UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

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I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)

--
Cheers,

John.

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In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:


http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118


That ain't gonna work ;-)


(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


Brilliant. ;-)

But the very idea of using a gas flame type iron on a PCB fills me with
horror. Perhaps for an emergency repair in the field - but to build a
project as in that pic?

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 13:26:37 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:


http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118


That ain't gonna work ;-)


(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


Brilliant. ;-)

But the very idea of using a gas flame type iron on a PCB fills me with
horror. Perhaps for an emergency repair in the field - but to build a
project as in that pic?


I thought soldering to the top of the board rather than the underneath was the worse error. We use a hot air gun to solder and desolder some things but never a flame.

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On 15/11/2016 13:36, whisky-dave wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 13:26:37 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:


http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118


That ain't gonna work ;-)


(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


Brilliant. ;-)

But the very idea of using a gas flame type iron on a PCB fills me with
horror. Perhaps for an emergency repair in the field - but to build a
project as in that pic?


I thought soldering to the top of the board rather than the underneath was the worse error. We use a hot air gun to solder and desolder some things but never a flame.

It looks similar to a gas-powered iron I had as a field engineer years
ago: the flame heated some sort of catalyst behind the tip, so no flame
gets near the work. You still needed to be careful with it- only good
for emergency use (and for shrinking heatshrink).
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On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 12:09:38 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


The heat should shrink the plastic sleeve out the way, and melt what remains. The iron likely has enough grunt to solder to the cap's case, which is connected to -ve, so it should work... for some odd value of work.


NT


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On 15/11/16 14:26, wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 12:09:38 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


The heat should shrink the plastic sleeve out the way, and melt what remains. The iron likely has enough grunt to solder to the cap's case, which is connected to -ve, so it should work... for some odd value of work.


NT

I've used something similar for field repairs to RC model planes etc,
many years ago.

It's pretty handy for car work too - solder is in many ways better than
crimps if its mechanically supported.


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In article ,
wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 12:09:38 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


The heat should shrink the plastic sleeve out the way, and melt what
remains. The iron likely has enough grunt to solder to the cap's case,
which is connected to -ve, so it should work... for some odd value of
work.


Hardly. It appears to be a single sided board. The heat would need to
transfer from the case of the cap to the lead - and you'd still not get
the multicore near the work. Then you have the problem of the positive...

--
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To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On 15/11/2016 14:47, pamela wrote:
On 12:09 15 Nov 2016, John Rumm wrote:

I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


Corr, you must have good vision to have spotted that lettering!


Na, I have a zoom function ;-)

http://imagezoom.yellowgorilla.net/

--
Cheers,

John.

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On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 14:34:44 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 12:09:38 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


The heat should shrink the plastic sleeve out the way, and melt what
remains. The iron likely has enough grunt to solder to the cap's case,
which is connected to -ve, so it should work... for some odd value of
work.


Hardly. It appears to be a single sided board. The heat would need to
transfer from the case of the cap to the lead - and you'd still not get
the multicore near the work. Then you have the problem of the positive...


You've completely misunderstood.


NT
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On Tue, 15 Nov 2016 14:52:38 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

On 15/11/2016 14:47, pamela wrote:
On 12:09 15 Nov 2016, John Rumm wrote:

I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


Corr, you must have good vision to have spotted that lettering!


Na, I have a zoom function ;-)

http://imagezoom.yellowgorilla.net/


I suppose it's covered by "Images are for illustrative purposes only",
although how that works as a disclaimer has always escaped me.




--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%


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In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:


http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118


That ain't gonna work ;-)


(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


Good to know it meets the relevant US child standard. The photographer has
some way to go.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On 15/11/2016 15:11, wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 14:34:44 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 12:09:38 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


The heat should shrink the plastic sleeve out the way, and melt what
remains. The iron likely has enough grunt to solder to the cap's case,
which is connected to -ve, so it should work... for some odd value of
work.


Hardly. It appears to be a single sided board. The heat would need to
transfer from the case of the cap to the lead - and you'd still not get
the multicore near the work. Then you have the problem of the positive...


You've completely misunderstood.


Me too then... no amount of soldering to the case is going to move the
tracks on the PCB to that side!


--
Cheers,

John.

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|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
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On 15/11/2016 16:09, Tim Streater wrote:
In article , John
Rumm wrote:

On 15/11/2016 14:47, pamela wrote:
On 12:09 15 Nov 2016, John Rumm wrote:

I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


Corr, you must have good vision to have spotted that lettering!


Na, I have a zoom function ;-)

http://imagezoom.yellowgorilla.net/


I just hold the Control key down and scroll the mouse button.
Everything zooms.


Yup that works, but zooms everything...

I find that for looking at an image closely, right clicking and doing a
"view image" to open it in a new tab by itself, and then zooming that
works well.


--
Cheers,

John.

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|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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In article ,
Tim Streater wrote:
In article , John
Rumm wrote:


On 15/11/2016 16:09, Tim Streater wrote:
In article , John
Rumm wrote:

On 15/11/2016 14:47, pamela wrote:
On 12:09 15 Nov 2016, John Rumm wrote:

I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


Corr, you must have good vision to have spotted that lettering!

Na, I have a zoom function ;-)

http://imagezoom.yellowgorilla.net/

I just hold the Control key down and scroll the mouse button.
Everything zooms.


Yup that works, but zooms everything...

I find that for looking at an image closely, right clicking and doing a
"view image" to open it in a new tab by itself, and then zooming that
works well.


Unfortunately that image doesn't have enough resolution.


Are you viewing it on a phone? The Q1 legend is clearly visible here
without zooming or whatever. Just above C11.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On 15/11/2016 14:12, Chris Bartram wrote:
On 15/11/2016 13:36, whisky-dave wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 13:26:37 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)

Brilliant. ;-)

But the very idea of using a gas flame type iron on a PCB fills me with
horror. Perhaps for an emergency repair in the field - but to build a
project as in that pic?


I thought soldering to the top of the board rather than the underneath
was the worse error. We use a hot air gun to solder and desolder some
things but never a flame.

It looks similar to a gas-powered iron I had as a field engineer years
ago: the flame heated some sort of catalyst behind the tip, so no flame
gets near the work. You still needed to be careful with it- only good
for emergency use (and for shrinking heatshrink).


Actually, the gas burns without a flame. The catalyst lowers the
reaction temperature to below the ignition temperature, or something
roughly like that.

Cheers
--
Syd


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In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 15/11/2016 15:11, wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 14:34:44 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 12:09:38 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)

The heat should shrink the plastic sleeve out the way, and melt what
remains. The iron likely has enough grunt to solder to the cap's
case, which is connected to -ve, so it should work... for some odd
value of work.

Hardly. It appears to be a single sided board. The heat would need to
transfer from the case of the cap to the lead - and you'd still not
get the multicore near the work. Then you have the problem of the
positive...


You've completely misunderstood.


Me too then... no amount of soldering to the case is going to move the
tracks on the PCB to that side!


I've read Mr Purr's comment again and still don't get it. ;-)

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On 15/11/16 17:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Unfortunately that image doesn't have enough resolution.


Are you viewing it on a phone? The Q1 legend is clearly visible here
without zooming or whatever. Just above C11.


That PCB seems to be from a 30 Watt stereo amplifier assembly kit.

https://diyfamily.wordpress.com/tag/el-0293-3/

Someone has been studying that aforementioned Ladybird book ... it looks
nice!

--
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On 15/11/2016 17:10, Syd Rumpo wrote:
Actually, the gas burns without a flame. The catalyst lowers the
reaction temperature to below the ignition temperature, or something
roughly like that.


But it says "Electronic instant ignition system".

--
Mike Clarke
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John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118


And how to stab an antique PC motherboard with a screwdriver:
http://onecall.farnell.com/wcsstore/...call-nov16.jpg
(with unusual green heatsink)

Theo
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In article
,
says...

I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


The real failure is not having a pretty girl, in a white
coat and safety glasses, holding the torch.


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On 15/11/2016 18:13, Mike Clarke wrote:
On 15/11/2016 17:10, Syd Rumpo wrote:
Actually, the gas burns without a flame. The catalyst lowers the
reaction temperature to below the ignition temperature, or something
roughly like that.


But it says "Electronic instant ignition system".


With the catalytic heads, you turn on the gas and then fire the igniter.
It lights with a flame which burns for a few seconds to heat the
catalyst and then goes out (or you blow it out). The catalyst then glows
red and produces lots of heat, but there no flame any more.


--
Cheers,

John.

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On 11/15/2016 1:22 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:


http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118


That ain't gonna work ;-)


(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


Brilliant. ;-)

But the very idea of using a gas flame type iron on a PCB fills me with
horror. Perhaps for an emergency repair in the field - but to build a
project as in that pic?

Not using the flame here, that one has a conventional bit heated by the
flame.

I have a flame-only torch with that configuration, and a pen-type one
with "bits". I think I have used the latter once for soldering on a car,
when I didn't readily have a power supply to hand for a conventional
soldering iron. I regularly use the flame one on heat shrink though,
e.g. after crimping.
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On Tue, 15 Nov 2016 13:22:39 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:


http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118


That ain't gonna work ;-)


(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


Brilliant. ;-)

But the very idea of using a gas flame type iron on a PCB fills me with
horror. Perhaps for an emergency repair in the field - but to build a
project as in that pic?


That, and how did they get a TO220 into a TO92 set of holes and soldering
the wrong side of the PCB - who ever is it who creates this stuff

Avpx


--
And then there were the frogs. Very, very small frogs. They had such a
tiny life cycle it still had trainer wheels on it.
(Wings)
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Dave Plowman (News) presented the following explanation :
Are you viewing it on a phone? The Q1 legend is clearly visible here
without zooming or whatever. Just above C11.


Perfectly clear on my laptop's screen..
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"Sam Plusnet" wrote in message
...
In article
,
says...

I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


The real failure is not having a pretty girl, in a white
coat and safety glasses, holding the torch.


I suggest visiting the Lidl website, which regularly features glamourous
people holding drills at funny angles against random objects.
--
Dave W




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On Tue, 15 Nov 2016 17:26:23 +0000, Adrian Caspersz
wrote:

On 15/11/16 17:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Unfortunately that image doesn't have enough resolution.


Are you viewing it on a phone? The Q1 legend is clearly visible here
without zooming or whatever. Just above C11.


That PCB seems to be from a 30 Watt stereo amplifier assembly kit.

https://diyfamily.wordpress.com/tag/el-0293-3/

Someone has been studying that aforementioned Ladybird book ... it looks
nice!

How did you match that image? I tried Google Images and Tineye without
a result.


--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%
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On 15/11/2016 20:29, The Nomad wrote:
On Tue, 15 Nov 2016 13:22:39 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:


http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118


That ain't gonna work ;-)


(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


Brilliant. ;-)

But the very idea of using a gas flame type iron on a PCB fills me with
horror. Perhaps for an emergency repair in the field - but to build a
project as in that pic?


That, and how did they get a TO220 into a TO92 set of holes and soldering
the wrong side of the PCB - who ever is it who creates this stuff


It was that which made me look more closely at the other component postions!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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On 15/11/16 22:51, Graham. wrote:

https://diyfamily.wordpress.com/tag/el-0293-3/

Someone has been studying that aforementioned Ladybird book ... it looks
nice!

How did you match that image? I tried Google Images and Tineye without
a result.


lol, I spend a lot of time looking at legends....

"EL-0293-3"

--
Adrian C
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On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 17:11:02 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 15/11/2016 15:11, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 14:34:44 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 12:09:38 UTC, John Rumm wrote:


I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)

The heat should shrink the plastic sleeve out the way, and melt what
remains. The iron likely has enough grunt to solder to the cap's
case, which is connected to -ve, so it should work... for some odd
value of work.

Hardly. It appears to be a single sided board. The heat would need to
transfer from the case of the cap to the lead - and you'd still not
get the multicore near the work. Then you have the problem of the
positive...

You've completely misunderstood.


Me too then... no amount of soldering to the case is going to move the
tracks on the PCB to that side!


I've read Mr Purr's comment again and still don't get it. ;-)


The iron is being held against the case. There's no possibility that could ever solder the leads, you'd have to destroy the cap to ever get the leads hot enough that way. But you could possibly solder a wire to the case of the cap where the iron bit is. Why you'd do so is another question... but it's physically possible.

Actually I think I did do that once, in my early years. Parts cost real money then, and one had a lead snapped completely off.


NT
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On Tuesday, November 15, 2016 at 10:23:41 PM UTC, Dave W wrote:
"Sam Plusnet" wrote in message
...
In article
,
says...

I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


The real failure is not having a pretty girl, in a white
coat and safety glasses, holding the torch.


I suggest visiting the Lidl website, which regularly features glamourous
people holding drills at funny angles against random objects.


I remember a review of a tower-case server in a PC mag yonks ago. The article featured a glamorous young lady with spectacles, lab coat, clipboard and pencil pressed to her lips, with the tag line "IT'S SO BIG!".

I would say you don't get stuff like that any more, but there are the occasional gems to be found in back pages of classic car magazines.


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On 15/11/2016 19:32, John Rumm wrote:
On 15/11/2016 18:13, Mike Clarke wrote:
On 15/11/2016 17:10, Syd Rumpo wrote:
Actually, the gas burns without a flame. The catalyst lowers the
reaction temperature to below the ignition temperature, or something
roughly like that.


But it says "Electronic instant ignition system".


With the catalytic heads, you turn on the gas and then fire the igniter.
It lights with a flame which burns for a few seconds to heat the
catalyst and then goes out (or you blow it out). The catalyst then glows
red and produces lots of heat, but there no flame any more.


Of course. Yes, you're both right (Sid & John). I remember now.
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On 16/11/16 07:39, Halmyre wrote:
I remember a review of a tower-case server in a PC mag yonks ago. The
article featured a glamorous young lady with spectacles, lab coat,
clipboard and pencil pressed to her lips, with the tag line "IT'S SO
BIG!".

I would say you don't get stuff like that any more, but there are the
occasional gems to be found in back pages of classic car magazines.

Ah the days when people didn't pretend sex didn't exist in the middle
calsses.



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I thought gas powered irons for electronic use used catalysts, not flames.
Brian

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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I had to laugh:


http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118

That ain't gonna work ;-)


(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened for Q1!)


Brilliant. ;-)

But the very idea of using a gas flame type iron on a PCB fills me with
horror. Perhaps for an emergency repair in the field - but to build a
project as in that pic?

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In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
I thought gas powered irons for electronic use used catalysts, not
flames.


If they are good for heatshrink means they must have a blast of hot air
coming out the sides, etc.

Not something I want when soldering a PCB.

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On 16/11/2016 02:41, wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 17:11:02 UTC, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 15/11/2016 15:11, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 14:34:44 UTC, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:
In article
,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 12:09:38 UTC, John Rumm
wrote:


I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118



That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened
for Q1!)

The heat should shrink the plastic sleeve out the way, and
melt what remains. The iron likely has enough grunt to
solder to the cap's case, which is connected to -ve, so it
should work... for some odd value of work.

Hardly. It appears to be a single sided board. The heat would
need to transfer from the case of the cap to the lead - and
you'd still not get the multicore near the work. Then you
have the problem of the positive...

You've completely misunderstood.


Me too then... no amount of soldering to the case is going to
move the tracks on the PCB to that side!


I've read Mr Purr's comment again and still don't get it. ;-)


The iron is being held against the case. There's no possibility that
could ever solder the leads, you'd have to destroy the cap to ever
get the leads hot enough that way. But you could possibly solder a
wire to the case of the cap where the iron bit is. Why you'd do so is
another question... but it's physically possible.

Actually I think I did do that once, in my early years. Parts cost
real money then, and one had a lead snapped completely off.


I think we understood that you could solder to the can. The question was
what use that was going to be with the PCB tracks on the other side of
the board?

(or are you suggesting you solder a wire to the can, route that to the
obverse, and then solder to a track?)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


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On Wednesday, 16 November 2016 11:00:37 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 16/11/2016 02:41, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 17:11:02 UTC, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 15/11/2016 15:11, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 14:34:44 UTC, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:
In article
,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 12:09:38 UTC, John Rumm
wrote:


I had to laugh:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christm...S?promo=DK7118



That ain't gonna work ;-)

(even if you ignore the cap in the space silk screened
for Q1!)

The heat should shrink the plastic sleeve out the way, and
melt what remains. The iron likely has enough grunt to
solder to the cap's case, which is connected to -ve, so it
should work... for some odd value of work.

Hardly. It appears to be a single sided board. The heat would
need to transfer from the case of the cap to the lead - and
you'd still not get the multicore near the work. Then you
have the problem of the positive...

You've completely misunderstood.

Me too then... no amount of soldering to the case is going to
move the tracks on the PCB to that side!

I've read Mr Purr's comment again and still don't get it. ;-)


The iron is being held against the case. There's no possibility that
could ever solder the leads, you'd have to destroy the cap to ever
get the leads hot enough that way. But you could possibly solder a
wire to the case of the cap where the iron bit is. Why you'd do so is
another question... but it's physically possible.

Actually I think I did do that once, in my early years. Parts cost
real money then, and one had a lead snapped completely off.


I think we understood that you could solder to the can. The question was
what use that was going to be with the PCB tracks on the other side of
the board?

(or are you suggesting you solder a wire to the can, route that to the
obverse, and then solder to a track?)


I wouldn't suggest doing any of it. Just pointing out that in theory one can solder that way.


NT
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In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I've read Mr Purr's comment again and still don't get it. ;-)


The iron is being held against the case. There's no possibility that
could ever solder the leads, you'd have to destroy the cap to ever
get the leads hot enough that way. But you could possibly solder a
wire to the case of the cap where the iron bit is. Why you'd do so is
another question... but it's physically possible.

Actually I think I did do that once, in my early years. Parts cost
real money then, and one had a lead snapped completely off.


I think we understood that you could solder to the can.


All the ones I have here are aluminium. I assumed it was meant that enough
heat on the can would transfer to the leads. Not sure how much good that
would to the cap, though.


The question was what use that was going to be with the PCB tracks on
the other side of the board?



(or are you suggesting you solder a wire to the can, route that to the
obverse, and then solder to a track?)


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In article ,
wrote:
Me too then... no amount of soldering to the case is going to
move the tracks on the PCB to that side!

I've read Mr Purr's comment again and still don't get it. ;-)

The iron is being held against the case. There's no possibility that
could ever solder the leads, you'd have to destroy the cap to ever
get the leads hot enough that way. But you could possibly solder a
wire to the case of the cap where the iron bit is. Why you'd do so is
another question... but it's physically possible.

Actually I think I did do that once, in my early years. Parts cost
real money then, and one had a lead snapped completely off.


I think we understood that you could solder to the can. The question
was what use that was going to be with the PCB tracks on the other
side of the board?

(or are you suggesting you solder a wire to the can, route that to the
obverse, and then solder to a track?)


I wouldn't suggest doing any of it. Just pointing out that in theory one
can solder that way.


Odd theory. I'm sure we've all come across situations where it would be
good to be able to replace a component without dismantling to get at the
solder side - and you *might* be able to with a resistor etc with exposed
leads. But not with a cap like that, sadly.

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On 16/11/2016 10:55, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
I thought gas powered irons for electronic use used catalysts, not
flames.


If they are good for heatshrink means they must have a blast of hot air
coming out the sides, etc.


Yes, they so, or at least radiated heat.

Not something I want when soldering a PCB.

No. I never tried that, only used it for connectors and the odd splice.
I'd not want to use one for a PCB.
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In article ,
Chris Bartram wrote:
On 16/11/2016 10:55, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
I thought gas powered irons for electronic use used catalysts, not
flames.


If they are good for heatshrink means they must have a blast of hot air
coming out the sides, etc.


Yes, they so, or at least radiated heat.


In which case any soldering iron would do?

I have a hot air rework station. Turn the temp down on that and it's ideal
for heatshrink. Actually gets used more for that than soldering. ;-)

Not something I want when soldering a PCB.

No. I never tried that, only used it for connectors and the odd splice.
I'd not want to use one for a PCB.


It's one of those things I've simply never found the need for.

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