While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking that
this might be contributing to the noise.

On 07/09/2016 11:52, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking that
this might be contributing to the noise.

My guess is that you've bought the cheaper *part 1* type ballvalve. Best
to buy a brass *part 2* ballvalve, these are the equalibrium type and a
lot less susceptible to the problems you are having. They are a bit
dearer, but much better.

Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 11:52, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking that
this might be contributing to the noise.

My guess is that you've bought the cheaper *part 1* type ballvalve. Best
to buy a brass *part 2* ballvalve, these are the equalibrium type and a
lot less susceptible to the problems you are having. They are a bit
dearer, but much better.

Looking at various items on eBay, I'd say that that (part 1) is exactly
what I have bought. TBH, I didn't know there were various kinds
available - I was just happy to be able to get a replacement locally on
a Sunday afternoon :-)

Now I know what to get, thanks.

On 07/09/2016 12:31, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 11:52, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking that
this might be contributing to the noise.

My guess is that you've bought the cheaper *part 1* type ballvalve. Best
to buy a brass *part 2* ballvalve, these are the equalibrium type and a
lot less susceptible to the problems you are having. They are a bit
dearer, but much better.

Looking at various items on eBay, I'd say that that (part 1) is exactly
what I have bought. TBH, I didn't know there were various kinds
available - I was just happy to be able to get a replacement locally on
a Sunday afternoon :-)

Now I know what to get, thanks.

Happy to help.

Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:31, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 11:52, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking
that
this might be contributing to the noise.

My guess is that you've bought the cheaper *part 1* type ballvalve. Best
to buy a brass *part 2* ballvalve, these are the equalibrium type and a
lot less susceptible to the problems you are having. They are a bit
dearer, but much better.

Looking at various items on eBay, I'd say that that (part 1) is exactly
what I have bought. TBH, I didn't know there were various kinds
available - I was just happy to be able to get a replacement locally on
a Sunday afternoon :-)

Now I know what to get, thanks.

Happy to help.

Actually, I've another question, if I may? The header tank has an
overflow pipe (of course), but has a piece inside the tank at 90 degrees
that looks like it should dip into the water. It didn't dip into the
water before I started messing, but I can't imagine that it serves any
purpose without doing so. Should I adjust the water level so that the
tip is submerged?

On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 11:52:59 AM UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking that
this might be contributing to the noise.

Might be dirt in the inlet valve

fred wrote:
On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 11:52:59 AM UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking that
this might be contributing to the noise.

Might be dirt in the inlet valve


I suppose that would be a simple enough thing to check.

On 07/09/2016 12:43, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:31, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 11:52, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but
when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some
kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock
will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all
over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking
that
this might be contributing to the noise.

My guess is that you've bought the cheaper *part 1* type ballvalve.
Best
to buy a brass *part 2* ballvalve, these are the equalibrium type and a
lot less susceptible to the problems you are having. They are a bit
dearer, but much better.

Looking at various items on eBay, I'd say that that (part 1) is exactly
what I have bought. TBH, I didn't know there were various kinds
available - I was just happy to be able to get a replacement locally on
a Sunday afternoon :-)

Now I know what to get, thanks.

Happy to help.

Actually, I've another question, if I may? The header tank has an
overflow pipe (of course), but has a piece inside the tank at 90 degrees
that looks like it should dip into the water. It didn't dip into the
water before I started messing, but I can't imagine that it serves any
purpose without doing so. Should I adjust the water level so that the
tip is submerged?

No, overflow pipes must have an air break to prevent any chance of
syphoning.

Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:43, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:31, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 11:52, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather
stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but
when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to
closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some
kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock
will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all
over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one
had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking
that
this might be contributing to the noise.

My guess is that you've bought the cheaper *part 1* type ballvalve.
Best
to buy a brass *part 2* ballvalve, these are the equalibrium type
and a
lot less susceptible to the problems you are having. They are a bit
dearer, but much better.

Looking at various items on eBay, I'd say that that (part 1) is exactly
what I have bought. TBH, I didn't know there were various kinds
available - I was just happy to be able to get a replacement locally on
a Sunday afternoon :-)

Now I know what to get, thanks.

Happy to help.

Actually, I've another question, if I may? The header tank has an
overflow pipe (of course), but has a piece inside the tank at 90 degrees
that looks like it should dip into the water. It didn't dip into the
water before I started messing, but I can't imagine that it serves any
purpose without doing so. Should I adjust the water level so that the
tip is submerged?

No, overflow pipes must have an air break to prevent any chance of
syphoning.

That makes sense. I wonder what it's for, then? The CH header tank
doesn't have anything like that. A bit of a mystery.

On 07/09/2016 14:12, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:43, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:31, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 11:52, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather
stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a
much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but
when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to
closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some
kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock
will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all
over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one
had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking
that
this might be contributing to the noise.

My guess is that you've bought the cheaper *part 1* type ballvalve.
Best
to buy a brass *part 2* ballvalve, these are the equalibrium type
and a
lot less susceptible to the problems you are having. They are a bit
dearer, but much better.

Looking at various items on eBay, I'd say that that (part 1) is
exactly
what I have bought. TBH, I didn't know there were various kinds
available - I was just happy to be able to get a replacement
locally on
a Sunday afternoon :-)

Now I know what to get, thanks.

Happy to help.

Actually, I've another question, if I may? The header tank has an
overflow pipe (of course), but has a piece inside the tank at 90 degrees
that looks like it should dip into the water. It didn't dip into the
water before I started messing, but I can't imagine that it serves any
purpose without doing so. Should I adjust the water level so that the
tip is submerged?

No, overflow pipes must have an air break to prevent any chance of
syphoning.

That makes sense. I wonder what it's for, then? The CH header tank
doesn't have anything like that. A bit of a mystery.

Some people have them dipping in the water to help stop draughts and to
help prevent insects crawling into the tank, but that's so over the top
it's untrue.

Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 14:12, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:43, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:31, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 11:52, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather
stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a
much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a
lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but
when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to
closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some
kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock
will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's
got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all
over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be
some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one
had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking
that
this might be contributing to the noise.

My guess is that you've bought the cheaper *part 1* type ballvalve.
Best
to buy a brass *part 2* ballvalve, these are the equalibrium type
and a
lot less susceptible to the problems you are having. They are a bit
dearer, but much better.

Looking at various items on eBay, I'd say that that (part 1) is
exactly
what I have bought. TBH, I didn't know there were various kinds
available - I was just happy to be able to get a replacement
locally on
a Sunday afternoon :-)

Now I know what to get, thanks.

Happy to help.

Actually, I've another question, if I may? The header tank has an
overflow pipe (of course), but has a piece inside the tank at 90
degrees
that looks like it should dip into the water. It didn't dip into the
water before I started messing, but I can't imagine that it serves any
purpose without doing so. Should I adjust the water level so that the
tip is submerged?

No, overflow pipes must have an air break to prevent any chance of
syphoning.

That makes sense. I wonder what it's for, then? The CH header tank
doesn't have anything like that. A bit of a mystery.

Some people have them dipping in the water to help stop draughts and to
help prevent insects crawling into the tank, but that's so over the top
it's untrue.

I did think of that, but then whoever put the bend in the pipe didn't
follow up the precautions with paying so much attention to making sure
that the jacket was well-fitted. I think I'll stop worrying about it :-)

On 07/09/2016 14:29, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 14:12, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:43, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:31, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 11:52, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather
stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a
much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a
lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but
when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to
closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some
kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock
will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's
got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all
over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be
some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one
had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm
thinking
that
this might be contributing to the noise.

My guess is that you've bought the cheaper *part 1* type ballvalve.
Best
to buy a brass *part 2* ballvalve, these are the equalibrium type
and a
lot less susceptible to the problems you are having. They are a bit
dearer, but much better.

Looking at various items on eBay, I'd say that that (part 1) is
exactly
what I have bought. TBH, I didn't know there were various kinds
available - I was just happy to be able to get a replacement
locally on
a Sunday afternoon :-)

Now I know what to get, thanks.

Happy to help.

Actually, I've another question, if I may? The header tank has an
overflow pipe (of course), but has a piece inside the tank at 90
degrees
that looks like it should dip into the water. It didn't dip into the
water before I started messing, but I can't imagine that it serves any
purpose without doing so. Should I adjust the water level so that the
tip is submerged?

No, overflow pipes must have an air break to prevent any chance of
syphoning.

That makes sense. I wonder what it's for, then? The CH header tank
doesn't have anything like that. A bit of a mystery.

Some people have them dipping in the water to help stop draughts and to
help prevent insects crawling into the tank, but that's so over the top
it's untrue.

I did think of that, but then whoever put the bend in the pipe didn't
follow up the precautions with paying so much attention to making sure
that the jacket was well-fitted. I think I'll stop worrying about it :-)


Yes you can relax, BTW, I'm a retired plumber.

Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 14:29, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 14:12, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:43, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:31, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 11:52, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather
stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a
much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a
lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal,
but
when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to
closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created
some
kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water
cock
will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a
hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's
got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes
all
over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be
some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one
had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm
thinking
that
this might be contributing to the noise.

My guess is that you've bought the cheaper *part 1* type
ballvalve.
Best
to buy a brass *part 2* ballvalve, these are the equalibrium type
and a
lot less susceptible to the problems you are having. They are a
bit
dearer, but much better.

Looking at various items on eBay, I'd say that that (part 1) is
exactly
what I have bought. TBH, I didn't know there were various kinds
available - I was just happy to be able to get a replacement
locally on
a Sunday afternoon :-)

Now I know what to get, thanks.

Happy to help.

Actually, I've another question, if I may? The header tank has an
overflow pipe (of course), but has a piece inside the tank at 90
degrees
that looks like it should dip into the water. It didn't dip into the
water before I started messing, but I can't imagine that it serves
any
purpose without doing so. Should I adjust the water level so that
the
tip is submerged?

No, overflow pipes must have an air break to prevent any chance of
syphoning.

That makes sense. I wonder what it's for, then? The CH header tank
doesn't have anything like that. A bit of a mystery.

Some people have them dipping in the water to help stop draughts and to
help prevent insects crawling into the tank, but that's so over the top
it's untrue.

I did think of that, but then whoever put the bend in the pipe didn't
follow up the precautions with paying so much attention to making sure
that the jacket was well-fitted. I think I'll stop worrying about it :-)


Yes you can relax, BTW, I'm a retired plumber.

I thought I detected a sense of expertise, which is much appreciated :-)

On 07/09/2016 14:58, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 14:29, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 14:12, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:43, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:31, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 11:52, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather
stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a
much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a
lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal,
but
when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to
closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created
some
kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water
cock
will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I
have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a
hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's
got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes
all
over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be
some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one
had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm
thinking
that
this might be contributing to the noise.

My guess is that you've bought the cheaper *part 1* type
ballvalve.
Best
to buy a brass *part 2* ballvalve, these are the equalibrium type
and a
lot less susceptible to the problems you are having. They are a
bit
dearer, but much better.

Looking at various items on eBay, I'd say that that (part 1) is
exactly
what I have bought. TBH, I didn't know there were various kinds
available - I was just happy to be able to get a replacement
locally on
a Sunday afternoon :-)

Now I know what to get, thanks.

Happy to help.

Actually, I've another question, if I may? The header tank has an
overflow pipe (of course), but has a piece inside the tank at 90
degrees
that looks like it should dip into the water. It didn't dip into
the
water before I started messing, but I can't imagine that it serves
any
purpose without doing so. Should I adjust the water level so that
the
tip is submerged?

No, overflow pipes must have an air break to prevent any chance of
syphoning.

That makes sense. I wonder what it's for, then? The CH header tank
doesn't have anything like that. A bit of a mystery.

Some people have them dipping in the water to help stop draughts and to
help prevent insects crawling into the tank, but that's so over the top
it's untrue.

I did think of that, but then whoever put the bend in the pipe didn't
follow up the precautions with paying so much attention to making sure
that the jacket was well-fitted. I think I'll stop worrying about it
:-)


Yes you can relax, BTW, I'm a retired plumber.

I thought I detected a sense of expertise, which is much appreciated :-)

You're welcome.

On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 11:52:59 UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking that
this might be contributing to the noise.

Yes first thing to try is turning the isolating valve down as far as is practical.
Have a look at the "hole in the bottom" of the valve.
If it has a female thread you can screw a short bit of plastic pipe into it which may help matters.
This bit of pipe used to be supplied with the valve in days of yore

You could try bending slightly the brass arm the ball valve is on.

This sometimes changes/stops/reduces the wave running back and forth across the tank and might stop it.

Or fit a cylindrical float in place of the ball.

Or hang a small weight on the ball arm near the ball.
If this corrects the problem, fix it on permanently.

Yes indeed, one that goes underwater is the way to go. I need one for my
toilet cistern as well as it has the wrong valve size, ie its for a mains
feed not a gravity feed and so it constantly sounds like a babbling brook.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Dan S. MacAbre" wrote in message
...
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to closing, the
noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some kind of
resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock will get
rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a question
about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole drilled into the
bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to come out of somewhere,
but since it just dribbles and splashes all over the place, I'm wondering
if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some kind of nozzle to attempt to
direct it (like the old plastic one had)? Am I supposed to buy something
else to finish it off? I'm thinking that this might be contributing to
the noise.

harry wrote:
On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 11:52:59 UTC+1, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes all over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm thinking that
this might be contributing to the noise.

Yes first thing to try is turning the isolating valve down as far as is practical.
Have a look at the "hole in the bottom" of the valve.
If it has a female thread you can screw a short bit of plastic pipe into it which may help matters.
This bit of pipe used to be supplied with the valve in days of yore

There is no thread, and the hole isn't even proud from the surface.
It's just drilled into the block, so that water just goes everywhere.

You could try bending slightly the brass arm the ball valve is on.

This sometimes changes/stops/reduces the wave running back and forth across the tank and might stop it.

Or fit a cylindrical float in place of the ball.

Or hang a small weight on the ball arm near the ball.
If this corrects the problem, fix it on permanently.

Yes, I don't think it would take much to disturb the equilibrium of the
whole thing. I expect it can only be oscillating like it does because
conditions are just right :-)

Maybe mine's the other way around? Maybe I bought one for gravity feed,
and fitted it to a mains feed?

Brian Gaff wrote:
Yes indeed, one that goes underwater is the way to go. I need one for my
toilet cistern as well as it has the wrong valve size, ie its for a mains
feed not a gravity feed and so it constantly sounds like a babbling brook.
Brian

On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 16:50:35 UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
Yes indeed, one that goes underwater is the way to go. I need one for my
toilet cistern as well as it has the wrong valve size, ie its for a mains
feed not a gravity feed and so it constantly sounds like a babbling brook.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Dan S. MacAbre" wrote in message
...
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal, but when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to closing, the
noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created some kind of
resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water cock will get
rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a question
about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a hole drilled into the
bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's got to come out of somewhere,
but since it just dribbles and splashes all over the place, I'm wondering
if perhaps there shouldn't at least be some kind of nozzle to attempt to
direct it (like the old plastic one had)? Am I supposed to buy something
else to finish it off? I'm thinking that this might be contributing to
the noise.

The only difference is the jet is a bigger hole for gravity fed ones. They won't close against mains pressure.

In message ,
harry writes
On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 16:50:35 UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
Yes indeed, one that goes underwater is the way to go. I need one for my
toilet cistern as well as it has the wrong valve size, ie its for a mains
feed not a gravity feed and so it constantly sounds like a babbling brook.

Snip
The only difference is the jet is a bigger hole for gravity fed ones.
They won't close against mains pressure.

Oh yes they will:-)

I have just connected an old gravity fed cistern to a 5 bar mains
supply. Shuts off OK but *howls* as it reaches the close off point.

On dipping tubes... I thought these are not permitted on mains feeds due
to suck back contamination risks. The way round was a collapsible
plastic tube.

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message ,
harry writes
On Wednesday, 7 September 2016 16:50:35 UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
Yes indeed, one that goes underwater is the way to go. I need one for my
toilet cistern as well as it has the wrong valve size, ie its for a mains
feed not a gravity feed and so it constantly sounds like a babbling brook.

Snip
The only difference is the jet is a bigger hole for gravity fed ones.
They won't close against mains pressure.

Oh yes they will:-)

I have just connected an old gravity fed cistern to a 5 bar mains
supply. Shuts off OK but *howls* as it reaches the close off point.

On dipping tubes... I thought these are not permitted on mains feeds due
to suck back contamination risks. The way round was a collapsible
plastic tube.


Or a small hole near the top of the tube to allow air back in.

Tim

--
Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file

On 07/09/2016 16:53, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:

Yes, I don't think it would take much to disturb the equilibrium of the
whole thing. I expect it can only be oscillating like it does because
conditions are just right :-)

My MiL had one like that - the feed into the loft tank went through a 90
degree bend a couple of feet from the tank, then went across the loft
for 10ft, all unsupported. I tied the bend to a rafter with a bit of
string, and that damped the vibration enough to shut it up.

Andy