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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed
under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? |
#2
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In article ,
Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? Isolate the circuit, then check for continuity between the broken one and a good one, on both L&N individually. Are they looped in and out? A multimeter might still show 240v with a slightly iffy connection. -- *Never miss a good chance to shut up * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#3
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On 01/06/2021 16:19, Jack Harry Teesdale wrote:
I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. I bet that 240V drops almost to zero when there's a load (such as a bulb). Bill |
#4
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On 01/06/2021 16:19, Jack Harry Teesdale wrote:
I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? Corrosion on a contact or junction |
#5
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![]() "Jack Harry Teesdale" wrote in message ... I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? Its a bad joint somewhere. It will deliver the very low current the multimeter needs but not the full current the bulb needs. |
#6
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On Wed, 2 Jun 2021 05:30:49 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread -- "Who or What is Rod Speed? Rod Speed is an entirely modern phenomenon. Essentially, Rod Speed is an insecure and worthless individual who has discovered he can enhance his own self-esteem in his own eyes by playing "the big, hard man" on the InterNet." https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/ |
#7
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On Tue, 01 Jun 2021 16:39:45 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: In article , Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? Isolate the circuit, then check for continuity between the broken one and a good one, on both L&N individually. Are they looped in and out? A multimeter might still show 240v with a slightly iffy connection. I've found that modern bulbs sometimes have contacts that are not as tall, so when inserted they don't reach the ones in the socket. -- Dave W |
#8
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![]() "Dave W" wrote in message ... On Tue, 01 Jun 2021 16:39:45 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? Isolate the circuit, then check for continuity between the broken one and a good one, on both L&N individually. Are they looped in and out? A multimeter might still show 240v with a slightly iffy connection. I've found that modern bulbs sometimes have contacts that are not as tall, so when inserted they don't reach the ones in the socket. Doesn't explain why that bulb STOPPED WORKING but still works fine in other sockets. |
#9
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On 01/06/2021 16:54, williamwright wrote:
On 01/06/2021 16:19, Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. I bet that 240V drops almost to zero when there's a load (such as a bulb). That was my thought, perhaps a poor connection through corrosion. |
#11
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Yes , but this one had been working fine had it not?
Brian -- This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please Note this Signature is meaningless.! "Dave W" wrote in message ... On Tue, 01 Jun 2021 16:39:45 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? Isolate the circuit, then check for continuity between the broken one and a good one, on both L&N individually. Are they looped in and out? A multimeter might still show 240v with a slightly iffy connection. I've found that modern bulbs sometimes have contacts that are not as tall, so when inserted they don't reach the ones in the socket. -- Dave W |
#12
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On 02/06/2021 01:07, Rod Speed wrote:
"Dave W" wrote in message ... On Tue, 01 Jun 2021 16:39:45 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , Â* Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? Isolate the circuit, then check for continuity between the broken one and a good one, on both L&N individually. Are they looped in and out? A multimeter might still show 240v with a slightly iffy connection. I've found that modern bulbs sometimes have contacts that are not as tall, so when inserted they don't reach the ones in the socket. Doesn't explain why that bulb STOPPED WORKING but still works fine in other sockets. What bulb connector type is it? i.e. MR16? SBC? BC? GU10? ES? SES? |
#13
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On Wed, 2 Jun 2021 10:07:31 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: I've found that modern bulbs sometimes have contacts that are not as tall, so when inserted they don't reach the ones in the socket. Doesn't explain why that bulb STOPPED WORKING but still works fine in other sockets. It WOULD explain it, if for some (not yet known) reason the contacts didn't reach the ones in the specific socket. Actually that's what sometimes happens and can sometimes (and sometimes not) be corrected by screwing in the lamp with extreme force, you pathological senile know-it-all. -- Richard about senile Rodent: "Rod Speed, a bare faced pig and ignorant ****." MID: |
#14
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On 02/06/2021 08:52, SH wrote:
On 02/06/2021 01:07, Rod Speed wrote: "Dave W" wrote in message ... On Tue, 01 Jun 2021 16:39:45 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , Â* Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? Isolate the circuit, then check for continuity between the broken one and a good one, on both L&N individually. Are they looped in and out? A multimeter might still show 240v with a slightly iffy connection. I've found that modern bulbs sometimes have contacts that are not as tall, so when inserted they don't reach the ones in the socket. Doesn't explain why that bulb STOPPED WORKING but still works fine in other sockets. What bulb connector type is it? i.e. MR16? SBC? BC? GU10? ES? SES? BC and i've tried several 'good' bulbs of differing wattages but no light! I'll be checking for circuit continuity today. |
#15
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On 02/06/2021 08:41, Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:
Yes , but this one had been working fine had it not? Brian Previously, yes and the same bulb still works in a different fitting. It's looking like the problem is with the circuit continuity to the fitting. |
#16
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On 02/06/2021 11:24, Jack Harry Teesdale wrote:
On 02/06/2021 08:52, SH wrote: On 02/06/2021 01:07, Rod Speed wrote: "Dave W" wrote in message ... On Tue, 01 Jun 2021 16:39:45 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , Â* Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? Isolate the circuit, then check for continuity between the broken one and a good one, on both L&N individually. Are they looped in and out? A multimeter might still show 240v with a slightly iffy connection. I've found that modern bulbs sometimes have contacts that are not as tall, so when inserted they don't reach the ones in the socket. Doesn't explain why that bulb STOPPED WORKING but still works fine in other sockets. What bulb connector type is it? i.e. MR16? SBC? BC? GU10? ES? SES? BC and i've tried several 'good' bulbs of differing wattages but no light! I'll be checking for circuit continuity today. Aha....... I think I know what the problem is....... The BC pins in the bulb holder are spring loaded and comprises of a top cylinder sitting within a slightly larger bottom cylinder. When you insert a bulb, the two cylinders are then compressed and is under spring tension. Sometimes the two cylinders on one of the pins corrode and stick in a closed position. So when you insert a bulb, the stick pin no longer touches the bottom of the bulb but there is 220V present on the pins itself. Turn the power off and and try working loose the stuck pin, and lubricate with WD40 or replace with a new BC fitting. BC pin corrosion is common in outdoor light fittings.... :-) S. |
#17
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On 02/06/2021 11:39, SH wrote:
On 02/06/2021 11:24, Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: On 02/06/2021 08:52, SH wrote: On 02/06/2021 01:07, Rod Speed wrote: "Dave W" wrote in message ... On Tue, 01 Jun 2021 16:39:45 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , Â* Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? Isolate the circuit, then check for continuity between the broken one and a good one, on both L&N individually. Are they looped in and out? A multimeter might still show 240v with a slightly iffy connection. I've found that modern bulbs sometimes have contacts that are not as tall, so when inserted they don't reach the ones in the socket. Doesn't explain why that bulb STOPPED WORKING but still works fine in other sockets. What bulb connector type is it? i.e. MR16? SBC? BC? GU10? ES? SES? BC and i've tried several 'good' bulbs of differing wattages but no light! I'll be checking for circuit continuity today. Aha....... I think I know what the problem is....... The BC pins in the bulb holder are spring loaded and comprises of a top cylinder sitting within a slightly larger bottom cylinder. When you insert a bulb, the two cylinders are then compressed and is under spring tension. Sometimes the two cylinders on one of the pins corrode and stick in a closed position. So when you insert a bulb, the stick pin no longer touches the bottom of the bulb but there is 220V present on the pins itself. Turn the power off and and try working loose the stuck pin, and lubricate with WD40 or replace with a new BC fitting. BC pin corrosion is common in outdoor light fittings.... :-) S. Thanks but i've already fitted a brand new lamp holder (as mentioned in my original post) but the light still doesn't work. I think it's a circuit continuity problem which i am checking. |
#18
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On 02/06/2021 11:59, Jack Harry Teesdale wrote:
On 02/06/2021 11:39, SH wrote: On 02/06/2021 11:24, Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: On 02/06/2021 08:52, SH wrote: On 02/06/2021 01:07, Rod Speed wrote: "Dave W" wrote in message ... On Tue, 01 Jun 2021 16:39:45 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , Â* Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? Isolate the circuit, then check for continuity between the broken one and a good one, on both L&N individually. Are they looped in and out? A multimeter might still show 240v with a slightly iffy connection. I've found that modern bulbs sometimes have contacts that are not as tall, so when inserted they don't reach the ones in the socket. Doesn't explain why that bulb STOPPED WORKING but still works fine in other sockets. What bulb connector type is it? i.e. MR16? SBC? BC? GU10? ES? SES? BC and i've tried several 'good' bulbs of differing wattages but no light! I'll be checking for circuit continuity today. Aha....... I think I know what the problem is....... The BC pins in the bulb holder are spring loaded and comprises of a top cylinder sitting within a slightly larger bottom cylinder. When you insert a bulb, the two cylinders are then compressed and is under spring tension. Sometimes the two cylinders on one of the pins corrode and stick in a closed position. So when you insert a bulb, the stick pin no longer touches the bottom of the bulb but there is 220V present on the pins itself. Turn the power off and and try working loose the stuck pin, and lubricate with WD40 or replace with a new BC fitting. BC pin corrosion is common in outdoor light fittings.... :-) S. Thanks but i've already fitted a brand new lamp holder (as mentioned in my original post) but the light still doesn't work. I think it's a circuit continuity problem which i am checking. have you checked the pins of the new lamp holder AND also the two captive catches on the circuference? occasionally one side chips off resulting in the bulb leaning at an angle in the holder being held by only one side pin instead of both pins. You could also create a dummy load tester by copnnecting a pair of test leads to a knwon good bulb holder and known good bulb. Test this on a known good lamp holder and then text sgain on the lamp holder you wish to test. |
#19
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On 02/06/2021 12:38, SH wrote:
On 02/06/2021 11:59, Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: On 02/06/2021 11:39, SH wrote: On 02/06/2021 11:24, Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: On 02/06/2021 08:52, SH wrote: On 02/06/2021 01:07, Rod Speed wrote: "Dave W" wrote in message ... On Tue, 01 Jun 2021 16:39:45 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , Â* Jack Harry Teesdale wrote: I have a series of 8 mains voltage outside bulkhead type lights. (fixed under the soffits). One stopped working so i duly had the cover off and replaced the lamp. The light did not come on. Tested the lamp in another source and it works OK, so not that. I changed the lamp holder and tried again, still not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get approx 240v at the lampholder, so not a broken neutral. All the other 7 lights are working OK. Any suggestions/solutions to try? Isolate the circuit, then check for continuity between the broken one and a good one, on both L&N individually. Are they looped in and out? A multimeter might still show 240v with a slightly iffy connection. I've found that modern bulbs sometimes have contacts that are not as tall, so when inserted they don't reach the ones in the socket. Doesn't explain why that bulb STOPPED WORKING but still works fine in other sockets. What bulb connector type is it? i.e. MR16? SBC? BC? GU10? ES? SES? BC and i've tried several 'good' bulbs of differing wattages but no light! I'll be checking for circuit continuity today. Aha....... I think I know what the problem is....... The BC pins in the bulb holder are spring loaded and comprises of a top cylinder sitting within a slightly larger bottom cylinder. When you insert a bulb, the two cylinders are then compressed and is under spring tension. Sometimes the two cylinders on one of the pins corrode and stick in a closed position. So when you insert a bulb, the stick pin no longer touches the bottom of the bulb but there is 220V present on the pins itself. Turn the power off and and try working loose the stuck pin, and lubricate with WD40 or replace with a new BC fitting. BC pin corrosion is common in outdoor light fittings.... :-) S. Thanks but i've already fitted a brand new lamp holder (as mentioned in my original post) but the light still doesn't work. I think it's a circuit continuity problem which i am checking. have you checked the pins of the new lamp holder AND also the two captive catches on the circuference? occasionally one side chips off resulting in the bulb leaning at an angle in the holder being held by only one side pin instead of both pins. You could also create a dummy load tester by copnnecting a pair of test leads to a knwon good bulb holder and known good bulb. Test this on a known good lamp holder and then text sgain on the lamp holder you wish to test. Done all that thanks. |
#20
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On 02/06/2021 08:39, Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:
Is this voltage there when the bulb that is good is in? I'd suspect not. Then its just a case of looking backwards to find where it goes away. Rodent damage perhaps? Loose Connection block somewhere?. If that does turn out to be the case, check any others to save time later on. Brian I couldn't find what the fault was so i bypassed that section of cable and hey presto the light is now working again. Thanks to all for your suggestions. Jack Harry |
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