Right...

I grow strawberries in a greenhouse. I use 14 litre builders buckets
with drainage holes drilled into the bottom.

I have 45 said buckets in a greenhouse with an automatic fertigation system.

Last year I had Elsanta strawberries.

This year I now have 4 varieties, Honoeye, Cambridge gold and Florence
as well as the aforementioned Elsanta as some crop earlier and some crop
later to widen out the harvest season.

Now I also grow new strawberry plants every year from the stolons from
the current plants.


Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed is
and (b) what its birth year was.



sticky labels will come off easily.

permanent marker pens fade in the sunlight.

Those white sticks get easily knocked out out the soil.

I dont mind marking the buckets directly but bear in mind I need to be
able to reuse the bucket once the strawberry plants has been binned when
reaching age 3.

I could drill holes into the rim of the bucket to indicate 1 or 2 or 3
holes for year but what about the breed of the plant? square hole,
triangular hole, slot hole and round hole perhaps? where would one get
such a puncher?

On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:
Right...

I grow strawberries in a greenhouse. I use 14 litre builders buckets
with drainage holes drilled into the bottom.

I have 45 said buckets in a greenhouse with an automatic fertigation
system.

Last year I had Elsanta strawberries.

This year I now have 4 varieties, Honoeye, Cambridge gold and Florence
as well as the aforementioned Elsanta as some crop earlier and some crop
later to widen out the harvest season.

Now I also grow new strawberry plants every year from the stolons from
the current plants.

I throw strawberry plants in the compost bin after 3 years (fruit yield
is poor thereafter so all strawberry plants are always 3 years old or
younger.)

Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed is
and (b) what its birth year was.

sticky labels will come off easily.

permanent marker pens fade in the sunlight.

Those white sticks get easily knocked out out the soil.

I dont mind marking the buckets directly but bear in mind I need to be
able to reuse the bucket once the strawberry plants has been binned when
reaching age 3.

I could drill holes into the rim of the bucket to indicate 1 or 2 or 3
holes for year but what about the breed of the plant? square hole,
triangular hole, slot hole and round hole perhaps? where would one get
such a puncher?

On Saturday, March 20, 2021 at 8:27:40 PM UTC, SH wrote:
On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:
Right...

I grow strawberries in a greenhouse. I use 14 litre builders buckets
with drainage holes drilled into the bottom.

I have 45 said buckets in a greenhouse with an automatic fertigation
system.

Last year I had Elsanta strawberries.

This year I now have 4 varieties, Honoeye, Cambridge gold and Florence
as well as the aforementioned Elsanta as some crop earlier and some crop
later to widen out the harvest season.

Now I also grow new strawberry plants every year from the stolons from
the current plants.
I throw strawberry plants in the compost bin after 3 years (fruit yield
is poor thereafter so all strawberry plants are always 3 years old or
younger.)

Separate to your query, but since you seem to know your strawberries...

I have a couple of strawberry beds and have been a bit lax about cutting
off runners etc. I am about to tidy things up; is it worth clearing out the
older plants and letting the new ones formed from runners grow on; or should
I clear the whole lot out?

Thanks for your advice
J^n

On 21/03/2021 10:40, jkn wrote:
On Saturday, March 20, 2021 at 8:27:40 PM UTC, SH wrote:
On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:
Right...

I grow strawberries in a greenhouse. I use 14 litre builders buckets
with drainage holes drilled into the bottom.

I have 45 said buckets in a greenhouse with an automatic fertigation
system.

Last year I had Elsanta strawberries.

This year I now have 4 varieties, Honoeye, Cambridge gold and Florence
as well as the aforementioned Elsanta as some crop earlier and some crop
later to widen out the harvest season.

Now I also grow new strawberry plants every year from the stolons from
the current plants.
I throw strawberry plants in the compost bin after 3 years (fruit yield
is poor thereafter so all strawberry plants are always 3 years old or
younger.)

Separate to your query, but since you seem to know your strawberries...

I have a couple of strawberry beds and have been a bit lax about cutting
off runners etc. I am about to tidy things up; is it worth clearing out the
older plants and letting the new ones formed from runners grow on; or should
I clear the whole lot out?

Thanks for your advice
J^n


I grow new plants from the stolons (the correct name for runners).

I fill a pot with compost and use an elastic band to hold the plantlet
through the compost through the holes in bottom of the pot.

DO NOT CUT OFF from the mother plant yet, water and wait at least 2
weeks for the plantlet to take root. If the pot is smallishm you will
see some new roots coming out of the bottom of the pot.

Then and only then cut the stolon off at both ends (between mother plant
and new established "baby" strawberry plant.

Once the mother plant is more than 3 years old, bin it it will no longer
be a good cropper.

Then the new strawberry plant then gets transplanted into one of my
black buckets thats just been vacated by a departed geriatric plant.....

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 10:54:55 PM UTC, SH wrote:
On 21/03/2021 10:40, jkn wrote:
On Saturday, March 20, 2021 at 8:27:40 PM UTC, SH wrote:
On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:
Right...

I grow strawberries in a greenhouse. I use 14 litre builders buckets
with drainage holes drilled into the bottom.

I have 45 said buckets in a greenhouse with an automatic fertigation
system.

Last year I had Elsanta strawberries.

This year I now have 4 varieties, Honoeye, Cambridge gold and Florence
as well as the aforementioned Elsanta as some crop earlier and some crop
later to widen out the harvest season.

Now I also grow new strawberry plants every year from the stolons from
the current plants.
I throw strawberry plants in the compost bin after 3 years (fruit yield
is poor thereafter so all strawberry plants are always 3 years old or
younger.)

Separate to your query, but since you seem to know your strawberries...

I have a couple of strawberry beds and have been a bit lax about cutting
off runners etc. I am about to tidy things up; is it worth clearing out the
older plants and letting the new ones formed from runners grow on; or should
I clear the whole lot out?

Thanks for your advice
J^n

I grow new plants from the stolons (the correct name for runners).

I fill a pot with compost and use an elastic band to hold the plantlet
through the compost through the holes in bottom of the pot.

DO NOT CUT OFF from the mother plant yet, water and wait at least 2
weeks for the plantlet to take root. If the pot is smallishm you will
see some new roots coming out of the bottom of the pot.

Then and only then cut the stolon off at both ends (between mother plant
and new established "baby" strawberry plant.

Once the mother plant is more than 3 years old, bin it it will no longer
be a good cropper.

Then the new strawberry plant then gets transplanted into one of my
black buckets thats just been vacated by a departed geriatric plant.....

Thanks, that's useful. As I said, I have been lazy, so I have beds full of
both old and new plants. This weekend I have cleared things a bit,
sorted the plants into 'old and matted' and 'younger - maybe from stolons',
and replanted the latter, with some new compost.

I keep meaning to do the 'nurture in a small pot, then separate' exercise you
suggest, but never seem to get around to it. Maybe this year...

J^n

On 22/03/2021 17:33, jkn wrote:
On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 10:54:55 PM UTC, SH wrote:
On 21/03/2021 10:40, jkn wrote:
On Saturday, March 20, 2021 at 8:27:40 PM UTC, SH wrote:
On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:
Right...

I grow strawberries in a greenhouse. I use 14 litre builders buckets
with drainage holes drilled into the bottom.

I have 45 said buckets in a greenhouse with an automatic fertigation
system.

Last year I had Elsanta strawberries.

This year I now have 4 varieties, Honoeye, Cambridge gold and Florence
as well as the aforementioned Elsanta as some crop earlier and some crop
later to widen out the harvest season.

Now I also grow new strawberry plants every year from the stolons from
the current plants.
I throw strawberry plants in the compost bin after 3 years (fruit yield
is poor thereafter so all strawberry plants are always 3 years old or
younger.)

Separate to your query, but since you seem to know your strawberries...

I have a couple of strawberry beds and have been a bit lax about cutting
off runners etc. I am about to tidy things up; is it worth clearing out the
older plants and letting the new ones formed from runners grow on; or should
I clear the whole lot out?

Thanks for your advice
J^n

I grow new plants from the stolons (the correct name for runners).

I fill a pot with compost and use an elastic band to hold the plantlet
through the compost through the holes in bottom of the pot.

DO NOT CUT OFF from the mother plant yet, water and wait at least 2
weeks for the plantlet to take root. If the pot is smallishm you will
see some new roots coming out of the bottom of the pot.

Then and only then cut the stolon off at both ends (between mother plant
and new established "baby" strawberry plant.

Once the mother plant is more than 3 years old, bin it it will no longer
be a good cropper.

Then the new strawberry plant then gets transplanted into one of my
black buckets thats just been vacated by a departed geriatric plant.....

Thanks, that's useful. As I said, I have been lazy, so I have beds full of
both old and new plants. This weekend I have cleared things a bit,
sorted the plants into 'old and matted' and 'younger - maybe from stolons',
and replanted the latter, with some new compost.

I keep meaning to do the 'nurture in a small pot, then separate' exercise you
suggest, but never seem to get around to it. Maybe this year...

J^n


If you are growing outside, they need feeding with a strawberry
fertilser weekly, if grown in a greenhouse, feed TWICE weekly.

Always try and keep the strawberries OFF the soil. a bed of straw or
similar helps with that.

I normally harvest my new plantlets from the stolons once the fruiting
season has finished which is usually July.

Then before winter, you literally mow your strawberry bed with a lawn
mower or cut off in pots/buckets with secateurs.

(The current years foliage always dies off and turns brown, the pruning
is to protect the crown from any disease starting in the dying off leaves)

On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:

Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed is
and (b) what its birth year was.

Dymo Rhino 4200 Label Printer With QWERTY (UK) Keyboard would be
perfect. I use one for outdoor labels. They don't fade or fall off.

Bill

On 20/03/2021 20:50, williamwright wrote:
On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:

Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed
is and (b) what its birth year was.

Dymo Rhino 4200 Label Printer With QWERTY (UK) Keyboard would be
perfect. I use one for outdoor labels. They don't fade or fall off.

Bill


Thats an interesting thought......

I do have this machine as it happens:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dymo-S08839..._t3_B006QMASNU

The buckets I use are these:

https://www.diy.com/departments/prop...0711444_BQ.prd

with 17 holes drilled into their bottoms....

I am assuming the black polymer is polypropylene and I did wonder if the
labels from my machine would actually stick to polypropylene?

(they make cheap plant pots at 97p :-) )

given the heat and water in said greenhouse, i was concerned the labels
would simply fall off the buckets.....

SH wrote:

I do have this machine as it happens:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dymo-S08839..._t3_B006QMASNU

given the heat and water in said greenhouse, i was concerned the labels
would simply fall off the buckets.....

They don't make the same specialist tapes for the LetraTag machines,
look for the machines (e.g. LabelManager) that take the D1 tapes up to
24mm wide.

On 21/03/2021 06:57, Andy Burns wrote:
SH wrote:

I do have this machine as it happens:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dymo-S08839..._t3_B006QMASNU

given the heat and water in said greenhouse, i was concerned the
labels would simply fall off the buckets.....

They don't make the same specialist tapes for the LetraTag machines,
look for the machines (e.g. LabelManager) that take the D1 tapes up to
24mm wide.

OR....
If the buckets are in a static position for the year then you could do a
spreadsheet / word type document on the computer detailing each bucket
and its position. This could then be easily updated as required.

"ss" wrote in message
...
On 21/03/2021 06:57, Andy Burns wrote:
SH wrote:

I do have this machine as it happens:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dymo-S08839..._t3_B006QMASNU
given the heat and water in said greenhouse, i was concerned the labels
would simply fall off the buckets.....

They don't make the same specialist tapes for the LetraTag machines, look
for the machines (e.g. LabelManager) that take the D1 tapes up to 24mm
wide.

OR....
If the buckets are in a static position for the year then you could do a
spreadsheet / word type document on the computer detailing each bucket and
its position. This could then be easily updated as required.

With my beer brewing I basically serial number the containers
and keep a database of what each container has in it. Not as
convenient to use as a label on the container itself tho.

On 20/03/2021 20:57, SH wrote:
On 20/03/2021 20:50, williamwright wrote:
On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:

Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed
is and (b) what its birth year was.

Dymo Rhino 4200 Label Printer With QWERTY (UK) Keyboard would be
perfect. I use one for outdoor labels. They don't fade or fall off.

Bill


Thats an interesting thought......

I do have this machine as it happens:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dymo-S08839..._t3_B006QMASNU


The buckets I use are these:

https://www.diy.com/departments/prop...0711444_BQ.prd


with 17 holes drilled into their bottoms....

I am assuming the black polymer is polypropylene and I did wonder if the
labels from my machine would actually stick to polypropylene?

I label polypropolene boxes and there isn't a problem.

Bill

On 20/03/2021 20:50, williamwright wrote:
On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:

Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed
is and (b) what its birth year was.

Dymo Rhino 4200 Label Printer With QWERTY (UK) Keyboard would be
perfect. I use one for outdoor labels. They don't fade or fall off.

Bill

The Brother label makers also work very well.

On 20/03/2021 21:03, S Viemeister wrote:
On 20/03/2021 20:50, williamwright wrote:
On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:

Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed
is and (b) what its birth year was.

Dymo Rhino 4200 Label Printer With QWERTY (UK) Keyboard would be
perfect. I use one for outdoor labels. They don't fade or fall off.

Bill

The Brother label makers also work very well.

Another very durable and robust labelling product is Tulip Slick "fabric
paint". This has the advantage of adhering to uneven surfaces better
than printer tape, also available in black, white, and colours. I use it
for marking the 13A plugs on power tools and computer equipment. Also
"stacking" toolboxes and multi-part containers.

williamwright wrote:

SH wrote:

Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed
is and (b) what its birth year was.

Dymo Rhino 4200 Label Printer With QWERTY (UK) Keyboard would be
perfect. I use one for outdoor labels. They don't fade or fall off.

Where the "normal" D1 tapes do flake off sooner or later (even indoors)
I've had good results from the D1 "permanent" tapes, I see they have new
D1 "durable" tapes, e.g.

https://www.dymo.com/en-GB/d1-permanent-labels-19mm-d1-permanent-labels-3-4-in

Andy Burns wrote:

I see they have new D1 "durable" tapes, e.g.

https://www.dymo.com/en-GB/d1-permanent-labels-19mm-d1-permanent-labels-3-4-in

Sorry wrong link

https://www.dymo.com/en-GB/dymo%C2%AE-d1-durable-labels-%2812mm-x-5-5m%29-d1-durable-labels

On 21/03/2021 06:49, Andy Burns wrote:
williamwright wrote:

SH wrote:

Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed
is and (b) what its birth year was.

Dymo Rhino 4200 Label Printer With QWERTY (UK) Keyboard would be
perfect. I use one for outdoor labels. They don't fade or fall off.

Where the "normal" D1 tapes do flake off sooner or later (even indoors)

Mine don't ever fall off. If fact you can't get the bloody things off
sometimes.

Bill

williamwright wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

Where the "normal" D1 tapes do flake off sooner or later (even indoors)

Mine don't ever fall off. If fact you can't get the bloody things off
sometimes.

Depends whether you use the normal, nylon or polyester labels. When
applied as cable flags, the normal stuff falls off in a few weeks in
data centres, then blows around inside the racks, it does last better
when stuck on a flat surface, so now I make sure to use the nylon or
polyester ones.

On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:


sticky labels will come off easily.

Have you tried the Brother tape labels

Many different models of machines at various price points
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brother-P-T.../dp/B013DG2FNW

many different label colour combinations
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+tape&_sacat=0

I've had these tape labels stick to plastic flower pots very well and
I've only seen fading on labels 10+ years old - but still readable.


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 20/03/2021 21:46, alan_m wrote:

Have you tried the Brother tape labels

Many different models of machines at various price points
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brother-P-T.../dp/B013DG2FNW

many different label colour combinations
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+tape&_sacat=0

I've had these tape labels stick to plastic flower pots very well and
I've only seen fading on labels 10+ years old - but still readable.

We've used those tapes to label the mailbox at the end of the drive -
the labels have lasted longer than the mailboxes. No fading, no peeling.

On 21/03/2021 08:32, S Viemeister wrote:
On 20/03/2021 21:46, alan_m wrote:

Have you tried the Brother tape labels

Many different models of machines at various price points
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brother-P-T.../dp/B013DG2FNW


many different label colour combinations
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+tape&_sacat=0

I've had these tape labels stick to plastic flower pots very well and
I've only seen fading on labels 10+ years old - but still readable.

We've used those tapes to label the mailbox at the end of the drive -
the labels have lasted longer than the mailboxes. No fading, no peeling.


It may depend on the colour of the tape. I've tended to use the
fluorescent yellow background tapes. A white background may be better,
but as I said my faded tape was still readable after 10 years.

As a side issue, I've has the "day-glo" fluorescent paint sold in rattle
cans fade away to almost nothing within two years when exposed outside
to the sun only in the mornings (in shade after approx 11am). The paint
had been further protected by a clear coat.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 21/03/2021 10:36, alan_m wrote:
On 21/03/2021 08:32, S Viemeister wrote:
On 20/03/2021 21:46, alan_m wrote:

Have you tried the Brother tape labels

Many different models of machines at various price points
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brother-P-T.../dp/B013DG2FNW


many different label colour combinations
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+tape&_sacat=0

I've had these tape labels stick to plastic flower pots very well and
I've only seen fading on labels 10+ years old - but still readable.

We've used those tapes to label the mailbox at the end of the drive -
the labels have lasted longer than the mailboxes. No fading, no peeling.


It may depend on the colour of the tape. I've tended to use the
fluorescent yellow background tapes. A white background may be better,
but as I said my faded tape was still readable after 10 years.

As a side issue, I've has the "day-glo" fluorescent paint sold in rattle
cans fade away to almost nothing within two years when exposed outside
to the sun only in the mornings (in shade after approx 11am). The paint
had been further protected by a clear coat.

I've noticed the black on red tape fading outside, but the majority of
labels I make are black on white, white on black, and either black or
white on clear, and none of those have faded, outside or inside.

Red on white is used here to identify certain electrical items, but
that's inside, and they haven't faded.

In message , S Viemeister
writes
On 21/03/2021 10:36, alan_m wrote:
On 21/03/2021 08:32, S Viemeister wrote:
On 20/03/2021 21:46, alan_m wrote:

Have you tried the Brother tape labels

Many different models of machines at various price points

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brother-P-T...Maker/dp/B013D


many different label colour combinations

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...60353.m570.l13
13&_nkw=bother+label+tape&_sacat=0
I've had these tape labels stick to plastic flower pots very well
and I've only seen fading on labels 10+ years old - but still readable.

We've used those tapes to label the mailbox at the end of the drive
- the labels have lasted longer than the mailboxes. No fading, no
peeling.

It may depend on the colour of the tape. I've tended to use the
fluorescent yellow background tapes. A white background may be better,
but as I said my faded tape was still readable after 10 years.
As a side issue, I've has the "day-glo" fluorescent paint sold in
rattle cans fade away to almost nothing within two years when exposed
outside to the sun only in the mornings (in shade after approx 11am).
The paint had been further protected by a clear coat.

I've noticed the black on red tape fading outside, but the majority of
labels I make are black on white, white on black, and either black or
white on clear, and none of those have faded, outside or inside.

Red on white is used here to identify certain electrical items, but
that's inside, and they haven't faded.

Curiously, pencil lasts quite well.

Agreed that the garden centre white markers are inadequate for your job.

--
Tim Lamb

On 21/03/2021 10:36, alan_m wrote:
As a side issue, I've has the "day-glo" fluorescent paint sold in rattle
cans fade away to almost nothing within two years when exposed outside
to the sun only in the mornings (in shade after approx 11am). The paint
had been further protected by a clear coat.

Yes I've had that.

Bill

My mother when she was alive used some kind of thing made by Scotch. Yes
they were glued on but were not dymo, you just prized then off from what you
stuck them on at the end of the year if you wanted to change them, trouble
is I cannot recall what they were called, white on a black background,
looked almost engraved and though you could bend them a little, they were
best on a clean dry flat surface.
I think she inherited it from her place of work when they shut down.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"SH" wrote in message
...
Right...

I grow strawberries in a greenhouse. I use 14 litre builders buckets with
drainage holes drilled into the bottom.

I have 45 said buckets in a greenhouse with an automatic fertigation
system.

Last year I had Elsanta strawberries.

This year I now have 4 varieties, Honoeye, Cambridge gold and Florence as
well as the aforementioned Elsanta as some crop earlier and some crop
later to widen out the harvest season.

Now I also grow new strawberry plants every year from the stolons from the
current plants.


Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed is
and (b) what its birth year was.



sticky labels will come off easily.

permanent marker pens fade in the sunlight.

Those white sticks get easily knocked out out the soil.

I dont mind marking the buckets directly but bear in mind I need to be
able to reuse the bucket once the strawberry plants has been binned when
reaching age 3.

I could drill holes into the rim of the bucket to indicate 1 or 2 or 3
holes for year but what about the breed of the plant? square hole,
triangular hole, slot hole and round hole perhaps? where would one get
such a puncher?

In article ,
Brian Gaff \(Sofa\) wrote:
My mother when she was alive used some kind of thing made by Scotch. Yes
they were glued on but were not dymo, you just prized then off from what
you stuck them on at the end of the year if you wanted to change them,
trouble is I cannot recall what they were called, white on a black
background, looked almost engraved and though you could bend them a
little, they were best on a clean dry flat surface.
I think she inherited it from her place of work when they shut down.
Brian

Traffolite? 3 layer black laminate with the centre white. Etch or engrave
the outer and you got white lettering.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:
Right...

I grow strawberries in a greenhouse. I use 14 litre builders buckets
with drainage holes drilled into the bottom.

I have 45 said buckets in a greenhouse with an automatic fertigation
system.

Last year I had Elsanta strawberries.

This year I now have 4 varieties, Honoeye, Cambridge gold and Florence
as well as the aforementioned Elsanta as some crop earlier and some crop
later to widen out the harvest season.

Now I also grow new strawberry plants every year from the stolons from
the current plants.


Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed is
and (b) what its birth year was.



sticky labels will come off easily.

permanent marker pens fade in the sunlight.

Those white sticks get easily knocked out out the soil.

I dont mind marking the buckets directly but bear in mind I need to be
able to reuse the bucket once the strawberry plants has been binned when
reaching age 3.

I could drill holes into the rim of the bucket to indicate 1 or 2 or 3
holes for year but what about the breed of the plant? square hole,
triangular hole, slot hole and round hole perhaps? where would one get
such a puncher?


Drill holes in rim and thread through coloured tyraps. I'm sure you can
come up with a useful code for a sequence of colours.
Easy/quick/bombproof and replaceable.

On 21/03/2021 08:48, Andy Bennet wrote:



Drill holes in rim and thread through coloured tyraps. I'm sure you can
come up with a useful code for a sequence of colours.
Easy/quick/bombproof and replaceable.

I like that idea! Easy to change label on a given pot.

On 21/03/2021 08:48, Andy Bennet wrote:
On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:
Right...

I grow strawberries in a greenhouse. I use 14 litre builders buckets
with drainage holes drilled into the bottom.

I have 45 said buckets in a greenhouse with an automatic fertigation
system.

Last year I had Elsanta strawberries.

This year I now have 4 varieties, Honoeye, Cambridge gold and Florence
as well as the aforementioned Elsanta as some crop earlier and some
crop later to widen out the harvest season.

Now I also grow new strawberry plants every year from the stolons from
the current plants.


Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed
is and (b) what its birth year was.



sticky labels will come off easily.

permanent marker pens fade in the sunlight.

Those white sticks get easily knocked out out the soil.

I dont mind marking the buckets directly but bear in mind I need to be
able to reuse the bucket once the strawberry plants has been binned
when reaching age 3.

I could drill holes into the rim of the bucket to indicate 1 or 2 or 3
holes for year but what about the breed of the plant? square hole,
triangular hole, slot hole and round hole perhaps? where would one get
such a puncher?


Drill holes in rim and thread through coloured tyraps. I'm sure you can
come up with a useful code for a sequence of colours.
Easy/quick/bombproof and replaceable.

I like that idea.... :-)

1 vs 2 vs 3 drilled holes for year rotation and then white, red, green
and blue for strawberry plant breed.....

On 21/03/2021 23:02, SH wrote:
On 21/03/2021 08:48, Andy Bennet wrote:
On 20/03/2021 20:26, SH wrote:
Right...

I grow strawberries in a greenhouse. I use 14 litre builders buckets
with drainage holes drilled into the bottom.

I have 45 said buckets in a greenhouse with an automatic fertigation
system.

Last year I had Elsanta strawberries.

This year I now have 4 varieties, Honoeye, Cambridge gold and
Florence as well as the aforementioned Elsanta as some crop earlier
and some crop later to widen out the harvest season.

Now I also grow new strawberry plants every year from the stolons
from the current plants.


Now I need a robust labelling system that (a) tells me what the breed
is and (b) what its birth year was.



sticky labels will come off easily.

permanent marker pens fade in the sunlight.

Those white sticks get easily knocked out out the soil.

I dont mind marking the buckets directly but bear in mind I need to
be able to reuse the bucket once the strawberry plants has been
binned when reaching age 3.

I could drill holes into the rim of the bucket to indicate 1 or 2 or
3 holes for year but what about the breed of the plant? square hole,
triangular hole, slot hole and round hole perhaps? where would one
get such a puncher?


Drill holes in rim and thread through coloured tyraps. I'm sure you
can come up with a useful code for a sequence of colours.
Easy/quick/bombproof and replaceable.

I like that idea.... :-)

1 vs 2 vs 3 drilled holes for year rotation and then white, red, green
and blue for strawberry plant breed.....


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sun, 21 Mar 2021 23:02:50 +0000, SH wrote:

I like that idea....

1 vs 2 vs 3 drilled holes for year rotation and then white, red, green
and blue for strawberry plant breed.....

Two holes and coloured cord in each. Ten colours and you have 100
combinations.

Cord: black, brown, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, grey, white.

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wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
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"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 21 Mar 2021 23:02:50 +0000, SH wrote:

I like that idea....

1 vs 2 vs 3 drilled holes for year rotation and then white, red, green
and blue for strawberry plant breed.....

Two holes and coloured cord in each. Ten colours and you have 100
combinations.

Cord: black, brown, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, grey, white.

Or just one hole and 4 colors for the 4 varietys he has.

On 22/03/2021 00:56, Rod Speed wrote:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 21 Mar 2021 23:02:50 +0000, SH wrote:

I like that idea....

1 vs 2 vs 3 drilled holes for year rotation and then white, red, green
and blue for strawberry plant breed.....

Two holes and coloured cord in each. Ten colours and you have 100
combinations.

Cord: black, brown, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, grey,
white.

Or just one hole and 4 colors for the 4 varietys he has.

but I need to indicate how old the strawberry plant is as I discard
after 3 years......

The idea is that with 45 buckets, 15 are 1st year, 15 are 2nd year and
15 are third year......

S.

On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 11:56:41 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


1 vs 2 vs 3 drilled holes for year rotation and then white, red, green
and blue for strawberry plant breed.....

Two holes and coloured cord in each. Ten colours and you have 100
combinations.

Cord: black, brown, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, grey, white.

Or just one hole and 4 colors for the 4 varietys he has.

You'd better worry about that big hole in your head, sociopath! What's this
with your wrong use of the plural that you clearly INSIST on using. That IS
a typical sociopathic thing, sociopath!

--
Website (from 2007) dedicated to the 86-year-old senile Australian
cretin's pathological trolling:
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/

On 21/03/2021 08:48, Andy Bennet wrote:


Drill holes in rim and thread through coloured tyraps. I'm sure you can
come up with a useful code for a sequence of colours.
Easy/quick/bombproof and replaceable.

Many cheap coloured tie wraps/cable ties are not UV stable and will
become brittle within a season.

I have used a variety of substantial cable ties to hold a couple of my
(square) compost bin sides together and have to replace them on a
regular basis. The main fixings on my bins snap out when getting towards
fully loaded and I drilled holes and used cable ties instead. For around
12 months these ties can hold the strain but once exposed to full sun
during a summer they snap. However, I would expect in the OPs case that
cable ties under no stress would survive longer.


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 21/03/2021 08:48, Andy Bennet wrote:


Drill holes in rim and thread through coloured tyraps. I'm sure you can
come up with a useful code for a sequence of colours.
Easy/quick/bombproof and replaceable.

Many cheap coloured tie wraps/cable ties are not UV stable and will become
brittle within a season.

I have used a variety of substantial cable ties to hold a couple of my
(square) compost bin sides together and have to replace them on a regular
basis. The main fixings on my bins snap out when getting towards fully
loaded and I drilled holes and used cable ties instead. For around 12
months these ties can hold the strain but once exposed to full sun during
a summer they snap. However, I would expect in the OPs case that cable
ties under no stress would survive longer.

The things that are used as ties for plastic bags should last
longer because they have a wire inside them. Not as much
color variety tho. Likely colored with texta should last tho.

"Rod Speed" wrote in message
...


"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 21/03/2021 08:48, Andy Bennet wrote:


Drill holes in rim and thread through coloured tyraps. I'm sure you can
come up with a useful code for a sequence of colours.
Easy/quick/bombproof and replaceable.

Many cheap coloured tie wraps/cable ties are not UV stable and will
become brittle within a season.

I have used a variety of substantial cable ties to hold a couple of my
(square) compost bin sides together and have to replace them on a regular
basis. The main fixings on my bins snap out when getting towards fully
loaded and I drilled holes and used cable ties instead. For around 12
months these ties can hold the strain but once exposed to full sun during
a summer they snap. However, I would expect in the OPs case that cable
ties under no stress would survive longer.

The things that are used as ties for plastic bags should last longer
because they have a wire inside them.

The similar stuff that comes in rolls for tying up small plants like
tomatoes etc would be better but again just one color and not
clear how long texta would last on those. Nail varnish maybe.

Not as much color variety tho. Likely colored with texta should last tho.

On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 14:29:01 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


The similar stuff that comes in rolls for tying up small plants like
tomatoes etc would be better but again just one color and not
clear how long texta would last on those. Nail varnish maybe.

Is there nothing in this world you will NOT smartass about, senile smartass?
BG

--
"Who or What is Rod Speed?

Rod Speed is an entirely modern phenomenon. Essentially, Rod Speed
is an insecure and worthless individual who has discovered he can
enhance his own self-esteem in his own eyes by playing "the big, hard
man" on the InterNet."
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/

On Sun, 21 Mar 2021 23:53:53 +0000, alan_m wrote:

On 21/03/2021 08:48, Andy Bennet wrote:


Drill holes in rim and thread through coloured tyraps. I'm sure you can
come up with a useful code for a sequence of colours.
Easy/quick/bombproof and replaceable.

Many cheap coloured tie wraps/cable ties are not UV stable and will
become brittle within a season.

I have used a variety of substantial cable ties to hold a couple of my
(square) compost bin sides together and have to replace them on a
regular basis. The main fixings on my bins snap out when getting towards
fully loaded and I drilled holes and used cable ties instead. For around
12 months these ties can hold the strain but once exposed to full sun
during a summer they snap. However, I would expect in the OPs case that
cable ties under no stress would survive longer.

Showing touching faith/gullibility, I used B&Q's garden tywraps on the
assumption that they'd be OK in sunlight. Lasted about 3 years and fell off,
so not fit for purpose.
I wanted something quite wide, adjustable and removable. Apart from being
f'useless long-term they were ideal.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

In article , PeterC
wrote:
On Sun, 21 Mar 2021 23:53:53 +0000, alan_m wrote:

On 21/03/2021 08:48, Andy Bennet wrote:


Drill holes in rim and thread through coloured tyraps. I'm sure you
can come up with a useful code for a sequence of colours.
Easy/quick/bombproof and replaceable.

Many cheap coloured tie wraps/cable ties are not UV stable and will
become brittle within a season.

I have used a variety of substantial cable ties to hold a couple of my
(square) compost bin sides together and have to replace them on a
regular basis. The main fixings on my bins snap out when getting
towards fully loaded and I drilled holes and used cable ties instead.
For around 12 months these ties can hold the strain but once exposed
to full sun during a summer they snap. However, I would expect in the
OPs case that cable ties under no stress would survive longer.

Showing touching faith/gullibility, I used B&Q's garden tywraps on the
assumption that they'd be OK in sunlight. Lasted about 3 years and fell
off, so not fit for purpose. I wanted something quite wide, adjustable
and removable. Apart from being f'useless long-term they were ideal.

Double sided velcro?

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle