Does the puller shown on the right in this Screwfix product look like
it's suitable to remove the flywheel on an old Suffolk Punch 35S
lawnmower engine?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/bearing-se...r-puller/19315

MM

On 3/15/2017 12:08 PM, MM wrote:
Does the puller shown on the right in this Screwfix product look like
it's suitable to remove the flywheel on an old Suffolk Punch 35S
lawnmower engine?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/bearing-se...r-puller/19315

MM

Depends on whether it will get behind. The three legged type is another
option.

*Some* flywheels use an extractor tool which screws into the (threaded)
counterbore which the nut sits in. A bolt in this threaded sleeve then
bears down on the crankshaft.

On 3/15/2017 12:08 PM, MM wrote:
Does the puller shown on the right in this Screwfix product look like
it's suitable to remove the flywheel on an old Suffolk Punch 35S
lawnmower engine?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/bearing-se...r-puller/19315

MM

As an aside, I remember when the equivalent genuine Picavant tool would
have been £100 in modern money. You only got to use these at work!

MM wrote:
Does the puller shown on the right in this Screwfix product look like
it's suitable to remove the flywheel on an old Suffolk Punch 35S
lawnmower engine?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/bearing-se...r-puller/19315

MM


Hmm, don't think so.

If it looks like this
http://www.oldlawnmowerclub.co.uk/si...lk%20Punch.pdf
then I would hazard a guess that once you've removed the recoil starter and
pawl sub-assembly you might be able to screw bolts back into the two holes
in the flywheel on either side of the central left hand thread nut (once
you've removed it of course) through a short bar across the end of the
crankshaft. This should "push" the flywheel off the crankshaft.

You could even re-use the pawl hub sub-assembly (part 123) with something
to block the central hole packed behind it.

Tim

On 3/15/2017 12:46 PM, Tim+ wrote:
MM wrote:
Does the puller shown on the right in this Screwfix product look like
it's suitable to remove the flywheel on an old Suffolk Punch 35S
lawnmower engine?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/bearing-se...r-puller/19315

MM


Hmm, don't think so.

If it looks like this
http://www.oldlawnmowerclub.co.uk/si...lk%20Punch.pdf
then I would hazard a guess that once you've removed the recoil starter and
pawl sub-assembly you might be able to screw bolts back into the two holes
in the flywheel on either side of the central left hand thread nut (once
you've removed it of course) through a short bar across the end of the
crankshaft. This should "push" the flywheel off the crankshaft.

You could even re-use the pawl hub sub-assembly (part 123) with something
to block the central hole packed behind it.

Tim


Ah yes, I was almost going to say that sometimes flywheels have threaded
holes for simple extractor bolts, but I thought that was going to be too
easy!

(Currently searching for my bit of scaffold pole to slip over the big
stilson in an attempt to loosen a gate hinge adjustment nut. I know I
shouldn't be using the stilson, but the big adjustable hasn't come back
from loan).

On 15/03/2017 12:46, Tim+ wrote:

If it looks like this
http://www.oldlawnmowerclub.co.uk/si...lk%20Punch.pdf
then I would hazard a guess that once you've removed the recoil starter and
pawl sub-assembly you might be able to screw bolts back into the two holes
in the flywheel on either side of the central left hand thread nut (once
you've removed it of course) through a short bar across the end of the
crankshaft. This should "push" the flywheel off the crankshaft.

When I was doing my Agricultural Engineers apprenticeship one of the
first tools I made up was a dual purpose lawnmower flywheel puller.

A simple bit of steel plate with a "puller" hole in the centre into
which a bolt and nut was loosely fitted (the pulling/pushing bolt)
then a set of 3 holes for 3 hole flywheels and 2 holes for the likes of
the flywheel pictured above.

If I remember sometimes you'd need to actually tap a thread into the
flywheel holes if it hadn't been removed previously (obviously the same
thread as the bolts on your tool) (M6 possibly)
Then screw the puller bolts into the flywheel and wind the centre bolt
out gently, not forgetting to gently tap around the edge of the flywheel
to free it off as too much puller-pressure can strip out the threads
you've just tapped into the flywheel.

Easy peasy.
One thing NOT to do is try and lever the flywheel off as the fan vanes
will crack off the back with very little pressure.

On Wed, 15 Mar 2017 12:46:38 -0000 (UTC), Tim+
wrote:

MM wrote:
Does the puller shown on the right in this Screwfix product look like
it's suitable to remove the flywheel on an old Suffolk Punch 35S
lawnmower engine?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/bearing-se...r-puller/19315

MM


Hmm, don't think so.

If it looks like this
http://www.oldlawnmowerclub.co.uk/si...lk%20Punch.pdf

Exactly that, yes.

then I would hazard a guess that once you've removed the recoil starter and
pawl sub-assembly you might be able to screw bolts back into the two holes
in the flywheel on either side of the central left hand thread nut (once
you've removed it of course) through a short bar across the end of the
crankshaft. This should "push" the flywheel off the crankshaft.

Trouble is, I don't have any short bar or equivalent. So I thought by
the time I've gone to the hassle of locating a short, thick bar, or a
longer strip of 10mm stock I can saw down, I might as well look for a
suitable puller instead. There are numerous "universal" pullers for
this type of small engine on eBay and on Amazon. some with several
holes for the twin screws, others with elongated holes to adjust to
the appropriate pitch. Some don't have a threaded centre screw to push
against the crankshaft, but I think are intended to use two nuts on
each of the two bolts. You screw the bolts into the holes in the
flywheel, arranging the nuts either side of the bar. Then you unscrew
all four nuts and this has the effect of pushing the flywheel off --
with a judicious tap on the end of the crankshaft to break the taper.

You could even re-use the pawl hub sub-assembly (part 123) with something
to block the central hole packed behind it.

I did read on one of the mower websites that a 2p piece is exactly the
right thickness.

MM

On Wed, 15 Mar 2017 13:56:11 +0000, "www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
wrote:

On 15/03/2017 12:46, Tim+ wrote:

If it looks like this
http://www.oldlawnmowerclub.co.uk/si...lk%20Punch.pdf
then I would hazard a guess that once you've removed the recoil starter and
pawl sub-assembly you might be able to screw bolts back into the two holes
in the flywheel on either side of the central left hand thread nut (once
you've removed it of course) through a short bar across the end of the
crankshaft. This should "push" the flywheel off the crankshaft.

When I was doing my Agricultural Engineers apprenticeship one of the
first tools I made up was a dual purpose lawnmower flywheel puller.

A simple bit of steel plate with a "puller" hole in the centre into
which a bolt and nut was loosely fitted (the pulling/pushing bolt)
then a set of 3 holes for 3 hole flywheels and 2 holes for the likes of
the flywheel pictured above.

If I remember sometimes you'd need to actually tap a thread into the
flywheel holes if it hadn't been removed previously (obviously the same
thread as the bolts on your tool) (M6 possibly)
Then screw the puller bolts into the flywheel and wind the centre bolt
out gently, not forgetting to gently tap around the edge of the flywheel
to free it off as too much puller-pressure can strip out the threads
you've just tapped into the flywheel.

Easy peasy.
One thing NOT to do is try and lever the flywheel off as the fan vanes
will crack off the back with very little pressure.

Thanks. So far I haven't found anyone who stocks appropriate steel
strip around Spalding. There's probably loads of the stuff lying
around in garages everywhere.

How thick was the steel plate on your apprenticeship course? What dia
for the centre bolt? M12 is about all I can find around here.

MM

On 15/03/2017 15:59, MM wrote:

Thanks. So far I haven't found anyone who stocks appropriate steel
strip around Spalding. There's probably loads of the stuff lying
around in garages everywhere.

How thick was the steel plate on your apprenticeship course? What dia
for the centre bolt? M12 is about all I can find around here.

Something like 4 or 6mm I'd guess, just whatever off-cut was lying
around the workshop at the time.

As long as it's thick enough not to bend when you put pressure on the bolts.

I'll see if I can find it when I get into work later and take a picture.

Centre bolt doesn't matter as long as it's of a smaller diameter than
the end of the crank shaft so the flywheel won't catch it.

I guess you could possibly make the puller body out of a bit of wood and
washers on the bolts but in the fabrication w/shop scraps of steel were
everywhere and the "tool" was used many times a week. Wood /might/ be a
slightly "mushy" force rather than one you can feel and guage through
the spanner though.

On 16/03/2017 09:22, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:

How thick was the steel plate on your apprenticeship course? What dia
for the centre bolt? M12 is about all I can find around here.

Something like 4 or 6mm I'd guess, just whatever off-cut was lying
around the workshop at the time.

Apologies for the dropbox link but you can close the sign-up window to
see the pic.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/k502rn21xh...43.24.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q81vl0c3et...43.51.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/olvjkdlakn...43.14.jpg?dl=0

I welded the centre nut to the plate as trying to get a spanner in on a
3 bolt pull was a pain but on a 2 bolt it should be fine although I
could have threaded the plate instead, must have over-drilled the hole
by mistake.

On Thu, 16 Mar 2017 11:04:53 +0000, "www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
wrote:

On 16/03/2017 09:22, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:

How thick was the steel plate on your apprenticeship course? What dia
for the centre bolt? M12 is about all I can find around here.

Something like 4 or 6mm I'd guess, just whatever off-cut was lying
around the workshop at the time.

Apologies for the dropbox link but you can close the sign-up window to
see the pic.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/k502rn21xh...43.24.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q81vl0c3et...43.51.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/olvjkdlakn...43.14.jpg?dl=0

I welded the centre nut to the plate as trying to get a spanner in on a
3 bolt pull was a pain but on a 2 bolt it should be fine although I
could have threaded the plate instead, must have over-drilled the hole
by mistake.



Cool. Thanks!

MM

On Thu, 16 Mar 2017 11:04:53 +0000, "www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
wrote:

On 16/03/2017 09:22, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:

How thick was the steel plate on your apprenticeship course? What dia
for the centre bolt? M12 is about all I can find around here.

Something like 4 or 6mm I'd guess, just whatever off-cut was lying
around the workshop at the time.

Apologies for the dropbox link but you can close the sign-up window to
see the pic.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/k502rn21xh...43.24.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q81vl0c3et...43.51.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/olvjkdlakn...43.14.jpg?dl=0

I welded the centre nut to the plate as trying to get a spanner in on a
3 bolt pull was a pain but on a 2 bolt it should be fine although I
could have threaded the plate instead, must have over-drilled the hole
by mistake.



By the way, did you still have to whack the centre bolt after
tightening it?

MM

On 16/03/2017 16:37, MM wrote:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/k502rn21xh...43.24.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q81vl0c3et...43.51.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/olvjkdlakn...43.14.jpg?dl=0

I welded the centre nut to the plate as trying to get a spanner in on a
3 bolt pull was a pain but on a 2 bolt it should be fine although I
could have threaded the plate instead, must have over-drilled the hole
by mistake.



By the way, did you still have to whack the centre bolt after
tightening it?

Last mowers I repaired would have been over 30 yeas ago now but I'd
suggest it's more of a controlled tap than a whack.

If the first tap doesn't do it a "little" more pressure on the puller
and another firmer tap rather than trying to grunt it off.

First thing to strip will be the threads in the flywheel holes but you
can always re-tap them to the next size up.

Worth noting that if tapping threads into a blind hole you need to start
with a tapered tap and finish off with a bottom/plug tap.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_and_die


Cheers - Pete

--
https://www.GymRatZ.co.uk - UK Gym Equipment supplier.