On Wednesday, 16 November 2016 13:31:19 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:

I've read Mr Purr's comment again and still don't get it. ;-)

The iron is being held against the case. There's no possibility that
could ever solder the leads, you'd have to destroy the cap to ever
get the leads hot enough that way. But you could possibly solder a
wire to the case of the cap where the iron bit is. Why you'd do so is
another question... but it's physically possible.

Actually I think I did do that once, in my early years. Parts cost
real money then, and one had a lead snapped completely off.

I think we understood that you could solder to the can.

All the ones I have here are aluminium.

Al can be soldered with suitable flux

I assumed it was meant that enough
heat on the can would transfer to the leads. Not sure how much good that
would to the cap, though.

You'd need the leads to hit over 220C, and the stuffing looks fairly thermally insulating. The cap would be history.


NT

In article ,
wrote:
On Wednesday, 16 November 2016 13:31:19 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:

I've read Mr Purr's comment again and still don't get it. ;-)

The iron is being held against the case. There's no possibility
that could ever solder the leads, you'd have to destroy the cap to
ever get the leads hot enough that way. But you could possibly
solder a wire to the case of the cap where the iron bit is. Why
you'd do so is another question... but it's physically possible.

Actually I think I did do that once, in my early years. Parts cost
real money then, and one had a lead snapped completely off.

I think we understood that you could solder to the can.

All the ones I have here are aluminium.

Al can be soldered with suitable flux

It can be welded too. Not sure I'd want to do either on a PCB. ;-)

I assumed it was meant that enough heat on the can would transfer to
the leads. Not sure how much good that would to the cap, though.

You'd need the leads to hit over 220C, and the stuffing looks fairly
thermally insulating. The cap would be history.


Yup.

--
*Avoid clichés like the plague. (They're old hat.) *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 16/11/2016 13:26, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
Me too then... no amount of soldering to the case is going to
move the tracks on the PCB to that side!

I've read Mr Purr's comment again and still don't get it. ;-)

The iron is being held against the case. There's no possibility that
could ever solder the leads, you'd have to destroy the cap to ever
get the leads hot enough that way. But you could possibly solder a
wire to the case of the cap where the iron bit is. Why you'd do so is
another question... but it's physically possible.

Actually I think I did do that once, in my early years. Parts cost
real money then, and one had a lead snapped completely off.

I think we understood that you could solder to the can. The question
was what use that was going to be with the PCB tracks on the other
side of the board?

(or are you suggesting you solder a wire to the can, route that to the
obverse, and then solder to a track?)

I wouldn't suggest doing any of it. Just pointing out that in theory one
can solder that way.

Odd theory. I'm sure we've all come across situations where it would be
good to be able to replace a component without dismantling to get at the
solder side - and you *might* be able to with a resistor etc with exposed
leads. But not with a cap like that, sadly.

Well if its not too tight onto the board you can usually get slim
cutters or a knife under it and shear the legs off. Then solder the new
cap to the legs. Makes some sense for smoothing caps on boards with
heavy heat plane or power vias which can be very difficult to desolder
from in the conventional way.


--
Cheers,

John.

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