Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 14:29, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 14:12, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:43, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 12:31, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Bod wrote:
On 07/09/2016 11:52, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
While tying up the plastic ballcock arm in the loft, I rather
stupidly
snapped it. I went out and got a brass one, which seems to be a
much
stronger replacement, so no big deal. However, the new one is a
lot
noisier than the old one. Again, that wouldn't be a big deal,
but
when
the tank is close to its full level, and the valve is near to
closing,
the noise starts to fluctuate. I imagine that it has created
some
kind
of resonance in the water, and that adjusting the mains water
cock
will
get rid of it (I only open it about a single turn). But I have a
question about the new brass valve. The water comes out of a
hole
drilled into the bottom of the valve body. Okay, I know it's
got to
come out of somewhere, but since it just dribbles and splashes
all
over
the place, I'm wondering if perhaps there shouldn't at least be
some
kind of nozzle to attempt to direct it (like the old plastic one
had)?
Am I supposed to buy something else to finish it off? I'm
thinking
that
this might be contributing to the noise.

My guess is that you've bought the cheaper *part 1* type
ballvalve.
Best
to buy a brass *part 2* ballvalve, these are the equalibrium type
and a
lot less susceptible to the problems you are having. They are a
bit
dearer, but much better.

Looking at various items on eBay, I'd say that that (part 1) is
exactly
what I have bought. TBH, I didn't know there were various kinds
available - I was just happy to be able to get a replacement
locally on
a Sunday afternoon :-)

Now I know what to get, thanks.

Happy to help.

Actually, I've another question, if I may? The header tank has an
overflow pipe (of course), but has a piece inside the tank at 90
degrees
that looks like it should dip into the water. It didn't dip into the
water before I started messing, but I can't imagine that it serves
any
purpose without doing so. Should I adjust the water level so that
the
tip is submerged?

No, overflow pipes must have an air break to prevent any chance of
syphoning.

That makes sense. I wonder what it's for, then? The CH header tank
doesn't have anything like that. A bit of a mystery.

Some people have them dipping in the water to help stop draughts and to
help prevent insects crawling into the tank, but that's so over the top
it's untrue.

I did think of that, but then whoever put the bend in the pipe didn't
follow up the precautions with paying so much attention to making sure
that the jacket was well-fitted. I think I'll stop worrying about it :-)


Yes you can relax, BTW, I'm a retired plumber.

I thought I detected a sense of expertise, which is much appreciated :-)