On 08/05/17 18:16, Mobilohm ... wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
news
On 08/05/17 17:51, Mobilohm ... wrote:
who remembers brake shoes with rivets in them ? .....


I do.


they made a lovely mess of the drum when they wore down .....


but a fiver would get those skimmed at the same place that rehoned your
crankshaft bearings..


--
"Anyone who believes that the laws of physics are mere social
conventions is invited to try transgressing those conventions from the
windows of my apartment. (I live on the twenty-first floor.) "

Alan Sokal

"Mobilohm ..." wrote in message
news
the garage I use now at full price failed me for indicators bulbs not
coloured enough so the replaced the bulbs and then passed it at no extra
charge...now there is a garage you can trust .....

Mine tends to pass the car on the assumption that the lights are working,
and then replaces any bulbs to make that happen - so as not to record a fail
and then a pass-after-rectification.

I usually check bulbs before taking the car to be tested, because I once had
a garage fail me and then charge a retest fee. I presume a garage makes a
bit of money on that, so it's good to find a garage which doesn't take
advantage. It's in their best interest because I never went back to the
garage that ripped me off so they lost all my future MOT and service custom.

I'm trying to remember the last time any of my cars failed an MOT (apart
from the technicality of a duff bulb from the rip-off garage) because all
other garages have not recorded a fail and then a pass even for things like
brake pads they've had to replace or headlamp alignment that needed
adjusting. When you find a garage that plays fair, you keep going back to
them.

In article ,
NY wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
NY wrote:
The biggest problem is if the pads wear down to the rivets that
fasten them to the backing plates, because the rivets can there score
the discs, which when new discs are usually necessary even if the old
discs still have plenty of thickness. I've only had that happen once
on a car: I was going down a long steep hill and suddenly there was a
grinding noise. I wasn't aware of any loss of braking force,
presumably because the other brakes took more braking force if the
worn one stopped braking as effectively.

I've never ever seen a disc pad with the lining riveted. Even in the
1960s.

Ok, well whatever was worn caused the pads to score the discs when they
were applied. I assumed that rivets were revealed when the lining wore
down, but evidently I'm wrong with how the scoring was caused.

Discs get scored by road grit, etc. Doesn't effect their performance.

--
*It doesn't take a genius to spot a goat in a flock of sheep *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
As the saying goes, a worn gearbox and clutch are much more expensive to
replace than a set of pads. And changing gear purely to slow the car does
cause unnecessary wear on the box and clutch. And uses more fuel and
causes more pollution.

Not true.
You can change gear and not do any extra wear on the clutch or gearbox
if you do it properly.
The engine does the braking and it will be running anyway.
It won't be using any fuel while slowing so where does the extra
pollution come from?

Either you increase the engine speed as you change down thus wasting
petrol or you let the clutch speed up the engine wearing it more than
needed. And not all cars cut off the fuelling totally on the over-run.

--
*Nostalgia isn't what is used to be.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
NY wrote:
I'm intrigued that a lot of people have done large mileages without
needing new discs, because on all the cars that I have had, brake discs
tend to be needed roughly every three times that the pads need
changing. And that's with fairly gentle progressive braking (ie not
rushing up to lights at 60 and then slamming hard on at the last
moment).

Those who claim vast brake life must drive very slowly on quiet flat roads.

--
*Until I was thirteen, I thought my name was SHUT UP .

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
wrote:
On Monday, 8 May 2017 17:18:11 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 08/05/17 16:30, tabbypurr wrote:

I've seen riveted drum brake linings, can't remember what on though. Glue is better, but I don't know what sort of glue they use, must be impressive stuff.


epoxy of a kind.

I'd like to know what kind can survive those kind of temps. Car accessory shop high temp epoxy is hopeless even at 70C.


You don't need that strong a glue with a pad, as the shape keeps it in
place. The very earliest discs - Dunlop - had no steel backing at all.
Purely a cylinder of friction material.

--
*Money isn't everything, but it sure keeps the kids in touch *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
Either you increase the engine speed as you change down thus wasting
petrol or you let the clutch speed up the engine wearing it more than
needed. And not all cars cut off the fuelling totally on the over-run.

For cars that don't cut off the fuel totally on overrun (I thought all cars
with fuel injection did cut off) is the amount of fuel used dependent on
overrun revs? In other words, will they use more fuel in a lower gear
(changing down to give engine braking) than a higher gear (staying in top
until you're ready to set off). And is it more or less efficient to brake in
gear or to press the clutch?

My car uses *some* fuel (instantaneous mpg shows as about 250) if I press
the clutch and let the engine idle, but uses *no* fuel (mpg
shows as 999) if I stay in gear and let the car slow down on overrrun.

I wonder how much fuel is used in accelerating the engine to match a lower
gear before going down a long hill? Is it a measureable amount?

On 08/05/2017 18:33, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 08/05/17 18:16, Mobilohm ... wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
news
On 08/05/17 17:51, Mobilohm ... wrote:
who remembers brake shoes with rivets in them ? .....


I do.


they made a lovely mess of the drum when they wore down .....


but a fiver would get those skimmed at the same place that rehoned your
crankshaft bearings..


That would be about £50 at todays prices.

I can get a pair of genuine GM front disks for my astra for £36.

On 08/05/2017 10:49, Rod Speed wrote:
I havent needed a set of pads in 10 years and only needed
one set of pads in the previous 45 years with the previous car.

Not much to avoid in the outback though.

Mobilohm ... submitted this idea :
who remembers brake shoes with rivets in them ? .....

I do, you could buy just the friction material as a kit with the copper
rivets and fit them to your original shoes. It saved a bit on the cost
of a complete shoe.

On 08/05/2017 19:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
NY wrote:
I'm intrigued that a lot of people have done large mileages without
needing new discs, because on all the cars that I have had, brake discs
tend to be needed roughly every three times that the pads need
changing. And that's with fairly gentle progressive braking (ie not
rushing up to lights at 60 and then slamming hard on at the last
moment).

Those who claim vast brake life must drive very slowly on quiet flat roads.


Maybe they can drive?

You don't use your brakes much on a motorway.

On Mon, 08 May 2017 10:09:49 +0100, michael adams wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Monday, 8 May 2017 07:44:27 UTC+1, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:

history for SDO7 KNN ......ALWAYS pay the full price for an MOT or you
WILL get ripped off .......

even then you often will. I'm picky about where I take cars for MOTs.


NT

Local Councils often have MOT testing stations for their own vehicles
and apparently by law they're also obliged to offer the service to the
public.

Whether they're obliged to publicise the fact or their location is maybe
another matter. The testers themselves seem glad of the work however.

There's a list somewhere on the Moneysavingexpert website

I was charged around £55 for a small van.

Saying that, a lot will probably depend on whether you think the thing
is going to pass first time or not.

michael adams

...


I used the Council (outsourced now) MOT testing station for our motor home
and they were always pretty good.

Hard to find their details unless you now about them, though.

Cheers


Dave R


--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

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On 07/05/2017 21:43, Steve Walker wrote:
Are garages pushing unneccessary changes for profit?

Yes.

How do I know? Well, I was pretty well blackmailed. They took the pads
out, then told me I needed new discs at manufacturer prices, and refused
to reassemble them.

These are the same people who just took 14 hours to diagnose and fix a
failed fuel pump (should have been under half that I gather...) and left
it with a non-working cigar lighter. Which is a PITA as I run my satnav
off it.

Andy

wrote in message
...
On Monday, 8 May 2017 10:50:10 UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
"Jim GM4DHJ ..." wrote in message
news
"Rod Speed" wrote in message
...

I blame the passing of asbestos for discs wearing out fast .....

Mine dont wear out any faster than they did with asbestos was used.

lucky you ...on aveage every second or third set of pads you need discs
these days ....

I havent needed a set of pads in 10 years and only needed
one set of pads in the previous 45 years with the previous car.

sounds about right for a Crosley.

The 45 years was a Golf.

On 08/05/2017 17:13, NY wrote:
I wouldn't like to descend Porlock Hill, Rosedale Chimney or Park Rash
using only my brakes, without going down into maybe third or second to
give at least *some* engine braking.

I went over to Bangor on the A5 a few years back, in a Cavalier SRi,
with the uprated brakes. Shortly afterwards I noticed a vibration under
braking... when it happened again after I went back I decided to use the
engine a bit more over the Welsh mountains.

Brakes aren't _that_ much better than they were then.

Andy

Harry Bloomfield wrote:

I don't think the get access to the list of advisories when a vehicle
is presented for testing.

I think they do, they're on the public MOT check website too.

On 08/05/2017 20:06, dennis@home wrote:
Maybe they can drive?

You don't use your brakes much on a motorway.

My commute has a 200ft descent with a 2nd gear bend at the bottom. I
lose no significant speed on the descent, regardless of what speed I
start at the top. ICBA to arrive at the top at 20 so as not to brake at
the bottom.

Andy

On 08/05/2017 21:16, Rod Speed wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Monday, 8 May 2017 10:50:10 UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
"Jim GM4DHJ ..." wrote in message
news "Rod Speed" wrote in message
...

I blame the passing of asbestos for discs wearing out fast .....

Mine dont wear out any faster than they did with asbestos was used.

lucky you ...on aveage every second or third set of pads you need
discs
these days ....

I havent needed a set of pads in 10 years and only needed
one set of pads in the previous 45 years with the previous car.

sounds about right for a Crosley.

The 45 years was a Golf.

The VW Golf was launched in 1974.


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 08/05/2017 19:53, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Mobilohm ... submitted this idea :
who remembers brake shoes with rivets in them ? .....

I do, you could buy just the friction material as a kit with the copper
rivets and fit them to your original shoes. It saved a bit on the cost
of a complete shoe.

I did do that once.


--
Michael Chare

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On 08/05/2017 17:48, Mobilohm ... wrote:
"Michael Chare" wrote in message
news
On 08/05/2017 07:31, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
"Rod Speed" wrote in message
...


"Jim GM4DHJ ..." wrote in message
news
"Steve Walker" wrote in message
news On 07/05/2017 13:41, Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Plowman wrote:

Generally, discs need replacing every second set of pads.

That seems to be the way, though the garage generally tells me I've
been "lucky" as modern discs and pads are intended to need replacing
at
the same time.

I do my own maintenance and only use a garage for a few things
(welding
a sill, replacing a cambelt and replacing a dual-mass flywheel) that
would have cost me more in time off work to do it myself than for them
to do it.

In 30-odd years I have only replaced discs on two cars, both due to
slight warping - I have never worn a disc to the minimum even on cars
that have had numerous replacements of pads and mileages of 160,000+.

Are garages pushing unneccessary changes for profit?

SteveW

I blame the passing of asbestos for discs wearing out fast .....

Mine dont wear out any faster than they did with asbestos was used.
lucky you ...on aveage every second or third set of pads you need discs
these days ....



My problem has been rust on the surface of the discs leading to potential
MOT failure. It is hard to know just how much rust will be tolerated. The
difficulty I had replacing replacing pads and discs was getting the piston
to retract. I had to buy a special tool on ebay.

I just use two big tyre levers ....

That works fine on the front calipers of most cars (I've used a g-clamp
too), but the rears often need to be pressed in and rotated at the same
time to reset the self-adjuster for the handbrake. I've managed to do
Rover 420 with a g-clamp and a very wide screwdriver together, but I had
to buy the right tool for a Ford Focus.

SteveW

On 08/05/2017 11:02, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Michael Chare wrote:
My problem has been rust on the surface of the discs leading to
potential MOT failure. It is hard to know just how much rust will be
tolerated. The difficulty I had replacing replacing pads and discs was
getting the piston to retract. I had to buy a special tool on ebay.

Any rust will soon disappear with use. Rust on the disc where the pads
don't touch doesn't matter.


There was a ring of dust starting from the out edge and maybe 3/8" wide.
It was under the pad. It got to the point where the car would not pass
the MOT. Not light rust as you might get if you wash the car and then
leave it. I've not seem the problem on other cars that I have owned.

--
Michael Chare

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On 08/05/2017 19:53, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Mobilohm ... submitted this idea :
who remembers brake shoes with rivets in them ? .....

I do, you could buy just the friction material as a kit with the copper
rivets and fit them to your original shoes. It saved a bit on the cost
of a complete shoe.

I've not done that myself, but we did have to get the shoes on an old
Sprite Musketeer re-lined as we couldn't get hold of any new shoes.

SteveW

On 08/05/2017 10:09, michael adams wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Monday, 8 May 2017 07:44:27 UTC+1, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:

history for SDO7 KNN ......ALWAYS pay the full price for an MOT or you WILL
get ripped off .......

even then you often will. I'm picky about where I take cars for MOTs.


NT

Local Councils often have MOT testing stations for their own vehicles
and apparently by law they're also obliged to offer the service to the public.

Whether they're obliged to publicise the fact or their location is maybe another
matter. The testers themselves seem glad of the work however.

Our local council vehicle maintenance depot used to do this and I used
it regularly - despite it only being open during work hours on weekdays.
Then the council put the maintenance out to tender and suddenly the new
company started doing repairs on cars as well, which rather defeated the
object of going there.

SteveW

"Steve Walker" wrote in message
news
On 08/05/2017 17:48, Mobilohm ... wrote:
"Michael Chare" wrote in message
news
On 08/05/2017 07:31, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
"Rod Speed" wrote in message
...


"Jim GM4DHJ ..." wrote in message
news
"Steve Walker" wrote in message
news On 07/05/2017 13:41, Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Plowman wrote:

Generally, discs need replacing every second set of pads.

That seems to be the way, though the garage generally tells me I've
been "lucky" as modern discs and pads are intended to need
replacing
at
the same time.

I do my own maintenance and only use a garage for a few things
(welding
a sill, replacing a cambelt and replacing a dual-mass flywheel) that
would have cost me more in time off work to do it myself than for
them
to do it.

In 30-odd years I have only replaced discs on two cars, both due to
slight warping - I have never worn a disc to the minimum even on
cars
that have had numerous replacements of pads and mileages of
160,000+.

Are garages pushing unneccessary changes for profit?

SteveW

I blame the passing of asbestos for discs wearing out fast .....

Mine don't wear out any faster than they did with asbestos was used.
lucky you ...on aveage every second or third set of pads you need discs
these days ....



My problem has been rust on the surface of the discs leading to
potential
MOT failure. It is hard to know just how much rust will be tolerated.
The
difficulty I had replacing replacing pads and discs was getting the
piston
to retract. I had to buy a special tool on ebay.

I just use two big tyre levers ....

That works fine on the front calipers of most cars (I've used a g-clamp
too), but the rears often need to be pressed in and rotated at the same
time to reset the self-adjuster for the handbrake. I've managed to do
Rover 420 with a g-clamp and a very wide screwdriver together, but I had
to buy the right tool for a Ford Focus.

SteveW

I have the full kit for that in a plastic case...clockwise or anticlockwise
....piggin' mustang rear pistons are like that...piggin disc parking
brakes...why can't all cars be like mercs....

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
news
Mobilohm ... submitted this idea :
who remembers brake shoes with rivets in them ? .....

I do, you could buy just the friction material as a kit with the copper
rivets and fit them to your original shoes. It saved a bit on the cost of
a complete shoe.

that is what I call economy! .....asbestos city!

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
news
On 08/05/17 18:16, Mobilohm ... wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
news
On 08/05/17 17:51, Mobilohm ... wrote:
who remembers brake shoes with rivets in them ? .....


I do.


they made a lovely mess of the drum when they wore down .....


but a fiver would get those skimmed at the same place that rehoned your
crankshaft bearings..


I once did the big ends and then realised I had put in the thrust bearings
in the wrong was around....had to take the engine back out and redo them
white metal face out .......

"Andrew" wrote in message
news
On 08/05/2017 18:33, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 08/05/17 18:16, Mobilohm ... wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
news On 08/05/17 17:51, Mobilohm ... wrote:
who remembers brake shoes with rivets in them ? .....


I do.


they made a lovely mess of the drum when they wore down .....


but a fiver would get those skimmed at the same place that rehoned your
crankshaft bearings..


That would be about £50 at todays prices.

I can get a pair of genuine GM front disks for my astra for £36.

£20 for my wagon r ......delivered ebay...fakes but OK

"NY" wrote in message
o.uk...
"dennis@home" wrote in message
b.com...
The biggest problem is if the pads wear down to the rivets that fasten
them to the backing plates, because the rivets can there score the
discs,


I haven't seen pads with rivets for years.

I believe it has been law for many years that cars have a warning system
to show worn pads. Its used to be a copper stud set into the pad
connected to a wire that shorts to the disk and lights a lamp.
Mine is indicated by the computer but I expect its still a copper stud.
The biggest failure mode is the wire falling off the pad.


Could it be the copper stud embedded in the pad that causes the scoring of
the disc in the same way that (in the olden days) rivets would do.

I checked the warning light when I experienced the symptom, knowing about
brake pad warning wires/studs, and the light (the same one as used for
handbrake-on) did not light, so it may be that the wire had fallen off
since the last time the brakes have been checked and passed for another X
thousand miles.

I'm intrigued that a lot of people have done large mileages without
needing new discs,

I'm not, because I know its because I dont use the brakes that much.

because on all the cars that I have had, brake discs tend to be needed
roughly every three times that the pads need changing.

But when you only change the pads once in 45 years,
its hardly surprising that the discs are still fine.

And that's with fairly gentle progressive braking (ie not rushing up to
lights at 60 and then slamming hard on at the last moment).

I dont normally slow the car at the lights with brakes. I do usually
apply the brakes just at the end so the car doesnt drift forwards
or backwards while waiting for the lights to change, but that
obviously doesnt wear the brake pads any.

I presume it makes a difference if you live in hilly country:

Not with me. I hardly ever use the brakes in hilly country
except when actually pulling to a stop before applying
the handbrake after I have stopped.

even with engine braking to take some of the braking load, you will still
use your brakes more than if you live in flat terrain.

I dont.

Mind you, modern learners are taught not to use engine braking on a long
hill, but to stay in a fairly high gear and rely entirely on brakes -
that's what my nephew said he was told, anyway.

I do very little engine braking in the sense
of changing down a gear in hilly country.

I wouldn't like to descend Porlock Hill, Rosedale Chimney or Park Rash
using only my brakes, without going down into maybe third or second to
give at least *some* engine braking.

Sure, but there arent to many that do a hill like that daily or weekly.

"Mobilohm ..." wrote in message
news

"Rod Speed" wrote in message
...


"Jim GM4DHJ ..." wrote in message
news

"Rod Speed" wrote in message
...


"Jim GM4DHJ ..." wrote in message
news
"Steve Walker" wrote in message
news On 07/05/2017 13:41, Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Plowman wrote:

Generally, discs need replacing every second set of pads.

That seems to be the way, though the garage generally tells me I've
been "lucky" as modern discs and pads are intended to need replacing
at the same time.

I do my own maintenance and only use a garage for a few things
(welding a sill, replacing a cambelt and replacing a dual-mass
flywheel) that would have cost me more in time off work to do it
myself than for them to do it.

In 30-odd years I have only replaced discs on two cars, both due to
slight warping - I have never worn a disc to the minimum even on cars
that have had numerous replacements of pads and mileages of 160,000+.

Are garages pushing unneccessary changes for profit?

SteveW

I blame the passing of asbestos for discs wearing out fast .....

Mine don’t wear out any faster than they did with asbestos was used.

lucky you ...on aveage every second or third set of pads you need discs
these days ....

I havent needed a set of pads in 10 years and only needed
one set of pads in the previous 45 years with the previous car.

you have the wrong second name then ......

Nope, I regularly get booked for exceeding the speed limit
and only one of the garage salers can keep up with me and
she is now dead, not because of how she drove either.

Mobilohm ... wrote

who remembers brake shoes with rivets in them ? .....

Me, and the obvious holes.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
NY wrote:
I'm intrigued that a lot of people have done large mileages without
needing new discs, because on all the cars that I have had, brake discs
tend to be needed roughly every three times that the pads need
changing. And that's with fairly gentle progressive braking (ie not
rushing up to lights at 60 and then slamming hard on at the last
moment).

Those who claim vast brake life must drive very slowly on quiet flat
roads.

Even sillier than you usually manage. I am regularly fined for exceeding
the speed limit, none of the garage salers but one can keep up with me and
most of the 45 years were on nothing even remotely like quiet flat roads.

I just let the car slow down by itself when coming up to an intersection
or wherever that needs to be taken slower than normal.

"Andrew" wrote in message
news
On 08/05/2017 10:49, Rod Speed wrote:
I havent needed a set of pads in 10 years and only needed
one set of pads in the previous 45 years with the previous car.

Not much to avoid in the outback though.

The vast bulk of that driving was in normal suburban streets.

"dennis@home" wrote in message
web.com...
On 08/05/2017 19:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
NY wrote:
I'm intrigued that a lot of people have done large mileages without
needing new discs, because on all the cars that I have had, brake discs
tend to be needed roughly every three times that the pads need
changing. And that's with fairly gentle progressive braking (ie not
rushing up to lights at 60 and then slamming hard on at the last
moment).

Those who claim vast brake life must drive very slowly on quiet flat
roads.


Maybe they can drive?

You don't use your brakes much on a motorway.

And I dont use my brakes much on non motorways either.

In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 08/05/2017 19:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
NY wrote:
I'm intrigued that a lot of people have done large mileages without
needing new discs, because on all the cars that I have had, brake
discs tend to be needed roughly every three times that the pads need
changing. And that's with fairly gentle progressive braking (ie not
rushing up to lights at 60 and then slamming hard on at the last
moment).

Those who claim vast brake life must drive very slowly on quiet flat
roads.


Maybe they can drive?

You don't use your brakes much on a motorway.

Is that somewhere else you hardly ever go?

--
*By the time a man is wise enough to watch his step, he's too old to go anywhere.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Vir Campestris wrote:
On 08/05/2017 17:13, NY wrote:
I wouldn't like to descend Porlock Hill, Rosedale Chimney or Park Rash
using only my brakes, without going down into maybe third or second to
give at least *some* engine braking.

I went over to Bangor on the A5 a few years back, in a Cavalier SRi,
with the uprated brakes. Shortly afterwards I noticed a vibration under
braking... when it happened again after I went back I decided to use the
engine a bit more over the Welsh mountains.

Brakes aren't _that_ much better than they were then.

Depends on what you mean by 'then'. Try comparing the brakes on an old
Jaguar with drum brakes against a modern one in a panic stop from top
speed.

--
*A bartender is just a pharmacist with a limited inventory.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Robin" wrote in message
...
On 08/05/2017 21:16, Rod Speed wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Monday, 8 May 2017 10:50:10 UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
"Jim GM4DHJ ..." wrote in message
news "Rod Speed" wrote in message
...

I blame the passing of asbestos for discs wearing out fast .....

Mine dont wear out any faster than they did with asbestos was used.

lucky you ...on aveage every second or third set of pads you need
discs
these days ....

I havent needed a set of pads in 10 years and only needed
one set of pads in the previous 45 years with the previous car.

sounds about right for a Crosley.

The 45 years was a Golf.

The VW Golf was launched in 1974.

OK, so only 43.

Anyone ever suggested to you that if your hoover
dies, all you need to do is take your pants off and
scoot around on the floor on your bare arse ?

Steve Walker wrote:

I've not done that myself, but we did have to get the shoes on an old
Sprite Musketeer re-lined as we couldn't get hold of any new shoes.

Back when you could do your own caravan servicing. ;-)

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

NY wrote:

The biggest problem is if the pads wear down to the rivets that fasten them
to the backing plates, because the rivets can there score the discs, which
when new discs are usually necessary even if the old discs still have plenty
of thickness. I've only had that happen once on a car: I was going down a
long steep hill and suddenly there was a grinding noise. I wasn't aware of
any loss of braking force, presumably because the other brakes took more
braking force if the worn one stopped braking as effectively.

I had a pad on my Renault 20 wear down to the backing, which made
for a gentle run home. There was a monitoring wire which fed an
indicator, but because it was on the easiest side to run the
wire, it was also on the side of the caliper which wore least.
:-(

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
Harry Bloomfield wrote:

I don't think the get access to the list of advisories when a vehicle
is presented for testing.

I think they do, they're on the public MOT check website too.

but how can the tester read up what was said before if some do not appear on
the next MOT??? ....

On 09/05/2017 00:13, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 08/05/2017 19:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
NY wrote:
I'm intrigued that a lot of people have done large mileages without
needing new discs, because on all the cars that I have had, brake
discs tend to be needed roughly every three times that the pads need
changing. And that's with fairly gentle progressive braking (ie not
rushing up to lights at 60 and then slamming hard on at the last
moment).

Those who claim vast brake life must drive very slowly on quiet flat
roads.


Maybe they can drive?

You don't use your brakes much on a motorway.

Is that somewhere else you hardly ever go?


I suppose not, I have only driven about 1.6 million miles on motorways.
Th way you keep contradicting what i say I can only assume you can't
drive and are an foot on accelerator foot on brake idiot.