On 07/10/2020 19:15, Jimk wrote:
Andrew Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 18:21, Jimk wrote:
Andrew Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 17:05, newshound wrote:
On 07/10/2020 16:52, Jimk wrote:
Andy Bennet Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small amount of
water (if any), replace washer.


Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
more work & inconvenience" plan.

It's not like there's oodles of PSI behind it.... Just need to
control/limit the flow for the 5 mins it takes to swap a
washer....

Have a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to hand, and a change of clothes.

You *might* get away with a bung if you have one the right size. Another
option would be a second pair of hands: as long as you don't let the
water run hot, the palm or the ball of the thumb will make a seal.

Not if the water is at 60C :-). Turn the immrsion heater and heating
off for few hours, or run away the hot water to waste.


Unlikely to be at 60deg in the pipe, initially....


Remove the top of the tap and whatever is in the tank will soon
increase the temp of your thumb or hand. Been there.



Impossible unless you let water past your thumb or hand.


Which will happen very quickly as you remove your thumb while
you try and refit the top of the tap, with water spraying all
over the place. Been there, never again.

Andrew Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 19:15, Jimk wrote:
Andrew Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 18:21, Jimk wrote:
Andrew Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 17:05, newshound wrote:
On 07/10/2020 16:52, Jimk wrote:
Andy Bennet Wrote in message:
On 07/10/2020 16:01, Jimk wrote:
Any top tips to avoid draining down a hw cylinder in order to
change a tap washer?

something that I can bung in/over the seat & reduce losses whilst
I fart with the jumper?

Or ought else?

TIA


Just turn off the cold water feed into the HW tank - hot water is drawn
off from the top. Open the tap in question to run off a small amount of
water (if any), replace washer.


Hmm to clarify, all of those valves are somewhat crusty &
unwilling to operate properly & I fear things could go t1ts up in
a trice....

As the cylinder is only on the floor above I was hoping for a
"limit the spillage" plan rather than a "potentially make tons
more work & inconvenience" plan.

It's not like there's oodles of PSI behind it.... Just need to
control/limit the flow for the 5 mins it takes to swap a
washer....

Have a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to hand, and a change of clothes.

You *might* get away with a bung if you have one the right size. Another
option would be a second pair of hands: as long as you don't let the
water run hot, the palm or the ball of the thumb will make a seal.

Not if the water is at 60C :-). Turn the immrsion heater and heating
off for few hours, or run away the hot water to waste.


Unlikely to be at 60deg in the pipe, initially....


Remove the top of the tap and whatever is in the tank will soon
increase the temp of your thumb or hand. Been there.



Impossible unless you let water past your thumb or hand.


Which will happen very quickly as you remove your thumb while
you try and refit the top of the tap, with water spraying all
over the place. Been there, never again.


The valve/ jumper you mean? Less than a second if you are any good....
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 07/10/2020 23:35, John Rumm wrote:
On 07/10/2020 22:37, PeterC wrote:
On Wed, 7 Oct 2020 16:11:49 +0100, newshound wrote:

Depending on the design, there is often a gate valve somewhere near tehe
tank (or possibly from cold cylinder to tank) that you can turn off
(recognisable by round pressed-steel handle).

Often won't move or, IME, turns 'off' but actually does FA.

or turns off and never turns back on again, with the spindle just
twiddling...




My hot water gate valve next to hot tnk is jammed Open.
One day I will try and release it ...

In article ,
Andrew wrote:
On 07/10/2020 23:35, John Rumm wrote:
On 07/10/2020 22:37, PeterC wrote:
On Wed, 7 Oct 2020 16:11:49 +0100, newshound wrote:

Depending on the design, there is often a gate valve somewhere near
tehe tank (or possibly from cold cylinder to tank) that you can turn
off (recognisable by round pressed-steel handle).

Often won't move or, IME, turns 'off' but actually does FA.

or turns off and never turns back on again, with the spindle just
twiddling...




My hot water gate valve next to hot tnk is jammed Open.
One day I will try and release it ...

When we had a new water tank a few years ago, the plumber fitted 1/4 turn
taps

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle