Hi
I have three storage heaters in the first floor of my maisonette flat.
One is in the hall as you come in and then the other two are in the
living room. They are Dimplex XLS heaters, XLS18, XLS12 and an XLS24.
Two have stopped working (XLS18 and 24), although the middle one is
still functioning. They are probably around 15 years old.
I have attempted to work out why they have stopped working but don't
really seem to be getting anywhere. So any help is gratefully
accepted. They run on Economy 7, though a seperate ring with 20a
fuses. I have checked the fuses and they are all correct. The two
broken heaters do not work at all. I have checked the elements in them
and they all seem to be OK (no obvious breaks in continuity). The
thermistor seems to be working as well although I am a little unsure
of how to correctly check it. One of the other things that I'm not
sure about is a brown thermal fuse that is wired in to the input
circuit, I'm only guessing that it is a thermal fuse but it might be
some sort of regulator, it is brown rectangular block with a ceramic /
white interior and has 3k8-J then greek resistance symbol and then the
ohm symbol. Underneath it has 113-102, but no other marks.
I believe that this is only active when there is current, which is
hard for me to test as I no longer live at the flat so I'm not there
during economy seven hours. I tested for continuity but it did not
register, but then when I tested the same component on the working
heater it did not register either.

Does anyone have any pointers on how to check or replace these parts?
I have found a few web sites selling spares but I'm not sure what to
order?

Thanks in advance

Adrian

Adrian wrote:

[...] I'm only guessing that it is a thermal fuse but it might be
some sort of regulator, it is brown rectangular block with a ceramic /
white interior and has 3k8-J then greek resistance symbol and then the
ohm symbol. Underneath it has 113-102, but no other marks.

That sounds _awfully_ like a resistor to me: 3800 ohms and "J" means
+/-5% tolerance. Are you sure the value isn't 3k9, or 6k8, as these
would be more 'standard'?

What it's doing in a storage heater is a good question - accelerator
resistor for a thermostat perhaps.

I can't help much more I'm afraid, have you tried phoning Glen-Dimplex
to see if you can find a helpful service bod?

--
Andy

In message , Andy Wade
writes
Adrian wrote:

[...] I'm only guessing that it is a thermal fuse but it might be
some sort of regulator, it is brown rectangular block with a ceramic /
white interior and has 3k8-J then greek resistance symbol and then the
ohm symbol. Underneath it has 113-102, but no other marks.

That sounds _awfully_ like a resistor to me: 3800 ohms and "J" means
+/-5% tolerance. Are you sure the value isn't 3k9, or 6k8, as these
would be more 'standard'?

What it's doing in a storage heater is a good question - accelerator
resistor for a thermostat perhaps.

I can't help much more I'm afraid, have you tried phoning Glen-Dimplex
to see if you can find a helpful service bod?

113-102 sounds like an RS part no

phone them up and ask what it is, if it's a n oscilloscope, then that's
my idea down the drain


--
geoff

raden wrote:

113-102 sounds like an RS part no

phone them up and ask what it is, if it's a n oscilloscope, then that's
my idea down the drain

I thought of that and typed it into the web site. You get an MCB and
something else irrelevant. Your turn to try Farnell - they use similar
SKU numbers.

--
Andy

On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 01:41:38 +0100, Andy Wade wrote:

113-102 sounds like an RS part no

I thought of that and typed it into the web site. You get an MCB
and something else irrelevant. Your turn to try Farnell - they use
similar SKU numbers.

The only times I found an RS or other companies part inside a
commercial product is after it has been repaired by some one with
enough knowledge to select such a part rather than just buy the makers
spare...

I've currently got a dead storage heater and it's the heat input
thermostat that has failed. This has happened before on another heater
of similar vintage, looks like the "wax" from the sensor leaks onto
one of the terminals, causing a little corrosion which then causes
heating and finally complete disintegration of the terminal. New heat
input controls are =A330+... B-(

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

In message , Andy Wade
writes
raden wrote:

113-102 sounds like an RS part no
phone them up and ask what it is, if it's a n oscilloscope, then
that's my idea down the drain

I thought of that and typed it into the web site. You get an MCB and
something else irrelevant. Your turn to try Farnell - they use similar
SKU numbers.

Allen key, micrometer or cable ties - -so obviously incomplete

Well, it was a thought

--
geoff

I also tried searching for the parts on various web sites b ut again
no joy.
I phoned dimplex and they have told me that it is an
accelerator/resistor. It is used to help open the output valve.

It is probably the thermostat. So I'll get a spare one and test it.

Thanks for the help

Adrian
On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 20:48:29 GMT, raden wrote:

In message , Andy Wade
writes
raden wrote:

113-102 sounds like an RS part no
phone them up and ask what it is, if it's a n oscilloscope, then
that's my idea down the drain

I thought of that and typed it into the web site. You get an MCB and
something else irrelevant. Your turn to try Farnell - they use similar
SKU numbers.

Allen key, micrometer or cable ties - -so obviously incomplete

Well, it was a thought

Adrian

To reply remove nospam from address

Adrian wrote:

I phoned dimplex and they have told me that it is an
accelerator/resistor. It is used to help open the output valve.

Ah, so I wasn't far wrong. But how do they control the output valve
(flap?) during the 17 hr for which the power is off? - or is there a 24
hr supply as well as the switched supply?

It is probably the thermostat. So I'll get a spare one and test it.

FWIW the Unidare ones I use in the workshop have two input thermostats
in series: one (with remote capillary bulb) at the bottom sensing the
ambient air temperature and one on top of the core sensing the charge
temperature. Both are simple bimetallic stats (no 'acceleration'). The
output flap control on these is purely thermo-mechanical.

--
Andy

Well I'm not sure. These heaters are only connected to E7 so no other
supply. However it is connected to the bimetallic switch so perhaps it
is just to make sure that the switch is open when the E7 is on to
prevent over heating?

Adrian

On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 07:51:13 +0100, Andy Wade
wrote:

Adrian wrote:

I phoned dimplex and they have told me that it is an
accelerator/resistor. It is used to help open the output valve.

Ah, so I wasn't far wrong. But how do they control the output valve
(flap?) during the 17 hr for which the power is off? - or is there a 24
hr supply as well as the switched supply?

It is probably the thermostat. So I'll get a spare one and test it.

FWIW the Unidare ones I use in the workshop have two input thermostats
in series: one (with remote capillary bulb) at the bottom sensing the
ambient air temperature and one on top of the core sensing the charge
temperature. Both are simple bimetallic stats (no 'acceleration'). The
output flap control on these is purely thermo-mechanical.

Adrian

To reply remove nospam from address