Hi there

I've got a seized up rad valve on an upstairs radiator (at the same
height as the builer.

If i turn the CH system off and remove the valve, will this be OK? Or
will i end up with water pouring out everywhere? My reasoning is that
if there's no head of water,a nd no pump operating, there wont be any
pressure.

Or am i way off beam here?

On 16 Feb 2005 03:10:59 -0800, (Paul
Williams) wrote:

Hi there

I've got a seized up rad valve on an upstairs radiator (at the same
height as the builer.

If i turn the CH system off and remove the valve, will this be OK? Or
will i end up with water pouring out everywhere? My reasoning is that
if there's no head of water,a nd no pump operating, there wont be any
pressure.

Or am i way off beam here?
hi paul,
yes you are way off beam, in any kind of system this requires a drain
down
regards
bob

Grunff wrote:
Paul Williams wrote:
Hi there

I've got a seized up rad valve on an upstairs radiator (at the same
height as the builer.

If i turn the CH system off and remove the valve, will this be OK?
Or
will i end up with water pouring out everywhere? My reasoning is
that
if there's no head of water,a nd no pump operating, there wont be
any
pressure.

Or am i way off beam here?


Is the valve at the bottom of the radiator (like on most rads)? If
so,
what do you think will happen to the water in the radiator?



--
Grunff


I realise that the rad will need draining first, but thats easy enough.
I was more concerned with the pressure of water in the exposed inlet
pipe (which runs vertically up through the floorboard) creating a
stream of uncontrolled water to flood out.....

Paul Williams wrote:
Hi there

I've got a seized up rad valve on an upstairs radiator (at the same
height as the builer.

If i turn the CH system off and remove the valve, will this be OK? Or
will i end up with water pouring out everywhere? My reasoning is that
if there's no head of water,a nd no pump operating, there wont be any
pressure.

Or am i way off beam here?


Is the valve at the bottom of the radiator (like on most rads)? If so,
what do you think will happen to the water in the radiator?



--
Grunff

What about using pipe freezing?

Basically, I'm confident enough to have no problem replacing a single
rad valve, but draining and refilling the whole system makes me
nervous....

wrote:

I realise that the rad will need draining first, but thats easy enough.
I was more concerned with the pressure of water in the exposed inlet
pipe (which runs vertically up through the floorboard) creating a
stream of uncontrolled water to flood out.....


Yes, that is exactly what will happen.


--
Grunff

wrote:
What about using pipe freezing?

Basically, I'm confident enough to have no problem replacing a single
rad valve, but draining and refilling the whole system makes me
nervous....

The risk there is that something will go wrong, and end up taking a lot
longer than anticipated (and the frozen pipes will melt). This happens
to everyone at some point, but is more likely if you're relatively new
to plumbing.

Draining/refilling isn't as hard as you think, and is by far the safest
approach.


--
Grunff

On 16 Feb 2005 03:29:30 -0800, wrote:

What about using pipe freezing?

Basically, I'm confident enough to have no problem replacing a single
rad valve, but draining and refilling the whole system makes me
nervous....

hi paul,
i understand your feelings but the freezer way is realy only for the
pros far safer as the other poster said to drain down, it is not all
that difficult a task. what kind od system and boiler do u have ?
regards
bob

"Paul Williams" wrote in message
om...
Hi there

I've got a seized up rad valve on an upstairs radiator (at the same
height as the builer.

If i turn the CH system off and remove the valve, will this be OK? Or
will i end up with water pouring out everywhere? My reasoning is that
if there's no head of water,a nd no pump operating, there wont be any
pressure.

Or am i way off beam here?
I've changed a busted valve without draining the system.

- Turn off all valves to all other radiators.
- Turn off valve to header tank/or prop up ball valve with peice of wood and
string.
- Turn off valves either side of CH pump.
- If three port valve present turn to HW only.
- Block header tank outlet pipe with rubber bung (www.farnell.com) do
suitable rubber bungs.
- Drain the radiator in question, if water is clear and you've got Fernox in
system keep water to put back in header tank.
- Loosen valve from radiator end.
- Undo valve from pipe, water will leak, cover everything with cloths, be
prepared to reattach if too much water.
- Insert bung in end of pipe.
- Carefully remove old olive on pipe!!! (very carefully with hacksaw).
- Remove bung, attach new valve
- Attach to radiator, undo all valves. unblock header tank, pour saved water
into tank, release ball valve, release trapped air.
- Find water ****ing out valve as you didn't tighten it.

Ok forget last step, but thats what happened.

Heh - thats the million dollar question - i've only recently moved into
the house, so i'm not totally sure. Its a combi boiler, but above and
beyond that i dont know.

What distictions do i need to make, and how do i find out what sort of
system i have?

Alternatively, how much is it likely ot cost to get a plumber out to do
it?

On 16 Feb 2005 03:49:23 -0800, wrote:

Heh - thats the million dollar question - i've only recently moved into
the house, so i'm not totally sure. Its a combi boiler, but above and
beyond that i dont know.

What distictions do i need to make, and how do i find out what sort of
system i have?

Alternatively, how much is it likely ot cost to get a plumber out to do
it?
you have answered the question paul its a combi type system, these are
straight foward to drain down the filling of the system is a bit more
tricky nothing beyond you im sure though. try googling (uk) for it i'm
sure there will be some straightfoward advice out there.
as to your other question how much would a plumber want the answer is
an arm and a leg, and an extra pound of flesh to boot. after all the
are on here most of the time lol.
regards
bob

- Block header tank outlet pipe with rubber bung (www.farnell.com) do

suitable rubber bungs.


I have bought a set of these rubber bungs, one is used on the overflow
pipe that drains back into the header tank, the other blocks the water
output. They only work on a non-combi set up.

The cost (=A310-15) seems to be quite high for what they are (2 rubber
bungs), but I regard them as an excellent investment.

I live in a 3 story house, so there is plenty of pressure in the CH
system and changing a valve without them would be next to impossible
and result in things getting very wet. I normally open the bleed screw
on the radiator in question. If the bungs are in tightly enough then
the flow will stop fairly soon. Sometimes I have had to go back up to
the loft and push them in more tightly.

Hope this helps.

wrote:

Basically, I'm confident enough to have no problem replacing a single
rad valve, but draining and refilling the whole system makes me
nervous....

Don't be nervous.
I'm sure radiator vales have a finite life span to ensure C/H systems
get a clear out at least once every 10 years or less.

While you've drained the whole lot, why not fit nice thermostatic valves
to radiators if not already fitted and then run a C/H flushing agent
through, drain down and re-flush and replace all other rad valves that
look of the same vintage.

Then give a good dose of inhibitor re-fill and be happy in the knowledge
it's had a damn good service and good for another 10 years (adding extra
inhibitor somewhere in between just for good measure.

Just an idea.

--
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burbeck wrote:

you have answered the question paul its a combi type system, these are
straight foward to drain down the filling of the system is a bit more
tricky nothing beyond you im sure though. try googling (uk) for it i'm
sure there will be some straightfoward advice out there.
as to your other question how much would a plumber want the answer is
an arm and a leg, and an extra pound of flesh to boot. after all the
are on here most of the time lol.
regards
bob

On our old combi (ancient Valiant thing) the hardest part I found was
having to remove the covers to get to the bleed valve at teh top of the
boiler.

It took an awfull lot of purging to get enough air out of the boiler to
even get the thing to fire up.

Our 5 yr old Valiant turbomax thing is a complete doddle though.

--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Best Gym Equipment & Bodybuilding Supplements UK.
http://trade-price-supplements.co.uk - TRADE PRICED SUPPLEMENTS for ALL!
http://fitness-equipment-uk.com - UK's No.1 Fitness Equipment Suppliers.
http://gymratz.co.uk/hot-seat.htm - Live web-cam! (sometimes)

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
wrote:
What about using pipe freezing?

Basically, I'm confident enough to have no problem replacing a single
rad valve, but draining and refilling the whole system makes me
nervous....

The risk there is that something will go wrong, and end up taking a lot
longer than anticipated (and the frozen pipes will melt). This happens
to everyone at some point, but is more likely if you're relatively new
to plumbing.

Draining/refilling isn't as hard as you think, and is by far the safest
approach.


And while you're at it, take the opportunity to flush the system through
properly with one of the flushing gunks to get all the years of accumulated
crap in the system out.

On 16 Feb 2005 12:57:52 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

writes:
- Block header tank outlet pipe with rubber bung (www.farnell.com) do

suitable rubber bungs.


I have bought a set of these rubber bungs, one is used on the overflow
pipe that drains back into the header tank, the other blocks the water
output. They only work on a non-combi set up.

The cost (=A310-15) seems to be quite high for what they are (2 rubber
bungs), but I regard them as an excellent investment.

They cost about 20p in a brewing shop ...

If a combi with a sealed CH system with expansion tank
and the rad is at the top of the house:

Reduce pressure via drain tap .
Close valves on rad
disconnect faulty valve from rad and collect water from rad using old
wet and dry vacuum.
Remove fauly valve from pipwork and collect surplkus water using wet &
dry vaccum - the water will stop flowing quite quickly as rad is at
top of house.
Replace valve .

Otherwise drain system down to below rad level - not becessary to
drain whole system unless you plan to replace several valves.

Robert
royall at which net