In today's heat, I've just had to give up trying to pull this boat out
of the front hedge using a rope tied to a tree and the Rolson 4-ton
puller.

Basically, I couldn't get the cable to unwind to a starting length. I've
used it once before and think you have to flip a small spring across to
release the ratchet and then either take off another small brake or pull
the main lever across to do the same thing. All this seems to work OK,
but the cable won't move.

I wonder if anyone here can suggest anything before I take it to bits
and lose all the pin****its?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-4256.../dp/B007JIMQLM
--
Bill

Bill Wrote in message:

In today's heat, I've just had to give up trying to pull this boat out
of the front hedge using a rope tied to a tree and the Rolson 4-ton
puller.

Basically, I couldn't get the cable to unwind to a starting length. I've
used it once before and think you have to flip a small spring across to
release the ratchet and then either take off another small brake or pull
the main lever across to do the same thing. All this seems to work OK,
but the cable won't move.

I wonder if anyone here can suggest anything before I take it to bits
and lose all the pin****its?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-4256.../dp/B007JIMQLM

On my equally cheapo puller there is a spring loaded "pawl"
underneath that you have to depress & keep depressed whilst
unreeling the cable.

Also the cable can get pretty wedged on from the last time it's
used before storing, so I've had to attach it to something
solid & after doing all the release manoeuvres, heave back on it
to get things moving..
--
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
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On 26/06/2018 18:22, Jim K wrote:
Bill Wrote in message:

In today's heat, I've just had to give up trying to pull this boat out
of the front hedge using a rope tied to a tree and the Rolson 4-ton
puller.

Basically, I couldn't get the cable to unwind to a starting length. I've
used it once before and think you have to flip a small spring across to
release the ratchet and then either take off another small brake or pull
the main lever across to do the same thing. All this seems to work OK,
but the cable won't move.

I wonder if anyone here can suggest anything before I take it to bits
and lose all the pin****its?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-4256.../dp/B007JIMQLM

On my equally cheapo puller there is a spring loaded "pawl"
underneath that you have to depress & keep depressed whilst
unreeling the cable.

Also the cable can get pretty wedged on from the last time it's
used before storing, so I've had to attach it to something
solid & after doing all the release manoeuvres, heave back on it
to get things moving..


Just what I was going to say. They are pretty crude. I have had mine
apart in the past (probably wedged cable but can't recall for the
moment). They are not too bad for ping****its, you might want a second
pair of hands for reassembling. Wear suitable gloves, they can bite.

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In message ,
newshound writes
On 26/06/2018 18:22, Jim K wrote:
Bill Wrote in message:

In today's heat, I've just had to give up trying to pull this boat out
of the front hedge using a rope tied to a tree and the Rolson 4-ton
puller.

Basically, I couldn't get the cable to unwind to a starting length. I've
used it once before and think you have to flip a small spring across to
release the ratchet and then either take off another small brake or pull
the main lever across to do the same thing. All this seems to work OK,
but the cable won't move.

I wonder if anyone here can suggest anything before I take it to bits
and lose all the pin****its?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-4256.../dp/B007JIMQLM
On my equally cheapo puller there is a spring loaded "pawl"
underneath that you have to depress & keep depressed whilst
unreeling the cable.
Also the cable can get pretty wedged on from the last time it's
used before storing, so I've had to attach it to something
solid & after doing all the release manoeuvres, heave back on it
to get things moving..


Just what I was going to say. They are pretty crude. I have had mine
apart in the past (probably wedged cable but can't recall for the
moment). They are not too bad for ping****its, you might want a second
pair of hands for reassembling. Wear suitable gloves, they can bite.

It was well and truly jammed, so I started to dismantle. What I referred
to in the original post as the brake was, of course, the pawl, and the
spring of this is what has now pinged before I noticed which way round
it sat or what the ends rested on. No parts were lost, though.

I've reassembled without the pawl for the night while I try to work out
how and which way to put the spring in under the tension it needs. I'm
not really sure how to hold a spring in a slightly wound up state while
feeding it over the spacer rod in the rather enclosed space.
--
Bill

On 26/06/2018 20:29, Bill wrote:

Â*On my equally cheapo puller there is a spring loaded "pawl"
Â* underneath that you have to depress & keep depressed whilst
Â* unreeling the cable.
Â*Also the cable can get pretty wedged on from the last time it's
Â* used before storing, so I'veÂ* had to attach it to something
Â* solid & after doing all the release manoeuvres, heave back on it
Â* to get thingsÂ* moving..


Just what I was going to say. They are pretty crude. I have had mine
apart in the past (probably wedged cable but can't recall for the
moment). They are not too bad for ping****its, you might want a second
pair of hands for reassembling. Wear suitable gloves, they can bite.

It was well and truly jammed, so I started to dismantle. What I referred
to in the original post as the brake was, of course, the pawl, and the
spring of this is what has now pinged before I noticed which way round
it sat or what the ends rested on. No parts were lost, though.

I've reassembled without the pawl for the night while I try to work out
how and which way to put the spring in under the tension it needs. I'm
not really sure how to hold a spring in a slightly wound up state while
feeding it over the spacer rod in the rather enclosed space.

I think I had exactly the same experience with mine. It didn't take much
thinking plus trial and error before I got it working better than it had
originally. I may have done a little bit of fettling and lubricating as
well.

Obviously, the first thing to sort is which way round the spring goes
and where it is anchored. After that, the usual trick if you need to
apply a bit of pre-tension is to make a loop from thin cord or wire
which you hook over the free "hook" of the spring before winding it an
extra turn around the spindle. Then use the loop to get the spring
hooked into place. Finally cut the loop to remove it. Hope this makes
sense! Failing that, long nosed pliers can be useful.

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On 26/06/2018 20:29, Bill wrote:

It was well and truly jammed, so I started to dismantle. What I referred
to in the original post as the brake was, of course, the pawl, and the
spring of this is what has now pinged before I noticed which way round
it sat or what the ends rested on. No parts were lost, though.


You remind me of the thought I had last week when half-way through
dismantling a strimmer handle without due care and attention. Bugger
the police, *I* need a bodycam. And software please to scan past
recordings for such things as "scutch chisel".

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

In message ,
newshound writes
Obviously, the first thing to sort is which way round the spring goes
and where it is anchored. After that, the usual trick if you need to
apply a bit of pre-tension is to make a loop from thin cord or wire
which you hook over the free "hook" of the spring before winding it an
extra turn around the spindle. Then use the loop to get the spring
hooked into place. Finally cut the loop to remove it. Hope this makes
sense! Failing that, long nosed pliers can be useful.

Hmmm well, after trying for ages with the loop of thin cord, I think
that method will not work because of the lack of any free "hook" and the
shape of the free end of the spring. The spring seems to have a lot more
tension than necessary, which doesn't help.

The next stage, when I have time, is to see if there is any way to use
brute force to tension the pawl spring during reassembly and, after that
fails, maybe look at constructing some sort of jig.

All very frustrating because of lack of time to be able to get a good
run at it.


--
Bill

On 29/06/2018 10:39, Bill wrote:
In message ,
newshound writes
Obviously, the first thing to sort is which way round the spring goes
and where it is anchored. After that, the usual trick if you need to
apply a bit of pre-tension is to make a loop from thin cord or wire
which you hook over the free "hook" of the spring before winding it an
extra turn around the spindle. Then use the loop to get the spring
hooked into place. Finally cut the loop to remove it. Hope this makes
sense! Failing that, long nosed pliers can be useful.

Hmmm well, after trying for ages with the loop of thin cord, I think
that method will not work because of the lack of any free "hook" and the
shape of the free end of the spring. The spring seems to have a lot more
tension than necessary, which doesn't help.

The next stage, when I have time, is toÂ* see if there is any way to use
brute force to tension the pawl spring during reassembly and, after that
fails, maybe look at constructing some sort of jig.

All very frustrating because of lack of time to be able to get a good
run at it.


To be honest I don't recall if that is how I put mine back together, or
whether I used something rigid like a screwdriver (perhaps with a
modified tip). But there will be a way to do it, and it is *so*
satisfying when you do manage!

---
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In message ,
newshound writes
On 29/06/2018 10:39, Bill wrote:
In message ,
newshound writes
Obviously, the first thing to sort is which way round the spring
goes and where it is anchored. After that, the usual trick if you
need to apply a bit of pre-tension is to make a loop from thin cord
which you hook over the free "hook" of the spring before winding it
an extra turn around the spindle. Then use the loop to get the spring
hooked into place. Finally cut the loop to remove it. Hope this makes
sense! Failing that, long nosed pliers can be useful.
Hmmm well, after trying for ages with the loop of thin cord, I think
that method will not work because of the lack of any free "hook" and
the shape of the free end of the spring. The spring seems to have a
lot more tension than necessary, which doesn't help.
The next stage, when I have time, is to* see if there is any way to
use brute force to tension the pawl spring during reassembly and,
after that fails, maybe look at constructing some sort of jig.
All very frustrating because of lack of time to be able to get a
good run at it.

To be honest I don't recall if that is how I put mine back together, or
whether I used something rigid like a screwdriver (perhaps with a
modified tip). But there will be a way to do it, and it is *so*
satisfying when you do manage!

Well, thanks for all the moral support. I think at last I've done it.

There was one stupid mistake in my reassembly which I am too embarrassed
to admit. But it helps if you notice that you have turned the frame
round before you try to put the bits back.

I also had to find an old piece of small copper tubing to fit over the
end of the spring to increase the purchase on it. This let me pull the
twist out so that it could be eased into position over the shaft and
inside the frame.

So far so satisfying. Tomorrow I'll attach it to the old trailer and try
dragging the boat out of the hedge.
--
Bill

On 30/06/2018 20:17, Bill wrote:
In message ,
newshound writes
On 29/06/2018 10:39, Bill wrote:
In message ,
newshound writes
Obviously, the first thing to sort is which way round the spring
goes and where it is anchored. After that, the usual trick if you
need to apply a bit of pre-tension is to make a loop from thin cord
which you hook over the free "hook" of the spring before winding it
an extra turn around the spindle. Then use the loop to get the
spring hooked into place. Finally cut the loop to remove it. Hope
this makes sense! Failing that, long nosed pliers can be useful.
Â*Hmmm well, after trying for ages with the loop of thin cord, I think
that method will not work because of the lack of any free "hook" and
the shape of the free end of the spring. The spring seems to have a
lot more tension than necessary, which doesn't help.
Â*The next stage, when I have time, is toÂ* see if there is any way to
use brute force to tension the pawl spring during reassembly and,
after that fails, maybe look at constructing some sort of jig.
Â*All very frustrating because of lack of time to be able to get a
goodÂ* run at it.

To be honest I don't recall if that is how I put mine back together,
or whether I used something rigid like a screwdriver (perhaps with a
modified tip). But there will be a way to do it, and it is *so*
satisfying when you do manage!

Well, thanks for all the moral support. I think at last I've done it.

There was one stupid mistake in my reassembly which I am too embarrassed
to admit. But it helps if you notice that you have turned the frame
round before you try to put the bits back.

I also had to find an old piece of small copper tubing to fit over the
end of the spring to increase the purchase on it. This let me pull the
twist out so that it could be eased into position over the shaft and
inside the frame.

So far so satisfying. Tomorrow I'll attach it to the old trailer and try
dragging the boat out of the hedge.

Well done! Good luck tomorrow.

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