On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small amount of
water (if any), replace washer.

On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA

Depending on the design, there is often a gate valve somewhere near tehe
tank (or possibly from cold cylinder to tank) that you can turn off
(recognisable by round pressed-steel handle). Or you can sometimes put a
rubber bung in the bottom of the cold tank, in the pipe that feeds the
hot cylinder.

If none of these options are available you may be able to make that tap
"run dry" by running other hot water taps either nearer to the cylinder,
or below the one you want to work on.

Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 07/10/2020 16:11, newshound wrote:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
Â* change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
Â* I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA

Depending on the design, there is often a gate valve somewhere near tehe
tank (or possibly from cold cylinder to tank) that you can turn off
(recognisable by round pressed-steel handle). Or you can sometimes put a
rubber bung in the bottom of the cold tank, in the pipe that feeds the
hot cylinder.

+1
and another bung in the vent pipe will save needing to drain the content
of the feed pipe though the cylinder as well.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Andy Bennet Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small amount of
water (if any), replace washer.


Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
more work & inconvenience" plan.

It's not like there's oodles of PSI behind it.... Just need to
control/limit the flow for the 5 mins it takes to swap a
washer....
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 07/10/2020 16:52, Jimk wrote:
Andy Bennet Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small amount of
water (if any), replace washer.


Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
more work & inconvenience" plan.

It's not like there's oodles of PSI behind it.... Just need to
control/limit the flow for the 5 mins it takes to swap a
washer....

Have a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to hand, and a change of clothes.

You *might* get away with a bung if you have one the right size. Another
option would be a second pair of hands: as long as you don't let the
water run hot, the palm or the ball of the thumb will make a seal.

Sort out your crusty valves!

JohnP Wrote in message:


Sort out your crusty valves!


Manana!
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Jimk wrote:
Andy Bennet Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small amount of
water (if any), replace washer.


Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
more work & inconvenience" plan.

It's not like there's oodles of PSI behind it.... Just need to
control/limit the flow for the 5 mins it takes to swap a
washer....

As others have said, if you have a header tank and dont want to mess with
crusty valves, stick a bung in the header tank outlet.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 07/10/2020 17:05, newshound wrote:
On 07/10/2020 16:52, Jimk wrote:
Andy Bennet Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
Â*Â* change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
Â*Â* I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small amount of
water (if any), replace washer.


Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
Â* unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
Â* a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
Â* "limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
Â* more work & inconvenience" plan.

It's not like there's oodles of PSI behind it.... Just need to
Â* control/limit the flow for the 5 mins it takes to swap a
Â* washer....

Have a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to hand, and a change of clothes.

You *might* get away with a bung if you have one the right size. Another
option would be a second pair of hands: as long as you don't let the
water run hot, the palm or the ball of the thumb will make a seal.

Not if the water is at 60C :-). Turn the immrsion heater and heating
off for few hours, or run away the hot water to waste.

On 07/10/2020 17:56, Tim+ wrote:
Jimk wrote:
Andy Bennet Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small amount of
water (if any), replace washer.


Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
more work & inconvenience" plan.

It's not like there's oodles of PSI behind it.... Just need to
control/limit the flow for the 5 mins it takes to swap a
washer....

As others have said, if you have a header tank and dont want to mess with
crusty valves, stick a bung in the header tank outlet.

Tim


A carrot normally does the trick too.

On 07/10/2020 17:28, JohnP wrote:
Sort out your crusty valves!


Every time the clocks change, remember to manually exercise your
gate valves next to the hot tank :-)

On 07/10/2020 18:21, Jimk wrote:
Andrew Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 17:05, newshound wrote:
On 07/10/2020 16:52, Jimk wrote:
Andy Bennet Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small amount of
water (if any), replace washer.


Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
more work & inconvenience" plan.

It's not like there's oodles of PSI behind it.... Just need to
control/limit the flow for the 5 mins it takes to swap a
washer....

Have a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to hand, and a change of clothes.

You *might* get away with a bung if you have one the right size. Another
option would be a second pair of hands: as long as you don't let the
water run hot, the palm or the ball of the thumb will make a seal.

Not if the water is at 60C :-). Turn the immrsion heater and heating
off for few hours, or run away the hot water to waste.


Unlikely to be at 60deg in the pipe, initially....


Remove the top of the tap and whatever is in the tank will soon
increase the temp of your thumb or hand. Been there.

Andrew Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 17:05, newshound wrote:
On 07/10/2020 16:52, Jimk wrote:
Andy Bennet Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small amount of
water (if any), replace washer.


Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
more work & inconvenience" plan.

It's not like there's oodles of PSI behind it.... Just need to
control/limit the flow for the 5 mins it takes to swap a
washer....

Have a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to hand, and a change of clothes.

You *might* get away with a bung if you have one the right size. Another
option would be a second pair of hands: as long as you don't let the
water run hot, the palm or the ball of the thumb will make a seal.

Not if the water is at 60C :-). Turn the immrsion heater and heating
off for few hours, or run away the hot water to waste.


Unlikely to be at 60deg in the pipe, initially....
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 07/10/2020 16:52, Jimk wrote:
Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
a trice....

Lie a length of 2x1 across the top of the header tank and tie the float
valve up to it to stop the tank from refilling. Then turn the tap on and
the flow will stop when the tank runs dry. You can reduce wastage of hot
water by baling out as much as you can from the header tank into a bucket.

It happens that Jimk formulated :
Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
more work & inconvenience" plan.

If it is a cylinder fed from a higher tank, find something which is a
tight-ish fit in the pipe from the tank, to the HW cylinder. You can
actuall buy bungs for the job. No water going in the cylinder, from the
tank means no water coming out.

On 07/10/2020 19:13, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It happens that Jimk formulated :
Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
Â*unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
Â*a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
Â*"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
Â*more work & inconvenience" plan.

If it is a cylinder fed from a higher tank, find something which is a
tight-ish fit in the pipe from the tank, to the HW cylinder. You can
actuall buy bungs for the job. No water going in the cylinder, from the
tank means no water coming out.

eventually...

I was fixing a tap once, downstairs, and had turned off the mains and
open the tap till the tap ran dry.

Unfortunately my (now ex) wife decided to have a ****, and flushed an
upstairs loo. Introducing an air leak and allowing all the water
upstairs to drain onto my feet ....w

--
€œThe fundamental cause of the trouble in the modern world today is that
the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt."

- Bertrand Russell

Andrew Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 18:21, Jimk wrote:
Andrew Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 17:05, newshound wrote:
On 07/10/2020 16:52, Jimk wrote:
Andy Bennet Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small amount of
water (if any), replace washer.


Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
more work & inconvenience" plan.

It's not like there's oodles of PSI behind it.... Just need to
control/limit the flow for the 5 mins it takes to swap a
washer....

Have a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to hand, and a change of clothes.

You *might* get away with a bung if you have one the right size. Another
option would be a second pair of hands: as long as you don't let the
water run hot, the palm or the ball of the thumb will make a seal.

Not if the water is at 60C :-). Turn the immrsion heater and heating
off for few hours, or run away the hot water to waste.


Unlikely to be at 60deg in the pipe, initially....


Remove the top of the tap and whatever is in the tank will soon
increase the temp of your thumb or hand. Been there.



Impossible unless you let water past your thumb or hand.
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Wed, 7 Oct 2020 16:01:30 +0100 (GMT+01:00), Jimk
wrote:

Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?


Freezer spray?

Custos Custodum Wrote in message:
On Wed, 7 Oct 2020 16:01:30 +0100 (GMT+01:00), Jimk
wrote:

Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?


Freezer spray?


Last resort :-D
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 07/10/2020 19:13, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It happens that Jimk formulated :
Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
*unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
*a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
*"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
*more work & inconvenience" plan.

If it is a cylinder fed from a higher tank, find something which is a
tight-ish fit in the pipe from the tank, to the HW cylinder. You can
actuall buy bungs for the job.

Like this
https://www.toolstation.com/radiator...RoCOGsQAvD_BwE



No water going in the cylinder, from the
tank means no water coming out.


--
Chris B (News)

On Wed, 7 Oct 2020 16:50:48 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

Or you can sometimes put a rubber bung in the bottom of the cold
tank,
in the pipe that feeds the hot cylinder.

+1

+1

and another bung in the vent pipe will save needing to drain the content
of the feed pipe though the cylinder as well.

Or all of the pipe work above the tap in question. If air can get in
water can get out. Worst case is that it takes a while for air to
glug into the pipe work leading you into a false sense of securtity.
Then at some point the level drops below that required to glug and
the flow rapidly increases as the pipes empty...

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 07/10/2020 18:39, Andrew wrote:
On 07/10/2020 18:21, Jimk wrote:
Andrew Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 17:05, newshound wrote:
On 07/10/2020 16:52, Jimk wrote:
Andy Bennet Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
Â*Â*Â* change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
Â*Â*Â* I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is
drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small
amount of
water (if any), replace washer.


Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
Â*Â* unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
Â*Â* a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
Â*Â* "limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
Â*Â* more work & inconvenience" plan.

It's not like there's oodles of PSI behind it.... Just need to
Â*Â* control/limit the flow for the 5 mins it takes to swap a
Â*Â* washer....

Have a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to hand, and a change of clothes.

You *might* get away with a bung if you have one the right size.
Another
option would be a second pair of hands: as long as you don't let the
water run hot, the palm or the ball of the thumb will make a seal.

Not if the water is at 60C :-). Turn the immrsion heater and heating
off for few hours, or run away the hot water to waste.


Unlikely to be at 60deg in the pipe, initially....


Remove the top of the tap and whatever is in the tank will soon
increase the temp of your thumb or hand. Been there.

This is why I said DON'T LET IT RUN HOT

On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA



Do you have an inline service valve in the pipe close to the tap?

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Wed, 07 Oct 2020 20:56:10 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

snip

Or all of the pipe work above the tap in question. If air can get in
water can get out.

A mate, bought a fixer upper and had quite a bit of the place open mid
winter so got the coal fire (/ direct back boiler) going hard one
evening till he heard some strange rumbling noises from upstairs and
found the water boiling in the cylinder.

He damped the fire down and went to bed.

The next morning he ran some hot water off and it ran for a while then
slowed as he heard some different noises from upstairs and went into
the bathroom to find the HWC collapsed like an old beer can!

Upon inspection the cold feed from the cold water tank had frozen
solid, as had the expansion pipe (after water had boiled over),
cutting the supply of water or air and the resultant collapse.

He then soldered bits of pipe to the cylinder as handles to pull most
of the dents out then soldered up any splits, just to tide him over.
;-(

I would be surprised if he is still with us as when wiring the same
house he fitted a light switch, rose, drop cord and pendant ... and
when he put the lamp in it came on! Might the wooden step ladders have
saved him? ;-(

He was actually a watchmaker by trade. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Wed, 7 Oct 2020 18:12:41 +0100, Andrew wrote:

As others have said, if you have a header tank and don¢t want to mess with
crusty valves, stick a bung in the header tank outlet.

Tim


A carrot normally does the trick too.

Now that /is/ thread drift!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Wed, 7 Oct 2020 16:11:49 +0100, newshound wrote:

Depending on the design, there is often a gate valve somewhere near tehe
tank (or possibly from cold cylinder to tank) that you can turn off
(recognisable by round pressed-steel handle).

Often won't move or, IME, turns 'off' but actually does FA.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 07/10/2020 22:37, PeterC wrote:
On Wed, 7 Oct 2020 16:11:49 +0100, newshound wrote:

Depending on the design, there is often a gate valve somewhere near tehe
tank (or possibly from cold cylinder to tank) that you can turn off
(recognisable by round pressed-steel handle).

Often won't move or, IME, turns 'off' but actually does FA.

or turns off and never turns back on again, with the spindle just
twiddling...




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Yes my cocks are in the loft, and its a nightmare. If somebody could make a
tap that does not seize or leak after time, ie, one designed to only be used
when needed, ie rarely, I'd get three in my house changed tomorrow.
Brian

--
--
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Jimk" wrote in message
o.uk...
Andy Bennet Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small amount of
water (if any), replace washer.


Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
more work & inconvenience" plan.

It's not like there's oodles of PSI behind it.... Just need to
control/limit the flow for the 5 mins it takes to swap a
washer....
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

alan_m Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA



Do you have an inline service valve in the pipe close to the tap?


no :-D
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Thu, 8 Oct 2020 08:22:15 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

Wouldn't that be a *quality* full bore ball valve and isn't that what
they typically use in industry (stainless steel, boltable flanges etc)
for all sort of things?

Cheers, T i m

Yes my cocks are in the loft, and its a nightmare. If somebody could make a
tap that does not seize or leak after time, ie, one designed to only be used
when needed, ie rarely, I'd get three in my house changed tomorrow.
Brian

On Thu, 08 Oct 2020 10:24:40 +0100, T i m wrote:

Yes my cocks are in the loft, and its a nightmare. If somebody
could
make a tap that does not seize or leak after time, ie, one
designed to
only be used when needed, ie rarely,

Wouldn't that be a *quality* full bore ball valve

Hate gate valves, either seize up or don't close properly due to
crud, even if you excerise them once a year.

Full bore ball valves just work.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Dave Liquorice" Wrote in message:
On Thu, 08 Oct 2020 10:24:40 +0100, T i m wrote:

Yes my cocks are in the loft, and its a nightmare. If somebody
could
make a tap that does not seize or leak after time, ie, one
designed to
only be used when needed, ie rarely,

Wouldn't that be a *quality* full bore ball valve

Hate gate valves, either seize up or don't close properly due to
crud, even if you excerise them once a year.

Full bore ball valves just work.


+1
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

In article l.net,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 08 Oct 2020 10:24:40 +0100, T i m wrote:

Yes my cocks are in the loft, and its a nightmare. If somebody
could
make a tap that does not seize or leak after time, ie, one
designed to
only be used when needed, ie rarely,

Wouldn't that be a *quality* full bore ball valve

Hate gate valves, either seize up or don't close properly due to
crud, even if you excerise them once a year.

Full bore ball valves just work.,

but they weren't around when I did major plumbing work 40 years ago.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On Wed, 7 Oct 2020 23:35:03 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 07/10/2020 22:37, PeterC wrote:
On Wed, 7 Oct 2020 16:11:49 +0100, newshound wrote:

Depending on the design, there is often a gate valve somewhere near tehe
tank (or possibly from cold cylinder to tank) that you can turn off
(recognisable by round pressed-steel handle).

Often won't move or, IME, turns 'off' but actually does FA.

or turns off and never turns back on again, with the spindle just
twiddling...
+lots
I've got 5 of those 22mm gate valves in my airing cupboard and none
now work properly, ranging from totally stuck, to failed fully open,
fully closed, or somewhere in between with wheelhead spinning freely.

Job added to to-do list - replace with decent lever operated ball
valves eg.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/full-bore...low-22mm/30584

On 07/10/2020 19:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/10/2020 19:13, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It happens that Jimk formulated :
Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
Â*unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
Â*a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
Â*"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
Â*more work & inconvenience" plan.

If it is a cylinder fed from a higher tank, find something which is a
tight-ish fit in the pipe from the tank, to the HW cylinder. You can
actuall buy bungs for the job. No water going in the cylinder, from
the tank means no water coming out.

eventually...

I was fixing a tap once, downstairs, and had turned off the mains and
open the tap till the tap ran dry.

Unfortunately my (now ex) wife decided to have a ****, and flushed an
upstairs loo. Introducing an air leak and allowing all the water
upstairs to drain onto my feet ....w



I don't think that you're blaming the right person here. Had you told
her not to do this?

On 08/10/2020 08:39, Jimk wrote:
alan_m Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA



Do you have an inline service valve in the pipe close to the tap?


no :-D

Put one in now, and then the job will be easy.

GB Wrote in message:
On 08/10/2020 08:39, Jimk wrote:
alan_m Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA



Do you have an inline service valve in the pipe close to the tap?


no :-D

Put one in now, and then the job will be easy.




Er.....
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 08/10/2020 12:35, GB wrote:
On 07/10/2020 19:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/10/2020 19:13, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It happens that Jimk formulated :
Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
Â*unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
Â*a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
Â*"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
Â*more work & inconvenience" plan.

If it is a cylinder fed from a higher tank, find something which is a
tight-ish fit in the pipe from the tank, to the HW cylinder. You can
actuall buy bungs for the job. No water going in the cylinder, from
the tank means no water coming out.

eventually...

I was fixing a tap once, downstairs, and had turned off the mains and
open the tap till the tap ran dry.

Unfortunately my (now ex) wife decided to have a ****, and flushed an
upstairs loo. Introducing an air leak and allowing all the water
upstairs to drain onto my feet ....w



I don't think that you're blaming the right person here. Had you told
her not to do this?


I wasn't blaming anyone. I merely relate that it happened.

--
"Strange as it seems, no amount of learning can cure stupidity, and
higher education positively fortifies it."

- Stephen Vizinczey

On 08/10/2020 13:50, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 08/10/2020 12:35, GB wrote:
On 07/10/2020 19:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/10/2020 19:13, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It happens that Jimk formulated :
Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
Â*unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
Â*a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
Â*"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
Â*more work & inconvenience" plan.

If it is a cylinder fed from a higher tank, find something which is
a tight-ish fit in the pipe from the tank, to the HW cylinder. You
can actuall buy bungs for the job. No water going in the cylinder,
from the tank means no water coming out.

eventually...

I was fixing a tap once, downstairs, and had turned off the mains and
open the tap till the tap ran dry.

Unfortunately my (now ex) wife decided to have a ****, and flushed an
upstairs loo. Introducing an air leak and allowing all the water
upstairs to drain onto my feet ....w



I don't think that you're blaming the right person here. Had you told
her not to do this?


I wasn't blaming anyone. I merely relate that it happened.


Fairy nuf.