Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will
burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going
and up to temperature quickly.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would
prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small
chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.
In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

Cheers


Dave R

--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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On 11/02/2021 13:34, David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will
burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going
and up to temperature quickly.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would
prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small
chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.

I just use a hand axe for making kindling and hit it more or less with
the right strength to go just through in one or with one tap of wood on
the ground. I accept the odd ground strike onto concrete since it
happens so rarely. I only use kindling for starting the fire since once
it is going I stuff the biggest pieces that will fit in as infrequently
as possible.

In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

Any old offcut of 1+" thick wood or plastic would do at a pinch if you
are worried about blunting your axe. I have a lump that I could use but
normally I don't bother.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 11/02/2021 13:34, David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will
burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going
and up to temperature quickly.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would
prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small
chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.
In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

Cheers


Dave R

You don't want 2 inches of rubber, that will deform and reduce the
effectiveness of your strike. A length of trunk is definitely the best
thing for serious axe work, ideally you want it about 2 feet high. I
bought one direct from my supplier by going to his site in the woods, he
didn't know what to charge so I offered him a tenner and literally had
to force that on him, because he said it was too much. For splitting
kindling with a "chopper" almost anything will do. I'd probably use a
bit of 18mm shuttering ply, maybe two layers for durability.

On 11/02/2021 13:34, David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will
burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going
and up to temperature quickly.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would
prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small
chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.
In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

I just use the hard standing and a bomb

Cheers


Dave R



--
Theres a mighty big difference between good, sound reasons and reasons
that sound good.

Burton Hillis (William Vaughn, American columnist)

On 11/02/2021 15:42, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

I just use the hard standing and a bomb

vertical thinking...

-&-


Wasn't there some machine thing from Aldi that split logs?

--
Adrian C

David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will
burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going
and up to temperature quickly.

If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist.

I never need kindling but do use a couple of those wood fibre wax
impregnated fire lighters. (Like these.
https://www.sherwoodsfirewood.co.uk/...-firelighters/)

I turn the bottom & top draft on and within minutes my fire is blazing
away. Once established I turn off the bottom draft.


My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.


A builders bag isnt going to let air circulate around your logs and
having them sitting in the ground isnt a good idea either.


I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would
prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small
chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.
In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

Buy yourself a chainsaw from Aldi/Lidl, ballistic trousers and other safety
gear from eBay (you can get a whole kit of €œLogger clobber€� in one go), and
with luck youll never need to buy wood again or wonder how to get hold of
a decent log section for chopping on. Dont forget to watch heaps of you
tube videos on chainsaw use. A proper chainsaw course would be best but
you can learn enough to stay safe from the videos as long as you dont get
overly ambitious. I only saw up wood thats been felled and abandoned or
washed up on the beach.

Of course this does depend on your available territory to go foraging.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 11/02/2021 16:43, Tim+ wrote:
David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will
burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going
and up to temperature quickly.

If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist.

You need a couple of pieces to catch quickly and relatively small long
triangular pieces in the initial burn. Sometimes I relight off the
embers at this time of year. Mostly I use long dead branches for this.

I never need kindling but do use a couple of those wood fibre wax
impregnated fire lighters. (Like these.
https://www.sherwoodsfirewood.co.uk/...-firelighters/)

I can't imagine ever buying anything as kindling (apart from newspaper).
The closest I come is air dried citrus fruit peel which does go very
well indeed and is plentiful in mid winter from tangerines.

I turn the bottom & top draft on and within minutes my fire is blazing
away. Once established I turn off the bottom draft.

The only time mine ever gives trouble is when I forget to open the
overnight damper and try to light it with almost no air flow.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

A builders bag isnt going to let air circulate around your logs and
having them sitting in the ground isnt a good idea either.

Mine sit outdoors on a palette to let air under them and a roof on top.
The ones immediately prior to burning live in the garage and they spend
a couple of days warming/drying in the hearth area before being burnt.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 14:07:47 +0000, Chris Hogg wrote:

On 11 Feb 2021 13:34:55 GMT, David wrote:

Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it
will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get
going and up to temperature quickly.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would
prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small
chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.
In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

Cheers


Dave R

A short bit of plank. I used to use a scrap of scaffolding board...

Ah!

I may have just the thing rotting at the bottom of the garden.

Cheers



Dave R



--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 16:43:29 +0000, Tim+ wrote:

David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it
will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get
going and up to temperature quickly.

If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist.

snip loads of stuff unrelated to the question

The wood is very dry and in big chunks.

If I stuff one or two fire lighters in there than it usually goes pretty
quickly.
However I am experimenting on lighting without using fire lighters.

I have noted that big solid blocks of wood are reluctant to burn straight
off (applying a weed burner as a heat source) but that if there are a few
small bits of kindling the whole thing takes off with a vengeance.

I am also considering as noted above that I think it may be more effective
to start with some small pieces to get a good set of embers going then put
the larger pieces on later.

Wood only burns at the surface, so chunky logs burn for a long time but
all that wood in the middle doesn't contribute to the fire for some
considerable time.

So small pieces to start are required.

I have noted that even a few small bits of wood - mere splinters - are
often enough to get the larger bits of wood blazing away merrily. I assume
some kind of wicking effect.

Cheers


Dave R


--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 18:11:09 +0000, David wrote:

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 16:43:29 +0000, Tim+ wrote:

David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it
will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get
going and up to temperature quickly.

If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist.

snip loads of stuff unrelated to the question

The wood is very dry and in big chunks.

If I stuff one or two fire lighters in there than it usually goes pretty
quickly.
However I am experimenting on lighting without using fire lighters.

I have noted that big solid blocks of wood are reluctant to burn
straight off (applying a weed burner as a heat source) but that if there
are a few small bits of kindling the whole thing takes off with a
vengeance.

I am also considering as noted above that I think it may be more
effective to start with some small pieces to get a good set of embers
going then put the larger pieces on later.

Wood only burns at the surface, so chunky logs burn for a long time but
all that wood in the middle doesn't contribute to the fire for some
considerable time.

So small pieces to start are required.

I have noted that even a few small bits of wood - mere splinters - are
often enough to get the larger bits of wood blazing away merrily. I
assume some kind of wicking effect.

Yep, just proved that again.

A few slivers of wood between two large logs and the whole thing bursts
into flame.

Just the two logs and an air gap and it glows but doesn't burn.

So kindling it is.

Cheers


Dave R





--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 11/02/2021 18:19, David wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 18:11:09 +0000, David wrote:

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 16:43:29 +0000, Tim+ wrote:

David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it
will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get
going and up to temperature quickly.

If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist.

snip loads of stuff unrelated to the question

The wood is very dry and in big chunks.

If I stuff one or two fire lighters in there than it usually goes pretty
quickly.
However I am experimenting on lighting without using fire lighters.

I have noted that big solid blocks of wood are reluctant to burn
straight off (applying a weed burner as a heat source) but that if there
are a few small bits of kindling the whole thing takes off with a
vengeance.

I am also considering as noted above that I think it may be more
effective to start with some small pieces to get a good set of embers
going then put the larger pieces on later.

Wood only burns at the surface, so chunky logs burn for a long time but
all that wood in the middle doesn't contribute to the fire for some
considerable time.

So small pieces to start are required.

I have noted that even a few small bits of wood - mere splinters - are
often enough to get the larger bits of wood blazing away merrily. I
assume some kind of wicking effect.

Yep, just proved that again.

A few slivers of wood between two large logs and the whole thing bursts
into flame.

Just the two logs and an air gap and it glows but doesn't burn.

So kindling it is.


when cutting up trees always cut up a few smaller branches and stack
them separately for this precise use



--
€œwhen things get difficult you just have to lie€�

€• Jean Claud Jüncker

On 11/02/2021 16:25, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 11/02/2021 15:42, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

I just use the hard standing and a bomb

vertical thinking...

-&-


Wasn't there some machine thing from Aldi that split logs?

They use screw or hydraulic machines "in the trade", IIRC the Aldi and
other "domestic" machines are considered slow and under-powered.

I havn't tried a bomb; provided you have slices without too many knots I
find a proper splitting axe does the job. (Not a felling axe, which is
what I started with before I knew any better, simply because it was the
only type stocked in my local store).

On 11/02/2021 18:36, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 11/02/2021 18:19, David wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 18:11:09 +0000, David wrote:

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 16:43:29 +0000, Tim+ wrote:

David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it
will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get
going and up to temperature quickly.

If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist.

snip loads of stuff unrelated to the question

The wood is very dry and in big chunks.

If I stuff one or two fire lighters in there than it usually goes pretty
quickly.
However I am experimenting on lighting without using fire lighters.

I have noted that big solid blocks of wood are reluctant to burn
straight off (applying a weed burner as a heat source) but that if there
are a few small bits of kindling the whole thing takes off with a
vengeance.

I am also considering as noted above that I think it may be more
effective to start with some small pieces to get a good set of embers
going then put the larger pieces on later.

Wood only burns at the surface, so chunky logs burn for a long time but
all that wood in the middle doesn't contribute to the fire for some
considerable time.

So small pieces to start are required.

I have noted that even a few small bits of wood - mere splinters - are
often enough to get the larger bits of wood blazing away merrily. I
assume some kind of wicking effect.

Yep, just proved that again.

A few slivers of wood between two large logs and the whole thing bursts
into flame.

Just the two logs and an air gap and it glows but doesn't burn.

So kindling it is.


when cutting up trees always cut up a few smaller branches and stack
them separately for this precise use



+1, but I also save offcuts of studding and batten for just this job;
slice them up with a hatchet on the hearth. And start with a cubic inch
of firelighter.

David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will
burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going
and up to temperature quickly.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would
prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small
chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.
In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

Cheers


Dave R


You can get machines to do that. There are electric splitters.
There are also manual splatters, which use a bottle jack and
pump handles, to generate the force to split the wood. The bottle
jack version has a "limited stroke", meaning the piston only
goes about 6" max, so cannot split a 7" stick to the very end. It
relies on the wood being dry and splitting along grain, so you
might have to pull the pieces apart with your hand when done.
If the wood had a knot in it, the manual splitter would leave
the stick, half-split.

Electric

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AL-KO-LSH-3.../dp/B084X5P1B9

Hand-pumped (take reviews with a grain of salt). Limited stroke using
a bottle jack in disguise. Store in a cool dry place. Don't leave a bottle
jack outdoors all the time or the seals will fail. It's hard to say
how long stuff like this will last. You might end up with the
worlds most expensive firewood when including the price of
this gadget in the budget.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charles-Ben.../dp/B01N1OZUSN

The stroke on the electric one is longer.

The prices are all over the place.

They also make a device, which has a sharper angle
than the previous style of gadget, and you hit the
wood with a sledge and force the wood past a
splitting blade. The principle is bizarre and the
mechanical advantage limited. You're trying to
reproduce the 6 ton or 10 ton force of the other
gadgets, with a sledge. This is also featured, screwed
to a stump for support. I especially appreciate the
picture of a chick with a small hammer in hand, doing
her Mighty Thor routine. Ridiculous. You will work up
a sweat with a gadget like this (not that sweating is
bad, but you're sweating over a relatively poor tool).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mighty-Hand.../dp/B07NQJ8PKG

*******

Various woods at our dump, are more or less appreciated.

They *hate* actual stumps, like the root part, and charge
10X the dumping fee for them. They cannot be sent through
the chipper at the dump, and they bury the damn things in
the landfill section.

Logs up to a certain diameter, are sent through the chipper,
so you are unlikely to snag one of those for free. However,
once the wood dropped off by people gets past that diameter,
you might have an item you can use.

Give the dump a call, describe diameter and length desired, and
see if they know of a "cache" of materials. At our dump, the
"tipping" place and the "storage" place are separated by
a good distance for safety. The storage area is a bit dangerous
because of the uneven surface made from debris. The tipping
place is clean enough to eat off.

Our dump now has a specification for steel toe boots, so you
need a green stamp shoe while on the premises. Although the
enforcement squad don't give a rats ass about this. It's
just the signage on the premises states this. This is a liability
trick (so you can't/won't sue).

Another place to get wood, is the Tree Trimmer companies.
They keep a property in the woods, and store cut down wood
which is too large for their chipper. Now, here at the moment,
we have a problem with an invasive species of insect, so there
are limitations on wood transport. Where you are might be OK.
Their wood cuts might be quite long, and they won't be cutting
them in short lengths like I did when felling a tree. I cut short
lengths, so I could lift them.

One Tree Trimmer service, they actually brought a logging truck
to their work site (a city park) and cut logging company length
pieces and loaded up the truck. These were mature trees, that
had grown with plenty of space around them, but needed to be
taken down for safety. Would make a beautiful stump for working.
Nice straight pieces that would stand upright and not lean at
an angle.

Paul

On 11/02/2021 20:38, newshound wrote:
On 11/02/2021 16:25, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 11/02/2021 15:42, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

I just use the hard standing and a bomb

vertical thinking...

-&-


Wasn't there some machine thing from Aldi that split logs?

They use screw or hydraulic machines "in the trade", IIRC the Aldi and
other "domestic" machines are considered slow and under-powered.

I havn't tried a bomb; provided you have slices without too many knots I
find a proper splitting axe

aka as 'maul'. I've still got the scars from using one near someone's
washing line. It caught the line recoiled, and missed my eye by half an
inch...

https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck...lb-3-6kg/87268

does the job. (Not a felling axe, which is
what I started with before I knew any better, simply because it was the
only type stocked in my local store).

The bomb doesn't need so much space to swing. I use it with a club hammer

https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck...splitter/51334

https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson...lb-2-0kg/9413v

its cheaper too...
....If you have the hammer already

In all cases with gnarly knotty grain forget splitting and use the chainsaw

My open fires will take unsplit logs so that's where THAT lot ends up

I only split for the wood burning stove, or when I don't have enough
kindling


--
€œIt is not the truth of Marxism that explains the willingness of
intellectuals to believe it, but the power that it confers on
intellectuals, in their attempts to control the world. And since...it is
futile to reason someone out of a thing that he was not reasoned into,
we can conclude that Marxism owes its remarkable power to survive every
criticism to the fact that it is not a truth-directed but a
power-directed system of thought.€�
Sir Roger Scruton

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:57:49 -0500, Paul wrote:

David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it
will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get
going and up to temperature quickly.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I
would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting
small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.
In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next
Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

Cheers


Dave R


You can get machines to do that. There are electric splitters.
There are also manual splatters, which use a bottle jack and pump
handles, to generate the force to split the wood. The bottle jack
version has a "limited stroke", meaning the piston only goes about 6"
max, so cannot split a 7" stick to the very end. It relies on the wood
being dry and splitting along grain, so you might have to pull the
pieces apart with your hand when done.
If the wood had a knot in it, the manual splitter would leave the stick,
half-split.

Electric

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AL-KO-LSH-3.../dp/B084X5P1B9

Hand-pumped (take reviews with a grain of salt). Limited stroke using a
bottle jack in disguise. Store in a cool dry place. Don't leave a bottle
jack outdoors all the time or the seals will fail. It's hard to say how
long stuff like this will last. You might end up with the worlds most
expensive firewood when including the price of this gadget in the
budget.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charles-Ben...er-Horizontal/
dp/B01N1OZUSN

The stroke on the electric one is longer.

The prices are all over the place.

They also make a device, which has a sharper angle than the previous
style of gadget, and you hit the wood with a sledge and force the wood
past a splitting blade. The principle is bizarre and the mechanical
advantage limited. You're trying to reproduce the 6 ton or 10 ton force
of the other gadgets, with a sledge. This is also featured, screwed to a
stump for support. I especially appreciate the picture of a chick with a
small hammer in hand, doing her Mighty Thor routine. Ridiculous. You
will work up a sweat with a gadget like this (not that sweating is bad,
but you're sweating over a relatively poor tool).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mighty-Hand...3%82%E2%82%AC%
C2%9D-Dia/dp/B07NQJ8PKG

*******

Various woods at our dump, are more or less appreciated.

They *hate* actual stumps, like the root part, and charge 10X the
dumping fee for them. They cannot be sent through the chipper at the
dump, and they bury the damn things in the landfill section.

Logs up to a certain diameter, are sent through the chipper,
so you are unlikely to snag one of those for free. However,
once the wood dropped off by people gets past that diameter,
you might have an item you can use.

Give the dump a call, describe diameter and length desired, and see if
they know of a "cache" of materials. At our dump, the "tipping" place
and the "storage" place are separated by a good distance for safety. The
storage area is a bit dangerous because of the uneven surface made from
debris. The tipping place is clean enough to eat off.

Our dump now has a specification for steel toe boots, so you need a
green stamp shoe while on the premises. Although the enforcement squad
don't give a rats ass about this. It's just the signage on the premises
states this. This is a liability trick (so you can't/won't sue).

Another place to get wood, is the Tree Trimmer companies.
They keep a property in the woods, and store cut down wood which is too
large for their chipper. Now, here at the moment,
we have a problem with an invasive species of insect, so there are
limitations on wood transport. Where you are might be OK.
Their wood cuts might be quite long, and they won't be cutting them in
short lengths like I did when felling a tree. I cut short lengths, so I
could lift them.

One Tree Trimmer service, they actually brought a logging truck to their
work site (a city park) and cut logging company length pieces and loaded
up the truck. These were mature trees, that had grown with plenty of
space around them, but needed to be taken down for safety. Would make a
beautiful stump for working.
Nice straight pieces that would stand upright and not lean at an angle.

Yebut.

I already have a stock of very dry split logs.

I also have a bomb, wedges, club hammer, maul, felling axe, chainsaw, log
stand.....

I am not asking about splitting full rounds.
That has already been done.

I'm just preparing to split one or two stove sized logs (quarter round)
down into kindling.
All that I am missing at the moment is a base so that when I hit the
splitting axe (hatchet) with the hammer when it is on top of the piece of
wood, if it splits too easily (or I miss-cue) then I wont damage the axe
blade on the block paving.

So for the many posters who have provided enormous details about buying
things I already have, and about going to a lot of effort and expense to
provide a stock of split and seasoned wood which I also already have, can
I respectfully refer you all back to the topic heading:

"Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?"


Cheers



Dave R



--
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--
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On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 20:42:28 +0000, newshound wrote:

On 11/02/2021 18:36, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 11/02/2021 18:19, David wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 18:11:09 +0000, David wrote:

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 16:43:29 +0000, Tim+ wrote:

David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although
it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits
to get going and up to temperature quickly.

If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too
moist.

snip loads of stuff unrelated to the question

The wood is very dry and in big chunks.

If I stuff one or two fire lighters in there than it usually goes
pretty quickly.
However I am experimenting on lighting without using fire lighters.

I have noted that big solid blocks of wood are reluctant to burn
straight off (applying a weed burner as a heat source) but that if
there are a few small bits of kindling the whole thing takes off with
a vengeance.

I am also considering as noted above that I think it may be more
effective to start with some small pieces to get a good set of embers
going then put the larger pieces on later.

Wood only burns at the surface, so chunky logs burn for a long time
but all that wood in the middle doesn't contribute to the fire for
some considerable time.

So small pieces to start are required.

I have noted that even a few small bits of wood - mere splinters -
are often enough to get the larger bits of wood blazing away merrily.
I assume some kind of wicking effect.

Yep, just proved that again.

A few slivers of wood between two large logs and the whole thing
bursts into flame.

Just the two logs and an air gap and it glows but doesn't burn.

So kindling it is.


when cutting up trees always cut up a few smaller branches and stack
them separately for this precise use



+1, but I also save offcuts of studding and batten for just this job;
slice them up with a hatchet on the hearth. And start with a cubic inch
of firelighter.

Respectfully, all the trees that I have cut up in the past, and all the
offcuts, have already gone through the stove.

I don't have access to free wood at the moment nor the inclination to go
and cut, split, and season wood for 2 years.

For the first time in a long while I've just bought a load of split and
dried wood from a reputable local supplier.
Lovely stuff it is too.

It is burning quite happily.

I am trying to light the fire without using a fire lighter, and the
experimenting suggests that a small amount of kindling would make the fire
light a lot more easily.

I also intend to see what happens if I start the fire with a lot of
kindling and get the chimney up to temperature before adding the big logs.

I therefore refer you to the thread title:
"Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?"
which states exactly what I am looking for.


Cheers



Dave R


--
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On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 21:26:16 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 11/02/2021 20:38, newshound wrote:
On 11/02/2021 16:25, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 11/02/2021 15:42, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I
want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

I just use the hard standing and a bomb

vertical thinking...

-&-


Wasn't there some machine thing from Aldi that split logs?

They use screw or hydraulic machines "in the trade", IIRC the Aldi and
other "domestic" machines are considered slow and under-powered.

I havn't tried a bomb; provided you have slices without too many knots
I find a proper splitting axe

aka as 'maul'. I've still got the scars from using one near someone's
washing line. It caught the line recoiled, and missed my eye by half an
inch...

https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck...lb-3-6kg/87268

does the job. (Not a felling axe, which is what I started with before I
knew any better, simply because it was the only type stocked in my
local store).

The bomb doesn't need so much space to swing. I use it with a club
hammer

https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck...ade-4-way-log-
splitter/51334

https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson...club-hammer-4-
lb-2-0kg/9413v

its cheaper too...
...If you have the hammer already

In all cases with gnarly knotty grain forget splitting and use the
chainsaw

My open fires will take unsplit logs so that's where THAT lot ends up

I only split for the wood burning stove, or when I don't have enough
kindling

Yes, I have both a bomb and a maul, as well as a couple of wedges.

I quite like the bomb for splitting logs which are reasonably symmetrical
and the wedges are good for the less symmetrical or after the bomb has
done the first split.

Neither is really suitable for cutting small kindling.
Which is why I use a small axe/hatchet and a club hammer for finer splits.
However one needs to protect the axe blade to avoid damaging it on the
hard standing.

"Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?"

On a side note, IIRC you are supposed to split logs when still fairly
green as they split more easily and also season more quickly when cut/
split.
I have had some difficult bits of wood to split when I've left the wood
for too long and it has gone very hard.

Cheers



Dave R



--
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On 11/02/2021 13:34, David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will
burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going
and up to temperature quickly.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would
prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small
chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.
In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

Probably overkill, but I use a electric / hydraulic log splitter, and
just do a barrow full of kindling from time to time.



--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

On 12/02/2021 12:45, David wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:57:49 -0500, Paul wrote:

David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it
will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get
going and up to temperature quickly.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I
would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting
small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.
In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next
Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

Cheers


Dave R


You can get machines to do that. There are electric splitters.
There are also manual splatters, which use a bottle jack and pump
handles, to generate the force to split the wood. The bottle jack
version has a "limited stroke", meaning the piston only goes about 6"
max, so cannot split a 7" stick to the very end. It relies on the wood
being dry and splitting along grain, so you might have to pull the
pieces apart with your hand when done.
If the wood had a knot in it, the manual splitter would leave the stick,
half-split.

Electric

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AL-KO-LSH-3.../dp/B084X5P1B9

Hand-pumped (take reviews with a grain of salt). Limited stroke using a
bottle jack in disguise. Store in a cool dry place. Don't leave a bottle
jack outdoors all the time or the seals will fail. It's hard to say how
long stuff like this will last. You might end up with the worlds most
expensive firewood when including the price of this gadget in the
budget.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charles-Ben...er-Horizontal/
dp/B01N1OZUSN

The stroke on the electric one is longer.

The prices are all over the place.

They also make a device, which has a sharper angle than the previous
style of gadget, and you hit the wood with a sledge and force the wood
past a splitting blade. The principle is bizarre and the mechanical
advantage limited. You're trying to reproduce the 6 ton or 10 ton force
of the other gadgets, with a sledge. This is also featured, screwed to a
stump for support. I especially appreciate the picture of a chick with a
small hammer in hand, doing her Mighty Thor routine. Ridiculous. You
will work up a sweat with a gadget like this (not that sweating is bad,
but you're sweating over a relatively poor tool).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mighty-Hand...3%82%E2%82%AC%
C2%9D-Dia/dp/B07NQJ8PKG

*******

Various woods at our dump, are more or less appreciated.

They *hate* actual stumps, like the root part, and charge 10X the
dumping fee for them. They cannot be sent through the chipper at the
dump, and they bury the damn things in the landfill section.

Logs up to a certain diameter, are sent through the chipper,
so you are unlikely to snag one of those for free. However,
once the wood dropped off by people gets past that diameter,
you might have an item you can use.

Give the dump a call, describe diameter and length desired, and see if
they know of a "cache" of materials. At our dump, the "tipping" place
and the "storage" place are separated by a good distance for safety. The
storage area is a bit dangerous because of the uneven surface made from
debris. The tipping place is clean enough to eat off.

Our dump now has a specification for steel toe boots, so you need a
green stamp shoe while on the premises. Although the enforcement squad
don't give a rats ass about this. It's just the signage on the premises
states this. This is a liability trick (so you can't/won't sue).

Another place to get wood, is the Tree Trimmer companies.
They keep a property in the woods, and store cut down wood which is too
large for their chipper. Now, here at the moment,
we have a problem with an invasive species of insect, so there are
limitations on wood transport. Where you are might be OK.
Their wood cuts might be quite long, and they won't be cutting them in
short lengths like I did when felling a tree. I cut short lengths, so I
could lift them.

One Tree Trimmer service, they actually brought a logging truck to their
work site (a city park) and cut logging company length pieces and loaded
up the truck. These were mature trees, that had grown with plenty of
space around them, but needed to be taken down for safety. Would make a
beautiful stump for working.
Nice straight pieces that would stand upright and not lean at an angle.

Yebut.

I already have a stock of very dry split logs.

I also have a bomb, wedges, club hammer, maul, felling axe, chainsaw, log
stand.....

I am not asking about splitting full rounds.
That has already been done.

I'm just preparing to split one or two stove sized logs (quarter round)
down into kindling.
All that I am missing at the moment is a base so that when I hit the
splitting axe (hatchet) with the hammer when it is on top of the piece of
wood, if it splits too easily (or I miss-cue) then I wont damage the axe
blade on the block paving.

in 30 years that has NEVER happened to me

So for the many posters who have provided enormous details about buying
things I already have, and about going to a lot of effort and expense to
provide a stock of split and seasoned wood which I also already have, can
I respectfully refer you all back to the topic heading:

"Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?"


Advice to people about to buy an axe protector
"Dont bother"


Cheers



Dave R





--
You can get much farther with a kind word and a gun than you can with a
kind word alone.

Al Capone

On 12/02/2021 12:45, David wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:57:49 -0500, Paul wrote:

David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it
will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get
going and up to temperature quickly.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I
would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting
small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.
In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next
Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

Cheers


Dave R


You can get machines to do that. There are electric splitters.
There are also manual splatters, which use a bottle jack and pump
handles, to generate the force to split the wood. The bottle jack
version has a "limited stroke", meaning the piston only goes about 6"
max, so cannot split a 7" stick to the very end. It relies on the wood
being dry and splitting along grain, so you might have to pull the
pieces apart with your hand when done.
If the wood had a knot in it, the manual splitter would leave the stick,
half-split.

Electric

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AL-KO-LSH-3.../dp/B084X5P1B9

Hand-pumped (take reviews with a grain of salt). Limited stroke using a
bottle jack in disguise. Store in a cool dry place. Don't leave a bottle
jack outdoors all the time or the seals will fail. It's hard to say how
long stuff like this will last. You might end up with the worlds most
expensive firewood when including the price of this gadget in the
budget.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charles-Ben...er-Horizontal/
dp/B01N1OZUSN

The stroke on the electric one is longer.

The prices are all over the place.

They also make a device, which has a sharper angle than the previous
style of gadget, and you hit the wood with a sledge and force the wood
past a splitting blade. The principle is bizarre and the mechanical
advantage limited. You're trying to reproduce the 6 ton or 10 ton force
of the other gadgets, with a sledge. This is also featured, screwed to a
stump for support. I especially appreciate the picture of a chick with a
small hammer in hand, doing her Mighty Thor routine. Ridiculous. You
will work up a sweat with a gadget like this (not that sweating is bad,
but you're sweating over a relatively poor tool).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mighty-Hand...3%82%E2%82%AC%
C2%9D-Dia/dp/B07NQJ8PKG

*******

Various woods at our dump, are more or less appreciated.

They *hate* actual stumps, like the root part, and charge 10X the
dumping fee for them. They cannot be sent through the chipper at the
dump, and they bury the damn things in the landfill section.

Logs up to a certain diameter, are sent through the chipper,
so you are unlikely to snag one of those for free. However,
once the wood dropped off by people gets past that diameter,
you might have an item you can use.

Give the dump a call, describe diameter and length desired, and see if
they know of a "cache" of materials. At our dump, the "tipping" place
and the "storage" place are separated by a good distance for safety. The
storage area is a bit dangerous because of the uneven surface made from
debris. The tipping place is clean enough to eat off.

Our dump now has a specification for steel toe boots, so you need a
green stamp shoe while on the premises. Although the enforcement squad
don't give a rats ass about this. It's just the signage on the premises
states this. This is a liability trick (so you can't/won't sue).

Another place to get wood, is the Tree Trimmer companies.
They keep a property in the woods, and store cut down wood which is too
large for their chipper. Now, here at the moment,
we have a problem with an invasive species of insect, so there are
limitations on wood transport. Where you are might be OK.
Their wood cuts might be quite long, and they won't be cutting them in
short lengths like I did when felling a tree. I cut short lengths, so I
could lift them.

One Tree Trimmer service, they actually brought a logging truck to their
work site (a city park) and cut logging company length pieces and loaded
up the truck. These were mature trees, that had grown with plenty of
space around them, but needed to be taken down for safety. Would make a
beautiful stump for working.
Nice straight pieces that would stand upright and not lean at an angle.

Yebut.

I already have a stock of very dry split logs.

I also have a bomb, wedges, club hammer, maul, felling axe, chainsaw, log
stand.....

I am not asking about splitting full rounds.
That has already been done.

I'm just preparing to split one or two stove sized logs (quarter round)
down into kindling.
All that I am missing at the moment is a base so that when I hit the
splitting axe (hatchet) with the hammer when it is on top of the piece of
wood, if it splits too easily (or I miss-cue) then I wont damage the axe
blade on the block paving.

So for the many posters who have provided enormous details about buying
things I already have, and about going to a lot of effort and expense to
provide a stock of split and seasoned wood which I also already have, can
I respectfully refer you all back to the topic heading:

"Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?"


Cheers



Dave R

Would a Butchers chopping block be a good option?

In message , David
writes

Respectfully, all the trees that I have cut up in the past, and all the
offcuts, have already gone through the stove.

I don't have access to free wood at the moment nor the inclination to go
and cut, split, and season wood for 2 years.

For the first time in a long while I've just bought a load of split and
dried wood from a reputable local supplier.
Lovely stuff it is too.

It is burning quite happily.

I am trying to light the fire without using a fire lighter, and the
experimenting suggests that a small amount of kindling would make the fire
light a lot more easily.

I also intend to see what happens if I start the fire with a lot of
kindling and get the chimney up to temperature before adding the big logs.

Many years ago at a farm auction I was persuaded to bid on a 40' x 20'
chicken shed. Needless to say, nobody else wanted the bother of
dismantling, carting a re-erecting the thing.
Well we got it home but the impetus had gone. The aluminium roofing got
used for other jobs, the extractor fan motors are on my pile to be sold
for scrap, the timber walls have been very useful!

Creosoted tongue and groove pine burn and split very well and have
started innumerable log fires. Small pile of sticks on the log burner
grate. Few seconds with the boss's creme brule torch and then some logs
laid in carefully....

I therefore refer you to the thread title:
"Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?"
which states exactly what I am looking for.

Bit of plywood on the workbench, a hatchet or hand chopper and some
straight grain pallet wood....

--
Tim Lamb

On 11/02/2021 21:26, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 11/02/2021 20:38, newshound wrote:

I havn't tried a bomb; provided you have slices without too many knots
I find a proper splitting axe

aka as 'maul'. I've still got the scars from using one near someone's
washing line. It caught the line recoiled, and missed my eye by half an
inch...

https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck...lb-3-6kg/87268

That is my tool of choice for splitting logs. I also use it on the back
side with a pineapple shaped/bomb log splitter. It is a bit overkill.

I only split for the wood burning stove, or when I don't have enough
kindling

+1

Most of the time I use deadwood branches that drop off my trees after a
period of storage in the dry. But a few small pieces are handy.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

"David" wrote in message
...
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will
burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going
and up to temperature quickly.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would
prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small
chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.
In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

Cheers

Have you got an old kitchen chopping board, either wood or plastic?

--
Regards
wasbit

On 12/02/2021 12:45, David wrote:

Yebut.

I already have a stock of very dry split logs.

I also have a bomb, wedges, club hammer, maul, felling axe, chainsaw, log
stand.....

So, take your chainsaw, and go cut a lump of full round timber from a
tree, and use that as your chopping block.

Ideally make it long enough you can bury one end in the ground, to give
you a plinth you can work at without stooping over.

(a bit of 4x4" fence post would probably do at a pinch)



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 12:28:49 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

On 12/02/2021 12:45, David wrote:

Yebut.

I already have a stock of very dry split logs.

I also have a bomb, wedges, club hammer, maul, felling axe, chainsaw,
log stand.....

So, take your chainsaw, and go cut a lump of full round timber from a
tree, and use that as your chopping block.

Ideally make it long enough you can bury one end in the ground, to give
you a plinth you can work at without stooping over.

(a bit of 4x4" fence post would probably do at a pinch)

Electric chain saw.

No easy access to wood to cut anyway.

Oh, and I need it to work on block paving so no burying.

Overall hassle factor would make it cheaper to but a ready cut trunk with
flat ends (see price in OP).

I was just looking for something very simple which didn't involve going
out to hunt the dead tree.

Also, I could no doubt manufacture something but am up to my neck in can't-
be-arsed at the moment so I was just looking for a simple, cheap, ready
made solution.

Like a block of rubber (my first thought).

I think that relatively thin bits of wood (plank off-cuts or old chopping
boards) would be very likely to split along the grain after only a short
battering.

My main requirements are minimal size, minimal effort to obtain, and
easily stowed out of the way.

As I said earlier my stock of useful off-cuts, wood scraps and the like
went through the fire a year or so back.

The list of what I already have was an attempt to head off the multiple
attempts to persuade me to buy them.

Cheers



Dave R



--
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On 19/02/2021 15:12, David wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 12:28:49 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

On 12/02/2021 12:45, David wrote:

Yebut.

I already have a stock of very dry split logs.

I also have a bomb, wedges, club hammer, maul, felling axe, chainsaw,
log stand.....

So, take your chainsaw, and go cut a lump of full round timber from a
tree, and use that as your chopping block.

Ideally make it long enough you can bury one end in the ground, to give
you a plinth you can work at without stooping over.

(a bit of 4x4" fence post would probably do at a pinch)

Electric chain saw.

Last I checked, they still cut wood! :-)

Oh, and I need it to work on block paving so no burying.

Overall hassle factor would make it cheaper to but a ready cut trunk with
flat ends (see price in OP).

I was just looking for something very simple which didn't involve going
out to hunt the dead tree.

Also, I could no doubt manufacture something but am up to my neck in can't-
be-arsed at the moment so I was just looking for a simple, cheap, ready
made solution.

Buy a length of cheap 6x2 pine or similar, screw togther a few 12" long
cut off sections, and flip it on its side. Use that as a chopping block.
You can stick a foot on one end to keep it stable, Hold your bit of
firewood steady by hand, and chop away with a small axe or wedge and
hammer.

Like a block of rubber (my first thought).

Might just get you a rebound into the face!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 11/02/2021 18:19, David wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 18:11:09 +0000, David wrote:



I

So small pieces to start are required.

I have noted that even a few small bits of wood - mere splinters - are
often enough to get the larger bits of wood blazing away merrily. I
assume some kind of wicking effect.

Yep, just proved that again.

A few slivers of wood between two large logs and the whole thing bursts
into flame.

Just the two logs and an air gap and it glows but doesn't burn.

So kindling it is.


when cutting up trees always cut up a few smaller branches and stack
them separately for this precise use




I get a reasonable sized stick delivered once a day by a passing dog whose
owner takes it for a long walk in nearby woods, started a few years ago so
the sticks get time to dry out before they are needed. Costs me the odd
slice off a carrot occasionally plus the occasional afternoon of looking
after the dog if the owner cant take it somewhere.

GH

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 13:34:55 +0000, David wrote:

Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it
will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get
going and up to temperature quickly.

My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no
longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base.

I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would
prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small
chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer.
In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could
include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter.

A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the
requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy
stowing when not in use.

My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want.

Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome.

Reporting back.

I found the pallet thing which the wood burner was delivered on, hidden
away.
That does the job adequately (shifts around but keeps the axe away from
the hard standing).

The good bit is that splitting the wood down a little further has made a
big difference to the speed that the stove gets up to temperature.
Once the coals are red hot the bigger bits burn well.

I assume the slow starting was due to the ratio of volume to surface area
- not enough surface area for the fire to catch well.
Also (see why wooden beams don't burn as fast as you would expect in a
house fire) the carbonisation of the surface can retard the spread of the
fire.

Anyway, worth doing.

Although it is getting towards the end of the log burning season and the
log pile is quite small now.

Cheers



Dave R


--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

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On 11/03/2021 14:05, David wrote:


Reporting back.

I found the pallet thing which the wood burner was delivered on, hidden
away.
That does the job adequately (shifts around but keeps the axe away from
the hard standing).

The good bit is that splitting the wood down a little further has made a
big difference to the speed that the stove gets up to temperature.
Once the coals are red hot the bigger bits burn well.

I assume the slow starting was due to the ratio of volume to surface area
- not enough surface area for the fire to catch well.
Also (see why wooden beams don't burn as fast as you would expect in a
house fire) the carbonisation of the surface can retard the spread of the
fire.

Anyway, worth doing.

Although it is getting towards the end of the log burning season and the
log pile is quite small now.

Cheers



Dave R


The "area to volume" thing you mention is correct, but the other good
argument for splitting especially if you use timber from logs is that
this gives them a better chance to dry. Most commercial logs are not
dried for very long, and often only in thick sections which dry slowly.

My local logs typically come as cylinders between 4 and 8 inches in
diameter, or sometimes split from bigger rings into pieces typically 6
inches across. I used to split a dustbin full into pieces that were
typically triangles of 3 to 4 inches on each side. I'd stack these up
each side of the woodburner. I'd burn from one side, then refill that
and start burning from the other. That way (after the first load), I was
always burning wood that had been split and in a warm place for a week
or so. This generates significantly more heat than freshly split wood,
because damp wood steals heat by sending water vapour up the chimney.

On 11/03/2021 20:21, newshound wrote:
On 11/03/2021 14:05, David wrote:


Reporting back.

I found the pallet thing which the wood burner was delivered on, hidden
away.
That does the job adequately (shifts around but keeps the axe away from
the hard standing).

I still don't understand your need for this. Do you miss a lot?
Even if you do then any slab of thick wood or plastic ought to do.

The good bit is that splitting the wood down a little further has made a
big difference to the speed that the stove gets up to temperature.
Once the coals are red hot the bigger bits burn well.

Only really needed for starting the fire. I tend to use newspaper dry
bits that drop off my pine tree and dried tangerine peel with a few thin
strips of selected kindling made from corners of logs and any thin ones.

I assume the slow starting was due to the ratio of volume to surface area
- not enough surface area for the fire to catch well.
Also (see why wooden beams don't burn as fast as you would expect in a
house fire) the carbonisation of the surface can retard the spread of the
fire.

It is surprising how resistant to catching bulk wood can be. Edges and
corners will always catch first.

The "area to volume" thing you mention is correct, but the other good
argument for splitting especially if you use timber from logs is that
this gives them a better chance to dry. Most commercial logs are not
dried for very long, and often only in thick sections which dry slowly.

My log supplier seems fairly good at seasoning it, but I still have them
in my under cover log stack for several months prior to burning and in
the inglenook warmed by the fire for a few days after that.

My local logs typically come as cylinders between 4 and 8 inches in
diameter, or sometimes split from bigger rings into pieces typically 6
inches across. I used to split a dustbin full into pieces that were
typically triangles of 3 to 4 inches on each side. I'd stack these up
each side of the woodburner. I'd burn from one side, then refill that
and start burning from the other. That way (after the first load), I was
always burning wood that had been split and in a warm place for a week
or so. This generates significantly more heat than freshly split wood,
because damp wood steals heat by sending water vapour up the chimney.

It is certainly the case that wet wood doesn't burn at all hot. The
drier you can get it prior to putting it in the burner the better.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 13/03/2021 20:10, David wrote:
On Fri, 12 Mar 2021 12:50:16 +0000, Martin Brown wrote:

On 11/03/2021 20:21, newshound wrote:
On 11/03/2021 14:05, David wrote:


Reporting back.

I found the pallet thing which the wood burner was delivered on,
hidden away.
That does the job adequately (shifts around but keeps the axe away
from the hard standing).

I still don't understand your need for this. Do you miss a lot?
Even if you do then any slab of thick wood or plastic ought to do.
snip

I use a hatchet and a club hammer to split wood.
This is generally very effective.
However now and then a piece of wood splits far more easily than expected
and the hatchet flies through the wood and towards the ground.

You should be able to pull the blow if it goes so easily. I just use an
axe for kindling and a damn big one for serious work of bigger logs. The
biggest ones use a log exploder. It isn't very sharp at all.

Having something between block paving and the blade avoids damaging the
blade of the hatchet.

Not complicated, really.

No it isn't. If you can judge how hard to hit it.

If you look back, I started out searching for an off-the-shelf slab of
{something}.

Not having a slab of plastic or thick wood to hand.

Learning to use an axe properly might be a better approach.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Sun, 14 Mar 2021 09:28:18 +0000, Martin Brown wrote:

On 13/03/2021 20:10, David wrote:
On Fri, 12 Mar 2021 12:50:16 +0000, Martin Brown wrote:

On 11/03/2021 20:21, newshound wrote:
On 11/03/2021 14:05, David wrote:


Reporting back.

I found the pallet thing which the wood burner was delivered on,
hidden away.
That does the job adequately (shifts around but keeps the axe away
from the hard standing).

I still don't understand your need for this. Do you miss a lot? Even
if you do then any slab of thick wood or plastic ought to do.
snip

I use a hatchet and a club hammer to split wood.
This is generally very effective.
However now and then a piece of wood splits far more easily than
expected and the hatchet flies through the wood and towards the ground.

You should be able to pull the blow if it goes so easily. I just use an
axe for kindling and a damn big one for serious work of bigger logs. The
biggest ones use a log exploder. It isn't very sharp at all.

Having something between block paving and the blade avoids damaging the
blade of the hatchet.

Not complicated, really.

No it isn't. If you can judge how hard to hit it.

If you look back, I started out searching for an off-the-shelf slab of
{something}.

Not having a slab of plastic or thick wood to hand.

Learning to use an axe properly might be a better approach.

Ah!
The Apple approach.
I'm obviously (holding) doing it wrong.

Assume that I have assessed the risk and have chosen a mitigation that I
feel is appropriate.

Learning that your chosen way of doing things isn't always the best for
everyone else might be a better approach.

Cheers


Dave R



--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

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On 11/03/2021 20:21, newshound wrote:
because damp wood steals heat by sending water vapour up the chimney

Yeah, but drying damp wood in your house also steals the heat...

(today cursing my log supplier. I stacked them in the garage, I thought
they were a bit damp. Today I moved them to the new log store, and found
that the ply wall of the garage was mouldy. The meter says it is 23%
moisture )

Andy