http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/po...ole_screws.jpg

The above link shows a butt joint made with 1" Triton pocket hole
screws and the Triton double pocket hole jig.

The wood is 15mm thick on the short side.

I did several test joints using thicker wood, e.g. 18mm and they
worked a treat.

But as the picture shows, on the thinner wood the screws stand proud
by about 1.5mm.

Is it just because the wood is too thin for pocket holes?

I can of course file the proud bits flat, then insert the provided
filler plugs and finally sand down. The little bit of bright metal
showing after sanding down the plugs wouldn't matter.

But it's annoying.

I checked and the screws protrude from the rail exactly in the centre
of the butt piece as it should be.

Alternative: Kreg pocket hole screws appear to have more "compact"
heads instead of the rather large integral washers on the Triton
variety.

So could I use Kreg screws instead?

Thanks.

MM

On 16/10/2020 18:42, MM wrote:
http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/po...ole_screws.jpg

The above link shows a butt joint made with 1" Triton pocket hole
screws and the Triton double pocket hole jig.

The wood is 15mm thick on the short side.

I did several test joints using thicker wood, e.g. 18mm and they
worked a treat.

But as the picture shows, on the thinner wood the screws stand proud
by about 1.5mm.

Is it just because the wood is too thin for pocket holes?

I can of course file the proud bits flat, then insert the provided
filler plugs and finally sand down. The little bit of bright metal
showing after sanding down the plugs wouldn't matter.

But it's annoying.

I checked and the screws protrude from the rail exactly in the centre
of the butt piece as it should be.

Alternative: Kreg pocket hole screws appear to have more "compact"
heads instead of the rather large integral washers on the Triton
variety.

So could I use Kreg screws instead?

Thanks.

MM

Errr, drill a deeper hole. I use the Kreg system and it includes
guidance on jig settings and screw lengths for different thicknesses of
wood, I assume the Triton jig will come with something similar,

wrote:

MM wrote:

a butt joint made with 1" Triton pocket hole
screws and the Triton double pocket hole jig.

The wood is 15mm thick on the short side.

I did several test joints using thicker wood, e.g. 18mm and they
worked a treat.

But as the picture shows, on the thinner wood the screws stand proud
by about 1.5mm.

Errr, drill a deeper hole.

According to the instructions you raise/lower the jig's guide block to
match the thickness of wood being used

http://www.tritontools.com/Helpers/GetImage.ashx?type=InstructionManual&size=&name=35 5399_MANUAL.PDF

Andy Burns Wrote in message:
wrote:

MM wrote:

a butt joint made with 1" Triton pocket hole
screws and the Triton double pocket hole jig.

The wood is 15mm thick on the short side.

I did several test joints using thicker wood, e.g. 18mm and they
worked a treat.

But as the picture shows, on the thinner wood the screws stand proud
by about 1.5mm.

Errr, drill a deeper hole.

According to the instructions you raise/lower the jig's guide block to
match the thickness of wood being used

http://www.tritontools.com/Helpers/GetImage.ashx?type=InstructionManual&size=&name=35 5399_MANUAL.PDF


RTFM :-D
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Sat, 17 Oct 2020 10:12:17 +0100, wrote:

On 16/10/2020 18:42, MM wrote:
http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/po...ole_screws.jpg

The above link shows a butt joint made with 1" Triton pocket hole
screws and the Triton double pocket hole jig.

The wood is 15mm thick on the short side.

I did several test joints using thicker wood, e.g. 18mm and they
worked a treat.

But as the picture shows, on the thinner wood the screws stand proud
by about 1.5mm.

Is it just because the wood is too thin for pocket holes?

I can of course file the proud bits flat, then insert the provided
filler plugs and finally sand down. The little bit of bright metal
showing after sanding down the plugs wouldn't matter.

But it's annoying.

I checked and the screws protrude from the rail exactly in the centre
of the butt piece as it should be.

Alternative: Kreg pocket hole screws appear to have more "compact"
heads instead of the rather large integral washers on the Triton
variety.

So could I use Kreg screws instead?

Thanks.

MM

Errr, drill a deeper hole. I use the Kreg system and it includes
guidance on jig settings and screw lengths for different thicknesses of
wood, I assume the Triton jig will come with something similar,

To do that I'd have top use shorter screws and Triton don't do 'em.

That's why I wondered whether Kreg screws could be used instead,
because they come in either pan head or washer head. I'm assuming the
pan head is smaller in diameter.

MM.

On Sat, 17 Oct 2020 10:27:03 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

wrote:

MM wrote:

a butt joint made with 1" Triton pocket hole
screws and the Triton double pocket hole jig.

The wood is 15mm thick on the short side.

I did several test joints using thicker wood, e.g. 18mm and they
worked a treat.

But as the picture shows, on the thinner wood the screws stand proud
by about 1.5mm.

Errr, drill a deeper hole.

According to the instructions you raise/lower the jig's guide block to
match the thickness of wood being used

http://www.tritontools.com/Helpers/GetImage.ashx?type=InstructionManual&size=&name=35 5399_MANUAL.PDF

I'm not using that model, I'm using this:
http://www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Pro...e%20Jigs/T2PHJ

But sure, the principle you describe would be applicable to any jig.
Trouble is, I've experimented with positioning the jig a little bit
forward or a little bit back, and the screw washer still stands proud.
The problem is really the washer.

It should work. 1/2" thick wood is supported after all. And my timber
is actually, at 15mm, a tad thicker. It might work if I could find
shorter screws, but Triton's only go down to 1".

MM

MM wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

http://www.tritontools.com/Helpers/GetImage.ashx?type=InstructionManual&size=&name=35 5399_MANUAL.PDF

I'm not using that model, I'm using this:
http://www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Pro...e%20Jigs/T2PHJ

The manual for that model also shows board thickness down to 13mm with
1" screws.

http://www.tritontools.com/Helpers/GetImage.ashx?type=InstructionManual&size=&name=78 5737_MANUAL.PDF

It should work. 1/2" thick wood is supported after all. And my timber
is actually, at 15mm, a tad thicker. It might work if I could find
shorter screws, but Triton's only go down to 1".

There is a support phone num in the PDF, maybe they've changed the screws?

On 17/10/2020 14:01, MM wrote:

I'm not using that model, I'm using this:
http://www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Pro...e%20Jigs/T2PHJ

Not the same jig but the link belows shows something slightly different
to what you are doing

https://youtu.be/mvO6zaIUO18?t=154


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 17/10/2020 13:50, MM wrote:
On Sat, 17 Oct 2020 10:12:17 +0100, wrote:

On 16/10/2020 18:42, MM wrote:
http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/po...ole_screws.jpg

The above link shows a butt joint made with 1" Triton pocket hole
screws and the Triton double pocket hole jig.

The wood is 15mm thick on the short side.

I did several test joints using thicker wood, e.g. 18mm and they
worked a treat.

But as the picture shows, on the thinner wood the screws stand proud
by about 1.5mm.

Is it just because the wood is too thin for pocket holes?

I can of course file the proud bits flat, then insert the provided
filler plugs and finally sand down. The little bit of bright metal
showing after sanding down the plugs wouldn't matter.

But it's annoying.

I checked and the screws protrude from the rail exactly in the centre
of the butt piece as it should be.

Alternative: Kreg pocket hole screws appear to have more "compact"
heads instead of the rather large integral washers on the Triton
variety.

So could I use Kreg screws instead?

Thanks.

MM

Errr, drill a deeper hole. I use the Kreg system and it includes
guidance on jig settings and screw lengths for different thicknesses of
wood, I assume the Triton jig will come with something similar,

To do that I'd have top use shorter screws and Triton don't do 'em.

That's why I wondered whether Kreg screws could be used instead,
because they come in either pan head or washer head. I'm assuming the
pan head is smaller in diameter.

MM.

Why can't you drill a deeper hole and use shorter screws? The hole is
angled so that will take the screw head away from the face of the wood

On 17/10/2020 14:55, alan_m wrote:
On 17/10/2020 14:01, MM wrote:

I'm not using that model, I'm using this:
http://www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Pro...e%20Jigs/T2PHJ


Not the same jig but the link belows shows something slightly different
to what you are doing

https://youtu.be/mvO6zaIUO18?t=154



The possible clue to your (incorrect?) method of fixing is that the
supplied blanking plugs with kit/tool would not fit. you probably need
shorter screws and screwed deeper into the hole (as shown in the linked
video)

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sat, 17 Oct 2020 14:55:20 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 17/10/2020 14:01, MM wrote:

I'm not using that model, I'm using this:
http://www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Pro...e%20Jigs/T2PHJ

Not the same jig but the link belows shows something slightly different
to what you are doing

https://youtu.be/mvO6zaIUO18?t=154

Useful additional info, thanks!

MM

On Sat, 17 Oct 2020 17:15:45 +0100, wrote:

On 17/10/2020 13:50, MM wrote:
On Sat, 17 Oct 2020 10:12:17 +0100, wrote:

On 16/10/2020 18:42, MM wrote:
http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/po...ole_screws.jpg

The above link shows a butt joint made with 1" Triton pocket hole
screws and the Triton double pocket hole jig.

The wood is 15mm thick on the short side.

I did several test joints using thicker wood, e.g. 18mm and they
worked a treat.

But as the picture shows, on the thinner wood the screws stand proud
by about 1.5mm.

Is it just because the wood is too thin for pocket holes?

I can of course file the proud bits flat, then insert the provided
filler plugs and finally sand down. The little bit of bright metal
showing after sanding down the plugs wouldn't matter.

But it's annoying.

I checked and the screws protrude from the rail exactly in the centre
of the butt piece as it should be.

Alternative: Kreg pocket hole screws appear to have more "compact"
heads instead of the rather large integral washers on the Triton
variety.

So could I use Kreg screws instead?

Thanks.

MM

Errr, drill a deeper hole. I use the Kreg system and it includes
guidance on jig settings and screw lengths for different thicknesses of
wood, I assume the Triton jig will come with something similar,

To do that I'd have top use shorter screws and Triton don't do 'em.

That's why I wondered whether Kreg screws could be used instead,
because they come in either pan head or washer head. I'm assuming the
pan head is smaller in diameter.

MM.

Why can't you drill a deeper hole and use shorter screws? The hole is
angled so that will take the screw head away from the face of the wood

I can't find shorter pocket hole screws. Triton don't have any shorter
than 1".

MM

On Sat, 17 Oct 2020 14:31:24 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

MM wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

http://www.tritontools.com/Helpers/GetImage.ashx?type=InstructionManual&size=&name=35 5399_MANUAL.PDF

I'm not using that model, I'm using this:
http://www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Pro...e%20Jigs/T2PHJ

The manual for that model also shows board thickness down to 13mm with
1" screws.

http://www.tritontools.com/Helpers/GetImage.ashx?type=InstructionManual&size=&name=78 5737_MANUAL.PDF

It should work. 1/2" thick wood is supported after all. And my timber
is actually, at 15mm, a tad thicker. It might work if I could find
shorter screws, but Triton's only go down to 1".

There is a support phone num in the PDF, maybe they've changed the screws?

I've filed down the proud bits! Didn't take long at all. Then I glued
in the plugs and am waiting for the glue to dry. After I've sawn them
flat with the Japanese pull saw tomorrow, I'll whack the orbital
sander across the plugs. One may see a small bit of steel showing
where the screw heads are, but one could say (to any nitpickers) that
they are a "feature".

These frames, by the way, form a low "wall" around each of my pull-out
shelves, to stop things from sliding off. I started using 25mm thick
wood in the beginning, but switched to 15mm, because the thicker wood
looked out of proportion*. 'Course, with 25mm thickness the screws
would have fitted nice and snugly without poking out!

*
https://www.goldeagle.com/wp-content...1-1280x720.png

Yuk!

MM

On 16/10/2020 18:42, MM wrote:
http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/po...ole_screws.jpg

The above link shows a butt joint made with 1" Triton pocket hole
screws and the Triton double pocket hole jig.

The wood is 15mm thick on the short side.

I did several test joints using thicker wood, e.g. 18mm and they
worked a treat.

But as the picture shows, on the thinner wood the screws stand proud
by about 1.5mm.

You can compensate by moving the collar on the drill bit, so that the
drill can penetrate further into the wood. Since its also drilling at an
angle that will place the shoulder of the set deeper from the surface fo
the wood as well. You may need to move the drill guide on the jig up a
bit to compensate for the extra drill depth so that you don't end up the
the shoulder too close to the end of the timber.

So could I use Kreg screws instead?

You could. But its a fairly easy adjustment.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sat, 17 Oct 2020 13:50:45 +0100, MM wrote:

On Sat, 17 Oct 2020 10:12:17 +0100, wrote:

On 16/10/2020 18:42, MM wrote:
http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/po...ole_screws.jpg

The above link shows a butt joint made with 1" Triton pocket hole
screws and the Triton double pocket hole jig.

The wood is 15mm thick on the short side.

I did several test joints using thicker wood, e.g. 18mm and they
worked a treat.

But as the picture shows, on the thinner wood the screws stand proud
by about 1.5mm.

Is it just because the wood is too thin for pocket holes?

I can of course file the proud bits flat, then insert the provided
filler plugs and finally sand down. The little bit of bright metal
showing after sanding down the plugs wouldn't matter.

But it's annoying.

I checked and the screws protrude from the rail exactly in the centre
of the butt piece as it should be.

Alternative: Kreg pocket hole screws appear to have more "compact"
heads instead of the rather large integral washers on the Triton
variety.

So could I use Kreg screws instead?

Thanks.

MM

Errr, drill a deeper hole. I use the Kreg system and it includes
guidance on jig settings and screw lengths for different thicknesses of
wood, I assume the Triton jig will come with something similar,

To do that I'd have top use shorter screws and Triton don't do 'em.

That's why I wondered whether Kreg screws could be used instead,
because they come in either pan head or washer head. I'm assuming the
pan head is smaller in diameter.

MM.

I've now received the Kreg pan head screws (eBay). The heads are
indeed much smaller than the Triton washer head screws, I also found
Kreg 3/4" (19mm) pan head screws, but they appear to be only available
with a fine thread for hard woods. Nevertheless, I bought 50 of those,
too. (They are only No 6 screws, though; the others are No. 7.)

On the second frame I had a brainwave, such as it was. The 15 x 41mm
frame, as mentioned before, sits on the drawer (formerly the shelf) to
prevent objects from sliding off when I pull the drawer out. The frame
is fixed from the underside of the drawer with 9 screws, three on the
front cross piece and three each on the side rails. The purpose of the
pocket hole screws was simply to pull the butt joint together while
the glue dried. So the "brainwave" was, since the frame is screwed
down eventually, I could keep the pocket hole screws in temporarily
while I finish off the frame, but then discard the screws after the
frame has been fixed to the shelf.

So that's what I did on the second frame. I removed the screws and
glued in the plugs. Very nice! This is what I shall do on all
subsequent shelves, about 12 in total.

After that, I need to deal with the blind corner cupboards as a
special case!

MM