Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers


Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

"David" wrote in message
...
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

I wouldn't take the risk of the tyre remaining airtight if you remove the
nail. If it's penetrated part way through the tread but not pierced right
the way through, there could be a fairly thin layer of rubber left to
contain the pressure, and it could start leaking. Get it repaired properly.

We had a very slow puncture on our car - tyre lost about 0.5 bar (out of 2.5
bar correct pressure) over a couple of weeks. I couldn't see any sign of
anything in the tread, so I was suspecting a leaking valve.

When I eventually got round to taking the car in to a tyre garage they found
a screw with its head buried in the tread which had closed over it and a
very thin layer of rubber on the inside with a pinhole pierced by the tip of
the screw. Easy repair - no need for new tyre which is a good thing when
they are that expensive and only had about 10,000 miles wear.

"David" wrote in message
...
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers

You missed 3 -
(3) Take to fixer to be told it's irrepairable put your hand in your pocket.

Must be 50 years since I heard "yes mate no prob, that'll be a quid".
Almost invariably it's a new tyre IME.

David wrote:
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers


Dave R


Hasn't happened to me, but I know a few people that have pulled nails
out with no problem, and not one has leaked. OTOH, although there
aren't many people as parsimonious as me :-), I wouldn't take any chance
at all with tyres, since I usually have the family in the car with me.
I would always get it checked.

Since you mention DIY, you can buy the patches that the tyre place would
use, although it's not going to be easy. Especially when it comes to
balancing it.

Just my very humble opinion.

On 12/08/16 10:22, bm wrote:
"David" wrote in message
...
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers

You missed 3 -
(3) Take to fixer to be told it's irrepairable put your hand in your pocket.

Must be 50 years since I heard "yes mate no prob, that'll be a quid".
Almost invariably it's a new tyre IME.



If its in the sidewall, forget it.

If it in the tread its allowed.



--
To ban Christmas, simply give turkeys the vote.

"bm" wrote in message
web.com...
You missed 3 -
(3) Take to fixer to be told it's irrepairable put your hand in your
pocket.

Must be 50 years since I heard "yes mate no prob, that'll be a quid".
Almost invariably it's a new tyre IME.

I was expecting this with the slow puncture (screw embedded in tyre tread)
that I had, and was resigned to writing off a tyre that still had plenty of
tread life left (only done 10,000 miles from new). So I was very surprised
to be told that it could be repaired, so there was just the charge for
removing tyre, repairing it, refitting it and balancing wheel. Forget how
much it was, but a *lot* less than the cost of a new tyre.

The only tyre that I've had that was irrepairable was when I had a blowout
and the wheel rim ran over the bulging part of the tyre wall before I could
stop. That tyre was well and truly mangled :-( I was stranded for ages
because when I came to get the spare wheel out from the cage underneath the
boot, the thread that releases the cage had seized up. If they'd put a
proper hexagonal head on the bolt, same size as the wheel nuts so you can
use the wheelbrace, I could have applied some leverage, but it was a very
broad u-shaped flat groove in the bolt head into which you inserted the
flattened end of the wheelbrace as a crude screwdriver. Crappy design,
Peugeot :-( If you tried to apply any force, the end of the wheelbrace
"screwdriver" came out of the "screw head", even when I pressed my chest on
the wheelbrace while turning it to force it into the notch.

Eventually I had to call out RAC simply for help with getting spare wheel
out. It took the RAC man a while, with blowtorch to heat the nut that had
seized onto the thread and then liberally spraying with water (to cool it)
and then WD40. He was on the point of filing two flats on the bolt head so
he could fit a spanner, when he finally managed to get it moving.

Changing wheel was a doddle. After that I made sure I kept the thread
lubricated with 3-in-1 oil every month or so, and loosened/tightened it
periodically as well.

David wrote:
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers


Dave R

This is DIY get a kit and DIY, it is easy put some goop on poke thing
with sticky string stuff on it in pull uot and cut off excess easy peasey.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKwvObmidh0

On 12/08/2016 10:45, NY wrote:

The only tyre that I've had that was irrepairable was when I had a
blowout and the wheel rim ran over the bulging part of the tyre wall
before I could stop. That tyre was well and truly mangled :-( I was
stranded for ages because when I came to get the spare wheel out from
the cage underneath the boot, the thread that releases the cage had
seized up. If they'd put a proper hexagonal head on the bolt, same size
as the wheel nuts so you can use the wheelbrace, I could have applied
some leverage, but it was a very broad u-shaped flat groove in the bolt
head into which you inserted the flattened end of the wheelbrace as a
crude screwdriver. Crappy design, Peugeot :-( If you tried to apply any
force, the end of the wheelbrace "screwdriver" came out of the "screw
head", even when I pressed my chest on the wheelbrace while turning it
to force it into the notch.

I've enjoyed that feature on the Xantia. I've sheared off one of them.
They get greased properly after I get them apart...

On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 9:54:27 AM UTC+1, David wrote:
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers


Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

Costs £10 for a puncture repair at my local place. There's only been two times they haven't done it on the spot:
- When it had been driven on for about 20 miles on it flat, causing serious damage to the inside of an almost brand new tyre (and I saw the damage - still have the tyre on my old tyre pile).
- When it was close to the sidewall, and it needed to be sent off to be done. May have cost £20 in this case.

Given the tyres are ~£150 new I've no problem with this, and wouldn't bother to give it a go myself.

On 12 Aug 2016 08:54:24 GMT, David wrote:

Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers


Dave R


https://youtu.be/sAjIpGXdftw



--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%

"NY" Wrote in message:
"bm" wrote in message
web.com...
You missed 3 -
(3) Take to fixer to be told it's irrepairable put your hand in your
pocket.

Must be 50 years since I heard "yes mate no prob, that'll be a quid".
Almost invariably it's a new tyre IME.

I was expecting this with the slow puncture (screw embedded in tyre tread)
that I had, and was resigned to writing off a tyre that still had plenty of
tread life left (only done 10,000 miles from new). So I was very surprised
to be told that it could be repaired, so there was just the charge for
removing tyre, repairing it, refitting it and balancing wheel. Forget how
much it was, but a *lot* less than the cost of a new tyre.


I've had a couple of nail/screw punctures fixed on the wife's car
over the last few years with no problems (straight forward
punctures, no splits, cuts, sidewall damage) probably cost
£10-15.

To answer the OP, if it isn't leaking (might be slow, one of my
wife's took about 7-10 days to noticeably go down) pull it out,
but be prepared for it then to start leaking :-). If it was on
our Galaxy though i'd pop down to our local tyre place and let
them look at it as it doesn't have a spare.

I wouldn't bother with attempting a diy repair though given how
cheap the tyre place does it for
--
--
Chris French

On 8/12/2016 9:54 AM, David wrote:
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

If it is really short, so it can't have damaged the plies, you should be OK.


(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

If it is right at the edge of the tread, they will probably want to plug
it anyway. If it's not, they will almost certainly want to sell you a
new tyre.


Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers


Dave R

I had an "edge of tread" one which turned out to be short (a 6 mm
bayonet tack) a few months ago. Since it was on a car with no spare,
only a pump and a bottle of goo, I took it to my local (good) tyre place
and they plugged it. Had it been one of my vehicles with spares I would
probably have pulled it out to see. (They usually leak when you do that
IME).

On 12/08/2016 10:22, bm wrote:

You missed 3 -
(3) Take to fixer to be told it's irrepairable put your hand in your pocket.

Must be 50 years since I heard "yes mate no prob, that'll be a quid".
Almost invariably it's a new tyre IME.

You obviously take it to the wrong places. The last two times I've had
repairable punctures - no problem, that will be £15 all in (including
new valve and balancing).

However only 3 days ago I had a nail (on a piece of wood) puncture a
tyre that had done less than 800 miles. Unfortunately it was in the
side wall just above the tread and a new tyre was required.


--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 12/08/2016 12:32, F Murtz wrote:

This is DIY get a kit and DIY, it is easy put some goop on poke thing
with sticky string stuff on it in pull uot and cut off excess easy peasey.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKwvObmidh0


When I had had tyres repaired they have taken it off the wheel to check
for damage inside of the tyre.

--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

"Clive George" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 12/08/2016 10:45, NY wrote:

The only tyre that I've had that was irrepairable was when I had a
blowout and the wheel rim ran over the bulging part of the tyre wall
before I could stop. That tyre was well and truly mangled :-( I was
stranded for ages because when I came to get the spare wheel out from
the cage underneath the boot, the thread that releases the cage had
seized up. If they'd put a proper hexagonal head on the bolt, same size
as the wheel nuts so you can use the wheelbrace, I could have applied
some leverage, but it was a very broad u-shaped flat groove in the bolt
head into which you inserted the flattened end of the wheelbrace as a
crude screwdriver. Crappy design, Peugeot :-( If you tried to apply any
force, the end of the wheelbrace "screwdriver" came out of the "screw
head", even when I pressed my chest on the wheelbrace while turning it
to force it into the notch.

I've enjoyed that feature on the Xantia. I've sheared off one of them.
They get greased properly after I get them apart...

The whole idea of putting the tyre in an *open* cage under the floor of the
car is a bit iffy. If you need the spare, you usually find the sidewalls of
the tyre have deep impressions from the wire basket which look as if they
can't have done the tyre much good - I'm reluctant to rely on the tyre in
that state for more than a day or so until I can get to a garage. And the
tyre is always covered in mud that's bounced up from the road.

The other problem is that the cage can spring open. I was once driving along
a country lane and heard a thump and saw the spare wheel lying on the road
behind me. Luckily I was going slowly and there wasn't a car behind me to
run into the spare wheel. On another occasion with another car that had The
Cage, I heard a scraping noise and found that it was dragging on the ground.
Despite driving back along the road, I never found the spare wheel, so I had
to buy a new wheel (I got the cheapest steel one I could find) and a new
tyre.

Putting the spare wheel in a well inside the boot is more secure, though it
does mean you have to empty the boot to get at the spare wheel, and I can
never get the tools to fit back in the recess of the wheel so that the
carpet of the boot fits back flat.

The best place is in the engine compartment, as was the case on my mum's
Renault 6 - as long as there's space and as long as the engine doesn't heat
up the tyre too much...

Nowadays almost all cars have these stupid spacesaver spare wheels which
assume the punctures only happen during the hours when tyre garages are open
(all of mine have been found late at night when I'm about to start a long
journey home), and assume that as soon as you discover the puncture it will
be convenient to detour to a garage rather (even if the garages are open)
driving home on the spare and taking the tyre to a garage when it's more
convenient and when it won't delay a journey.

"Almost all the cars"... Except for those which have no spare wheel at all,
when you need to phone a breakdown service who will tow you to a garage to
get a repaired/new tyre. How is it "progress" to have to wait several hours
for the RAC when you used to be able to change the wheel in a few minutes (I
think my record was about 5 mins) and be on your way again.

On 12/08/2016 14:59, NY wrote:
"Clive George" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 12/08/2016 10:45, NY wrote:

The only tyre that I've had that was irrepairable was when I had a
blowout and the wheel rim ran over the bulging part of the tyre wall
before I could stop. That tyre was well and truly mangled :-( I was
stranded for ages because when I came to get the spare wheel out from
the cage underneath the boot, the thread that releases the cage had
seized up. If they'd put a proper hexagonal head on the bolt, same size
as the wheel nuts so you can use the wheelbrace, I could have applied
some leverage, but it was a very broad u-shaped flat groove in the bolt
head into which you inserted the flattened end of the wheelbrace as a
crude screwdriver. Crappy design, Peugeot :-( If you tried to apply any
force, the end of the wheelbrace "screwdriver" came out of the "screw
head", even when I pressed my chest on the wheelbrace while turning it
to force it into the notch.

I've enjoyed that feature on the Xantia. I've sheared off one of them.
They get greased properly after I get them apart...

The whole idea of putting the tyre in an *open* cage under the floor of
the car is a bit iffy. If you need the spare, you usually find the
sidewalls of the tyre have deep impressions from the wire basket which
look as if they can't have done the tyre much good - I'm reluctant to
rely on the tyre in that state for more than a day or so until I can get
to a garage. And the tyre is always covered in mud that's bounced up
from the road.

I don't have either of those problems, and I've had a spare which looks
like it was the original one in the car from 13+ years ago. If one did
have mud problems, a sheet of plastic would solve them.

The other problem is that the cage can spring open. I was once driving
along a country lane and heard a thump and saw the spare wheel lying on
the road behind me. Luckily I was going slowly and there wasn't a car
behind me to run into the spare wheel. On another occasion with another
car that had The Cage, I heard a scraping noise and found that it was
dragging on the ground. Despite driving back along the road, I never
found the spare wheel, so I had to buy a new wheel (I got the cheapest
steel one I could find) and a new tyre.

Again, I've not bounced a cage open, but then I do make sure it's done up.

Putting the spare wheel in a well inside the boot is more secure, though
it does mean you have to empty the boot to get at the spare wheel, and I
can never get the tools to fit back in the recess of the wheel so that
the carpet of the boot fits back flat.

Indeed. I have played the "empty the entire car on a belgian hard
shoulder" game, and don't really want to do that again.

The best place is in the engine compartment, as was the case on my mum's
Renault 6 - as long as there's space and as long as the engine doesn't
heat up the tyre too much...

CX had it too. However you lose on both "as long as there's space" - not
likely with modern huge tyres and "doesn't heat the tyre up too much" -
the CX one definitely suffered from that.

It might be more likely to work on modern taller bonnets - though aren't
they deliberately empty for pedestrian crash safety?

On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 12:32:06 PM UTC+1, F Murtz wrote:
David wrote:
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers


Dave R

This is DIY get a kit and DIY, it is easy put some goop on poke thing
with sticky string stuff on it in pull uot and cut off excess easy peasey.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKwvObmidh0

That's not a safe repair method.

Philip

On 12 Aug 2016 08:54:24 GMT, David wrote:

Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).


I had just that the other day and the nail was in the middle of the
outer block of tread where I'm not sure if they would repair it or not
(because of how much flex and heat a conventional plug or patch would
have to deal with).

So, because the tyre was reasonably new, I used what I have now used
several times for such things (even though it's not designed to be
used retrospectively) and that was Punctureseal.

http://www.punctureseal.com/

It is *NOT* one of these pressurised can of vinyl foam that you use
after a puncture to get you home, this is a very sophisticated and
highly tested, pre-puncture preventative and as you don't actually
have a puncture right now, could be considered the ideal use. ;-)

So, once you have the stuff you (ideally) jack up the wheel, (or put a
suitably sized block under the suspension at that point) and deflate
the tyre. Remove the valve core, apply the correct amount of the
'liquid', (clean out the inside of the stem) replace the core and
re-inflate the tyre. Ideally you would drive a bit (20 mins?) before
testing to see if that nail was actually penetrating the inside of the
tyre and be amazed that the tyre doesn't (and won't ever, within
reason) go flat from a puncture. ;-)

It's the exact same (type of) solution as offered pre applied by the
likes of Continental:

http://www.continental-tyres.co.uk/c...main/contiseal

FWIW, daughter has just had new tyres fitted to her van and because of
the damage that could be done if she was to unwittingly drive a loaded
van with a deflating tyre ... or just the risk / inconvenience of
having a puncture in the wrong place (on a motorway, in the rain, at
night) or anywhere for that matter g, she has Puncturesealed all 4
tyres herself.

And please don't be confused by anyone who says 'tyre fitters don't
like it' (although I can understand why some might not ('tyre sales')
weg) or that 'you can't wash it out' (Punctureseal is water soluble
and I have washed it out of an old tyre *easily* myself) or that it
'affects the balance' (I have applied it to most of our cars and
motorcycles and only noticed a slight inbalance for the first few
hundred yards as it spreads evenly around the tyre).

I am a member of several motorcycle clubs (where having a puncture can
really ruin your day), most of those who have used Punctureseal (not
any other similar looking or sounding product that is likely to be
inferior and not as rigorously tested etc) now swear by it. They only
realise how many punctures they would otherwise have suffered when it
comes time to replacing the tyre and seeing the little tell-tale
coloured markers. ;-)

I have only had positive feedback from people I have recommended it to
(including users of ride-on-mowers, cars and motorcycles).

No connection other than a very satisfied and long term user. ;-)

YMMY of course.

Cheers, T i m

David wrote:
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear
tyre, but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done.
If air leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying
for them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

No it doesn't.

The one near me charges about £8 for a puncture repair, if I took a tyre in
and informed them that I wanted a discount as I'd arsed around pulling the
nail out myself, they'd either:

(1) Laugh at me and tell me to eff off.

(2) Look at me as if I were a simpleton, then laugh at me and tell me to eff
off.


Attempting to take the nail out yourself hoping that on the off chance it
has only penetrated though half the rubber is also an idiot's trick - how
long do you think it will last like this?


I like a bargain as much as the next man, but attempting crap like this in
order to save less than a tenner is a dangerous waste of time IMO.

On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 18:08:09 +0100, Phil L wrote:

David wrote:
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear
tyre, but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If
air leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying
for them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

No it doesn't.

The one near me charges about £8 for a puncture repair, if I took a tyre
in and informed them that I wanted a discount as I'd arsed around
pulling the nail out myself, they'd either:

(1) Laugh at me and tell me to eff off.

(2) Look at me as if I were a simpleton, then laugh at me and tell me to
eff off.


Attempting to take the nail out yourself hoping that on the off chance
it has only penetrated though half the rubber is also an idiot's trick -
how long do you think it will last like this?


I like a bargain as much as the next man, but attempting crap like this
in order to save less than a tenner is a dangerous waste of time IMO.


If it hasn't penetrated all the way, then how do they repair it when there
isn't a hole on the inside to take a plug?

I don't think anyone mentioned asking for a discount either - I think that
is termed a straw man where you suggest something stupid then announce
that it is a stupid idea.

If the nail has only penetrated through half the rubber, then what is
going to make it fail? Especially if it is in deep tread which is designed
to be worn away anyway.

Not a lot of logic there, I'm afraid.

Others have put it more sensibly.

Cheers


Dave R


--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

David wrote:
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 18:08:09 +0100, Phil L wrote:


If it hasn't penetrated all the way, then how do they repair it when
there isn't a hole on the inside to take a plug?

They send their sharp rasp like tool right the way through to make the hole
complete, then they fill the entire thing so that it's the same thickness
(if not thicker) rubber as the rest of the tyre.

I don't think anyone mentioned asking for a discount either - I think
that is termed a straw man where you suggest something stupid then
announce that it is a stupid idea.


1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

"paying for them to do the first part of (1)" means paying them to take the
nail out of the tyre when you were intending doing it yourself

If the nail has only penetrated through half the rubber, then what is
going to make it fail? Especially if it is in deep tread which is
designed to be worn away anyway.

Not a lot of logic there, I'm afraid.


Too much for you to accept, yes.

Others have put it more sensibly.

Save yourself the ten quid, pull the nail out yourself and then go for a
cruise down the motorway, this is obviously what you wanted to hear and
nothing else matters. It's of no consequence to me or anyone else. Apart
from you, and anyone else you take in the car that is. We're not talking
about pulling a nail out of a piece of skirting board here - you're highly
unlikely to be sitting on said skirting board at 70mph in the near future

On Friday, 12 August 2016 10:22:22 UTC+1, bm wrote:
"David" wrote in message
...
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers

You missed 3 -
(3) Take to fixer to be told it's irrepairable put your hand in your pocket.

Must be 50 years since I heard "yes mate no prob, that'll be a quid".
Almost invariably it's a new tyre IME.

If it is in the wall then its a gonner though I don't know why if it is in the tread then the patch is considered good enough.Again I have no idea why.
What did a web search reveal?

On Friday, 12 August 2016 13:04:20 UTC+1, wrote:
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 9:54:27 AM UTC+1, David wrote:
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers


Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

Costs £10 for a puncture repair at my local place. There's only been two times they haven't done it on the spot:
- When it had been driven on for about 20 miles on it flat, causing serious damage to the inside of an almost brand new tyre (and I saw the damage - still have the tyre on my old tyre pile).
- When it was close to the sidewall, and it needed to be sent off to be done. May have cost £20 in this case.

Given the tyres are ~£150 new I've no problem with this, and wouldn't bother to give it a go myself.

Look at it as an opportunity to find a decent workshop. If they just quote you silly money for new then go elsewhere but leave the tyre in and drive slowly to a well respected local garage.

The days of making a fool of yourself with a modern masterpiece of engineering faded a long time before top gear became popular.

On Friday, 12 August 2016 19:05:31 UTC+1, David wrote:
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 18:08:09 +0100, Phil L wrote:

David wrote:
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear
tyre, but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If
air leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying
for them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

No it doesn't.

The one near me charges about £8 for a puncture repair, if I took a tyre
in and informed them that I wanted a discount as I'd arsed around
pulling the nail out myself, they'd either:

(1) Laugh at me and tell me to eff off.

(2) Look at me as if I were a simpleton, then laugh at me and tell me to
eff off.


Attempting to take the nail out yourself hoping that on the off chance
it has only penetrated though half the rubber is also an idiot's trick -
how long do you think it will last like this?


I like a bargain as much as the next man, but attempting crap like this
in order to save less than a tenner is a dangerous waste of time IMO.


If it hasn't penetrated all the way, then how do they repair it when there
isn't a hole on the inside to take a plug?

I don't think anyone mentioned asking for a discount either - I think that
is termed a straw man where you suggest something stupid then announce
that it is a stupid idea.

If the nail has only penetrated through half the rubber, then what is
going to make it fail? Especially if it is in deep tread which is designed
to be worn away anyway.

Not a lot of logic there, I'm afraid.

Logic is an "IF and AND/OR problem isn't it?
You did not discuss the niceties of ensuring the IF variable.

"NY" wrote in message
...
"Clive George" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 12/08/2016 10:45, NY wrote:

The only tyre that I've had that was irrepairable was when I had a
blowout and the wheel rim ran over the bulging part of the tyre wall
before I could stop. That tyre was well and truly mangled :-( I was
stranded for ages because when I came to get the spare wheel out from
the cage underneath the boot, the thread that releases the cage had
seized up. If they'd put a proper hexagonal head on the bolt, same size
as the wheel nuts so you can use the wheelbrace, I could have applied
some leverage, but it was a very broad u-shaped flat groove in the bolt
head into which you inserted the flattened end of the wheelbrace as a
crude screwdriver. Crappy design, Peugeot :-( If you tried to apply any
force, the end of the wheelbrace "screwdriver" came out of the "screw
head", even when I pressed my chest on the wheelbrace while turning it
to force it into the notch.

I've enjoyed that feature on the Xantia. I've sheared off one of them.
They get greased properly after I get them apart...

The whole idea of putting the tyre in an *open* cage under the floor of
the car is a bit iffy. If you need the spare, you usually find the
sidewalls of the tyre have deep impressions from the wire basket which
look as if they can't have done the tyre much good - I'm reluctant to rely
on the tyre in that state for more than a day or so until I can get to a
garage. And the tyre is always covered in mud that's bounced up from the
road.

The other problem is that the cage can spring open. I was once driving
along a country lane and heard a thump and saw the spare wheel lying on
the road behind me. Luckily I was going slowly and there wasn't a car
behind me to run into the spare wheel. On another occasion with another
car that had The Cage, I heard a scraping noise and found that it was
dragging on the ground. Despite driving back along the road, I never found
the spare wheel, so I had to buy a new wheel (I got the cheapest steel one
I could find) and a new tyre.

Putting the spare wheel in a well inside the boot is more secure, though
it does mean you have to empty the boot to get at the spare wheel, and I
can never get the tools to fit back in the recess of the wheel so that the
carpet of the boot fits back flat.

With mine, the spare is bolted down with what is the outside at the bottom,
which does allow the hollow to have the jack and stuff kept in it, but means
that
it’s a lot more work to check the tire pressure, you have to take everything
out.

The best place is in the engine compartment, as was the case on my mum's
Renault 6 - as long as there's space and as long as the engine doesn't
heat up the tyre too much...

Not really feasible with modern compact front wheel drives, not enough room.

The other approach seen with the bigger 4WDs like Landcruisers etc is to
have
the spare on the back door in a cover, but that has the other problem of
making
the door much heavier than it needs to be otherwise and doesn’t look great.

Nowadays almost all cars have these stupid spacesaver spare wheels which
assume the punctures only happen during the hours when tyre garages are
open (all of mine have been found late at night when I'm about to start a
long journey home),

Plenty of mine have happened when they are open, but
about half when they arent, including the most recent one.

and assume that as soon as you discover the puncture it will be convenient
to detour to a garage rather (even if the garages are open) driving home
on the spare and taking the tyre to a garage when it's more convenient and
when it won't delay a journey.

Yeah, I much prefer a full spare.

"Almost all the cars"... Except for those which have no spare wheel at
all, when you need to phone a breakdown service who will tow you to a
garage to get a repaired/new tyre. How is it "progress" to have to wait
several hours for the RAC when you used to be able to change the wheel in
a few minutes (I think my record was about 5 mins) and be on your way
again.

Presumably the assumption is that it wont happen enough to matter.

That was true for decades for me, but in the last decade I have had
something like 10 flats now. Mostly due to basic stuff like clearly
visible screw etc in the tire, one with two of them, and in such a
position that it couldn’t have been deliberate sabotage either.

"Rod Speed" wrote in message
...
"Almost all the cars"... Except for those which have no spare wheel at
all, when you need to phone a breakdown service who will tow you to a
garage to get a repaired/new tyre. How is it "progress" to have to wait
several hours for the RAC when you used to be able to change the wheel in
a few minutes (I think my record was about 5 mins) and be on your way
again.

Presumably the assumption is that it wont happen enough to matter.

You only have to get *one* puncture in a lifetime out of hours (late on a
Sunday night when I'm about to drive from Yorkshire to Oxfordshire after
seeing my girlfriend was the last of these that I had) to curse the
parentage of the people who fit space-saver spare wheels. When it happens
and you can't get the tyre replaced there and then, it matters *very* much
:-) Even if it happens during the time when garages are open, it means you
have to stop what you'd planned to do and get the tyre repaired immediately,
whereas with a proper fit-for-purpose wheel you can be on your way as soon
as you've changed your wheel and get the flat tyre repaired later at a more
convenient time.

I wish we had a Construction and Use regulation which said that in order for
cars to be used in the UK, they had to be designed by the manufacturer so
they have a full-size, fully-serviceable spare wheel which is capable of
being driven on for as far as you like and at the same speed as the normal
tyre - in other words, the same tyre as the four normal ones, although maybe
on a plain steel wheel instead of a fancy alloy one. So as they used to make
spare wheels until about 20 years ago.

When I had my last late-night puncture, I had to abandon the journey, stay
an extra night with SWMBO (no great hardship!) and find a garage the
following morning before driving back, which meant taking half a day's
leave. So I lost out financially as well as in terms of lost time. I was not
a happy bunny :-(

Phil L wrote:
David wrote:
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 18:08:09 +0100, Phil L wrote:


If it hasn't penetrated all the way, then how do they repair it when
there isn't a hole on the inside to take a plug?

They send their sharp rasp like tool right the way through to make
the hole complete, then they fill the entire thing so that it's the
same thickness (if not thicker) rubber as the rest of the tyre.

I don't think anyone mentioned asking for a discount either - I think
that is termed a straw man where you suggest something stupid then
announce that it is a stupid idea.


1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If
air leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying
for them to do the first part of (1).

"paying for them to do the first part of (1)" means paying them to
take the nail out of the tyre when you were intending doing it
yourself
If the nail has only penetrated through half the rubber, then what is
going to make it fail? Especially if it is in deep tread which is
designed to be worn away anyway.

Not a lot of logic there, I'm afraid.


Too much for you to accept, yes.

Others have put it more sensibly.

Save yourself the ten quid, pull the nail out yourself and then go
for a cruise down the motorway, this is obviously what you wanted to
hear and nothing else matters. It's of no consequence to me or anyone
else. Apart from you, and anyone else you take in the car that is.
We're not talking about pulling a nail out of a piece of skirting
board here - you're highly unlikely to be sitting on said skirting
board at 70mph in the near future

+1

The guy is obviously a skint Dickhead.
Hey! This could be the skint ****** Peter Hucker using a new handle.

On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 21:32:15 +0100, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:

Phil L wrote:
David wrote:
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 18:08:09 +0100, Phil L wrote:


If it hasn't penetrated all the way, then how do they repair it when
there isn't a hole on the inside to take a plug?

They send their sharp rasp like tool right the way through to make
the hole complete, then they fill the entire thing so that it's the
same thickness (if not thicker) rubber as the rest of the tyre.

I don't think anyone mentioned asking for a discount either - I think
that is termed a straw man where you suggest something stupid then
announce that it is a stupid idea.


1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If
air leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying
for them to do the first part of (1).

"paying for them to do the first part of (1)" means paying them to
take the nail out of the tyre when you were intending doing it
yourself
If the nail has only penetrated through half the rubber, then what is
going to make it fail? Especially if it is in deep tread which is
designed to be worn away anyway.

Not a lot of logic there, I'm afraid.


Too much for you to accept, yes.

Others have put it more sensibly.

Save yourself the ten quid, pull the nail out yourself and then go
for a cruise down the motorway, this is obviously what you wanted to
hear and nothing else matters. It's of no consequence to me or anyone
else. Apart from you, and anyone else you take in the car that is.
We're not talking about pulling a nail out of a piece of skirting
board here - you're highly unlikely to be sitting on said skirting
board at 70mph in the near future

+1

The guy is obviously a skint Dickhead.
Hey! This could be the skint ****** Peter Hucker using a new handle.

You can buy DIY tyre repair kits you ignorant fool.

--
The skeleton found in the car park has been confirmed to be that of Richard III, but one question remains unanswered:
Who did I pay £20,000 on Ebay for?

On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 20:59:28 +0100, "NY" wrote:

snip

When I had my last late-night puncture, I had to abandon the journey, stay
an extra night with SWMBO (no great hardship!) and find a garage the
following morning before driving back, which meant taking half a day's
leave. So I lost out financially as well as in terms of lost time. I was not
a happy bunny :-(

Sounds like you would be someone who might then appreciate something
that prevents punctures in the first place?

The first time across such a concept was when at the British
Motorcycle Federation rally at Peterbourough a good few years ago now.

'Ultraseal' (as it was then) had a small stand with a motorcycle wheel
in a stand so it could be easily rotated. The guy demonstrated the
concept by stabbing a bradawl into the tyre, spinning it round a few
times and then showing a small drop of the sealant coming through.

That alone was enough to get a few people buying a container
sufficient to do both wheel on a motorbike. Long-short, some big hairy
biker leant between us and stabbed the tyre with a fairly large pocket
knife and the guy, a bit taken aback, spun the wheel and again the
leak was stopped.

Example 1 of Ultraseal being used retrospectively.

The Mrs picked me up from the station in the Sierra and as we pulled
away I heard the anti static strap dragging on the ground?. We stopped
and I noticed the n/s/r tyre was very soft. We were only a few hundred
yards from home so I pumped it up with a footpump and we drove home. I
had enough Ultraseal left to do the Sierra tyre so jacked it up,
removed the valve core, applied the Ultraseal, re-fitted the core and
re-inflated the tyre with the foopump. I gave it a quick spin round
the block and the tyre was fine for many years till I eventually broke
the car myself.

When I was IT training a delegate was late in one morning and
(long-short) had found a large nail in the middle of he fairly new
rear tyre (so had to get the train in). I brought in a bottle of
Ultraseal, he took it home and applied it and came back in on his bike
for the rest of the week. He also email me some months later telling
me he had just replaced said tyre because it was worn out and it
hadn't been any issue till that point.

Just recently I went to the Meriva and found the n/s/f tyre flat. I
pumped it back up (electric pump) and found a nail in one of the outer
tread blocks. I drove it the short distance home and by the morning it
was flat again. Again I applied some Punctureseal (they changed the
name because of the bad rep all the copies were giving them) and the
tyre hasn't lost a pound of pressure since.

Punctureseal is routinely fitted in many vehicle fleets around the
world and *always* wins when any real world tests of such solutions
are conducted.

It is also supposed to (and I say 'supposed' because I have no way of
proving such) help the tyre last (chemicals), it contains an
antifreeze so won't become immobile in the cold, it's non corrosive,
water soluble and lasts the life of the tyre. More importantly it
*won't* fix a puncture in the sidewall (just because of centrifugal
force) and will only fix holes up to a certain size as the likelihood
is anything bigger could cause further damage to the carcase of the
tyre itself.

It is also to actually reduce the chance of tyre damage during a
puncture because 1) any nail or whatever would be lubricated by the
solution and thrown out quickly, minimising the time the object spends
in the tyre (potentially doing damage) and 2) prevents the tyre being
run when partially deflated, minimising the risk of tyre heating and
potential blowout.

So, I fit it in all my trailers because you have even less 'feel' with
them if a puncture is slowly allowing a tyre to run deflated and it
being destroyed before you have chance to stop.

It is also fitted in most our motorbikes (as I get roundtuit).
daughters van and Corsa. (I would like to minimise the risk of her
being caught out as you were by something that could easily be avoided
completely).

So, I work on the principal I have seen it work on may occasions with
my own eyes and considering the cost (both of a damaged tyre or worse)
of a simple puncture it's actually very cheap. It also only took our
daughter some 30 minutes to apply it to all 4 tyres on her van herself
so there was no excuse there.

So, how does it differ from a 'traditional repair'?

Well, with a traditional repair the object may well still be stuck in
the tyre and could have been there for some time. Then they would
remove the tyre and inspect the inside for damage? Then, presuming the
tyre isn't 'damaged', they run a big rasp though the hole, potentially
further severing any cords that were exposed within the hole? Then
they apply some adhesive and pull a 'mushroom' plug though. So, the
plug is supposed to fill the hole with rubber and the patch on the
inside stop the plug coming out and repair the leak.

With Punctureseal the same thing happens except you object is most
often thrown out straight away (minimising / negating any further
damage) and rubber particles in the fluid fill the hole with rubber,
that is cured into place by the heat, pressure and centrifugal force.
That must work because I have never had a puncture fixed with
Puctureseal ever fail (or those that I never even knew about) and nor
has anyone else I know (I'm not saying it never has of course because
there will always be the exception to the rule).

However and depending on where you live (and how often you get
punctures), and if your vehicle is equipped with a real spare wheel
that you keep inflated ... and you have the tools, strength and skills
to change a wheel yourself, the 'risk' isn't as great as with say a
motorbike or trailer.

The Mrs recently wrote off a fairly new tyre when she caught it on a
broken kerbstone that was sticking out. As she was local she rang me
and I popped up and changed it for her as she was parked in a quiet
side road and it was easier and safer for me to do it than her.
Punctureseal wouldn't have helped in that occasion because it doesn't
stay on the sidewall (it can't) and the tear was too big in any case.

http://www.punctureseal.com/

As I mentioned elsewhere, I have no connection other than being a very
satisfied customer / user.

Cheers, T i m

On 12/08/2016 22:22, T i m wrote:

The Mrs picked me up from the station in the Sierra and as we pulled
away I heard the anti static strap dragging on the ground?.

Ah, somebody admits to having one of those on their car :-)

On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 00:23:30 +0100
Clive George wrote:

On 12/08/2016 22:22, T i m wrote:

The Mrs picked me up from the station in the Sierra and as we pulled
away I heard the anti static strap dragging on the ground?.

Ah, somebody admits to having one of those on their car :-)


But if it only drags on the ground when a tyre is low, usually it's
not doing anything.

--
Davey.

On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 00:38:53 +0100, Davey
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 00:23:30 +0100
Clive George wrote:

On 12/08/2016 22:22, T i m wrote:

The Mrs picked me up from the station in the Sierra and as we pulled
away I heard the anti static strap dragging on the ground?.

Ah, somebody admits to having one of those on their car :-)


But if it only drags on the ground when a tyre is low, usually it's
not doing anything.

That's not how it started out of course. ;-)

I think they must have forgotten to add the carbon to the set of tyres
that were on there at the time as you would *always* get a belt off it
as you got out (in the summer and pre fitting the anti-static strap).

By the time the strap had worn down (it was 'flying' off the ground
once you started moving), so had the tyres and the next set didn't
have the same issue.

Cheers, T i m

On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 00:23:30 +0100, Clive George
wrote:

On 12/08/2016 22:22, T i m wrote:

The Mrs picked me up from the station in the Sierra and as we pulled
away I heard the anti static strap dragging on the ground?.

Ah, somebody admits to having one of those on their car :-)

I'm also one of those who rarely does something for 'no reason',
especially if that involves buying something and laying under the car
to fit it (to the towbar).

Luckily, the carbon content of the anti-static strap was higher than
that of the tyres so I could get out and touch the door again in
comfort. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. As an aside I also had a tin can cutout and fitted over the
distributor and earth bonded to the chassis, just as I did with the
bonnet and tailgate in an effort to keep ignition noise out of my
company PMR (whisper and AM CB radio). ;-)

wrote:
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 12:32:06 PM UTC+1, F Murtz wrote:
David wrote:
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers


Dave R

This is DIY get a kit and DIY, it is easy put some goop on poke thing
with sticky string stuff on it in pull uot and cut off excess easy peasey.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKwvObmidh0

That's not a safe repair method.

Philip


It is the method used by the vast majority of repairs of nail in
tubeless tyres, I wonder could you show me an alternative method.(not
talking about tube type as they are becoming rare)

On 12/08/2016 10:22, bm wrote:
"David" wrote in message
...
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers

You missed 3 -
(3) Take to fixer to be told it's irrepairable put your hand in your pocket.

Must be 50 years since I heard "yes mate no prob, that'll be a quid".
Almost invariably it's a new tyre IME.


Not sure if it's luck, but my local independent offers internet prices
and takes the time to advise - he sorted an MOT advisory that was just
something stuck in the thread FOC.



--
Cheers, Rob

I have heard conflicting info on whether one should remove tacks from tyres.
One school ofthought suggests its safer to leave tem as to disturb it might
make it leak, the other is that even after removal any weak spot could end
up with a blow out rather then just a leak and hence be more dangerous, buy
a new tyre.
Luckily, not being a driver myself I note thiis sort of thing and wonder
what real people do, my guess is that they eeither leave it or remove it. as
for what can help bond the rubber together, I don't know.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"David" wrote in message
...
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers


Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On 13/08/2016 06:25, F Murtz wrote:
wrote:
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 12:32:06 PM UTC+1, F Murtz wrote:
David wrote:
Had the car serviced the other day, and they noted a nail in a rear
tyre,
but that there didn't seem to be any leakage.

I see two obvious options:

(1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done.
If air
leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying
for
them to do the first part of (1).

Going route (1) assumes that if the nail hasn't penetrated the inner
casing (or not enough to cause a leak) then all is O.K.

Does this seem a reasonable approach?

Cheers


Dave R

This is DIY get a kit and DIY, it is easy put some goop on poke thing
with sticky string stuff on it in pull uot and cut off excess easy
peasey.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKwvObmidh0

That's not a safe repair method.

Philip


It is the method used by the vast majority of repairs of nail in
tubeless tyres, I wonder could you show me an alternative method.(not
talking about tube type as they are becoming rare)

Most I have seen have a positive means of location inside the tyre, an
example he
http://www.tyresuppliers.ltd.uk/puncture-repairs.html

On 13/08/2016 06:25, F Murtz wrote:


It is the method used by the vast majority of repairs of nail in
tubeless tyres, I wonder could you show me an alternative method.(not
talking about tube type as they are becoming rare)


The repairs I've had done are from the inside of the tyre with a patch
that looks like a mushroom. The stalk is pulled through the tyre
(puncture hole) and the large head/patch is glued to the inside of the
tyre. This method also means that the state of the inside of the tyre
is checked for damage before the repair.

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On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 21:32:15 +0100, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:

Phil L wrote:
David wrote:
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 18:08:09 +0100, Phil L wrote:


If it hasn't penetrated all the way, then how do they repair it when
there isn't a hole on the inside to take a plug?

They send their sharp rasp like tool right the way through to make the
hole complete, then they fill the entire thing so that it's the same
thickness (if not thicker) rubber as the rest of the tyre.

I don't think anyone mentioned asking for a discount either - I think
that is termed a straw man where you suggest something stupid then
announce that it is a stupid idea.


1) Remove the nail myself and if there is no air leakage job done. If
air leaks, take to tyre place to fix.

(2) Take tyre to tyre place to fix - which may just result in paying
for them to do the first part of (1).

"paying for them to do the first part of (1)" means paying them to take
the nail out of the tyre when you were intending doing it yourself
If the nail has only penetrated through half the rubber, then what is
going to make it fail? Especially if it is in deep tread which is
designed to be worn away anyway.

Not a lot of logic there, I'm afraid.


Too much for you to accept, yes.

Others have put it more sensibly.

Save yourself the ten quid, pull the nail out yourself and then go for
a cruise down the motorway, this is obviously what you wanted to hear
and nothing else matters. It's of no consequence to me or anyone else.
Apart from you, and anyone else you take in the car that is. We're not
talking about pulling a nail out of a piece of skirting board here -
you're highly unlikely to be sitting on said skirting board at 70mph in
the near future

+1

The guy is obviously a skint Dickhead.
Hey! This could be the skint ****** Peter Hucker using a new handle.

Did the pot just call the kettle black??



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Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

En el artículo . com,
bm escribió:

(3) Take to fixer to be told it's irrepairable put your hand in your pocket.

Take it to a back street place and pay with folding stuff.

The run-flats on the Mini I had were not supposed to have punctures
repaired - new tyre - but the back street shops will do it.

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