong possibility. Now I still want to stick this stuff in the loft. A good location for me is attached to the party wall. Are these upto supporting 50Kg? As long it's a structural , load bearing wall in good condition, that should be OK. The part in the loft usually isn't though. Gable-end walls are notoriously weak, What are you on about? they have the same foundations as the other walls. I have mounted boilers on gables and never had any problems. Boilers are not that heavy to worry a gable end. 50kg mounted high up can create a substantial load....... On a wall like a gable end? Which has racking strength from the roof timbers too? Please. |
#10
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On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 15:46:49 +0100, "IMM" wrote:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 14:59:09 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message The part in the loft usually isn't though. Gable-end walls are notoriously weak, What are you on about? they have the same foundations as the other walls. I have mounted boilers on gables and never had any problems. Boilers are not that heavy to worry a gable end. 50kg mounted high up can create a substantial load....... On a wall like a gable end? Which has racking strength from the roof timbers too? Please. That depends on the timber structure and which way the members go. ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#11
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 15:46:49 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 14:59:09 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message The part in the loft usually isn't though. Gable-end walls are notoriously weak, What are you on about? they have the same foundations as the other walls. I have mounted boilers on gables and never had any problems. Boilers are not that heavy to worry a gable end. 50kg mounted high up can create a substantial load....... On a wall like a gable end? Which has racking strength from the roof timbers too? Please. That depends on the timber structure and which way the members go. You don't know anything about construction. |
#12
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On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 16:17:41 +0100, "IMM" wrote:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 15:46:49 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 14:59:09 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message The part in the loft usually isn't though. Gable-end walls are notoriously weak, What are you on about? they have the same foundations as the other walls. I have mounted boilers on gables and never had any problems. Boilers are not that heavy to worry a gable end. 50kg mounted high up can create a substantial load....... On a wall like a gable end? Which has racking strength from the roof timbers too? Please. That depends on the timber structure and which way the members go. You don't know anything about construction. OK, Mr Cleverclogs, So explain what happens when the roof structure is of trussed rafters with ties and there are not substantive purlins using the gable end walls..... Is the gable end wall then as load bearing or needing to be as strong? ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#13
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In article ,
"IMM" writes: "Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . 50kg mounted high up can create a substantial load....... On a wall like a gable end? Which has racking strength from the roof timbers too? Please. Gable end is often not tied to the roof trusses at all. In any case, it's not a very solid structure, so tying it to the roof trusses does not necessarily gain a lot. Also, it doesn't have any weight on it (the roof doesn't rest on it) -- the weight is just that of the wall itself. You shouldn't think of the mortar providing any lateral strength (one hairline crack, as it will surely have, and there's no strength in that direction). So just imagine it's built of loose bricks with no mortar and decide if you think it can support sufficient sideways weight. Providing boiler's low enough that there's still many times the weight of the boiler above the mounting point and the centre of gravity remains inside the wall, you would probably be OK. If there isn't much weight above the boiler mounting points and centre of gravity when taking the boiler weight into account is not still within the wall, it's an unstable structure which could collapse eventually. In addition to the displacement of the centre of gravity, there's a question of if the wall is strong enough to carry the weight without the weight pulling out some bricks, which will depend on the condition of the mortar (which in this case provides the frictional force preventing this) and the weight of wall above the mounting. Again, failure is likely if the weight above the mounting points is not substantial, i.e if you position the boiler near the top of the wall, or if the mortar is not in good condition. You can easily model all this with a child's building blocks. One way round this would be to get the neighbour on the other side of the party wall to have an identical boiler fitted on their side, with single bolts going through the wall fixing up bother boilers. Then the center of gravity will remain in the middle of the wall so the structure is stable, and there's no force pulling bricks out of the wall. -- Andrew Gabriel |
#14
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Hall wrote: So explain what happens when the roof structure is of trussed rafters with ties and there are not substantive purlins using the gable end walls..... The trusses get in the way of installing and accessing the combi? -- Cheers, Set Square ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid. |
#15
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On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 16:38:03 +0100, "Set Square"
wrote: In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Andy Hall wrote: So explain what happens when the roof structure is of trussed rafters with ties and there are not substantive purlins using the gable end walls..... The trusses get in the way of installing and accessing the combi? That could be. I was thinking more in terms of the gable ends not being incorporated with the roof trusses at all..... ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#16
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"VisionSet" wrote in message ... Now I still want to stick this stuff in the loft. A good location for me is attached to the party wall. Are these upto supporting 50Kg? Well it isn't a gable end - it is a party wall. If we assume it is not up to the weight. What can I do to make it suitable? Standard 30's construction 4ft void at apex, purlins and rafters. Brick stretcher party wall in good visual condition, lime mortar. -- Mike W |
#17
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 16:17:41 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 15:46:49 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 14:59:09 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message The part in the loft usually isn't though. Gable-end walls are notoriously weak, What are you on about? they have the same foundations as the other walls. I have mounted boilers on gables and never had any problems. Boilers are not that heavy to worry a gable end. 50kg mounted high up can create a substantial load....... On a wall like a gable end? Which has racking strength from the roof timbers too? Please. That depends on the timber structure and which way the members go. You don't know anything about construction. OK, Mr Cleverclogs, So explain what happens when the roof structure is of trussed rafters with ties and there are not substantive purlins using the gable end walls..... Is the gable end wall then as load bearing or needing to be as strong? As I said "You don't know anything about construction" |
#18
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 16:38:03 +0100, "Set Square" wrote: In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Andy Hall wrote: So explain what happens when the roof structure is of trussed rafters with ties and there are not substantive purlins using the gable end walls..... The trusses get in the way of installing and accessing the combi? That could be. I was thinking more in terms of the gable ends not being incorporated with the roof trusses at all..... he has never seen the "ladder". |
#19
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On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 18:17:14 +0100, "IMM" wrote:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 16:38:03 +0100, "Set Square" wrote: In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Andy Hall wrote: So explain what happens when the roof structure is of trussed rafters with ties and there are not substantive purlins using the gable end walls..... The trusses get in the way of installing and accessing the combi? That could be. I was thinking more in terms of the gable ends not being incorporated with the roof trusses at all..... he has never seen the "ladder". ???? ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#20
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On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 18:14:38 +0100, "IMM" wrote:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message 50kg mounted high up can create a substantial load....... On a wall like a gable end? Which has racking strength from the roof timbers too? Please. That depends on the timber structure and which way the members go. You don't know anything about construction. OK, Mr Cleverclogs, So explain what happens when the roof structure is of trussed rafters with ties and there are not substantive purlins using the gable end walls..... Is the gable end wall then as load bearing or needing to be as strong? As I said "You don't know anything about construction" I was asking you to explain something, so if this is your best offer of a reply, I guess that I can draw my own conclusions about your knowledge of the subject. ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#21
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Andy Hall wrote:
On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 18:17:14 +0100, "IMM" wrote: he has never seen the "ladder". ???? He's referring to the 'gable ladder' construction used to provide an overhanging verge at a gable end. This consists of several short horizontal timber members (running parallel to the ridge on an simple roof) nailed to the end truss, with the barge board nailed on the outside ends. Seen before the undercloak, felt and tiles go on this does look like a crude sort of ladder. When the gable end brickwork is built up it surrounds the 'rungs' of the ladder and helps tie-in the end truss to the masonry. But there should also be steel lateral restraint straps between the inner leaf of the wall and (at least) the first two trusses at each end (AIUI). 50 kg (only 0.5 kN) seems to me to be a pretty negligible load to hang on a sound brick/block wall (unless you're talking about a narrow section between window or door openings, which is hardly likely to apply in a loft). And the weight's going to be fairly close to the wall so the overturning moment will not be large. -- Andy |
#22
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 18:17:14 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 16:38:03 +0100, "Set Square" wrote: In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Andy Hall wrote: So explain what happens when the roof structure is of trussed rafters with ties and there are not substantive purlins using the gable end walls..... The trusses get in the way of installing and accessing the combi? That could be. I was thinking more in terms of the gable ends not being incorporated with the roof trusses at all..... he has never seen the "ladder". ???? The question marks prove it. |
#23
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wrote in message ... In article , IMM writes "Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 16:38:03 +0100, "Set Square" wrote: In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Andy Hall wrote: So explain what happens when the roof structure is of trussed rafters with ties and there are not substantive purlins using the gable end walls..... The trusses get in the way of installing and accessing the combi? That could be. I was thinking more in terms of the gable ends not being incorporated with the roof trusses at all..... he has never seen the "ladder". You think the ladder structurally supports the gable end? what a plonker Oh a mentalist! |
#24
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wrote in message ... In article , Andy Hall writes On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 18:17:14 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote in message . .. On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 16:38:03 +0100, "Set Square" wrote: In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Andy Hall wrote: So explain what happens when the roof structure is of trussed rafters with ties and there are not substantive purlins using the gable end walls..... The trusses get in the way of installing and accessing the combi? That could be. I was thinking more in terms of the gable ends not being incorporated with the roof trusses at all..... he has never seen the "ladder". ???? He means the extension piece that is built through the gable end to support the barge board, soffit outside, John thinks this holds the gable end together Mentalism again. |
#25
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On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 20:06:31 +0100, "IMM" wrote:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 18:17:14 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 16:38:03 +0100, "Set Square" wrote: In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Andy Hall wrote: So explain what happens when the roof structure is of trussed rafters with ties and there are not substantive purlins using the gable end walls..... The trusses get in the way of installing and accessing the combi? That could be. I was thinking more in terms of the gable ends not being incorporated with the roof trusses at all..... he has never seen the "ladder". ???? The question marks prove it. If you mean the timber construction to support an overhang if one exists, it doesn't of itself add to the structural integrity of the gable end wall ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#26
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"Andy Wade" wrote in message ... Andy Hall wrote: On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 18:17:14 +0100, "IMM" wrote: he has never seen the "ladder". ???? He's referring to the 'gable ladder' construction used to provide an overhanging verge at a gable end. This consists of several short horizontal timber members (running parallel to the ridge on an simple roof) nailed to the end truss, with the barge board nailed on the outside ends. Seen before the undercloak, felt and tiles go on this does look like a crude sort of ladder. When the gable end brickwork is built up it surrounds the 'rungs' of the ladder and helps tie-in the end truss to the masonry. But there should also be steel lateral restraint straps between the inner leaf of the wall and (at least) the first two trusses at each end (AIUI). The lateral wood support (usually a long plank) that ties in all the trusses usually has the steel lateral restraint nailed to it and the other end of the right angle of the steel restraint either screwed or cemented in to the gable end wall. The steel restraint can be quite long and go over the length of three trusses. These steel restraints help join the gable to the roof. They also help to keep it doiewn in high winds. Have a look around Wickes as they have them there. If some roofs do not have them., older roofs may not, then it is worth fixing a number of these metal restraints and fitting them. Wind speeds in the UK are rising and these restraints may mean the difference of your roof lifting off or not. They also prevent an old gable wall creeping outwards if the ground conditions change. 50 kg (only 0.5 kN) seems to me to be a pretty negligible load to hang on a sound brick/block wall (unless you're talking about a narrow section between window or door openings, which is hardly likely to apply in a loft). And the weight's going to be fairly close to the wall so the overturning moment will not be large. Some sense at last. This bunch seem to think a gable end sits there unconnected to anything else and is so feeble, complete with feeble foundations, it can't hold a combi. I despair at times. |
#27
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 20:06:31 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 18:17:14 +0100, "IMM" wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 16:38:03 +0100, "Set Square" wrote: In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Andy Hall wrote: So explain what happens when the roof structure is of trussed rafters with ties and there are not substantive purlins using the gable end walls..... The trusses get in the way of installing and accessing the combi? That could be. I was thinking more in terms of the gable ends not being incorporated with the roof trusses at all..... he has never seen the "ladder". ???? The question marks prove it. If you mean the timber construction to support an overhang if one exists, it doesn't of itself add to the structural integrity of the gable end wall Stop babbling. |
#28
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On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 19:56:20 +0100, Andy Wade
wrote: Andy Hall wrote: On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 18:17:14 +0100, "IMM" wrote: he has never seen the "ladder". ???? He's referring to the 'gable ladder' construction used to provide an overhanging verge at a gable end. This consists of several short horizontal timber members (running parallel to the ridge on an simple roof) nailed to the end truss, with the barge board nailed on the outside ends. Seen before the undercloak, felt and tiles go on this does look like a crude sort of ladder. When the gable end brickwork is built up it surrounds the 'rungs' of the ladder and helps tie-in the end truss to the masonry. But there should also be steel lateral restraint straps between the inner leaf of the wall and (at least) the first two trusses at each end (AIUI). I know exactly what you mean, but not by that name. Of itself it is not lending support to the wall. 50 kg (only 0.5 kN) seems to me to be a pretty negligible load to hang on a sound brick/block wall (unless you're talking about a narrow section between window or door openings, which is hardly likely to apply in a loft). And the weight's going to be fairly close to the wall so the overturning moment will not be large. For a party wall, if also structural, then I don't see an issue. Otherwise....... ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
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"VisionSet" wrote in message ... Well it isn't a gable end - it is a party wall. If we assume it is not up to the weight. What can I do to make it suitable? Standard 30's construction 4ft void at apex, purlins and rafters. Brick stretcher party wall in good visual condition, lime mortar. -- Mike W I have no specialist knowledge, but I wondered if it is possible for the weight to be taken by the loft floor rather than the wall. I know such floors are not meant to take weight, but they are nonetheless used to house equally heavy water tanks. Or does the placement of such tanks rely upon a structural wall underneath? James --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.719 / Virus Database: 475 - Release Date: 13/07/2004 |
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On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 14:59:09 +0100, IMM wrote:
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message The part in the loft usually isn't though. Gable-end walls are notoriously weak, What are you on about? they have the same foundations as the other walls. I have mounted boilers on gables and never had any problems. Boilers are not that heavy to worry a gable end. The foundations are the same as you say. Problem is with top ends of walls which don't support anything above. I'm not a civil engineer - I'm thinking this through as a physicist, so obligatory hypothetical situation - but bear with me he Take a pile of bricks and construct a 6ft high by say, 4ft wide, 9in thick dry wall (no mortar or other filler) on a stable level surface. Kick the bottom - I would wager a fiver you'll hurt your foot before you move any bricks due to the weight holding them in place. Try nearer the top - should be able to knock out a load of bricks easily because you only need enough sideways force to overcome a little friction. Add mortar - that will scale the strength up by providing adhesion and better interlocking, but strength is still a function of internal load - and the top end of a wall carrying nothing is thus considerably weaker than a loaded wall or the base of the same. The combi will be hanging off one side of the wall giving you a significant turning moment which only needs to overcome the adhesion of the mortar and the weight of a few feet of bricks. I have no idea how heavy a combi is - but I'd consider it worthy of further investigation before hanging it up on a gable end. What's the typical weight of a small combi out of interest - and how deep is one? I won't contest that you've done it and it nothing fell off - but I wouldn't be so happy about doing it myself without a second opinion. Cheers Tim |
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"James" wrote in message ... Well it isn't a gable end - it is a party wall. If we assume it is not up to the weight. What can I do to make it suitable? Standard 30's construction 4ft void at apex, purlins and rafters. Brick stretcher party wall in good visual condition, lime mortar. I have no specialist knowledge, but I wondered if it is possible for the weight to be taken by the loft floor rather than the wall. I know such floors are not meant to take weight, but they are nonetheless used to house equally heavy water tanks. Or does the placement of such tanks rely upon a structural wall underneath? I see no reason why not, except that is is easier if there is good access underneath for pipework connection. Boilers tend to come on a wall mounted jig, which makes life easier. The load bearing wall that supports the party wall will be very close though so that wouldn't be a problem. And yes tanks are supposed to be close to or on a supporting wall. I don't think it will be a problem, but I'll ask uncle architect first. -- Mike W |
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Andy Hall wrote:
50kg mounted high up can create a substantial load....... He did say it was a party wall. in a 1930's house this would normally be double brick and not a problem. Regards Capitol |
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On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 00:01:04 +0100, Capitol
wrote: Andy Hall wrote: 50kg mounted high up can create a substantial load....... He did say it was a party wall. in a 1930's house this would normally be double brick and not a problem. Regards Capitol Mmm I know, and did intimate that a structural party wall probably would be. My doubts were in relation to gable end walls which may be a different situation. ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 19:56:20 +0100, Andy Wade wrote: Andy Hall wrote: On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 18:17:14 +0100, "IMM" wrote: he has never seen the "ladder". ???? He's referring to the 'gable ladder' construction used to provide an overhanging verge at a gable end. This consists of several short horizontal timber members (running parallel to the ridge on an simple roof) nailed to the end truss, with the barge board nailed on the outside ends. Seen before the undercloak, felt and tiles go on this does look like a crude sort of ladder. When the gable end brickwork is built up it surrounds the 'rungs' of the ladder and helps tie-in the end truss to the masonry. But there should also be steel lateral restraint straps between the inner leaf of the wall and (at least) the first two trusses at each end (AIUI). I know exactly what you mean, but not by that name. Of itself it is not lending support to the wall. Does that mean you are not going to lean on this wall? 50 kg (only 0.5 kN) seems to me to be a pretty negligible load to hang on a sound brick/block wall (unless you're talking about a narrow section between window or door openings, which is hardly likely to apply in a loft). And the weight's going to be fairly close to the wall so the overturning moment will not be large. For a party wall, if also structural, then I don't see an issue. Otherwise....... .andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
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IMM wrote:
Oh a mentalist! Out of curiosity, exactly what do you think that means? -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
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John Rumm wrote:
IMM wrote: Oh a mentalist! Out of curiosity, exactly what do you think that means? It seems to be IMM-word-of-the-month. Dictionary.com gives two definitions: 1. Parapsychological activities, such as telepathy and mind reading. 2. The belief that some mental phenomena cannot be explained by physical laws. The Concise OED also has two: Mentalism n. (Philos.) doctrine that mind, and not the material world, is real; (Psych.) doctrine that the mind may be studied by introspection; so ~ist(2) n. -- Andy |
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On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 08:11:22 +0100, Andy Wade
wrote: John Rumm wrote: IMM wrote: Oh a mentalist! Out of curiosity, exactly what do you think that means? It seems to be IMM-word-of-the-month. It's nearly October, so not long until we have the next WOTM, and state-sponsored heating solution for the terraviduated proletariat. Dictionary.com gives two definitions: 1. Parapsychological activities, such as telepathy and mind reading. 2. The belief that some mental phenomena cannot be explained by physical laws. The second definition sounds uncannily like IMM's modus operandi. The Concise OED also has two: Mentalism n. (Philos.) doctrine that mind, and not the material world, is real; (Psych.) doctrine that the mind may be studied by introspection; so ~ist(2) n. ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
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"Capitol" wrote in message ... Andy Hall wrote: 50kg mounted high up can create a substantial load....... He did say it was a party wall. in a 1930's house this would normally be double brick and not a problem. In fact amongst the bull**** and slagging I've stated it is stretcher bond brick with lime mortar. However I also suspect that it is double leaf, possibly with wooden wall ties. I know a builder who knows these houses intimately I ask him - just remembered. -- Mike W |
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 08:11:22 +0100, Andy Wade wrote: John Rumm wrote: IMM wrote: Oh a mentalist! Out of curiosity, exactly what do you think that means? It seems to be IMM-word-of-the-month. It's nearly October, so not long until we have the next WOTM, and state-sponsored heating solution for the terraviduated proletariat. Madness. Total Little Middle England madness. |
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In article ,
"James" writes: "VisionSet" wrote in message ... Well it isn't a gable end - it is a party wall. If we assume it is not up to the weight. What can I do to make it suitable? Standard 30's construction 4ft void at apex, purlins and rafters. Brick stretcher party wall in good visual condition, lime mortar. I have no specialist knowledge, but I wondered if it is possible for the weight to be taken by the loft floor rather than the wall. I know such floors are not meant to take weight, but they are nonetheless used to house equally heavy water tanks. Or does the placement of such tanks rely upon a structural wall underneath? I would probably look for a frame which would transfer the weight to the floor, and position it over a wall (50Kg is not heavy enough for it to need to be positioned over a structural wall), or spread across a few ceiling joists (but not in the middle of a long unsupported span). Fix it to the party wall and floor. I've seen something like this used to hold a boiler over a hot water cylinder to make a single combined unit. You could try asking in a plumber's merchant if they have such a frame. -- Andrew Gabriel |
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