Larder Fridge Beko LS620, purchased 2012

2013 Temperature totally erratic - thermostat changed under warranty
- now OK
2015 Would not cool - I tested and changed thermostat - now OK
Last week Would not switch off, temp down to 1 degree. Thermostat
checked - failed. New one ordered.

Spent a day switching manually on and off to keep temperature around 5
degrees.

Moved fridge to make access easier to fiet new trhermostat when it
arrives. OK for several hours went out for a while, temp down to 2
degrees, on return - switch off for a few hours.

Switched on again - would not cool. Have tried intermittently over
last two days.

Symptoms: compressor running taking initially 2A, dropping to 0.28A
after a few seconds. Usual gurgling noises. After 5 mins pipe to
fridge is 3 degrees below ambient, pipe to condenser is about 3
degrees above.

After 30 mins 'cool' pipe is close to ambient. Compressor body at 44
degrees, condenser warm at top only, rest at ambient.

I feel a fridge should last more than five years. Its predecessor was
23 years old when I got rid of it - mainly as the door seals were poor
and the cooling cycles were getting longer and a Class A replacement
seemed sensible.

Seems like refrigerant has gone, but I sure I didn't knock anything
when I moved it .

TIA

Graham

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On 11/03/2017 12:25, Graham C wrote:
Larder Fridge Beko LS620, purchased 2012

2013 Temperature totally erratic - thermostat changed under warranty
- now OK
2015 Would not cool - I tested and changed thermostat - now OK
Last week Would not switch off, temp down to 1 degree. Thermostat
checked - failed. New one ordered.

Spent a day switching manually on and off to keep temperature around 5
degrees.

Moved fridge to make access easier to fiet new trhermostat when it
arrives. OK for several hours went out for a while, temp down to 2
degrees, on return - switch off for a few hours.

Switched on again - would not cool. Have tried intermittently over
last two days.

Symptoms: compressor running taking initially 2A, dropping to 0.28A
after a few seconds. Usual gurgling noises. After 5 mins pipe to
fridge is 3 degrees below ambient, pipe to condenser is about 3
degrees above.

After 30 mins 'cool' pipe is close to ambient. Compressor body at 44
degrees, condenser warm at top only, rest at ambient.

I feel a fridge should last more than five years. Its predecessor was
23 years old when I got rid of it - mainly as the door seals were poor
and the cooling cycles were getting longer and a Class A replacement
seemed sensible.

Seems like refrigerant has gone, but I sure I didn't knock anything
when I moved it .

TIA

Graham

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It is a pity that changing a compressor is not really a DIY job. Our
previous Samsung fridge lasted about 13 years. There was a Samsung
repair man, but he just wanted to charge a call out fee and would not
quote a price for a specified fault. I did find someone who could fit a
compressor if I bought it but he wanted £250 an the part was about £180.


--
Michael Chare

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Graham C wrote:
Larder Fridge Beko LS620, purchased 2012

2013 Temperature totally erratic - thermostat changed under warranty
- now OK
2015 Would not cool - I tested and changed thermostat - now OK
Last week Would not switch off, temp down to 1 degree. Thermostat
checked - failed. New one ordered.

Spent a day switching manually on and off to keep temperature around 5
degrees.

Moved fridge to make access easier to fiet new trhermostat when it
arrives. OK for several hours went out for a while, temp down to 2
degrees, on return - switch off for a few hours.

Switched on again - would not cool. Have tried intermittently over
last two days.

Symptoms: compressor running taking initially 2A, dropping to 0.28A
after a few seconds. Usual gurgling noises. After 5 mins pipe to
fridge is 3 degrees below ambient, pipe to condenser is about 3
degrees above.

After 30 mins 'cool' pipe is close to ambient. Compressor body at 44
degrees, condenser warm at top only, rest at ambient.

I feel a fridge should last more than five years. Its predecessor was
23 years old when I got rid of it - mainly as the door seals were poor
and the cooling cycles were getting longer and a Class A replacement
seemed sensible.

Seems like refrigerant has gone, but I sure I didn't knock anything
when I moved it .

TIA

Graham

Thermostats should last for many years, perhaps you have been unlucky.
I can't find the Beko LS620 on Google.
Is it frost free?

On 11/03/2017 17:49, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
Graham C wrote:
Larder Fridge Beko LS620, purchased 2012

snip

Thermostats should last for many years, perhaps you have been unlucky.
I can't find the Beko LS620 on Google.
Is it frost free?

I think Graham is confusing his smart phone with his fridge, either that
or LG make fridges?

You have to watch these Turkish Fridges obviously.
Sounds to me like you got the old Lemon.
Brian

--
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Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Graham C" wrote in message
...
Larder Fridge Beko LS620, purchased 2012

2013 Temperature totally erratic - thermostat changed under warranty
- now OK
2015 Would not cool - I tested and changed thermostat - now OK
Last week Would not switch off, temp down to 1 degree. Thermostat
checked - failed. New one ordered.

Spent a day switching manually on and off to keep temperature around 5
degrees.

Moved fridge to make access easier to fiet new trhermostat when it
arrives. OK for several hours went out for a while, temp down to 2
degrees, on return - switch off for a few hours.

Switched on again - would not cool. Have tried intermittently over
last two days.

Symptoms: compressor running taking initially 2A, dropping to 0.28A
after a few seconds. Usual gurgling noises. After 5 mins pipe to
fridge is 3 degrees below ambient, pipe to condenser is about 3
degrees above.

After 30 mins 'cool' pipe is close to ambient. Compressor body at 44
degrees, condenser warm at top only, rest at ambient.

I feel a fridge should last more than five years. Its predecessor was
23 years old when I got rid of it - mainly as the door seals were poor
and the cooling cycles were getting longer and a Class A replacement
seemed sensible.

Seems like refrigerant has gone, but I sure I didn't knock anything
when I moved it .

TIA

Graham

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Do you think the problem is the refrigerant used these days being more
likely to corrode seals?
Brian

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The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

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"Michael Chare" wrote in message
news
On 11/03/2017 12:25, Graham C wrote:
Larder Fridge Beko LS620, purchased 2012

2013 Temperature totally erratic - thermostat changed under warranty
- now OK
2015 Would not cool - I tested and changed thermostat - now OK
Last week Would not switch off, temp down to 1 degree. Thermostat
checked - failed. New one ordered.

Spent a day switching manually on and off to keep temperature around 5
degrees.

Moved fridge to make access easier to fiet new trhermostat when it
arrives. OK for several hours went out for a while, temp down to 2
degrees, on return - switch off for a few hours.

Switched on again - would not cool. Have tried intermittently over
last two days.

Symptoms: compressor running taking initially 2A, dropping to 0.28A
after a few seconds. Usual gurgling noises. After 5 mins pipe to
fridge is 3 degrees below ambient, pipe to condenser is about 3
degrees above.

After 30 mins 'cool' pipe is close to ambient. Compressor body at 44
degrees, condenser warm at top only, rest at ambient.

I feel a fridge should last more than five years. Its predecessor was
23 years old when I got rid of it - mainly as the door seals were poor
and the cooling cycles were getting longer and a Class A replacement
seemed sensible.

Seems like refrigerant has gone, but I sure I didn't knock anything
when I moved it .

TIA

Graham

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It is a pity that changing a compressor is not really a DIY job. Our
previous Samsung fridge lasted about 13 years. There was a Samsung repair
man, but he just wanted to charge a call out fee and would not quote a
price for a specified fault. I did find someone who could fit a
compressor if I bought it but he wanted £250 an the part was about £180.


--
Michael Chare

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Actually they do, or rather they brand them as LG, probably made by somebody
else.
I did not think they sold them in the UK though.
I have the rather naffly named Fridgemaster one and the back is completely
enclosed so one cannot knock anything when moving it. Its been fine for 10
years now, though the little interior light does make a nasty spike of
interference as thedoor opens and closes.

Brian

--
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Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Fredxxx" wrote in message
news
On 11/03/2017 17:49, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
Graham C wrote:
Larder Fridge Beko LS620, purchased 2012

snip

Thermostats should last for many years, perhaps you have been unlucky.
I can't find the Beko LS620 on Google.
Is it frost free?

I think Graham is confusing his smart phone with his fridge, either that
or LG make fridges?

On Sun, 12 Mar 2017 09:59:58 -0000, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

Actually they do, or rather they brand them as LG, probably made by somebody
else.
I did not think they sold them in the UK though.
I have the rather naffly named Fridgemaster one and the back is completely
enclosed so one cannot knock anything when moving it.


We have had an LG fridge freezer for some years now with twin opening
doors to the upper fridge compartment and 3 seperate freezer drawers
below.

For the sighted this model
http://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/me...GM5148AERV.jpg
now superceded.
A couple of other manufactures now do something similar but at the
time of purchase the double narrow doors of the fridge compartment
were a rare feature. By requiring less of a swinging area than a
large single door it means you can access it and stand close and not
block passage for others in a our relatively narrow kitchen so were
able to have a large size fridge freezer than before.
And opening one half just get to get the milk out lets less cold air
go to waste than doing the same with a single larger door.

G.Harman

On Sat, 11 Mar 2017 12:25:13 +0000, Graham C
wrote:

Larder Fridge Beko LS620, purchased 2012

2013 Temperature totally erratic - thermostat changed under warranty
- now OK
2015 Would not cool - I tested and changed thermostat - now OK
Last week Would not switch off, temp down to 1 degree. Thermostat
checked - failed. New one ordered.

Spent a day switching manually on and off to keep temperature around 5
degrees.

Moved fridge to make access easier to fiet new trhermostat when it
arrives. OK for several hours went out for a while, temp down to 2
degrees, on return - switch off for a few hours.

Switched on again - would not cool. Have tried intermittently over
last two days.

Symptoms: compressor running taking initially 2A, dropping to 0.28A
after a few seconds. Usual gurgling noises. After 5 mins pipe to
fridge is 3 degrees below ambient, pipe to condenser is about 3
degrees above.

After 30 mins 'cool' pipe is close to ambient. Compressor body at 44
degrees, condenser warm at top only, rest at ambient.

I feel a fridge should last more than five years. Its predecessor was
23 years old when I got rid of it - mainly as the door seals were poor
and the cooling cycles were getting longer and a Class A replacement
seemed sensible.

Seems like refrigerant has gone, but I sure I didn't knock anything
when I moved it .

TIA

Graham

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Sorry guys, dyslexia rules KO

It's a Beko LA 620

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Graham C wrote:
Larder Fridge Beko LS620, purchased 2012

2013 Temperature totally erratic - thermostat changed under warranty
- now OK
2015 Would not cool - I tested and changed thermostat - now OK
Last week Would not switch off, temp down to 1 degree. Thermostat
checked - failed. New one ordered.

Spent a day switching manually on and off to keep temperature around 5
degrees.

Moved fridge to make access easier to fiet new trhermostat when it
arrives. OK for several hours went out for a while, temp down to 2
degrees, on return - switch off for a few hours.

Switched on again - would not cool. Have tried intermittently over
last two days.

Symptoms: compressor running taking initially 2A, dropping to 0.28A
after a few seconds. Usual gurgling noises. After 5 mins pipe to
fridge is 3 degrees below ambient, pipe to condenser is about 3
degrees above.

After 30 mins 'cool' pipe is close to ambient. Compressor body at 44
degrees, condenser warm at top only, rest at ambient.

I feel a fridge should last more than five years. Its predecessor was
23 years old when I got rid of it - mainly as the door seals were poor
and the cooling cycles were getting longer and a Class A replacement
seemed sensible.

Seems like refrigerant has gone, but I sure I didn't knock anything
when I moved it .

TIA

Graham


Did you clamp the end of the stat capillary to the evaporator/cold plate?

On Sun, 12 Mar 2017 20:25:22 -0000, "Mr Pounder Esquire"
wrote:

Graham C wrote:
Larder Fridge Beko LS620, purchased 2012

2013 Temperature totally erratic - thermostat changed under warranty
- now OK
2015 Would not cool - I tested and changed thermostat - now OK
Last week Would not switch off, temp down to 1 degree. Thermostat
checked - failed. New one ordered.

Spent a day switching manually on and off to keep temperature around 5
degrees.

Moved fridge to make access easier to fiet new trhermostat when it
arrives. OK for several hours went out for a while, temp down to 2
degrees, on return - switch off for a few hours.

Switched on again - would not cool. Have tried intermittently over
last two days.

Symptoms: compressor running taking initially 2A, dropping to 0.28A
after a few seconds. Usual gurgling noises. After 5 mins pipe to
fridge is 3 degrees below ambient, pipe to condenser is about 3
degrees above.

After 30 mins 'cool' pipe is close to ambient. Compressor body at 44
degrees, condenser warm at top only, rest at ambient.

I feel a fridge should last more than five years. Its predecessor was
23 years old when I got rid of it - mainly as the door seals were poor
and the cooling cycles were getting longer and a Class A replacement
seemed sensible.

Seems like refrigerant has gone, but I sure I didn't knock anything
when I moved it .

TIA

Graham


Did you clamp the end of the stat capillary to the evaporator/cold plate?

Haven't touched anything apart from removing the stat and shorting the
wires (which is effectively what was happening anyway.. This kept the
compressor running.

I tested the fridge thermostat in the freezer. It still said 'cooling
required' when at -30 deg.

Now looking for a replacement fridge. As I suspected a minefield.

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