I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.

"k" wrote in message
ps.com...
I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.

When I need thin strips like this I use the following procedu
I make multiple cuts in the board to the size of one dimension. I
then take all the thin strips of wood and tape them together across the
ends. Set up saw and make multiple cuts for the other dimension. This
usually requires the resetting of the fence for each cut. I find that 4 ft
boards work better then 8 ft boards for this. Push sticks, feather boards
and masking tape are VERY helpful for this type of operation. (Unless I
need more then a few hundred I will normally use a band saw and resaw
techniques for the job rather then a table saw) Any one else have a better
method or clearer instructions.

k wrote:
I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.


What wood were you planning to use?

I'd consider getting some 1/8" or 1/4" thick poplar and then do the
cutting on the bandsaw. It's been a few years, but Home Depot stocked
1/8" x 4" x 36" poplar at reasonable prices. (it might have been 1/8" x
6" x 24" -- don't recall exactly.)

they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?.

Sounds like some good suggestions so far, but you might not even have
to make them - Lee Valley has a selection of strips that might work
"as is".
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,250,43217
They don't list widths, but the 1/8" thick strips might be perfect, or
you could somehow trim down the 1/4" strips.
Hope this helps,
Andy

k wrote:
I want to make some house construction projects with my students.
We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be
1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous
of
cutting a finger on the table saw.

Balsa strips from the hobby shop.

An Xacto knife will cut them to length.

Lew


What wood were you planning to use?

I'd consider getting some 1/8" or 1/4" thick poplar and then do the
cutting on the bandsaw. It's been a few years, but Home Depot
stocked
1/8" x 4" x 36" poplar at reasonable prices. (it might have been
1/8" x
6" x 24" -- don't recall exactly.)

I did this some time in the past, and here's what worked for me.

In order to work well for a model, the wood has to be stronger than balsa.
I used aspen, but there are other 1/8" thick craft woods available. The
pieces also have to be almost exactly uniform to get a good result.

I made a sled out of 3/4" stock and some masonite that would push the wood
through the saw with the edge 1/4" away from the blade. I bought 1/8" aspen
(about 6 x 24") from Menards. Michaels Hobby has it too.

Using the sled, I didn't have to reset the fence each time, and the results
were almost uniform in width. I pressed against the outside edge to keep
the wood in place on the sled. When the outside edge got uncomfortably
close to the blade, I abandoned the narrow piece and started another.

A few pieces went down the saw slot, I don't know how. A zero clearance
plate would have helped, but I didn't make one. With a regular blade, I
made almost as much sawdust as product. A band saw would be more efficient.

A light swipe with sandpaper took care of the whiskers, and I got a lot of
scale board feet of lumber.

BTW, you and your students will probably discover that you need to make a
jig to get anywhere near uniform "stud" spacing.

Old Guy



"k" wrote in message
ps.com...
I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 19:16:38 -0700, k
wrote:

I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.


When cutting small or thin pieces on the table saw, use a much larger
piece against the fence to allow a thin slice to fall off away from
the saw. It also helps to have a zero-clearance throat plate,
featherboard, and your DC running. The larger piece should be squared
up and flat on all sides. If you don't have a table saw, a band saw
will work reasonably well.

Maxwell Lol wrote:
"BobS" writes:

4. Keep the thin cut to the left side of the blade

i.e. The side away from the fence.



Not for me.

I would cut the OP's strips by starting with a 1/4" plank.

- Install a zero clearance insert with a SHORT (low height, shorter than
the stock is thick) shop-made splitter
- Set the fence for 1/8"
- Set the blade height ~ 9-10/32" (1/32-1/16" above the stock.
- Use two push BLOCKS (not sticks) to run the stock through. Walk the
blocks hand over hand, knowing in advance that the rubber on the bottom
of the block will be grooved by the blade. Concentrate the forces down
at the splitter and slightly toward the fence. You'll need less force
than you'd think. I often stand to the side of the saw, jointer-style
for this operation.
- Enjoy perfect strips

Go to http://www.bburke.com/woodworking/shopmadejigsandtools.html and
scroll down to the "push blocks with sacrificial pads". The ZCS w/
splitter is easily made like the version shown on the same page.

I've cut miles of thin spruce, maple, poplar, bass, and plywood strips
for large scale R/C, as well as oak "slip tongues" for hardwood flooring
using this method.

k wrote:
I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.

Craft shop. Balsa wood comes in that size. Cheap.

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 19:16:38 -0700, k wrote:

I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.

Go to any model railroad hobby shop. Or look at:

http://www.kapplerusa.com/

"k" wrote in message
ps.com...
I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.

I cut some 1/4x1/4 yesterday. It wasn't a big deal.
You need something to hold the wood against the fence, and a stick to hold
the wood down, but there is no reason to have your fingers near the blade.

If I wanted them in large quantities I would have cut a 1/8" sheet on the
bandsaw and then trimmed on the table saw, but I only needed 15'.

Save yourself the time, cost of set up, dangers of cutting many thin scale
boards, cost of a good blade to get decent sticks, and on and on . . .
Many reasons why it is just cheaper, more consistent, and better to just buy
what you need. I highly recommend Balsa or Basswood.

Several years ago I wanted to build historically accurate scale houses, not
doll houses per se', but smaller desk top homes with scale dimensional
boards that are not just the today's standard 2 x 4's, 6's, 8's, 10's, and
12's. I had to cut my own to get what I wanted and I have learned
considerably since then.

If you need help with your project, I can help you and/or point you in a
good direction. If you need the supplies, I can help you there also.
Working with educators to build houses, bridges and towers for the Science
Olympiad competitions, and in general working with wood in the class is what
I do. My prices are cost effective for teachers and students, all the wood
is in bundle quantities and well taken care of.

If you only need enough for a few students and are building very simple and
limited structures of only a few walls, any hobby or craft store will
probably have enough in stock for you? Maybe, they are limited on
quantities and condition varies. And most of all, you will need more wood
than generally comes to mind when you think about building a little scale
house! History has taught me that but I live for physics, engineering,
automata's, and math.

You can respond directly if you need any further help and if you need the
wood, go to my site located below. Don't worry about the site seal. Trying
to renew after changing servers has proven to be a real headache and long
process.

Have fun with the process,
Patrick



At the risk of self promotion,

www.woodbythebundle.com

P. G. Bray's "WoodByTheBundle.com"
Support your local Science Olympiad team and future scientist or engineer.

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip111700wb.html

is an excellent and safe way to cut the thin stuff..

k wrote:

I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.

k wrote:
I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.


You can buy basswood in many small sizes that would work well for this.
Stronger than balsa, and very fine grain that looks appropriate for
modeling. You can it get it at shops that carry model railroading supplies

I wouldn't use a table saw to make this stuff. A band saw is MUCH MUCH
safer for this kind of work. I use a 14" Ridgid to make the braces and
bindings for my acoustic guitars. It helps to have a drum sander to
sand 'em smooth afterwards.

--Steve

Thu, Oct 18, 2007, 7:50am (B*A*R*R*Y)
doth adviseth:
snip Use two push BLOCKS (not sticks) to run the stock through. Walk
the blocks hand over hand, knowing in advance that the rubber on the
bottom of the block will be grooved by the blade. Concentrate the forces
down at the splitter and slightly toward the fence. You'll need less
force than you'd think. I often stand to the side of the saw,
jointer-style for this operation.
- Enjoy perfect strips
Go to http://www.bburke.com/woodworking/shopmadejigsandtools.html and
scroll down to the "push blocks with sacrificial pads". snip

That's basically my thoughts. Except I might well use one push
block, not two, and one push stick - depending on the mood, chill
factor, time of day, etc.. However, I don't buy push sticks or blocks,
I make my own. Too pricey, and get chewed up waaaay too fast, to keep
buying, and way easy to make anyway. Besides, buy one and it's someone
elses idea of what you need.



JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."

Thu, Oct 18, 2007, 7:14pm (EDT+4)
(Pat*Barber) doth post:
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip111700wb.html
is an excellent and safe way to cut the thin stuff..

OK, that's your opinion. Not mine. Apparently the guy is standing
behind the wood - not good in case of kickback. Where's his left hand?
And, what's the lef hand doing? I'd be leery of my hand slipping on top
of that board. I'd be too scared to cut that way. And, no push blocks,
or push sticks?



JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."

"k" wrote in message
ps.com...
I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.


First off, to be to closer to scale you want to go 1/8 x 11/32". 2x4's
measure out to 1.5" x 3.5".

I would us Balsa wood and cut with an Exacta, or utility knife. Get the
wood at a hobby store.

On 18 Oct, 21:24, "Leon" wrote:



First off, to be to closer to scale you want to go 1/8 x 11/32". 2x4's
measure out to 1.5" x 3.5".



I think you should get rid of that rule of yours.

Limey Lurker wrote:
On 18 Oct, 21:24, "Leon" wrote:



First off, to be to closer to scale you want to go 1/8 x 11/32". 2x4's
measure out to 1.5" x 3.5".



I think you should get rid of that rule of yours.


Actually, if the scale is 1 inch = 1 foot, the correct dimensions for an
in-scale 2 x 4 (actually 1.5" x 3.5") would be 1/8" x 9/32"

If the scale is 1 to 16, then the correct dimensions would be 3/32" x 7/32"

--Steve

"Steve" wrote in message
...
Limey Lurker wrote:


Actually, if the scale is 1 inch = 1 foot, the correct dimensions for an
in-scale 2 x 4 (actually 1.5" x 3.5") would be 1/8" x 9/32"


Yeah, my mistake, assuming the 1/8 as the base, 9/32" would be the closest
to 32nds?

"Limey Lurker" wrote in message
ups.com...
On 18 Oct, 21:24, "Leon" wrote:



I think you should get rid of that rule of yours.


No actually that would be the bad entry in my spread sheet. LOL

Leon wrote:
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Limey Lurker wrote:

Actually, if the scale is 1 inch = 1 foot, the correct dimensions for an
in-scale 2 x 4 (actually 1.5" x 3.5") would be 1/8" x 9/32"


Yeah, my mistake, assuming the 1/8 as the base, 9/32" would be the closest
to 32nds?



The correct dimension is actually .275" which slightly less than 9/32"

--Steve

"Steve" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Limey Lurker wrote:

Actually, if the scale is 1 inch = 1 foot, the correct dimensions for an
in-scale 2 x 4 (actually 1.5" x 3.5") would be 1/8" x 9/32"


Yeah, my mistake, assuming the 1/8 as the base, 9/32" would be the
closest to 32nds?

The correct dimension is actually .275" which slightly less than 9/32"

--Steve

Well if we are splitting hairs, ;~) If the 2x4 the true size is 1.5" x 3.5"
and if the 1.5" is scaled down to .125"(1/8"), The other would be
..29166.....

k wrote:
I want to make some house construction projects with my students.
We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be
1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.

If you've got a band saw and a planer you could try it this way--resaw
a board into pieces maybe 5/16 thick, then plane to 1/4. Now, cut
those into maybe 3/16 strips. Plane to 1/8. Experiment first to get
the right dimensions so that you can plane both sides smooth with
enough allowance to get your finish dimension--the amount of allowance
you need is going to depend on your particular tools and skill level.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

J. Clarke wrote:
Plane to 1/8. Experiment first to get
the right dimensions so that you can plane both sides smooth with
enough allowance to get your finish dimension--the amount of allowance
you need is going to depend on your particular tools and skill level.


Do you know what most planers will do to a 1/8" x 1/4" strip?

I do, as I've tried it. G

If I could reliably thickness plane to 1/8" thick without all kinds of
faffing around with sleds, etc... I could have spent the cost of my
Performax 22/44.

B A R R Y wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Plane to 1/8. Experiment first to get the right dimensions so that
you can plane both sides smooth with enough allowance to get your
finish dimension--the amount of allowance you need is going to depend
on your particular tools and skill level.


Do you know what most planers will do to a 1/8" x 1/4" strip?

I do, as I've tried it. G

If I could reliably thickness plane to 1/8" thick without all kinds of
faffing around with sleds, etc... I could have spent the cost of my
Performax 22/44.


"Elsewhere" got chopped off the end of the last sentence by my brain! G

B A R R Y wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Plane to 1/8. Experiment first to get
the right dimensions so that you can plane both sides smooth with
enough allowance to get your finish dimension--the amount of
allowance you need is going to depend on your particular tools and
skill level.


Do you know what most planers will do to a 1/8" x 1/4" strip?

I do, as I've tried it. G

If I could reliably thickness plane to 1/8" thick without all kinds
of
faffing around with sleds, etc... I could have spent the cost of my
Performax 22/44.

Chews the Hell out of the first and last six inches or so, where the
piece is not being held down by both rollers. Accept it and treat
them as throwaways.

Of course I've got a radial arm saw. One thing it does _real_ good is
cut thin slices off a piece of 1/4 inch stock. But since he probably
doesn't have one . . .

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Leon wrote:
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Limey Lurker wrote:
Actually, if the scale is 1 inch = 1 foot, the correct dimensions for an
in-scale 2 x 4 (actually 1.5" x 3.5") would be 1/8" x 9/32"

Yeah, my mistake, assuming the 1/8 as the base, 9/32" would be the
closest to 32nds?
The correct dimension is actually .275" which slightly less than 9/32"

--Steve

Well if we are splitting hairs, ;~) If the 2x4 the true size is 1.5" x 3.5"
and if the 1.5" is scaled down to .125"(1/8"), The other would be
.29166.....


Ooops - you're right. Not sure what I did there, but 9/32" is still
pretty close.

--Steve

J. Clarke wrote:

Chews the Hell out of the first and last six inches or so, where the
piece is not being held down by both rollers. Accept it and treat
them as throwaways.


But the Performax works MUCH better for that kind of work. :-) Mine is
a 10/20.

--Steve

"Steve" wrote in message
...


Ooops - you're right. Not sure what I did there, but 9/32" is still
pretty close.


You probably did what I did the first time. LOL.

On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 14:32:11 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:


Chews the Hell out of the first and last six inches or so, where the
piece is not being held down by both rollers. Accept it and treat
them as throwaways.

Sometimes, it splinters them in the middle, too!

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

On Oct 17, 7:16 pm, k wrote:
I want to make some house construction projects with my students. We
need to make some 2x4's for the models but they will actually be 1/8"
x 1/4". Does anyone have a safe way to make these?. I'm nervous of
cutting a finger on the table saw.

It is easy to cut thin, narrow pieces like these with the right table
saw accessory. I use a grip-tite magnetic featherboard with the
roller guide. A sandpaper roller pulls the wood to the fence in front
of the blade, and plastic springs hold the wood down before and after
the blade. You push the first board thru the blade and under the
springs with the next board. You have to use a zero clearance
throatplate. The setup works on my aluminum saw. Had to clamp their
steel plate to my fence to hold the magnets.There's a video on you
tube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzTo_lqcxfM
Be sure you use clear wood.