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Default curtains with PVCu windows

My curtain rails are all fixed to the wooden top of the window frames. If I replace the windows with PVCu, what is the best way to fix the curtain rails ?
I know you can screw into PVCu, but the screws tend to work loose over time.
A neighbour had the same issue and I did a quick fix for him putting battens on the ceiling, but it was only a temporary bodge - he probably kept it though !
Thanks,
Simon.
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Default curtains with PVCu windows

On 02/05/2018 13:28, sm_jamieson wrote:
My curtain rails are all fixed to the wooden top of the window frames. If I replace the windows with PVCu, what is the best way to fix the curtain rails ?
I know you can screw into PVCu, but the screws tend to work loose over time.
A neighbour had the same issue and I did a quick fix for him putting battens on the ceiling, but it was only a temporary bodge - he probably kept it though !
Thanks,
Simon.


Fit a batten along the top of gthe wall above the window and fit
your curtain tracks to that, or the 'modern' way seems to be
to use a metal pole attached at either end just beyond where the
lintel would stop and the curtains all have metal rings fitted
the slide along the pole.

Or do your windows go right up to the ceiling ?. In which case
a picture would help.
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Default curtains with PVCu windows

On 02/05/2018 20:00, Andrew wrote:
On 02/05/2018 13:28, sm_jamieson wrote:
My curtain rails are all fixed to the wooden top of the window frames.
If I replace the windows with PVCu, what is the best way to fix the
curtain rails ?
I know you can screw into PVCu, but the screws tend to work loose over
time.
A neighbour had the same issue and I did a quick fix for him putting
battens on the ceiling, but it was only a temporary bodge - he
probably kept it though !
Thanks,
Simon.


Fit a batten along the top of gthe wall above the window and fit
your curtain tracks to that, or the 'modern' way seems to be
to use a metal pole attached at either end just beyond where the
lintel would stop and the curtains all have metal rings fitted
the slide along the pole.


I had that and the screws kept pulling out due to a section of wall at
each end that was seemingly made of cheese.

I no longer have any problems since I shortened the pole slightly ...
and screwed it straight into the Catnic! It's never going anywhere now.

SteveW
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Default curtains with PVCu windows

On 02/05/2018 21:20, Steve Walker wrote:
On 02/05/2018 20:00, Andrew wrote:
On 02/05/2018 13:28, sm_jamieson wrote:
My curtain rails are all fixed to the wooden top of the window
frames. If I replace the windows with PVCu, what is the best way to
fix the curtain rails ?
I know you can screw into PVCu, but the screws tend to work loose
over time.
A neighbour had the same issue and I did a quick fix for him putting
battens on the ceiling, but it was only a temporary bodge - he
probably kept it though !
Thanks,
Simon.


Fit a batten along the top of gthe wall above the window and fit
your curtain tracks to that, or the 'modern' way seems to be
to use a metal pole attached at either end just beyond where the
lintel would stop and the curtains all have metal rings fitted
the slide along the pole.


I had that and the screws kept pulling out due to a section of wall at
each end that was seemingly made of cheese.

I no longer have any problems since I shortened the pole slightly ...
and screwed it straight into the Catnic! It's never going anywhere now.

SteveW


But interstitial condensation could have a nasty effect on your
lintel unless you squirted some spray-grease into the hole to
protect it.
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Default curtains with PVCu windows

We have curtains for tracks, so cannot use a pole - would need all new curtains !
There is a space above the window. Not sure what is behind it. Could be the back of the concrete (estate agent "stone" !) lintel if it goes full depth.
Also someone pointed out that double glazing handles often stick out a bit, so might be an idea to fix to the ceiling a bit further out.
Simon.



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Default curtains with PVCu windows

Andrew Wrote in message:
On 02/05/2018 21:20, Steve Walker wrote:
On 02/05/2018 20:00, Andrew wrote:
On 02/05/2018 13:28, sm_jamieson wrote:
My curtain rails are all fixed to the wooden top of the window
frames. If I replace the windows with PVCu, what is the best way to
fix the curtain rails ?
I know you can screw into PVCu, but the screws tend to work loose
over time.
A neighbour had the same issue and I did a quick fix for him putting
battens on the ceiling, but it was only a temporary bodge - he
probably kept it though !
Thanks,
Simon.


Fit a batten along the top of gthe wall above the window and fit
your curtain tracks to that, or the 'modern' way seems to be
to use a metal pole attached at either end just beyond where the
lintel would stop and the curtains all have metal rings fitted
the slide along the pole.


I had that and the screws kept pulling out due to a section of wall at
each end that was seemingly made of cheese.

I no longer have any problems since I shortened the pole slightly ...
and screwed it straight into the Catnic! It's never going anywhere now.

SteveW


But interstitial condensation could have a nasty effect on your
lintel unless you squirted some spray-grease into the hole to
protect it.


I expect the hole is full of the screw... how's this vapour going
to get past any quicker than through the rest of the
plasterboard?

--
Jim K


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Default curtains with PVCu windows

On 03/05/2018 16:52, Jim K wrote:
Andrew Wrote in message:
On 02/05/2018 21:20, Steve Walker wrote:
On 02/05/2018 20:00, Andrew wrote:
On 02/05/2018 13:28, sm_jamieson wrote:
My curtain rails are all fixed to the wooden top of the window
frames. If I replace the windows with PVCu, what is the best way to
fix the curtain rails ?
I know you can screw into PVCu, but the screws tend to work loose
over time.
A neighbour had the same issue and I did a quick fix for him putting
battens on the ceiling, but it was only a temporary bodge - he
probably kept it though !
Thanks,
Simon.


Fit a batten along the top of gthe wall above the window and fit
your curtain tracks to that, or the 'modern' way seems to be
to use a metal pole attached at either end just beyond where the
lintel would stop and the curtains all have metal rings fitted
the slide along the pole.

I had that and the screws kept pulling out due to a section of wall at
each end that was seemingly made of cheese.

I no longer have any problems since I shortened the pole slightly ...
and screwed it straight into the Catnic! It's never going anywhere now.

SteveW


But interstitial condensation could have a nasty effect on your
lintel unless you squirted some spray-grease into the hole to
protect it.


I expect the hole is full of the screw... how's this vapour going
to get past any quicker than through the rest of the
plasterboard?

You really don't understand physics do you.

Unless the plasterboard is foil-backed and the joints sealed with
double sided tape and masticed all round the perimeter, water
vapour will migrate through plasterboard and condense on any cold
surface.

There are plenty of calculators on places like British Gypsum,
Celotex etc web sites where you can input your construction and
it will predict the likelyhood of interstitial condensation.
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Default curtains with PVCu windows

Andrew Wrote in message:
On 03/05/2018 16:52, Jim K wrote:
Andrew Wrote in message:
On 02/05/2018 21:20, Steve Walker wrote:
On 02/05/2018 20:00, Andrew wrote:
On 02/05/2018 13:28, sm_jamieson wrote:
My curtain rails are all fixed to the wooden top of the window
frames. If I replace the windows with PVCu, what is the best way to
fix the curtain rails ?
I know you can screw into PVCu, but the screws tend to work loose
over time.
A neighbour had the same issue and I did a quick fix for him putting
battens on the ceiling, but it was only a temporary bodge - he
probably kept it though !
Thanks,
Simon.


Fit a batten along the top of gthe wall above the window and fit
your curtain tracks to that, or the 'modern' way seems to be
to use a metal pole attached at either end just beyond where the
lintel would stop and the curtains all have metal rings fitted
the slide along the pole.

I had that and the screws kept pulling out due to a section of wall at
each end that was seemingly made of cheese.

I no longer have any problems since I shortened the pole slightly ...
and screwed it straight into the Catnic! It's never going anywhere now.

SteveW

But interstitial condensation could have a nasty effect on your
lintel unless you squirted some spray-grease into the hole to
protect it.


I expect the hole is full of the screw... how's this vapour going
to get past any quicker than through the rest of the
plasterboard?

You really don't understand physics do you.

Unless the plasterboard is foil-backed and the joints sealed with
double sided tape and masticed all round the perimeter, water
vapour will migrate through plasterboard and condense on any cold
surface.

There are plenty of calculators on places like British Gypsum,
Celotex etc web sites where you can input your construction and
it will predict the likelyhood of interstitial condensation.


Double sided tape?? Itym foil backed tape? Never mind the vapour
coming off the damp outer leaf of the cavity around the
window...

But the lintel will be galvanized will it not?

So with your vast knowledge of physics how much shorter will a
catnic's lifespan be because of a couple of 3mm? screws in it?
And why?

--
Jim K


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Default curtains with PVCu windows

On 03/05/2018 19:18, Jim K wrote:
But the lintel will be galvanized will it not?


Plenty are just painted black these days.
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Default curtains with PVCu windows

Andrew Wrote in message:
On 03/05/2018 19:18, Jim K wrote:
But the lintel will be galvanized will it not?


Plenty are just painted black these days.


Don't think so...

Catnic

"The lintels are fabricated from either:
(1) hot dipped galvanized steel to BS EN 10142 :
1991, grade
DX51D, and Z275 or Z600 coating
type, with a minimum yield stress
of 250 Nmm,
and further protected against corrosion* by an
epoxy
or polyester resin coating applied to all external
surfaces of the
lintel to a minimum thickness of
0.025 mm,

or

(2) stainless steel to BS 1449 : Part 2 : 1983,
Grade 304 S15.
"

;-)
--
Jim K


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