[soup[_8_]]

I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard of a piece
of furniture. I am not there just now so can't measure or anything but
the board is the type on the back of chests of drawers etc to complete
the look and to help try to prevent dust build up at the back.

The furniture will be positioned in front of the sockets and screwed
to the wall (to prevent tipping) so can't really be moved to access
these sockets .

Does anyone have a favourite method for cutting holes in this stuff
(at a guess 1/64th of an inch fibre board)?

[Tricky Dicky[_4_]]

I think the back panels of cupboards would be more like 1/8" (3mm). A thickness of 1/64" would be more like cardboard. If these back panels are already in situ then my tool of choice would be a Multitool these would saw through ply or fibre board no problem, just make sure the area you are sawing out is supported with a scrap piece of wood that will prevent splintering on the backside of the cut.

Richard

[[email protected]]

Tricky Dicky wrote:
I think the back panels of cupboards would be more like 1/8" (3mm). A thickness
of 1/64" would be more like cardboard. If these back panels are already
in situ then my tool of choice would be a Multitool these would saw through
ply or fibre board no problem, just make sure the area you are sawing out
is supported with a scrap piece of wood that will prevent splintering on
the backside of the cut.

Yes, I agree, a multitool with a semicircular blade, much easier to
control than a jigsaw for this sort of job.

--
Chris Green
·

[soup[_8_]]

On 08/05/2016 14:56, wrote:
Tricky Dicky wrote:
I think the back panels of cupboards would be more like 1/8" (3mm). A thickness
of 1/64" would be more like cardboard. If these back panels are already
in situ then my tool of choice would be a Multitool these would saw through
ply or fibre board no problem, just make sure the area you are sawing out
is supported with a scrap piece of wood that will prevent splintering on
the backside of the cut.

Yes, I agree, a multitool with a semicircular blade, much easier to
control than a jigsaw for this sort of job.

Yeah thinking about it 1/64th does seem a bit (a BIT!) thin.
Not got a multitool (thinks maybe an excuse w reason to get one).
Shall probably have to go with a jigsaw with a Fine blade.

[The Natural Philosopher[_2_]]

On 08/05/16 17:58, soup wrote:
On 08/05/2016 14:56, wrote:
Tricky Dicky wrote:
I think the back panels of cupboards would be more like 1/8" (3mm). A
thickness
of 1/64" would be more like cardboard. If these back panels are already
in situ then my tool of choice would be a Multitool these would saw
through
ply or fibre board no problem, just make sure the area you are sawing
out
is supported with a scrap piece of wood that will prevent splintering on
the backside of the cut.

Yes, I agree, a multitool with a semicircular blade, much easier to
control than a jigsaw for this sort of job.

Yeah thinking about it 1/64th does seem a bit (a BIT!) thin.
Not got a multitool (thinks maybe an excuse w reason to get one).
Shall probably have to go with a jigsaw with a Fine blade.


laser cutter


--
"I am inclined to tell the truth and dislike people who lie consistently.
This makes me unfit for the company of people of a Left persuasion, and
all women"

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
soup wrote:
I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard of a piece
of furniture. I am not there just now so can't measure or anything but
the board is the type on the back of chests of drawers etc to complete
the look and to help try to prevent dust build up at the back.

The furniture will be positioned in front of the sockets and screwed
to the wall (to prevent tipping) so can't really be moved to access
these sockets .

Does anyone have a favourite method for cutting holes in this stuff
(at a guess 1/64th of an inch fibre board)?

I'd be amazed if it were that thin. More likely 1/8th inch. A jigsaw with
a fine blade would be my choice.

--
*Taxation WITH representation ain't much fun, either.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[soup[_8_]]

On 08/05/2016 14:30, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
A jigsaw with a fine blade would be my choice.

Think I will go with that,if I can't persuade SWMBO that a multitool is
needed.

[Tim Lamb[_2_]]

In message , soup
writes
On 08/05/2016 14:30, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
A jigsaw with a fine blade would be my choice.

Think I will go with that,if I can't persuade SWMBO that a multitool is
needed.

Huge performance difference between Green and Blue Bosch:-(


--
Tim Lamb

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
soup wrote:
On 08/05/2016 14:30, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
A jigsaw with a fine blade would be my choice.

Think I will go with that,if I can't persuade SWMBO that a multitool is
needed.

It would be better, but I assumed you'd not be asking the question if you
had one.

It's the sort of thing that can be cut in lots of different ways depending
on what tools you have.

--
*Velcro - what a rip off!*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[newshound]

On 5/8/2016 6:00 PM, soup wrote:
On 08/05/2016 14:30, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
A jigsaw with a fine blade would be my choice.

Think I will go with that,if I can't persuade SWMBO that a multitool is
needed.


I'd say it was a perfect excuse to get a multi-tool. Not that it is
relevent in this case, but with these you could cut the hole with the
cupboard or cabinet in place (as long as you are confident there are no
wires or pipes between it and the wall).

Screwfix has an Erbauer for £43. Erbauer stuff is normally a bit
primitive, but might be OK.

There are jobs they can do neatly which nothing else can. I guess it
depends how much DIY you do.

[Chris French]

newshound Wrote in message:
On 5/8/2016 6:00 PM, soup wrote:
On 08/05/2016 14:30, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
A jigsaw with a fine blade would be my choice.

Think I will go with that,if I can't persuade SWMBO that a multitool is
needed.


I'd say it was a perfect excuse to get a multi-tool. Not that it is
relevent in this case, but with these you could cut the hole with the
cupboard or cabinet in place (as long as you are confident there are no
wires or pipes between it and the wall).

Screwfix has an Erbauer for £43. Erbauer stuff is normally a bit
primitive, but might be OK.


I've got a one ( one of those, I need one now purchases) seems to
work fine, not used a more expensive one to compare
though.

There are jobs they can do neatly which nothing else can. I guess it
depends how much DIY you do.


Indeed.

--
--
Chris French

[F Murtz]

soup wrote:
I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard of a piece
of furniture. I am not there just now so can't measure or anything but
the board is the type on the back of chests of drawers etc to complete
the look and to help try to prevent dust build up at the back.

The furniture will be positioned in front of the sockets and screwed
to the wall (to prevent tipping) so can't really be moved to access
these sockets .

Does anyone have a favourite method for cutting holes in this stuff
(at a guess 1/64th of an inch fibre board)?


Extremely unlikely to be 1/64 that less than .5 of a mm they do not make
fibreboard anywhere near that thin, it could be 1/8" or more.

[polygonum]

On 08/05/2016 17:27, F Murtz wrote:
Extremely unlikely to be 1/64 that less than .5 of a mm they do not make
fibreboard anywhere near that thin, it could be 1/8" or more.

Does anyone actually make fibreboard in genuine non-metric thicknesses?
At least, outside the USA. I'd have expected 3mm or 4mm.

--
Rod

[John Rumm]

On 08/05/2016 14:14, soup wrote:
I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard of a piece
of furniture. I am not there just now so can't measure or anything but
the board is the type on the back of chests of drawers etc to complete
the look and to help try to prevent dust build up at the back.

The furniture will be positioned in front of the sockets and screwed
to the wall (to prevent tipping) so can't really be moved to access
these sockets .

Does anyone have a favourite method for cutting holes in this stuff
(at a guess 1/64th of an inch fibre board)?

How many are you doing? If doing lots, then make a template out of a bit
of ply, with a cutout sized a bit larger than the required size. Stick a
1/4" fluted cutter into a palm router, and fit a guide bush. Then just
slap the ply where you want the hole and route round.

For one or two, then the multimaster etc will do fine (or fein!)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

[ARW]

"soup" wrote in message
...
I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard of a piece
of furniture. I am not there just now so can't measure or anything but
the board is the type on the back of chests of drawers etc to complete
the look and to help try to prevent dust build up at the back.

The furniture will be positioned in front of the sockets and screwed
to the wall (to prevent tipping) so can't really be moved to access
these sockets .

Does anyone have a favourite method for cutting holes in this stuff
(at a guess 1/64th of an inch fibre board)?


Axe.

--
Adam

[soup[_8_]]

On 08/05/2016 14:14, soup wrote:
I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard[1] of a piece
of furniture.

Done it . Used a jigsaw with a "fine wood" saw in it.

THANKS ALL

Left a much cleaner edge than I was expecting.

Did the whole drill holes at the corners, jigsaw between them then
back-cut into where the holes had been to neaten the corners. Took a
quarter of the time I was expecting and didn't have to sand smooth any
edges.

[1] This backboard was more a faced hardboard than a fibre board

[newshound]

On 5/12/2016 9:24 AM, soup wrote:
On 08/05/2016 14:14, soup wrote:
I have to put electrical socket access holes in a backboard[1] of a piece
of furniture.

Done it . Used a jigsaw with a "fine wood" saw in it.

THANKS ALL

Left a much cleaner edge than I was expecting.

Did the whole drill holes at the corners, jigsaw between them then
back-cut into where the holes had been to neaten the corners. Took a
quarter of the time I was expecting and didn't have to sand smooth any
edges.

[1] This backboard was more a faced hardboard than a fibre board

Good result.

You will still need a multi-tool one day when you want to do something
like this in-situ!

[soup[_8_]]

On 12/05/2016 11:55, newshound wrote:

You will still need a multi-tool one day when you want to do something
like this in-situ!

"Happens all the time dear , honest"
Do you think I'll get away with that? ;O)


Don't know why, or what I'll use them for, but this is definitely in
the tools I want list.

[[email protected]]

On Thursday, 12 May 2016 12:18:44 UTC+1, soup wrote:
On 12/05/2016 11:55, newshound wrote:

You will still need a multi-tool one day when you want to do something
like this in-situ!

"Happens all the time dear , honest"
Do you think I'll get away with that? ;O)


Don't know why, or what I'll use them for, but this is definitely in
the tools I want list.

I don't use mine much, but very useful when nothing else does it.


NT

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
wrote:
On Thursday, 12 May 2016 12:18:44 UTC+1, soup wrote:
On 12/05/2016 11:55, newshound wrote:

You will still need a multi-tool one day when you want to do
something like this in-situ!

"Happens all the time dear , honest" Do you think I'll get away with
that? ;O)


Don't know why, or what I'll use them for, but this is definitely in
the tools I want list.

I don't use mine much, but very useful when nothing else does it.


Yes. But if I had the choice of only a jigsaw or it, the jigsaw would win
every time. So if someone has neither, the jigsaw would be the one to buy.

--
*To steal ideas from *one* person is plagiarism; from many, research*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.