Hi All

I am about to move the keypad for my alarm to a new location. I have taken the front of and there are 4 wires connected red, black (assume these are power) green and white. With a resistor across green and white.

Am I safe enough to cut the wires one by one (assume 12v will be ok) ? This would be ideal as it will make it easier to pull the wires through . If not, what is the best way to do it? Unscrew each wire and tape it?

Thanks

Lee

wrote:

I am about to move the keypad for my alarm to a new location. I have taken the front of and there are 4 wires connected red, black (assume these are power)

Some firms/people "mix up" the colours to be no so obvious.

green and white. With a resistor across green and white.

sounds likely that B/R and GND/5V and G/W are the data pair then.

Am I safe enough to cut the wires one by one (assume 12v will be ok)
? This would be ideal as it will make it easier to pull the wires
through . If not, what is the best way to do it? Unscrew each wire
and tape it?
Have you put it into engineer mode?

In article ,
wrote:
Hi All

I am about to move the keypad for my alarm to a new location. I have
taken the front of and there are 4 wires connected red, black (assume
these are power) green and white. With a resistor across green and
white.

Am I safe enough to cut the wires one by one (assume 12v will be ok) ?
This would be ideal as it will make it easier to pull the wires through
. If not, what is the best way to do it? Unscrew each wire and tape it?

Power down the alarm and disconnect the internal battery. No need to worry
then.

--
*Rehab is for quitters.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Yes in engineer mode. What is the best way to disconnect the keypad as the alarm is powered as even switching off the mains the battery will kick in

wrote:

Yes in engineer mode. What is the best way to disconnect the keypad
as the alarm is powered as even switching off the mains the battery
will kick in

If you can't disconnect mains&battery then I suppose your plan A of
unscrew or snip wires individually, extend and re-connect, being careful
not to short them will work, photo beforehand might be handy ...

Thanks Andy. I ended up unscrewing them individually taping each one and then taping them all together. Seems to have done the trick. Got the wire to the right place and thankfully it is just long enough without extending it. Now waiting for the wife to come back to confirm exact location and hopefully a job off the never ending DIY list

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
Hi All

I am about to move the keypad for my alarm to a new location. I have
taken the front of and there are 4 wires connected red, black (assume
these are power) green and white. With a resistor across green and
white.

Am I safe enough to cut the wires one by one (assume 12v will be ok) ?
This would be ideal as it will make it easier to pull the wires through
. If not, what is the best way to do it? Unscrew each wire and tape it?

Power down the alarm and disconnect the internal battery. No need to worry
then.


Um, only if you have the engineer code. If not, the external sounder will
still go off as it has its own internal battery.

Tim
--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 05/05/2018 16:48, Tim+ wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
Hi All

I am about to move the keypad for my alarm to a new location. I have
taken the front of and there are 4 wires connected red, black (assume
these are power) green and white. With a resistor across green and
white.

Am I safe enough to cut the wires one by one (assume 12v will be ok) ?
This would be ideal as it will make it easier to pull the wires through
. If not, what is the best way to do it? Unscrew each wire and tape it?

Power down the alarm and disconnect the internal battery. No need to worry
then.


Um, only if you have the engineer code. If not, the external sounder will
still go off as it has its own internal battery.

Tim


Mine will go off even if you have the code.
The only way to stop it without power is to put some ear defenders on
and take the cover off and disconnect the sounder.

Hi All

So firstly the good news. Keypad has been moved and wired back in without needing to extend the wire.

Now the bad news. The keypad correctly displays the time and the fact that the system is in engineer mode. When I press the buttons on this keypad it beeps as normal but the display doesn't change. When I enter the engineer code to come out of engineering mode on the other keypad, it checks for tampers and then says there are 2 things missing on the circuit
1. keypad 1
2 prox 1

Any ideas? Is there something special about keypads? System is a Honeywell Galaxy 2

This all

Lee

wrote:

it checks for tampers and then says there are 2 things missing on the
circuit
1. keypad 1
2 prox 1

Any ideas? Is there something special about keypads? System is a Honeywell Galaxy 2

Sounds like the keypad isn't connected to the RS485 bus, check your
green/white wires ...

wrote:

Any ideas?

Or try a restart from your other keypad

option 51 17 1

On 05/05/2018 15:13, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
Hi All

I am about to move the keypad for my alarm to a new location. I have
taken the front of and there are 4 wires connected red, black (assume
these are power) green and white. With a resistor across green and
white.

Am I safe enough to cut the wires one by one (assume 12v will be ok) ?
This would be ideal as it will make it easier to pull the wires through
. If not, what is the best way to do it? Unscrew each wire and tape it?

Power down the alarm and disconnect the internal battery. No need to worry
then.


With my Texecom alarm step one would be to use the engineering utils to
switch off the sounder. You then have a couple of minutes to power off
the alarm and disconnect the battery.

--
Michael Chare

wrote:

Any ideas?

An option 72 for autodetect, to see if it adds the keyprox back?

It was the pesky green wire. With it in the same hole as the resistor it it almost as if the wire is too thin and doesn't get caught properly.

The moved keypad now either shows a load of *'s or is blank. The other keypad beeps when pressed but doesn't seem to respond the key strokes. Just shows engineering mode and time

wrote:

It was the pesky green wire.

The RS485 is wired as a bus

Do you just have keypads/keyproxes?
Or also any RIOs/ISDN/ethernet/door controllers?

It could go

PANEL-PAD1-PAD2

or

PAD1-PANEL-PAD2

there should be a 680 ohm resistor at each end of the bus.

No only keypads and the controller itself.

I have tried to get the keypad working but no joy. I have now disconnected the red lead of the keypad I moved but the other keypad is non responsive. The time is correct so not completely dead. Any ideas?

wrote:

I have tried to get the keypad working but no joy.

Is it wired

PANEL-PAD1-PAD2

or

PAD1-PANEL-PAD2

?

If you totally disconnect the wiring of the keyprox you altered, does
the other one work, if it's wired as per the top method, you'll probably
need to move the EOL resistor to the other panel to test.

wrote:

I have tried to get the keypad working but no joy.

Are you sure you connected the green/white wires back to the same A/B
terminals on the keypad?

To be honest, I am not sure which way around they are wired together. Without tracing the wire runs is there a way to tell? I have disconnected the live and the green wire and the other keypad is not responsive. Shows engineering mode and correct date and time.

Looks like it was the green and white wires. Although both seemed in when pulled a little, they mustn't have been in properly. I stripped them back a little and redid them and the keypads seem to be responsive now. Won't take them out of engineering mode yet in case it triggers the alarm and wakes the neighbours

Thanks again for all your help

wrote:

To be honest, I am not sure which way around they are wired together.

That was why I mentioned taking a photo beforehand!

Without tracing the wire runs is there a way to tell?

Look inside the panel at which of white/green is connected to the A/B
terminals, and use the same way round on the keypads.

Find a spare couple of feet of 4 core cable and just wire one keypad
direct to the panel, with a terminating resistor between A/B, if that
doesn't work, you've killed something, if it works put one keypad back
to original location, if that works put second one back, if something
doesn't work, trace the fault by swapping keypads, trying with trailing
wires, making sure you have the resistors in the right place (would help
if you answered the Q about layout of panel vs keypads)

On 05/05/2018 16:28, wrote:
Now waiting for the wife to come back to confirm exact location

Which will be no where near where you have put it, possibly not
even in the same room. :-)

It was indeed. Had to move it from bedroom to landing. TBH why we decided to put it in the bedroom originally is beyond me. Means everyone had to come into the bedroom to turn alarm off before going downstairs! Luckily wire was long enough after all so no big issue

No joy... And new error. I have just tried to take it out of engineering mode and now get a missing module "RIO 102" any ideas?

wrote:

No joy... And new error. I have just tried to take it out of
engineering mode and now get a missing module "RIO 102" any ideas?


AUIU (and it may vary for different honeywell panels) RIOs 0xx and 1xx
are the onboard zones which are on the internal RS485 bus that you
keypads chain onto, so I'd still be looking at your green/white wires
for bad connections, shorts, missing resistors, etc ...

Try option 72 for autodetect modules, or option 57 15 1 to restart the
panel?

Those 2 wires will be the death of me . My system doesn't go as far as 70's on the menu only 60's. Also 57 is system print. I believe I have a Galaxy 2 series if that helps. Will try googling for the menu settings.

Andy - just want to say a huge thank you for all your help. I did a restart and it now seems to be working

The menu on mine isn't very intuitive. I found a diagnostic (61) and the keypads (option 1) showed 100% Comms but the RIO (option 2) 0%. Restart curiously was in 51 (parameters) and then option 17.

Anyway keypad now in new location and the restart seems to have done the trick.

Thanks once again

Lee.

Andy Burns wrote:

Try option 72 for autodetect modules, or option 57 15 1 to restart the
panel?

[sorry can't quote your reply]

OK, I'm going by the installer manual for mine which is a galaxy flex, a
bit more modular, so I guess the options are different.

Do you have the galaxy2 installer manual? Maybe it doesn't have an
autodetect option if it has fixed modules, but I'd expect a restart
somewhere ...

Not sure if you have seen my previous reply but the restart was in the parameters setting menu (bit odd!). So ultimately it was 51 17.

Yes found the manual online in the end

https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf5/11...86&take=binary

Thanks again for all your help

wrote:

Not sure if you have seen my previous reply but the restart was in the parameters setting menu

Thunderbird ****ed up retrieving your message body, so I had to look at
it via google groups and couldn't reply directly, glad it's sorted ...