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Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will
burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/02/2021 13:34, David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. I just use a hand axe for making kindling and hit it more or less with the right strength to go just through in one or with one tap of wood on the ground. I accept the odd ground strike onto concrete since it happens so rarely. I only use kindling for starting the fire since once it is going I stuff the biggest pieces that will fit in as infrequently as possible. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. Any old offcut of 1+" thick wood or plastic would do at a pinch if you are worried about blunting your axe. I have a lump that I could use but normally I don't bother. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/02/2021 13:34, David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. Cheers Dave R You don't want 2 inches of rubber, that will deform and reduce the effectiveness of your strike. A length of trunk is definitely the best thing for serious axe work, ideally you want it about 2 feet high. I bought one direct from my supplier by going to his site in the woods, he didn't know what to charge so I offered him a tenner and literally had to force that on him, because he said it was too much. For splitting kindling with a "chopper" almost anything will do. I'd probably use a bit of 18mm shuttering ply, maybe two layers for durability. |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/02/2021 13:34, David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. I just use the hard standing and a bomb Cheers Dave R -- Theres a mighty big difference between good, sound reasons and reasons that sound good. Burton Hillis (William Vaughn, American columnist) |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/02/2021 15:42, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. I just use the hard standing and a bomb vertical thinking... -&- Wasn't there some machine thing from Aldi that split logs? -- Adrian C |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist. I never need kindling but do use a couple of those wood fibre wax impregnated fire lighters. (Like these. https://www.sherwoodsfirewood.co.uk/...-firelighters/) I turn the bottom & top draft on and within minutes my fire is blazing away. Once established I turn off the bottom draft. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. A builders bag isnt going to let air circulate around your logs and having them sitting in the ground isnt a good idea either. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. Buy yourself a chainsaw from Aldi/Lidl, ballistic trousers and other safety gear from eBay (you can get a whole kit of Logger clobber in one go), and with luck youll never need to buy wood again or wonder how to get hold of a decent log section for chopping on. Dont forget to watch heaps of you tube videos on chainsaw use. A proper chainsaw course would be best but you can learn enough to stay safe from the videos as long as you dont get overly ambitious. I only saw up wood thats been felled and abandoned or washed up on the beach. Of course this does depend on your available territory to go foraging. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/02/2021 16:43, Tim+ wrote:
David wrote: Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist. You need a couple of pieces to catch quickly and relatively small long triangular pieces in the initial burn. Sometimes I relight off the embers at this time of year. Mostly I use long dead branches for this. I never need kindling but do use a couple of those wood fibre wax impregnated fire lighters. (Like these. https://www.sherwoodsfirewood.co.uk/...-firelighters/) I can't imagine ever buying anything as kindling (apart from newspaper). The closest I come is air dried citrus fruit peel which does go very well indeed and is plentiful in mid winter from tangerines. I turn the bottom & top draft on and within minutes my fire is blazing away. Once established I turn off the bottom draft. The only time mine ever gives trouble is when I forget to open the overnight damper and try to light it with almost no air flow. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. A builders bag isnt going to let air circulate around your logs and having them sitting in the ground isnt a good idea either. Mine sit outdoors on a palette to let air under them and a roof on top. The ones immediately prior to burning live in the garage and they spend a couple of days warming/drying in the hearth area before being burnt. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 14:07:47 +0000, Chris Hogg wrote:
On 11 Feb 2021 13:34:55 GMT, David wrote: Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. Cheers Dave R A short bit of plank. I used to use a scrap of scaffolding board... Ah! I may have just the thing rotting at the bottom of the garden. Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 16:43:29 +0000, Tim+ wrote:
David wrote: Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist. snip loads of stuff unrelated to the question The wood is very dry and in big chunks. If I stuff one or two fire lighters in there than it usually goes pretty quickly. However I am experimenting on lighting without using fire lighters. I have noted that big solid blocks of wood are reluctant to burn straight off (applying a weed burner as a heat source) but that if there are a few small bits of kindling the whole thing takes off with a vengeance. I am also considering as noted above that I think it may be more effective to start with some small pieces to get a good set of embers going then put the larger pieces on later. Wood only burns at the surface, so chunky logs burn for a long time but all that wood in the middle doesn't contribute to the fire for some considerable time. So small pieces to start are required. I have noted that even a few small bits of wood - mere splinters - are often enough to get the larger bits of wood blazing away merrily. I assume some kind of wicking effect. Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 18:11:09 +0000, David wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 16:43:29 +0000, Tim+ wrote: David wrote: Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist. snip loads of stuff unrelated to the question The wood is very dry and in big chunks. If I stuff one or two fire lighters in there than it usually goes pretty quickly. However I am experimenting on lighting without using fire lighters. I have noted that big solid blocks of wood are reluctant to burn straight off (applying a weed burner as a heat source) but that if there are a few small bits of kindling the whole thing takes off with a vengeance. I am also considering as noted above that I think it may be more effective to start with some small pieces to get a good set of embers going then put the larger pieces on later. Wood only burns at the surface, so chunky logs burn for a long time but all that wood in the middle doesn't contribute to the fire for some considerable time. So small pieces to start are required. I have noted that even a few small bits of wood - mere splinters - are often enough to get the larger bits of wood blazing away merrily. I assume some kind of wicking effect. Yep, just proved that again. A few slivers of wood between two large logs and the whole thing bursts into flame. Just the two logs and an air gap and it glows but doesn't burn. So kindling it is. Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/02/2021 18:19, David wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 18:11:09 +0000, David wrote: On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 16:43:29 +0000, Tim+ wrote: David wrote: Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist. snip loads of stuff unrelated to the question The wood is very dry and in big chunks. If I stuff one or two fire lighters in there than it usually goes pretty quickly. However I am experimenting on lighting without using fire lighters. I have noted that big solid blocks of wood are reluctant to burn straight off (applying a weed burner as a heat source) but that if there are a few small bits of kindling the whole thing takes off with a vengeance. I am also considering as noted above that I think it may be more effective to start with some small pieces to get a good set of embers going then put the larger pieces on later. Wood only burns at the surface, so chunky logs burn for a long time but all that wood in the middle doesn't contribute to the fire for some considerable time. So small pieces to start are required. I have noted that even a few small bits of wood - mere splinters - are often enough to get the larger bits of wood blazing away merrily. I assume some kind of wicking effect. Yep, just proved that again. A few slivers of wood between two large logs and the whole thing bursts into flame. Just the two logs and an air gap and it glows but doesn't burn. So kindling it is. when cutting up trees always cut up a few smaller branches and stack them separately for this precise use -- when things get difficult you just have to lie Jean Claud Jüncker |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/02/2021 16:25, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 11/02/2021 15:42, The Natural Philosopher wrote: My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. I just use the hard standing and a bomb vertical thinking... -&- Wasn't there some machine thing from Aldi that split logs? They use screw or hydraulic machines "in the trade", IIRC the Aldi and other "domestic" machines are considered slow and under-powered. I havn't tried a bomb; provided you have slices without too many knots I find a proper splitting axe does the job. (Not a felling axe, which is what I started with before I knew any better, simply because it was the only type stocked in my local store). |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/02/2021 18:36, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 11/02/2021 18:19, David wrote: On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 18:11:09 +0000, David wrote: On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 16:43:29 +0000, Tim+ wrote: David wrote: Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist. snip loads of stuff unrelated to the question The wood is very dry and in big chunks. If I stuff one or two fire lighters in there than it usually goes pretty quickly. However I am experimenting on lighting without using fire lighters. I have noted that big solid blocks of wood are reluctant to burn straight off (applying a weed burner as a heat source) but that if there are a few small bits of kindling the whole thing takes off with a vengeance. I am also considering as noted above that I think it may be more effective to start with some small pieces to get a good set of embers going then put the larger pieces on later. Wood only burns at the surface, so chunky logs burn for a long time but all that wood in the middle doesn't contribute to the fire for some considerable time. So small pieces to start are required. I have noted that even a few small bits of wood - mere splinters - are often enough to get the larger bits of wood blazing away merrily. I assume some kind of wicking effect. Yep, just proved that again. A few slivers of wood between two large logs and the whole thing bursts into flame. Just the two logs and an air gap and it glows but doesn't burn. So kindling it is. when cutting up trees always cut up a few smaller branches and stack them separately for this precise use +1, but I also save offcuts of studding and batten for just this job; slice them up with a hatchet on the hearth. And start with a cubic inch of firelighter. |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. Cheers Dave R You can get machines to do that. There are electric splitters. There are also manual splatters, which use a bottle jack and pump handles, to generate the force to split the wood. The bottle jack version has a "limited stroke", meaning the piston only goes about 6" max, so cannot split a 7" stick to the very end. It relies on the wood being dry and splitting along grain, so you might have to pull the pieces apart with your hand when done. If the wood had a knot in it, the manual splitter would leave the stick, half-split. Electric https://www.amazon.co.uk/AL-KO-LSH-3.../dp/B084X5P1B9 Hand-pumped (take reviews with a grain of salt). Limited stroke using a bottle jack in disguise. Store in a cool dry place. Don't leave a bottle jack outdoors all the time or the seals will fail. It's hard to say how long stuff like this will last. You might end up with the worlds most expensive firewood when including the price of this gadget in the budget. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charles-Ben.../dp/B01N1OZUSN The stroke on the electric one is longer. The prices are all over the place. They also make a device, which has a sharper angle than the previous style of gadget, and you hit the wood with a sledge and force the wood past a splitting blade. The principle is bizarre and the mechanical advantage limited. You're trying to reproduce the 6 ton or 10 ton force of the other gadgets, with a sledge. This is also featured, screwed to a stump for support. I especially appreciate the picture of a chick with a small hammer in hand, doing her Mighty Thor routine. Ridiculous. You will work up a sweat with a gadget like this (not that sweating is bad, but you're sweating over a relatively poor tool). https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mighty-Hand.../dp/B07NQJ8PKG ******* Various woods at our dump, are more or less appreciated. They *hate* actual stumps, like the root part, and charge 10X the dumping fee for them. They cannot be sent through the chipper at the dump, and they bury the damn things in the landfill section. Logs up to a certain diameter, are sent through the chipper, so you are unlikely to snag one of those for free. However, once the wood dropped off by people gets past that diameter, you might have an item you can use. Give the dump a call, describe diameter and length desired, and see if they know of a "cache" of materials. At our dump, the "tipping" place and the "storage" place are separated by a good distance for safety. The storage area is a bit dangerous because of the uneven surface made from debris. The tipping place is clean enough to eat off. Our dump now has a specification for steel toe boots, so you need a green stamp shoe while on the premises. Although the enforcement squad don't give a rats ass about this. It's just the signage on the premises states this. This is a liability trick (so you can't/won't sue). Another place to get wood, is the Tree Trimmer companies. They keep a property in the woods, and store cut down wood which is too large for their chipper. Now, here at the moment, we have a problem with an invasive species of insect, so there are limitations on wood transport. Where you are might be OK. Their wood cuts might be quite long, and they won't be cutting them in short lengths like I did when felling a tree. I cut short lengths, so I could lift them. One Tree Trimmer service, they actually brought a logging truck to their work site (a city park) and cut logging company length pieces and loaded up the truck. These were mature trees, that had grown with plenty of space around them, but needed to be taken down for safety. Would make a beautiful stump for working. Nice straight pieces that would stand upright and not lean at an angle. Paul |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/02/2021 20:38, newshound wrote:
On 11/02/2021 16:25, Adrian Caspersz wrote: On 11/02/2021 15:42, The Natural Philosopher wrote: My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. I just use the hard standing and a bomb vertical thinking... -&- Wasn't there some machine thing from Aldi that split logs? They use screw or hydraulic machines "in the trade", IIRC the Aldi and other "domestic" machines are considered slow and under-powered. I havn't tried a bomb; provided you have slices without too many knots I find a proper splitting axe aka as 'maul'. I've still got the scars from using one near someone's washing line. It caught the line recoiled, and missed my eye by half an inch... https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck...lb-3-6kg/87268 does the job. (Not a felling axe, which is what I started with before I knew any better, simply because it was the only type stocked in my local store). The bomb doesn't need so much space to swing. I use it with a club hammer https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck...splitter/51334 https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson...lb-2-0kg/9413v its cheaper too... ....If you have the hammer already In all cases with gnarly knotty grain forget splitting and use the chainsaw My open fires will take unsplit logs so that's where THAT lot ends up I only split for the wood burning stove, or when I don't have enough kindling -- It is not the truth of Marxism that explains the willingness of intellectuals to believe it, but the power that it confers on intellectuals, in their attempts to control the world. And since...it is futile to reason someone out of a thing that he was not reasoned into, we can conclude that Marxism owes its remarkable power to survive every criticism to the fact that it is not a truth-directed but a power-directed system of thought. Sir Roger Scruton |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:57:49 -0500, Paul wrote:
David wrote: Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. Cheers Dave R You can get machines to do that. There are electric splitters. There are also manual splatters, which use a bottle jack and pump handles, to generate the force to split the wood. The bottle jack version has a "limited stroke", meaning the piston only goes about 6" max, so cannot split a 7" stick to the very end. It relies on the wood being dry and splitting along grain, so you might have to pull the pieces apart with your hand when done. If the wood had a knot in it, the manual splitter would leave the stick, half-split. Electric https://www.amazon.co.uk/AL-KO-LSH-3.../dp/B084X5P1B9 Hand-pumped (take reviews with a grain of salt). Limited stroke using a bottle jack in disguise. Store in a cool dry place. Don't leave a bottle jack outdoors all the time or the seals will fail. It's hard to say how long stuff like this will last. You might end up with the worlds most expensive firewood when including the price of this gadget in the budget. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charles-Ben...er-Horizontal/ dp/B01N1OZUSN The stroke on the electric one is longer. The prices are all over the place. They also make a device, which has a sharper angle than the previous style of gadget, and you hit the wood with a sledge and force the wood past a splitting blade. The principle is bizarre and the mechanical advantage limited. You're trying to reproduce the 6 ton or 10 ton force of the other gadgets, with a sledge. This is also featured, screwed to a stump for support. I especially appreciate the picture of a chick with a small hammer in hand, doing her Mighty Thor routine. Ridiculous. You will work up a sweat with a gadget like this (not that sweating is bad, but you're sweating over a relatively poor tool). https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mighty-Hand...3%82%E2%82%AC% C2%9D-Dia/dp/B07NQJ8PKG ******* Various woods at our dump, are more or less appreciated. They *hate* actual stumps, like the root part, and charge 10X the dumping fee for them. They cannot be sent through the chipper at the dump, and they bury the damn things in the landfill section. Logs up to a certain diameter, are sent through the chipper, so you are unlikely to snag one of those for free. However, once the wood dropped off by people gets past that diameter, you might have an item you can use. Give the dump a call, describe diameter and length desired, and see if they know of a "cache" of materials. At our dump, the "tipping" place and the "storage" place are separated by a good distance for safety. The storage area is a bit dangerous because of the uneven surface made from debris. The tipping place is clean enough to eat off. Our dump now has a specification for steel toe boots, so you need a green stamp shoe while on the premises. Although the enforcement squad don't give a rats ass about this. It's just the signage on the premises states this. This is a liability trick (so you can't/won't sue). Another place to get wood, is the Tree Trimmer companies. They keep a property in the woods, and store cut down wood which is too large for their chipper. Now, here at the moment, we have a problem with an invasive species of insect, so there are limitations on wood transport. Where you are might be OK. Their wood cuts might be quite long, and they won't be cutting them in short lengths like I did when felling a tree. I cut short lengths, so I could lift them. One Tree Trimmer service, they actually brought a logging truck to their work site (a city park) and cut logging company length pieces and loaded up the truck. These were mature trees, that had grown with plenty of space around them, but needed to be taken down for safety. Would make a beautiful stump for working. Nice straight pieces that would stand upright and not lean at an angle. Yebut. I already have a stock of very dry split logs. I also have a bomb, wedges, club hammer, maul, felling axe, chainsaw, log stand..... I am not asking about splitting full rounds. That has already been done. I'm just preparing to split one or two stove sized logs (quarter round) down into kindling. All that I am missing at the moment is a base so that when I hit the splitting axe (hatchet) with the hammer when it is on top of the piece of wood, if it splits too easily (or I miss-cue) then I wont damage the axe blade on the block paving. So for the many posters who have provided enormous details about buying things I already have, and about going to a lot of effort and expense to provide a stock of split and seasoned wood which I also already have, can I respectfully refer you all back to the topic heading: "Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?" Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 20:42:28 +0000, newshound wrote:
On 11/02/2021 18:36, The Natural Philosopher wrote: On 11/02/2021 18:19, David wrote: On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 18:11:09 +0000, David wrote: On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 16:43:29 +0000, Tim+ wrote: David wrote: Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. If youre needing kindling it may well be that your logs are too moist. snip loads of stuff unrelated to the question The wood is very dry and in big chunks. If I stuff one or two fire lighters in there than it usually goes pretty quickly. However I am experimenting on lighting without using fire lighters. I have noted that big solid blocks of wood are reluctant to burn straight off (applying a weed burner as a heat source) but that if there are a few small bits of kindling the whole thing takes off with a vengeance. I am also considering as noted above that I think it may be more effective to start with some small pieces to get a good set of embers going then put the larger pieces on later. Wood only burns at the surface, so chunky logs burn for a long time but all that wood in the middle doesn't contribute to the fire for some considerable time. So small pieces to start are required. I have noted that even a few small bits of wood - mere splinters - are often enough to get the larger bits of wood blazing away merrily. I assume some kind of wicking effect. Yep, just proved that again. A few slivers of wood between two large logs and the whole thing bursts into flame. Just the two logs and an air gap and it glows but doesn't burn. So kindling it is. when cutting up trees always cut up a few smaller branches and stack them separately for this precise use +1, but I also save offcuts of studding and batten for just this job; slice them up with a hatchet on the hearth. And start with a cubic inch of firelighter. Respectfully, all the trees that I have cut up in the past, and all the offcuts, have already gone through the stove. I don't have access to free wood at the moment nor the inclination to go and cut, split, and season wood for 2 years. For the first time in a long while I've just bought a load of split and dried wood from a reputable local supplier. Lovely stuff it is too. It is burning quite happily. I am trying to light the fire without using a fire lighter, and the experimenting suggests that a small amount of kindling would make the fire light a lot more easily. I also intend to see what happens if I start the fire with a lot of kindling and get the chimney up to temperature before adding the big logs. I therefore refer you to the thread title: "Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?" which states exactly what I am looking for. Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 21:26:16 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 11/02/2021 20:38, newshound wrote: On 11/02/2021 16:25, Adrian Caspersz wrote: On 11/02/2021 15:42, The Natural Philosopher wrote: My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. I just use the hard standing and a bomb vertical thinking... -&- Wasn't there some machine thing from Aldi that split logs? They use screw or hydraulic machines "in the trade", IIRC the Aldi and other "domestic" machines are considered slow and under-powered. I havn't tried a bomb; provided you have slices without too many knots I find a proper splitting axe aka as 'maul'. I've still got the scars from using one near someone's washing line. It caught the line recoiled, and missed my eye by half an inch... https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck...lb-3-6kg/87268 does the job. (Not a felling axe, which is what I started with before I knew any better, simply because it was the only type stocked in my local store). The bomb doesn't need so much space to swing. I use it with a club hammer https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck...ade-4-way-log- splitter/51334 https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson...club-hammer-4- lb-2-0kg/9413v its cheaper too... ...If you have the hammer already In all cases with gnarly knotty grain forget splitting and use the chainsaw My open fires will take unsplit logs so that's where THAT lot ends up I only split for the wood burning stove, or when I don't have enough kindling Yes, I have both a bomb and a maul, as well as a couple of wedges. I quite like the bomb for splitting logs which are reasonably symmetrical and the wedges are good for the less symmetrical or after the bomb has done the first split. Neither is really suitable for cutting small kindling. Which is why I use a small axe/hatchet and a club hammer for finer splits. However one needs to protect the axe blade to avoid damaging it on the hard standing. "Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?" On a side note, IIRC you are supposed to split logs when still fairly green as they split more easily and also season more quickly when cut/ split. I have had some difficult bits of wood to split when I've left the wood for too long and it has gone very hard. Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/02/2021 13:34, David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. Probably overkill, but I use a electric / hydraulic log splitter, and just do a barrow full of kindling from time to time. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 12/02/2021 12:45, David wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:57:49 -0500, Paul wrote: David wrote: Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. Cheers Dave R You can get machines to do that. There are electric splitters. There are also manual splatters, which use a bottle jack and pump handles, to generate the force to split the wood. The bottle jack version has a "limited stroke", meaning the piston only goes about 6" max, so cannot split a 7" stick to the very end. It relies on the wood being dry and splitting along grain, so you might have to pull the pieces apart with your hand when done. If the wood had a knot in it, the manual splitter would leave the stick, half-split. Electric https://www.amazon.co.uk/AL-KO-LSH-3.../dp/B084X5P1B9 Hand-pumped (take reviews with a grain of salt). Limited stroke using a bottle jack in disguise. Store in a cool dry place. Don't leave a bottle jack outdoors all the time or the seals will fail. It's hard to say how long stuff like this will last. You might end up with the worlds most expensive firewood when including the price of this gadget in the budget. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charles-Ben...er-Horizontal/ dp/B01N1OZUSN The stroke on the electric one is longer. The prices are all over the place. They also make a device, which has a sharper angle than the previous style of gadget, and you hit the wood with a sledge and force the wood past a splitting blade. The principle is bizarre and the mechanical advantage limited. You're trying to reproduce the 6 ton or 10 ton force of the other gadgets, with a sledge. This is also featured, screwed to a stump for support. I especially appreciate the picture of a chick with a small hammer in hand, doing her Mighty Thor routine. Ridiculous. You will work up a sweat with a gadget like this (not that sweating is bad, but you're sweating over a relatively poor tool). https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mighty-Hand...3%82%E2%82%AC% C2%9D-Dia/dp/B07NQJ8PKG ******* Various woods at our dump, are more or less appreciated. They *hate* actual stumps, like the root part, and charge 10X the dumping fee for them. They cannot be sent through the chipper at the dump, and they bury the damn things in the landfill section. Logs up to a certain diameter, are sent through the chipper, so you are unlikely to snag one of those for free. However, once the wood dropped off by people gets past that diameter, you might have an item you can use. Give the dump a call, describe diameter and length desired, and see if they know of a "cache" of materials. At our dump, the "tipping" place and the "storage" place are separated by a good distance for safety. The storage area is a bit dangerous because of the uneven surface made from debris. The tipping place is clean enough to eat off. Our dump now has a specification for steel toe boots, so you need a green stamp shoe while on the premises. Although the enforcement squad don't give a rats ass about this. It's just the signage on the premises states this. This is a liability trick (so you can't/won't sue). Another place to get wood, is the Tree Trimmer companies. They keep a property in the woods, and store cut down wood which is too large for their chipper. Now, here at the moment, we have a problem with an invasive species of insect, so there are limitations on wood transport. Where you are might be OK. Their wood cuts might be quite long, and they won't be cutting them in short lengths like I did when felling a tree. I cut short lengths, so I could lift them. One Tree Trimmer service, they actually brought a logging truck to their work site (a city park) and cut logging company length pieces and loaded up the truck. These were mature trees, that had grown with plenty of space around them, but needed to be taken down for safety. Would make a beautiful stump for working. Nice straight pieces that would stand upright and not lean at an angle. Yebut. I already have a stock of very dry split logs. I also have a bomb, wedges, club hammer, maul, felling axe, chainsaw, log stand..... I am not asking about splitting full rounds. That has already been done. I'm just preparing to split one or two stove sized logs (quarter round) down into kindling. All that I am missing at the moment is a base so that when I hit the splitting axe (hatchet) with the hammer when it is on top of the piece of wood, if it splits too easily (or I miss-cue) then I wont damage the axe blade on the block paving. in 30 years that has NEVER happened to me So for the many posters who have provided enormous details about buying things I already have, and about going to a lot of effort and expense to provide a stock of split and seasoned wood which I also already have, can I respectfully refer you all back to the topic heading: "Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?" Advice to people about to buy an axe protector "Dont bother" Cheers Dave R -- You can get much farther with a kind word and a gun than you can with a kind word alone. Al Capone |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 12/02/2021 12:45, David wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:57:49 -0500, Paul wrote: David wrote: Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. Cheers Dave R You can get machines to do that. There are electric splitters. There are also manual splatters, which use a bottle jack and pump handles, to generate the force to split the wood. The bottle jack version has a "limited stroke", meaning the piston only goes about 6" max, so cannot split a 7" stick to the very end. It relies on the wood being dry and splitting along grain, so you might have to pull the pieces apart with your hand when done. If the wood had a knot in it, the manual splitter would leave the stick, half-split. Electric https://www.amazon.co.uk/AL-KO-LSH-3.../dp/B084X5P1B9 Hand-pumped (take reviews with a grain of salt). Limited stroke using a bottle jack in disguise. Store in a cool dry place. Don't leave a bottle jack outdoors all the time or the seals will fail. It's hard to say how long stuff like this will last. You might end up with the worlds most expensive firewood when including the price of this gadget in the budget. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charles-Ben...er-Horizontal/ dp/B01N1OZUSN The stroke on the electric one is longer. The prices are all over the place. They also make a device, which has a sharper angle than the previous style of gadget, and you hit the wood with a sledge and force the wood past a splitting blade. The principle is bizarre and the mechanical advantage limited. You're trying to reproduce the 6 ton or 10 ton force of the other gadgets, with a sledge. This is also featured, screwed to a stump for support. I especially appreciate the picture of a chick with a small hammer in hand, doing her Mighty Thor routine. Ridiculous. You will work up a sweat with a gadget like this (not that sweating is bad, but you're sweating over a relatively poor tool). https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mighty-Hand...3%82%E2%82%AC% C2%9D-Dia/dp/B07NQJ8PKG ******* Various woods at our dump, are more or less appreciated. They *hate* actual stumps, like the root part, and charge 10X the dumping fee for them. They cannot be sent through the chipper at the dump, and they bury the damn things in the landfill section. Logs up to a certain diameter, are sent through the chipper, so you are unlikely to snag one of those for free. However, once the wood dropped off by people gets past that diameter, you might have an item you can use. Give the dump a call, describe diameter and length desired, and see if they know of a "cache" of materials. At our dump, the "tipping" place and the "storage" place are separated by a good distance for safety. The storage area is a bit dangerous because of the uneven surface made from debris. The tipping place is clean enough to eat off. Our dump now has a specification for steel toe boots, so you need a green stamp shoe while on the premises. Although the enforcement squad don't give a rats ass about this. It's just the signage on the premises states this. This is a liability trick (so you can't/won't sue). Another place to get wood, is the Tree Trimmer companies. They keep a property in the woods, and store cut down wood which is too large for their chipper. Now, here at the moment, we have a problem with an invasive species of insect, so there are limitations on wood transport. Where you are might be OK. Their wood cuts might be quite long, and they won't be cutting them in short lengths like I did when felling a tree. I cut short lengths, so I could lift them. One Tree Trimmer service, they actually brought a logging truck to their work site (a city park) and cut logging company length pieces and loaded up the truck. These were mature trees, that had grown with plenty of space around them, but needed to be taken down for safety. Would make a beautiful stump for working. Nice straight pieces that would stand upright and not lean at an angle. Yebut. I already have a stock of very dry split logs. I also have a bomb, wedges, club hammer, maul, felling axe, chainsaw, log stand..... I am not asking about splitting full rounds. That has already been done. I'm just preparing to split one or two stove sized logs (quarter round) down into kindling. All that I am missing at the moment is a base so that when I hit the splitting axe (hatchet) with the hammer when it is on top of the piece of wood, if it splits too easily (or I miss-cue) then I wont damage the axe blade on the block paving. So for the many posters who have provided enormous details about buying things I already have, and about going to a lot of effort and expense to provide a stock of split and seasoned wood which I also already have, can I respectfully refer you all back to the topic heading: "Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?" Cheers Dave R Would a Butchers chopping block be a good option? |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
In message , David
writes Respectfully, all the trees that I have cut up in the past, and all the offcuts, have already gone through the stove. I don't have access to free wood at the moment nor the inclination to go and cut, split, and season wood for 2 years. For the first time in a long while I've just bought a load of split and dried wood from a reputable local supplier. Lovely stuff it is too. It is burning quite happily. I am trying to light the fire without using a fire lighter, and the experimenting suggests that a small amount of kindling would make the fire light a lot more easily. I also intend to see what happens if I start the fire with a lot of kindling and get the chimney up to temperature before adding the big logs. Many years ago at a farm auction I was persuaded to bid on a 40' x 20' chicken shed. Needless to say, nobody else wanted the bother of dismantling, carting a re-erecting the thing. Well we got it home but the impetus had gone. The aluminium roofing got used for other jobs, the extractor fan motors are on my pile to be sold for scrap, the timber walls have been very useful! Creosoted tongue and groove pine burn and split very well and have started innumerable log fires. Small pile of sticks on the log burner grate. Few seconds with the boss's creme brule torch and then some logs laid in carefully.... I therefore refer you to the thread title: "Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?" which states exactly what I am looking for. Bit of plywood on the workbench, a hatchet or hand chopper and some straight grain pallet wood.... -- Tim Lamb |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/02/2021 21:26, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 11/02/2021 20:38, newshound wrote: I havn't tried a bomb; provided you have slices without too many knots I find a proper splitting axe aka as 'maul'. I've still got the scars from using one near someone's washing line. It caught the line recoiled, and missed my eye by half an inch... https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck...lb-3-6kg/87268 That is my tool of choice for splitting logs. I also use it on the back side with a pineapple shaped/bomb log splitter. It is a bit overkill. I only split for the wood burning stove, or when I don't have enough kindling +1 Most of the time I use deadwood branches that drop off my trees after a period of storage in the dry. But a few small pieces are handy. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
"David" wrote in message
... Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. Cheers Have you got an old kitchen chopping board, either wood or plastic? -- Regards wasbit |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 12/02/2021 12:45, David wrote:
Yebut. I already have a stock of very dry split logs. I also have a bomb, wedges, club hammer, maul, felling axe, chainsaw, log stand..... So, take your chainsaw, and go cut a lump of full round timber from a tree, and use that as your chopping block. Ideally make it long enough you can bury one end in the ground, to give you a plinth you can work at without stooping over. (a bit of 4x4" fence post would probably do at a pinch) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 12:28:49 +0000, John Rumm wrote:
On 12/02/2021 12:45, David wrote: Yebut. I already have a stock of very dry split logs. I also have a bomb, wedges, club hammer, maul, felling axe, chainsaw, log stand..... So, take your chainsaw, and go cut a lump of full round timber from a tree, and use that as your chopping block. Ideally make it long enough you can bury one end in the ground, to give you a plinth you can work at without stooping over. (a bit of 4x4" fence post would probably do at a pinch) Electric chain saw. No easy access to wood to cut anyway. Oh, and I need it to work on block paving so no burying. Overall hassle factor would make it cheaper to but a ready cut trunk with flat ends (see price in OP). I was just looking for something very simple which didn't involve going out to hunt the dead tree. Also, I could no doubt manufacture something but am up to my neck in can't- be-arsed at the moment so I was just looking for a simple, cheap, ready made solution. Like a block of rubber (my first thought). I think that relatively thin bits of wood (plank off-cuts or old chopping boards) would be very likely to split along the grain after only a short battering. My main requirements are minimal size, minimal effort to obtain, and easily stowed out of the way. As I said earlier my stock of useful off-cuts, wood scraps and the like went through the fire a year or so back. The list of what I already have was an attempt to head off the multiple attempts to persuade me to buy them. Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 19/02/2021 15:12, David wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 12:28:49 +0000, John Rumm wrote: On 12/02/2021 12:45, David wrote: Yebut. I already have a stock of very dry split logs. I also have a bomb, wedges, club hammer, maul, felling axe, chainsaw, log stand..... So, take your chainsaw, and go cut a lump of full round timber from a tree, and use that as your chopping block. Ideally make it long enough you can bury one end in the ground, to give you a plinth you can work at without stooping over. (a bit of 4x4" fence post would probably do at a pinch) Electric chain saw. Last I checked, they still cut wood! :-) Oh, and I need it to work on block paving so no burying. Overall hassle factor would make it cheaper to but a ready cut trunk with flat ends (see price in OP). I was just looking for something very simple which didn't involve going out to hunt the dead tree. Also, I could no doubt manufacture something but am up to my neck in can't- be-arsed at the moment so I was just looking for a simple, cheap, ready made solution. Buy a length of cheap 6x2 pine or similar, screw togther a few 12" long cut off sections, and flip it on its side. Use that as a chopping block. You can stick a foot on one end to keep it stable, Hold your bit of firewood steady by hand, and chop away with a small axe or wedge and hammer. Like a block of rubber (my first thought). Might just get you a rebound into the face! -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 11/02/2021 18:19, David wrote: On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 18:11:09 +0000, David wrote: I So small pieces to start are required. I have noted that even a few small bits of wood - mere splinters - are often enough to get the larger bits of wood blazing away merrily. I assume some kind of wicking effect. Yep, just proved that again. A few slivers of wood between two large logs and the whole thing bursts into flame. Just the two logs and an air gap and it glows but doesn't burn. So kindling it is. when cutting up trees always cut up a few smaller branches and stack them separately for this precise use I get a reasonable sized stick delivered once a day by a passing dog whose owner takes it for a long walk in nearby woods, started a few years ago so the sticks get time to dry out before they are needed. Costs me the odd slice off a carrot occasionally plus the occasional afternoon of looking after the dog if the owner cant take it somewhere. GH |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 13:34:55 +0000, David wrote:
Further to the tinkering with my log burner I think that although it will burn the big bits that I have, it may need more small bits to get going and up to temperature quickly. My log store (builder's bag) is under cover on hard standing and I no longer have a section of trunk as a chopping base. I see that you can buy a length of trunk for £20-£40 on line but I would prefer something more discreet, ad I am likely to be splitting small chunks into kindling using a hand axe and club hammer. In the longer term I could possibly ask my wood supplier if they could include a chopping block in the next load but that might be next Winter. A solid block of rubber about 12" x 12" x 2" would seem to fit the requirement for a solid base, edge protection for the axe, and easy stowing when not in use. My search skills, as usual, aren't getting me the results that I want. Any suggestions and lateral thinking most welcome. Reporting back. I found the pallet thing which the wood burner was delivered on, hidden away. That does the job adequately (shifts around but keeps the axe away from the hard standing). The good bit is that splitting the wood down a little further has made a big difference to the speed that the stove gets up to temperature. Once the coals are red hot the bigger bits burn well. I assume the slow starting was due to the ratio of volume to surface area - not enough surface area for the fire to catch well. Also (see why wooden beams don't burn as fast as you would expect in a house fire) the carbonisation of the surface can retard the spread of the fire. Anyway, worth doing. Although it is getting towards the end of the log burning season and the log pile is quite small now. Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/03/2021 14:05, David wrote:
Reporting back. I found the pallet thing which the wood burner was delivered on, hidden away. That does the job adequately (shifts around but keeps the axe away from the hard standing). The good bit is that splitting the wood down a little further has made a big difference to the speed that the stove gets up to temperature. Once the coals are red hot the bigger bits burn well. I assume the slow starting was due to the ratio of volume to surface area - not enough surface area for the fire to catch well. Also (see why wooden beams don't burn as fast as you would expect in a house fire) the carbonisation of the surface can retard the spread of the fire. Anyway, worth doing. Although it is getting towards the end of the log burning season and the log pile is quite small now. Cheers Dave R The "area to volume" thing you mention is correct, but the other good argument for splitting especially if you use timber from logs is that this gives them a better chance to dry. Most commercial logs are not dried for very long, and often only in thick sections which dry slowly. My local logs typically come as cylinders between 4 and 8 inches in diameter, or sometimes split from bigger rings into pieces typically 6 inches across. I used to split a dustbin full into pieces that were typically triangles of 3 to 4 inches on each side. I'd stack these up each side of the woodburner. I'd burn from one side, then refill that and start burning from the other. That way (after the first load), I was always burning wood that had been split and in a warm place for a week or so. This generates significantly more heat than freshly split wood, because damp wood steals heat by sending water vapour up the chimney. |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/03/2021 20:21, newshound wrote:
On 11/03/2021 14:05, David wrote: Reporting back. I found the pallet thing which the wood burner was delivered on, hidden away. That does the job adequately (shifts around but keeps the axe away from the hard standing). I still don't understand your need for this. Do you miss a lot? Even if you do then any slab of thick wood or plastic ought to do. The good bit is that splitting the wood down a little further has made a big difference to the speed that the stove gets up to temperature. Once the coals are red hot the bigger bits burn well. Only really needed for starting the fire. I tend to use newspaper dry bits that drop off my pine tree and dried tangerine peel with a few thin strips of selected kindling made from corners of logs and any thin ones. I assume the slow starting was due to the ratio of volume to surface area - not enough surface area for the fire to catch well. Also (see why wooden beams don't burn as fast as you would expect in a house fire) the carbonisation of the surface can retard the spread of the fire. It is surprising how resistant to catching bulk wood can be. Edges and corners will always catch first. The "area to volume" thing you mention is correct, but the other good argument for splitting especially if you use timber from logs is that this gives them a better chance to dry. Most commercial logs are not dried for very long, and often only in thick sections which dry slowly. My log supplier seems fairly good at seasoning it, but I still have them in my under cover log stack for several months prior to burning and in the inglenook warmed by the fire for a few days after that. My local logs typically come as cylinders between 4 and 8 inches in diameter, or sometimes split from bigger rings into pieces typically 6 inches across. I used to split a dustbin full into pieces that were typically triangles of 3 to 4 inches on each side. I'd stack these up each side of the woodburner. I'd burn from one side, then refill that and start burning from the other. That way (after the first load), I was always burning wood that had been split and in a warm place for a week or so. This generates significantly more heat than freshly split wood, because damp wood steals heat by sending water vapour up the chimney. It is certainly the case that wet wood doesn't burn at all hot. The drier you can get it prior to putting it in the burner the better. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 13/03/2021 20:10, David wrote:
On Fri, 12 Mar 2021 12:50:16 +0000, Martin Brown wrote: On 11/03/2021 20:21, newshound wrote: On 11/03/2021 14:05, David wrote: Reporting back. I found the pallet thing which the wood burner was delivered on, hidden away. That does the job adequately (shifts around but keeps the axe away from the hard standing). I still don't understand your need for this. Do you miss a lot? Even if you do then any slab of thick wood or plastic ought to do. snip I use a hatchet and a club hammer to split wood. This is generally very effective. However now and then a piece of wood splits far more easily than expected and the hatchet flies through the wood and towards the ground. You should be able to pull the blow if it goes so easily. I just use an axe for kindling and a damn big one for serious work of bigger logs. The biggest ones use a log exploder. It isn't very sharp at all. Having something between block paving and the blade avoids damaging the blade of the hatchet. Not complicated, really. No it isn't. If you can judge how hard to hit it. If you look back, I started out searching for an off-the-shelf slab of {something}. Not having a slab of plastic or thick wood to hand. Learning to use an axe properly might be a better approach. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On Sun, 14 Mar 2021 09:28:18 +0000, Martin Brown wrote:
On 13/03/2021 20:10, David wrote: On Fri, 12 Mar 2021 12:50:16 +0000, Martin Brown wrote: On 11/03/2021 20:21, newshound wrote: On 11/03/2021 14:05, David wrote: Reporting back. I found the pallet thing which the wood burner was delivered on, hidden away. That does the job adequately (shifts around but keeps the axe away from the hard standing). I still don't understand your need for this. Do you miss a lot? Even if you do then any slab of thick wood or plastic ought to do. snip I use a hatchet and a club hammer to split wood. This is generally very effective. However now and then a piece of wood splits far more easily than expected and the hatchet flies through the wood and towards the ground. You should be able to pull the blow if it goes so easily. I just use an axe for kindling and a damn big one for serious work of bigger logs. The biggest ones use a log exploder. It isn't very sharp at all. Having something between block paving and the blade avoids damaging the blade of the hatchet. Not complicated, really. No it isn't. If you can judge how hard to hit it. If you look back, I started out searching for an off-the-shelf slab of {something}. Not having a slab of plastic or thick wood to hand. Learning to use an axe properly might be a better approach. Ah! The Apple approach. I'm obviously (holding) doing it wrong. Assume that I have assessed the risk and have chosen a mitigation that I feel is appropriate. Learning that your chosen way of doing things isn't always the best for everyone else might be a better approach. Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Chopping kindling on hard standing - axe protector?
On 11/03/2021 20:21, newshound wrote:
because damp wood steals heat by sending water vapour up the chimney Yeah, but drying damp wood in your house also steals the heat... (today cursing my log supplier. I stacked them in the garage, I thought they were a bit damp. Today I moved them to the new log store, and found that the ply wall of the garage was mouldy. The meter says it is 23% moisture :( ) Andy |
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