Hi all. Originally, I had a problem with mould (caused by
condensation hitting an outside wall) behind my bed in a modern
house.

I have today discovered that, - contrary to my original belief,
the wall in question is _actually_ a cavity wall!

The wall is the whole side of the house and is of concrete-block
construction, rendered on the outside. The house is built into a
hillside and can be seen he-

http://www.coakley.co.uk/personal/ne...rontview_1.JPG

Now, I am still having a great deal of trouble with mould, - now
apparent in both upstairs rooms against this wall. Also, inside
the house the wall itself is very cold to the touch.

Can anyone tell me... is there an effective way to cavity-fill
the wall, - and will this help cure my mould/condensation problem
inside the house?

Appreciate all help offered....

H.

--
Howard Coakley
e-mail... howarddot}coakleyatcoakleydot].codotuk
ICQ:4502837. (Try ICQ at www.icq.com)

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Howie wrote:

Hi all. Originally, I had a problem with mould (caused by
condensation hitting an outside wall) behind my bed in a modern
house.

I have today discovered that, - contrary to my original belief,
the wall in question is _actually_ a cavity wall!

The wall is the whole side of the house and is of concrete-block
construction, rendered on the outside. The house is built into a
hillside and can be seen he-

http://www.coakley.co.uk/personal/ne...rontview_1.JPG

Now, I am still having a great deal of trouble with mould, - now
apparent in both upstairs rooms against this wall. Also, inside
the house the wall itself is very cold to the touch.

Can anyone tell me... is there an effective way to cavity-fill
the wall, - and will this help cure my mould/condensation problem
inside the house?

Appreciate all help offered....

H.


Nice picture - but a bit more jpeg compression would have been good!

When you say that the house is built into the hillside, are you saying that
there is soil in contact with the walls *above* the DPC? If so, the outer
layer of blocks is going to absorb water from the soil, and it only takes a
bit of mortar on the occasional tie to make a bridge to bring it to the
inner layer.

You need first to address these issues to stop the water getting in. Then -
and only then - will cavity wall insulation help to keep the inner layer
warm. If you install it before curing the damp, it will make the damp worse!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 18:14:41 +0000, Howie
wrote:



Now, I am still having a great deal of trouble with mould, - now
apparent in both upstairs rooms against this wall. Also, inside
the house the wall itself is very cold to the touch.

Can anyone tell me... is there an effective way to cavity-fill
the wall, - and will this help cure my mould/condensation problem
inside the house?

You appear to have double glazed windows and no ventilators. The
first priority should be effective ventilation - without this no
other solution will be particularly effective.

The mould is growing where moist air is condensing, having a cavity
wall will reduce but not eliminate this. It will occur usually on
the east side, or on exposed corners, or anywhere else the wall
temperature can be a touch below everywhere else. Places where air is
trapped (built in wardrobes, behind wardrobes, behind bed heads,
anything against a wall) are particularly prone to condensation.

Anything which puts a lot of moisture into the atmosphere will make
it much worse (showers in rooms where there is no ventilation or it
doesn't run on for at least an hour after the shower, drying clothes,
cooking) as will backing off the heating as you go out in the morning
after all having showered. Closing bedroom doors is another dreadful
thing - each person looses about a pint of water overnight in the
form of vapour. Leaving bedrooms closed and unventilated invites
mould growth.

The priority must be on getting rid of the moisture before indulging
in other solutions. Try a medium sized dehumidifier running all day
(they are usually too noisy to run all night) near the problem areas
for a start. Invest in a whole house ventilation system before
cavity insulation.

--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/

Nice picture. Is the room in question the bit on the left with the ivy
growing over it? Is there a flat roof? Was it an extension? If the answer to
these questions is yes, then I'd grit my teeth and excavate the hillside so
that I could get at the outside of the wall, strip the rendering if present,
replace the rendering with a waterproofing additive and give it 3 coats of
bitumen. Yuk!
( I'd also replace the flat roof with a pitched one) There is also the
nasty thought that the extension has bridged the cavity of the main wall.
Happy New Year?
Regards
Capitol

"Howie" wrote in message
...
Hi all. Originally, I had a problem with mould (caused by
condensation hitting an outside wall) behind my bed in a modern
house.

I have today discovered that, - contrary to my original belief,
the wall in question is _actually_ a cavity wall!

The wall is the whole side of the house and is of concrete-block
construction, rendered on the outside. The house is built into a
hillside and can be seen he-

http://www.coakley.co.uk/personal/ne...rontview_1.JPG

Why on Earth didn't you crop that picture - we don't need all those trees,
tarmac and other houses! Huge pictures like yours take a l-o-n-g time to
load.


Can anyone tell me... is there an effective way to cavity-fill
the wall, - and will this help cure my mould/condensation problem
inside the house?

We had rockwool cavity wall insulation installed some years ago. We hadn't
had a damp problem before this but afterwards the house had a more even
temperature and we noticed that the windows were showing more condensation
than before, presumably because the walls were then less cold than the glass
(double glazed).

In case what I said is misinterpreted, we haven't had a damp problem since
either. The house is a 1937 brick built semi.

Mary

Capitol wrote:

Nice picture. Is the room in question the bit on the left with the ivy
growing over it? Is there a flat roof? Was it an extension? If the answer to
these questions is yes, then I'd grit my teeth and excavate the hillside so
that I could get at the outside of the wall, strip the rendering if present,
replace the rendering with a waterproofing additive and give it 3 coats of
bitumen. Yuk!


And THEN put in 4-6" of plystyrene sheet OUTSIDE the house before
backfilling with gravel, and then replacing topsoil.

I saw a cellared house being built in germany,. The whole underground
section was surronded by insulation - possibley to protect against soil
moivement, but certainly to keep it warm.


( I'd also replace the flat roof with a pitched one) There is also the
nasty thought that the extension has bridged the cavity of the main wall.
Happy New Year?
Regards
Capitol

On Sun, 4 Jan 2004 18:55:00 -0000, "Set Square"
wrote:

|Nice picture - but a bit more jpeg compression would have been good!

I know. - Sorry. I forget that most people don't have broadband!
This is how the picture was taken and stored on my hard disk :-0

|When you say that the house is built into the hillside, are you saying that
|there is soil in contact with the walls *above* the DPC?

No. It's not a rising damp problem. It's definately a
condensation/mould problem.

| If so, the outer
|layer of blocks is going to absorb water from the soil, and it only takes a
|bit of mortar on the occasional tie to make a bridge to bring it to the
|inner layer.
|
|You need first to address these issues to stop the water getting in. Then -
|and only then - will cavity wall insulation help to keep the inner layer
|warm. If you install it before curing the damp, it will make the damp worse!

Definately not water getting in. But, thanks.

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 21:25:56 +0000, Peter Parry
wrote:

|You appear to have double glazed windows and no ventilators. The
|first priority should be effective ventilation - without this no
|other solution will be particularly effective.

Sinc my original question a few weeks ago, I have been opening
all the windows in the bedrooms during the day and been running
the heating for an hour or so twice a day. This should be more
than enough to make up for a lack of trickle vents (I was told),
- until I have time to fit some.

|The mould is growing where moist air is condensing, having a cavity
|wall will reduce but not eliminate this. It will occur usually on
|the east side, or on exposed corners, or anywhere else the wall
|temperature can be a touch below everywhere else. Places where air is
|trapped (built in wardrobes, behind wardrobes, behind bed heads,
|anything against a wall) are particularly prone to condensation.

Yep. This is exactly what is happening. Mould behind furniture
and in the corners higher up.
|
|Anything which puts a lot of moisture into the atmosphere will make
|it much worse (showers in rooms where there is no ventilation or it
|doesn't run on for at least an hour after the shower, drying clothes,
|cooking) as will backing off the heating as you go out in the morning
|after all having showered. Closing bedroom doors is another dreadful
|thing - each person looses about a pint of water overnight in the
|form of vapour. Leaving bedrooms closed and unventilated invites
|mould growth.

I've eliminated those issues - I'm sure (see previous reply).
However, the problem is still there after 6 weeks of open windows
and heated bedrooms. I must point out that I have never actually
seen or felt condensation on the walls. But the mould is growing
:-0

|The priority must be on getting rid of the moisture before indulging
|in other solutions. Try a medium sized dehumidifier running all day
|(they are usually too noisy to run all night) near the problem areas
|for a start. Invest in a whole house ventilation system before
|cavity insulation.

OK. But I must say that the wall is _SO_ cold to the touch that I
can't see how moisture can leave it alone! I am convinced that
cavitly-filling is unavoidable, - eventually. However, I know
nothing of the process or costs. Anyone have this info?

H.

On Sun, 4 Jan 2004 21:36:32 -0000, "Capitol"
wrote:

|Nice picture. Is the room in question the bit on the left with the ivy
|growing over it?

Ah, I see what you mean. It's an optical illusion. The
ivy-covered wall is in the garden - not joined to the house wall
at all! Between this and the house is a set of concrete steps all
up the side of the property.

| Is there a flat roof?

No.

| Was it an extension?

No. The exterior of the house has had no modifications at all.

|If the answer to
|these questions is yes, then I'd grit my teeth and excavate the hillside so
|that I could get at the outside of the wall, strip the rendering if present,
|replace the rendering with a waterproofing additive and give it 3 coats of
|bitumen. Yuk!

Glad I don't have to do that then!

|( I'd also replace the flat roof with a pitched one) There is also the
|nasty thought that the extension has bridged the cavity of the main wall.

At least your reply has made me feel a bit better. At least
because I don't have to go to those lengths!

Thanks.

On Sun, 4 Jan 2004 22:57:57 -0000, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:

|Why on Earth didn't you crop that picture - we don't need all those trees,
|tarmac and other houses! Huge pictures like yours take a l-o-n-g time to
|load.

Yes, yes. I know. Sorry.

snip
|We had rockwool cavity wall insulation installed some years ago. We hadn't
|had a damp problem before this but afterwards the house had a more even
|temperature and we noticed that the windows were showing more condensation
|than before, presumably because the walls were then less cold than the glass
|(double glazed).
|
|In case what I said is misinterpreted, we haven't had a damp problem since
|either. The house is a 1937 brick built semi.
|
Thanks Mary. Looks like this is the answer. Is it a messy or very
costly process?

H.

--
Howard Coakley
e-mail... howarddot}coakleyatcoakleydot].codotuk
ICQ:4502837. (Try ICQ at www.icq.com)

On Mon, 05 Jan 2004 10:38:13 +0000, Howie
wrote:

OK. But I must say that the wall is _SO_ cold to the touch that I
can't see how moisture can leave it alone! I am convinced that
cavitly-filling is unavoidable, - eventually. However, I know
nothing of the process or costs. Anyone have this info?

We are having our 4 bed detached house done shortly, using the British
Gas Offer. This is still running (until Jan 9th, the website says
www.house.co.uk/insulation).

It is costing us 200 GBP and, they say, will take about half a day to
do.

The process is to drill 1" holes every 1.25m in the external walls, in
a staggered pattern, and then for them to force rockwool bits into the
cavity under pressure. They then make good the holes. I am expecting a
polka dot effect :-)

In your case, if the offending wall cannot be accessed from outside
then I imagine the holes would have to be made inside, meaning more
mess and more involved making good. This would probably exclude it
from the BG offer.

(As an aside, I am intrigued how a cavity wall could be as cold as you
suggest yours is unless there's one heck of a draught in the cavity.
Cavity walls have a reasonable U value to start with IIRC)

HTH.

Tim Hardisty.
Remove HAT before replying

Tim Hardisty wrote:
On Mon, 05 Jan 2004 10:38:13 +0000, Howie
wrote:

OK. But I must say that the wall is _SO_ cold to the touch that I
can't see how moisture can leave it alone! I am convinced that
cavitly-filling is unavoidable, - eventually. However, I know
nothing of the process or costs. Anyone have this info?

We are having our 4 bed detached house done shortly, using the British
Gas Offer. This is still running (until Jan 9th, the website says
www.house.co.uk/insulation).

It is costing us 200 GBP and, they say, will take about half a day to
do.

The process is to drill 1" holes every 1.25m in the external walls, in
a staggered pattern, and then for them to force rockwool bits into the
cavity under pressure. They then make good the holes. I am expecting a
polka dot effect :-)

In your case, if the offending wall cannot be accessed from outside
then I imagine the holes would have to be made inside, meaning more
mess and more involved making good. This would probably exclude it
from the BG offer.

(As an aside, I am intrigued how a cavity wall could be as cold as you
suggest yours is unless there's one heck of a draught in the cavity.
Cavity walls have a reasonable U value to start with IIRC)

HTH.

Tim Hardisty.
Remove HAT before replying

I had my house insulated under the same scheme. They won't do any walls that
aren't easily accessible from the outside.
Full cost for 4 bed detached house now is £600.

What the OP has not shown us is the back of the house.
If the outside wall is indeed in contact with the hillside and has not been
tanked properly (or the tanking has failed) then that is where the problem
lies...If so, expensive to put right.
There was such a situation on Property Ladder not long ago and they ended up
with a spring in the middle of the lounge floor.

"Howie" wrote in message
...


snip
had rockwool cavity wall insulation

snip

|
Thanks Mary. Looks like this is the answer. Is it a messy or very
costly process?

Not at all messy. The Big Van stays in the street, it's a bit noisy and
rumbly while the motor blows the stuff through holes pre-drilled at
intervals by the contractor. There was absolutely no mess. Ours took a
couple of hours I think, not much more. The holes were made good, we didn't
think it was expensive as a long term insulation project.

I'd advise against taking a huge amount of notice of tempting information
about how much you'll save in fuel, that depends on many variables. The
overall comfort in our house, a more even temperature throughout the house
with no cold patches, made it worthwhile without thinking of how much fuel
we might or might not have saved.

Although I do hope that, on environmental grounds, we're not burning as much
gas ...

Mary

H.

--
Howard Coakley
e-mail... howarddot}coakleyatcoakleydot].codotuk
ICQ:4502837. (Try ICQ at www.icq.com)

"Tim Hardisty" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 05 Jan 2004 10:38:13 +0000, Howie

The process is to drill 1" holes every 1.25m in the external walls, in
a staggered pattern, and then for them to force rockwool bits into the
cavity under pressure. They then make good the holes. I am expecting a
polka dot effect :-)

You won't notice it unless you look hard. Our pointing is red mastic, they
used regular mortar to make good. I thought it would be obvious but it
isn't.

Mary

Hi,

Is the render porous in any way? Any rain landing on a wall in that
situation (surrounded by trees and sheltered by a hill) is not going
to dry off quickly, and will soak into the render given the chance.

Something else to consider is that a wall has a high thermal mass so
will remain cold for some time after the heating has switched on,
especially if it is damp. Heating the house for short periods could
make the problem worse as it will allow moisture removed from
elsewhere in the house to condense on the walls before they have a
chance to warm up.

A better way might be to continiously heat the rooms with sufficient
background heat, leaving the doors partly open so the warm damp air
can find it's way out of the room. Or, use a dehumidifier.

Mould also tends to thrive where there is a lack of air movement, so
moving furniture away from outside walls will help. Even a few tube
heaters below problem areas will greatly help air circulation.

I'd expect the same house in an open situation would not suffer damp
problems, the developer probably used a standard design without
tailoring it to the surroundings. Your roof looks like it has some
moss on the top which indicates how damp the surrounding environment
is.

Looks like cavity wall insulation could be the way to go, it will make
the rooms easier and cheaper to heat too, but it might be worth
consulting an expert on damp to get their opinion.

Anyway sorry for rambling on, hope this helps in some way,
Pete

On Mon, 5 Jan 2004 18:47:04 -0000, "BillR"
wrote:


|I had my house insulated under the same scheme. They won't do any walls that
|aren't easily accessible from the outside.
|Full cost for 4 bed detached house now is £600.
|
|What the OP has not shown us is the back of the house.
|If the outside wall is indeed in contact with the hillside and has not been
|tanked properly (or the tanking has failed) then that is where the problem
|lies...If so, expensive to put right.
|There was such a situation on Property Ladder not long ago and they ended up
|with a spring in the middle of the lounge floor.
|
Hi,

Sorry, not familiar with the term 'tanking'. Could you explain
what this is please? However, I am fairly sure that the rear of
the house is fine. Also, it's 10 metres away from my furthermost
mould problem!
FYI, the rear is only one-story high because of the hillside.
There is a utility room at underground level inside at the rear,
and although parts of these walls below ground (huge exterior
concrete blocks set on cast-concrete) are showing some dampness
from the hillside, the room itself it's quite dry and well
ventilated with eight (yes - eight) brick vents all around.
Strangely though - the rear wall above ground level seems to be
of timber construction with tile cladding over the top. Similar
in looks to the picture of the front of the house. Sounds hollow
(like a stud wall) when I knock on it from inside.

I have another (large, uncropped, and therefore downoad-time
consuming) view of the rear of the property he
http://www.coakley.co.uk/personal/ne...ckgarden_6.jpg

Sorry these images are big - but I have piccies of the whole
house stored in my web directory
http://www.coakley.co.uk/personal/newhouse/
So, if you're REALLY bored you can look over the whole property
inside and out!

Thinking about it, I suppose that the moisture inside the house
could be higher than normal because of the hillside effectively
evaporating run-off water through my rear 'foundation walls'.
This could be adding to the condensation/mould problem. However,
the house certainly does not feel damp anywhere, the walls are
not wet to the touch and the mould itself is only really evident
in the bedrooms - against my problematic outside side wall. The
only place I can actually see and touch condensation is on the
bedroom windows, - when I forget to open them!

Thanks again.

Howard.

On Mon, 05 Jan 2004 21:48:44 +0000, Pete C
wrote:

|
|Hi,
|
|Is the render porous in any way? Any rain landing on a wall in that
|situation (surrounded by trees and sheltered by a hill) is not going
|to dry off quickly, and will soak into the render given the chance.

I'm sure the render is fine. I drilled holes through it for
aerial cables a few weeks ago and it was like reinforced concrete
to drill through! Also, the drill-dust was very fine and very
dry. The exterior paint is in A1 condition on top of the render.
It all looks very new still (the house is only 35 years old).

|Something else to consider is that a wall has a high thermal mass so
|will remain cold for some time after the heating has switched on,
|especially if it is damp. Heating the house for short periods could
|make the problem worse as it will allow moisture removed from
|elsewhere in the house to condense on the walls before they have a
|chance to warm up.

Ahh. This could be a contributor then. I hate Central Heating at
the best of times and two hours a day is about all I can stand!
|
|A better way might be to continiously heat the rooms with sufficient
|background heat, leaving the doors partly open so the warm damp air
|can find it's way out of the room. Or, use a dehumidifier.
|
|Mould also tends to thrive where there is a lack of air movement, so
|moving furniture away from outside walls will help. Even a few tube
|heaters below problem areas will greatly help air circulation.

I will have a look at this as well, - in that case.
|
|I'd expect the same house in an open situation would not suffer damp
|problems, the developer probably used a standard design without
|tailoring it to the surroundings. Your roof looks like it has some
|moss on the top which indicates how damp the surrounding environment
|is.

True. In the winter this is obviously the case. Although, this
_is_ a south-facing house in 'sunny' Devon, and I'm told by the
neighbours that it's almost unbearable in Summer unless the front
blinds are closed! I'm expecting to make good use of the terrace
(shown on the picture mentioned earlier), throughout the spring,
summer AND autumn!

|Looks like cavity wall insulation could be the way to go, it will make
|the rooms easier and cheaper to heat too, but it might be worth
|consulting an expert on damp to get their opinion.
|
|Anyway sorry for rambling on, hope this helps in some way,
|Pete

Certainly does! Thanks very much for your contribution.

H.

In message , Peter Parry
writes
On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 18:14:41 +0000, Howie
wrote:



Now, I am still having a great deal of trouble with mould, - now
apparent in both upstairs rooms against this wall. Also, inside
the house the wall itself is very cold to the touch.

Can anyone tell me... is there an effective way to cavity-fill
the wall, - and will this help cure my mould/condensation problem
inside the house?

You appear to have double glazed windows and no ventilators. The
first priority should be effective ventilation - without this no
other solution will be particularly effective.

The mould is growing where moist air is condensing, having a cavity
wall will reduce but not eliminate this. It will occur usually on
the east side, or on exposed corners, or anywhere else the wall
temperature can be a touch below everywhere else. Places where air is
trapped (built in wardrobes, behind wardrobes, behind bed heads,
anything against a wall) are particularly prone to condensation.

Anything which puts a lot of moisture into the atmosphere will make
it much worse (showers in rooms where there is no ventilation or it
doesn't run on for at least an hour after the shower, drying clothes,
cooking) as will backing off the heating as you go out in the morning
after all having showered. Closing bedroom doors is another dreadful
thing - each person looses about a pint of water overnight in the
form of vapour. Leaving bedrooms closed and unventilated invites
mould growth.

The priority must be on getting rid of the moisture before indulging
in other solutions. Try a medium sized dehumidifier running all day
(they are usually too noisy to run all night) near the problem areas
for a start. Invest in a whole house ventilation system before
cavity insulation.

Whilst I agree with Peter's advice I would add that we had a very
similar problem with very cold interior walls and mould in two bedrooms.
Our first action was to have cavity wall insulation installed which
provided a dramatic improvement to the apparent temperature of the walls
and ended the appearance of mould. This did, however, cause more
condensation on the double glazed windows which requires additional
ventilation to keep in check.
--
Robert

Robert wrote:


Whilst I agree with Peter's advice I would add that we had a very
similar problem with very cold interior walls and mould in two bedrooms.
Our first action was to have cavity wall insulation installed which
provided a dramatic improvement to the apparent temperature of the walls
and ended the appearance of mould. This did, however, cause more
condensation on the double glazed windows which requires additional
ventilation to keep in check.

We recently moved to a house with full UPVC double glazing and
restricted ventilation.

After about a month, mould was popping up all over, (esp.) behing the
bed head. Made worse by cold non-insulated walls and the Mrs. drying
washing on a clothes horse !!

Got one of them de-humidifer things from B&Q £149 (a faily beefy one as
it's a large 4 bed detatched.)

Had to empty the tank every 6 hours or so for the first few days, then
every day and withing a week condensation/mould vanished never to return.

It's also a real pearl for drying clothes. I shut it in the utility room
sat under the clothes horse whith the Utility room rad. on No. 6 (on
all time) and clothes come from machine and are dry in a couple of hours
tops (even a machine full of towells). When we had high humidity it
took about 2 days to dry the clothes !!

De-humidifiers rock. I am totally converted.

--
http://gymratz.co.uk
The Worlds No1 Fitness & Gym Equipment/nutrition specialists.
http://www.water-rower.co.uk
The ultimate rowing simulator.

"Robert" wrote in message
...

Our first action was to have cavity wall insulation installed which
provided a dramatic improvement to the apparent temperature of the walls
and ended the appearance of mould. This did, however, cause more
condensation on the double glazed windows which requires additional
ventilation to keep in check.

You're the only person who's agreed with me on that matter!

Thanks for making me confident that I wasn't imagining the situation.

Mary
--
Robert

"Pet" wrote in message
...

We recently moved to a house with full UPVC double glazing and
restricted ventilation.

After about a month, mould was popping up all over, (esp.) behing the
bed head. Made worse by cold non-insulated walls and the Mrs. drying
washing on a clothes horse !!


I suggest that you do the clothes drying in the manner you approve.


It's also a real pearl for drying clothes. I shut it in the utility room
sat under the clothes horse whith the Utility room rad. on No. 6 (on
all time) and clothes come from machine and are dry in a couple of hours
tops (even a machine full of towells). When we had high humidity it
took about 2 days to dry the clothes !!

De-humidifiers rock. I am totally converted.

At what use of power?

Mary

--
http://gymratz.co.uk
The Worlds No1 Fitness & Gym Equipment/nutrition specialists.
http://www.water-rower.co.uk
The ultimate rowing simulator.

Mary Fisher wrote:

De-humidifiers rock. I am totally converted.


At what use of power?

Well. It's 350 Watts when the compressor is running, i.e when the
humidity level is too high, after which, the compressor shuts down and
the only thing running is a fan passing air through the unit, so very
little power. Humidity level is adjustable of course.

The smaller units with a lower rate of moisture extraction will have a
lower power consumption when running, but will naturally need to run
longer to extract the same amount of moisture.


--
http://gymratz.co.uk
The Worlds No1 Fitness & Gym Equipment/nutrition specialists.
http://www.water-rower.co.uk
The ultimate rowing simulator.

Mary Fisher wrote:

Our first action was to have cavity wall insulation installed which
provided a dramatic improvement to the apparent temperature of the walls
and ended the appearance of mould. This did, however, cause more
condensation on the double glazed windows which requires additional
ventilation to keep in check.


You're the only person who's agreed with me on that matter!

Thanks for making me confident that I wasn't imagining the situation.

Might I suggest, the increased condensation after CWI could be from
moisture wicking through the wall into your house as the insulation
dries. after a period of time, I would expect the increased condensation
problem to go.

A bit like when you have your walls plastered.

Though I'm not an expert on the subject.

--
http://gymratz.co.uk
The Worlds No1 Fitness & Gym Equipment/nutrition specialists.
http://www.water-rower.co.uk
The ultimate rowing simulator.

"Pet" wrote in message
...
Mary Fisher wrote:

Our first action was to have cavity wall insulation installed which
provided a dramatic improvement to the apparent temperature of the walls
and ended the appearance of mould. This did, however, cause more
condensation on the double glazed windows which requires additional
ventilation to keep in check.


You're the only person who's agreed with me on that matter!

Thanks for making me confident that I wasn't imagining the situation.

Might I suggest, the increased condensation after CWI could be from
moisture wicking through the wall into your house as the insulation
dries. after a period of time, I would expect the increased condensation
problem to go.

A bit like when you have your walls plastered.

Though I'm not an expert on the subject.

I hate to say that's obvious but - well - that's obvious!

:-)

There is no wicking from the insultion, it's entirely impervious to moistur.
and since the effect was instant it couldn't have been like that.

And we still have the same effect, it's not a problem.

Mary