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Default Cutting thin board

I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard of a piece
of furniture. I am not there just now so can't measure or anything but
the board is the type on the back of chests of drawers etc to complete
the look and to help try to prevent dust build up at the back.

The furniture will be positioned in front of the sockets and screwed
to the wall (to prevent tipping) so can't really be moved to access
these sockets .

Does anyone have a favourite method for cutting holes in this stuff
(at a guess 1/64th of an inch fibre board)?
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I think the back panels of cupboards would be more like 1/8" (3mm). A thickness of 1/64" would be more like cardboard. If these back panels are already in situ then my tool of choice would be a Multitool these would saw through ply or fibre board no problem, just make sure the area you are sawing out is supported with a scrap piece of wood that will prevent splintering on the backside of the cut.

Richard
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In article ,
soup wrote:
I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard of a piece
of furniture. I am not there just now so can't measure or anything but
the board is the type on the back of chests of drawers etc to complete
the look and to help try to prevent dust build up at the back.


The furniture will be positioned in front of the sockets and screwed
to the wall (to prevent tipping) so can't really be moved to access
these sockets .


Does anyone have a favourite method for cutting holes in this stuff
(at a guess 1/64th of an inch fibre board)?


I'd be amazed if it were that thin. More likely 1/8th inch. A jigsaw with
a fine blade would be my choice.

--
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Tricky Dicky wrote:
I think the back panels of cupboards would be more like 1/8" (3mm). A thickness
of 1/64" would be more like cardboard. If these back panels are already
in situ then my tool of choice would be a Multitool these would saw through
ply or fibre board no problem, just make sure the area you are sawing out
is supported with a scrap piece of wood that will prevent splintering on
the backside of the cut.

Yes, I agree, a multitool with a semicircular blade, much easier to
control than a jigsaw for this sort of job.

--
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Default Cutting thin board

soup wrote:
I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard of a piece
of furniture. I am not there just now so can't measure or anything but
the board is the type on the back of chests of drawers etc to complete
the look and to help try to prevent dust build up at the back.

The furniture will be positioned in front of the sockets and screwed
to the wall (to prevent tipping) so can't really be moved to access
these sockets .

Does anyone have a favourite method for cutting holes in this stuff
(at a guess 1/64th of an inch fibre board)?



Extremely unlikely to be 1/64 that less than .5 of a mm they do not make
fibreboard anywhere near that thin, it could be 1/8" or more.



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On 08/05/2016 14:30, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
A jigsaw with a fine blade would be my choice.


Think I will go with that,if I can't persuade SWMBO that a multitool is
needed.

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In message , soup
writes
On 08/05/2016 14:30, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
A jigsaw with a fine blade would be my choice.


Think I will go with that,if I can't persuade SWMBO that a multitool is
needed.


Huge performance difference between Green and Blue Bosch:-(


--
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In article ,
soup wrote:
On 08/05/2016 14:30, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
A jigsaw with a fine blade would be my choice.


Think I will go with that,if I can't persuade SWMBO that a multitool is
needed.


It would be better, but I assumed you'd not be asking the question if you
had one.

It's the sort of thing that can be cut in lots of different ways depending
on what tools you have.

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On 08/05/2016 17:27, F Murtz wrote:
Extremely unlikely to be 1/64 that less than .5 of a mm they do not make
fibreboard anywhere near that thin, it could be 1/8" or more.


Does anyone actually make fibreboard in genuine non-metric thicknesses?
At least, outside the USA. I'd have expected 3mm or 4mm.

--
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On 5/8/2016 6:00 PM, soup wrote:
On 08/05/2016 14:30, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
A jigsaw with a fine blade would be my choice.


Think I will go with that,if I can't persuade SWMBO that a multitool is
needed.


I'd say it was a perfect excuse to get a multi-tool. Not that it is
relevent in this case, but with these you could cut the hole with the
cupboard or cabinet in place (as long as you are confident there are no
wires or pipes between it and the wall).

Screwfix has an Erbauer for £43. Erbauer stuff is normally a bit
primitive, but might be OK.

There are jobs they can do neatly which nothing else can. I guess it
depends how much DIY you do.
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On 08/05/2016 14:14, soup wrote:
I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard of a piece
of furniture. I am not there just now so can't measure or anything but
the board is the type on the back of chests of drawers etc to complete
the look and to help try to prevent dust build up at the back.

The furniture will be positioned in front of the sockets and screwed
to the wall (to prevent tipping) so can't really be moved to access
these sockets .

Does anyone have a favourite method for cutting holes in this stuff
(at a guess 1/64th of an inch fibre board)?


How many are you doing? If doing lots, then make a template out of a bit
of ply, with a cutout sized a bit larger than the required size. Stick a
1/4" fluted cutter into a palm router, and fit a guide bush. Then just
slap the ply where you want the hole and route round.

For one or two, then the multimaster etc will do fine (or fein!)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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"soup" wrote in message
...
I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard of a piece
of furniture. I am not there just now so can't measure or anything but
the board is the type on the back of chests of drawers etc to complete
the look and to help try to prevent dust build up at the back.

The furniture will be positioned in front of the sockets and screwed
to the wall (to prevent tipping) so can't really be moved to access
these sockets .

Does anyone have a favourite method for cutting holes in this stuff
(at a guess 1/64th of an inch fibre board)?



Axe.

--
Adam

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newshound Wrote in message:
On 5/8/2016 6:00 PM, soup wrote:
On 08/05/2016 14:30, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
A jigsaw with a fine blade would be my choice.


Think I will go with that,if I can't persuade SWMBO that a multitool is
needed.


I'd say it was a perfect excuse to get a multi-tool. Not that it is
relevent in this case, but with these you could cut the hole with the
cupboard or cabinet in place (as long as you are confident there are no
wires or pipes between it and the wall).

Screwfix has an Erbauer for £43. Erbauer stuff is normally a bit
primitive, but might be OK.


I've got a one ( one of those, I need one now purchases) seems to
work fine, not used a more expensive one to compare
though.

There are jobs they can do neatly which nothing else can. I guess it
depends how much DIY you do.


Indeed.

--
--
Chris French


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On 08/05/2016 14:14, soup wrote:
I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard[1] of a piece
of furniture.


Done it . Used a jigsaw with a "fine wood" saw in it.

THANKS ALL

Left a much cleaner edge than I was expecting.

Did the whole drill holes at the corners, jigsaw between them then
back-cut into where the holes had been to neaten the corners. Took a
quarter of the time I was expecting and didn't have to sand smooth any
edges.

[1] This backboard was more a faced hardboard than a fibre board
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On 5/12/2016 9:24 AM, soup wrote:
On 08/05/2016 14:14, soup wrote:
I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard[1] of a piece
of furniture.


Done it . Used a jigsaw with a "fine wood" saw in it.

THANKS ALL

Left a much cleaner edge than I was expecting.

Did the whole drill holes at the corners, jigsaw between them then
back-cut into where the holes had been to neaten the corners. Took a
quarter of the time I was expecting and didn't have to sand smooth any
edges.

[1] This backboard was more a faced hardboard than a fibre board


Good result.

You will still need a multi-tool one day when you want to do something
like this in-situ!
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On 12/05/2016 11:55, newshound wrote:

You will still need a multi-tool one day when you want to do something
like this in-situ!


"Happens all the time dear , honest"
Do you think I'll get away with that? ;O)


Don't know why, or what I'll use them for, but this is definitely in
the tools I want list.
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On Thursday, 12 May 2016 12:18:44 UTC+1, soup wrote:
On 12/05/2016 11:55, newshound wrote:

You will still need a multi-tool one day when you want to do something
like this in-situ!


"Happens all the time dear , honest"
Do you think I'll get away with that? ;O)


Don't know why, or what I'll use them for, but this is definitely in
the tools I want list.


I don't use mine much, but very useful when nothing else does it.


NT
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In article ,
wrote:
On Thursday, 12 May 2016 12:18:44 UTC+1, soup wrote:
On 12/05/2016 11:55, newshound wrote:

You will still need a multi-tool one day when you want to do
something like this in-situ!


"Happens all the time dear , honest" Do you think I'll get away with
that? ;O)


Don't know why, or what I'll use them for, but this is definitely in
the tools I want list.


I don't use mine much, but very useful when nothing else does it.



Yes. But if I had the choice of only a jigsaw or it, the jigsaw would win
every time. So if someone has neither, the jigsaw would be the one to buy.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

I don't use mine much, but very useful when nothing else does it.



Yes. But if I had the choice of only a jigsaw or it, the jigsaw would win
every time. So if someone has neither, the jigsaw would be the one to buy.

I use my multi-tool far more often than my jig-saw, in fact I can't
remember when I last actually used the jig saw.

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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
wrote:
On Thursday, 12 May 2016 12:18:44 UTC+1, soup wrote:
On 12/05/2016 11:55, newshound wrote:

You will still need a multi-tool one day when you want to do
something like this in-situ!

"Happens all the time dear , honest" Do you think I'll get away with
that? ;O)


Don't know why, or what I'll use them for, but this is definitely in
the tools I want list.


I don't use mine much, but very useful when nothing else does it.



Yes. But if I had the choice of only a jigsaw or it, the jigsaw would win
every time.


More fool you.

So if someone has neither, the jigsaw would be the one to buy.


Wrong, as always. They are quite a bit cheaper tho.


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In article , Rod Speed
wrote:
Yes. But if I had the choice of only a jigsaw or it, the jigsaw would
win every time.


More fool you.


So if someone has neither, the jigsaw would be the one to buy.


Wrong, as always. They are quite a bit cheaper tho.


Since you don't have a clue on how to trim the bottom of a door, I'll take
your views on woodworking tools in much the same way as most of the rest
of the ****e you spout.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
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On 5/13/2016 2:07 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
On Thursday, 12 May 2016 12:18:44 UTC+1, soup wrote:
On 12/05/2016 11:55, newshound wrote:

You will still need a multi-tool one day when you want to do
something like this in-situ!

"Happens all the time dear , honest" Do you think I'll get away with
that? ;O)


Don't know why, or what I'll use them for, but this is definitely in
the tools I want list.


I don't use mine much, but very useful when nothing else does it.



Yes. But if I had the choice of only a jigsaw or it, the jigsaw would win
every time. So if someone has neither, the jigsaw would be the one to buy.


Agreed. And worth spending a bit more on a nice one with good speed
control and adjustable "pendulum" action.
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In article ,
newshound wrote:
Yes. But if I had the choice of only a jigsaw or it, the jigsaw would
win every time. So if someone has neither, the jigsaw would be the one
to buy.


Agreed. And worth spending a bit more on a nice one with good speed
control and adjustable "pendulum" action.


Other think to look for is easy blade change. I use mine for cutting ally
too - so am forever swapping blades.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
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wrote in message ...
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

I don't use mine much, but very useful when nothing else does it.



Yes. But if I had the choice of only a jigsaw or it, the jigsaw would win
every time. So if someone has neither, the jigsaw would be the one to
buy.

I use my multi-tool far more often than my jig-saw, in fact I can't
remember when I last actually used the jig saw.


I can, but it was in the days before I had a multitool.

Haven't used it since.

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Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote


Yes. But if I had the choice of only a jigsaw
or it, the jigsaw would win every time.


More fool you.


So if someone has neither, the jigsaw would be the one to buy.


Wrong, as always. They are quite a bit cheaper tho.


Since you don't have a clue on how to trim the bottom of a door,


How odd that it was the same as most who commented on
that, including the OP who trimmed his door fine that way.

And no one actually agree with your stupid comment about jigsaws either.

reams of your trademark desperate attempts at insults any
2 year old could leave for dead flushed where it belongs

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In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote


Yes. But if I had the choice of only a jigsaw
or it, the jigsaw would win every time.


More fool you.


So if someone has neither, the jigsaw would be the one to buy.


Wrong, as always. They are quite a bit cheaper tho.


Since you don't have a clue on how to trim the bottom of a door,


How odd that it was the same as most who commented on
that, including the OP who trimmed his door fine that way.


And no one actually agree with your stupid comment about jigsaws either.


Thanks for confirming you never actually read a thread before posting.

Or more likely don't understand it.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
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I have always had a jigsaw and never saw the attraction of multi tools, but a couple of years back I picked up a cheap and cheerful one at Lidl and after my combi drill it is the most used power tool. It does not replace specific tools for various jobs but is really handy for those awkward little jobs and mine has been used for lots of different tasks. If it packed up tomorrow I would still feel I had my money's worth and would immediately replace it with a new one : )

Richard
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In article ,
Tricky Dicky wrote:
I have always had a jigsaw and never saw the attraction of multi tools,
but a couple of years back I picked up a cheap and cheerful one at Lidl
and after my combi drill it is the most used power tool. It does not
replace specific tools for various jobs but is really handy for those
awkward little jobs and mine has been used for lots of different tasks.
If it packed up tomorrow I would still feel I had my money's worth and
would immediately replace it with a new one : )


They are very useful. I've got three. A Fein. And a Lidl mains one because
of the cheaper blades. And an Aldi cordless.

All very useful when needed. But still use a jigsaw more frequently. ;-)

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
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"newshound" wrote in message
...
On 5/13/2016 2:07 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
On Thursday, 12 May 2016 12:18:44 UTC+1, soup wrote:
On 12/05/2016 11:55, newshound wrote:

You will still need a multi-tool one day when you want to do
something like this in-situ!

"Happens all the time dear , honest" Do you think I'll get away with
that? ;O)


Don't know why, or what I'll use them for, but this is definitely in
the tools I want list.


I don't use mine much, but very useful when nothing else does it.



Yes. But if I had the choice of only a jigsaw or it, the jigsaw would win
every time. So if someone has neither, the jigsaw would be the one to
buy.


Agreed.


Mad, a multitool does so much more.

And worth spending a bit more on a nice one with good speed control and
adjustable "pendulum" action.


By which time you are spending as much as you would with a multitool.

It is certainly possible to make a case that a cheap jigsaw
is better for some stuff than a multitool just because it is
significantly cheaper and if you say just want to cut some
copper plumbing pipe in situ, may be better value, but
once you start spending a similar amount, the fact that
the multitool can do so much more means that it is the
best thing to buy if you can only have one or the other,
unless you are only going to do what a jigsaw can do.

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In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
It is certainly possible to make a case that a cheap jigsaw
is better for some stuff than a multitool just because it is
significantly cheaper and if you say just want to cut some
copper plumbing pipe in situ, may be better value, but
once you start spending a similar amount, the fact that
the multitool can do so much more means that it is the
best thing to buy if you can only have one or the other,
unless you are only going to do what a jigsaw can do.


So you cut copper plumbing with a saw. Did you get that from the same book
that told you how to fit a door?

--
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On 5/14/2016 5:14 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
newshound wrote:
Yes. But if I had the choice of only a jigsaw or it, the jigsaw would
win every time. So if someone has neither, the jigsaw would be the one
to buy.


Agreed. And worth spending a bit more on a nice one with good speed
control and adjustable "pendulum" action.


Other think to look for is easy blade change. I use mine for cutting ally
too - so am forever swapping blades.

Good point. The Bosch one is nice.
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On 16/05/2016 11:18, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
It is certainly possible to make a case that a cheap jigsaw
is better for some stuff than a multitool just because it is
significantly cheaper and if you say just want to cut some
copper plumbing pipe in situ, may be better value, but
once you start spending a similar amount, the fact that
the multitool can do so much more means that it is the
best thing to buy if you can only have one or the other,
unless you are only going to do what a jigsaw can do.


So you cut copper plumbing with a saw. Did you get that from the same book
that told you how to fit a door?


LOL I do confess when space doesn't permit the proper tool, to resort to
a junior hacksaw or a multitool to cut a copper pipe!

Hell, only yesterday I used a plane to remove 3mm from the bottom of a
door! Still think the saw board is a better way though!
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In article ,
Fredxxx wrote:
So you cut copper plumbing with a saw. Did you get that from the same
book that told you how to fit a door?


LOL I do confess when space doesn't permit the proper tool, to resort to
a junior hacksaw or a multitool to cut a copper pipe!


;-). Of course. But never miss an opportunity of winding up Wodney.

I do have a very small pipe cutter specifically for use in confined
spaces, though.

Hell, only yesterday I used a plane to remove 3mm from the bottom of a
door! Still think the saw board is a better way though!


Once you've established the method of using a circular saw with a guide of
some sort, all others seem hard work.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote


It is certainly possible to make a case that a cheap jigsaw
is better for some stuff than a multitool just because it is
significantly cheaper and if you say just want to cut some
copper plumbing pipe in situ, may be better value, but
once you start spending a similar amount, the fact that
the multitool can do so much more means that it is the
best thing to buy if you can only have one or the other,
unless you are only going to do what a jigsaw can do.


So you cut copper plumbing with a saw.


It can be the easiest way to do that when it is buried
in the ground and you have to dig a decent hole to
cut it and put a tap or a solenoid valve in there.

Did you get that from the same book


Don’t need any book for something like that.

that told you how to fit a door?


TRIM a door, ****wit.

The same way that most who commented on doing
it in here do it, including the OP who managed that
fine that way, unlike some terminal ****wit union
bludger who proclaimed that wasn’t even possible
to do it with a power plane.

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In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
So you cut copper plumbing with a saw.


It can be the easiest way to do that when it is buried
in the ground and you have to dig a decent hole to
cut it and put a tap or a solenoid valve in there.


An everyday occasion, then. Well worth buying a special expensive tool
for.

Did you get that from the same book


Don’t need any book for something like that.


that told you how to fit a door?


TRIM a door, ****wit.


Ah - at least you've admitted you remember talking ****e.

--
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"Fredxxx" wrote in message
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On 16/05/2016 11:18, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
It is certainly possible to make a case that a cheap jigsaw
is better for some stuff than a multitool just because it is
significantly cheaper and if you say just want to cut some
copper plumbing pipe in situ, may be better value, but
once you start spending a similar amount, the fact that
the multitool can do so much more means that it is the
best thing to buy if you can only have one or the other,
unless you are only going to do what a jigsaw can do.


So you cut copper plumbing with a saw. Did you get that from the same
book
that told you how to fit a door?


LOL I do confess when space doesn't permit the proper tool, to resort to a
junior hacksaw or a multitool to cut a copper pipe!


And a jigsaw works fine before multitools were invented
and are much cheaper if you only do that rarely and don’t
already have either and are a lot more convenient than a
junior hacksaw.

Hell, only yesterday I used a plane to remove 3mm from the bottom of a
door! Still think the saw board is a better way though!


Not necessarily, particularly if the floor isnt very even and
you need to take more off in some places than others and
you have enough of a clue to know how to avoid splintering
the minimal amount of end grain most doors have.

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Default Cutting thin board

In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
Hell, only yesterday I used a plane to remove 3mm from the bottom of a
door! Still think the saw board is a better way though!


Not necessarily, particularly if the floor isnt very even and
you need to take more off in some places than others


That would be on a door you don't actually open? ;-)

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Default Cutting thin board

Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote


So you cut copper plumbing with a saw.


It can be the easiest way to do that when it is buried
in the ground and you have to dig a decent hole to
cut it and put a tap or a solenoid valve in there.


An everyday occasion, then.


Never said anything about it being an every day occasion,
in fact I actually said that in SOME situations a jigsaw can
be the best tool for the job if only because the cheapest
ones are much cheaper than a multitool and if you are
only going to use that tool for that uncommon job,
it may well be the best tool to use for that unusual job.

Well worth buying a special expensive tool for.


I in fact said the exact opposite, that the cheapest jigsaw
will be fine for that unusual job if you don't plan to do
anything that a jigsaw is useful for as well, ever.

Did you get that from the same book


Don't need any book for something like that.


that told you how to fit a door?


TRIM a door, ****wit.


Ah - at least you've admitted you remember talking ****e.


How odd that almost everyone else who commented on how
they trim doors also said that they have done it with a power
planer, in spite of your stupid claim that it isnt possible.

Including the OP who had asked about how to trim a door
and who had never done one before. Worked fine for him too.
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