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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Anyone seen/used one of the Volex split load CU's listed by screwfix.
I'm looking to get the 12 way one, but the split is ambiguous. Text says split 6+6, photo looks to be split 8+4. The later would be better for me, with more fixed appliance and lighting circuits than socket circuits. Or is it flexible, i.e. cut your own live busbar to suit? Other suitable CU recommendations welcome. Ta. -- Steven Briggs |
#2
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Steven Briggs wrote:
Anyone seen/used one of the Volex split load CU's listed by screwfix. I'm looking to get the 12 way one, but the split is ambiguous. Text says split 6+6, photo looks to be split 8+4. The later would be better for me, with more fixed appliance and lighting circuits than socket circuits. Or is it flexible, i.e. cut your own live busbar to suit? Other suitable CU recommendations welcome. Ta. The Clipsal Screwfix one in clearance is 10way cut to suit 5/5, 6/4, 7/3 etc. -- Toby. 'One day son, all this will be finished' |
#3
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In message , Toby
writes Steven Briggs wrote: Anyone seen/used one of the Volex split load CU's listed by screwfix. I'm looking to get the 12 way one, but the split is ambiguous. Text says split 6+6, photo looks to be split 8+4. The later would be better for me, with more fixed appliance and lighting circuits than socket circuits. Or is it flexible, i.e. cut your own live busbar to suit? Other suitable CU recommendations welcome. Ta. The Clipsal Screwfix one in clearance is 10way cut to suit 5/5, 6/4, 7/3 etc. Need 11 circuits, 4 on the RCD. This one is a bargain, C/W 10 MCB's for 59.99 http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...18334&id=82204 This _looks_ to be the same, without MCB's, for, er, 59.99. http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...18334&id=82031 -- Steven Briggs |
#4
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On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 17:09:36 +0000, Steven Briggs
wrote: Anyone seen/used one of the Volex split load CU's listed by screwfix. I'm looking to get the 12 way one, but the split is ambiguous. Text says split 6+6, photo looks to be split 8+4. The later would be better for me, with more fixed appliance and lighting circuits than socket circuits. Or is it flexible, i.e. cut your own live busbar to suit? Other suitable CU recommendations welcome. Ta. MK Sentry Ones come with a bus bar that you can cut. ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#5
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"Steven Briggs" wrote in message
... [snip] The Clipsal Screwfix one in clearance is 10way cut to suit 5/5, 6/4, 7/3 etc. Need 11 circuits, 4 on the RCD. This one is a bargain, C/W 10 MCB's for 59.99 http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...18334&id=82204 It is a bargain - buy one. Rob |
#6
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In message ,
"Kalico" wrote: "Steven Briggs" wrote in message ... [snip] The Clipsal Screwfix one in clearance is 10way cut to suit 5/5, 6/4, 7/3 etc. Need 11 circuits, 4 on the RCD. This one is a bargain, C/W 10 MCB's for 59.99 http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...18334&id=82204 It is a bargain - buy one. Rob Definitely. Used a previous version of this Volex at my last house, and am currently rewiring with this very model. Comes with 40A, 4x32A, 2x16A, 3x6A MCBs, 100A main switch, 63A/30mA RCD. I need a 20A radial and only 2x6A so bought an extra MCB at the same time. I dare say I'll use the extra 6A sometime. Busbar is supplied uncut and unfitted - just remember to make *two* cuts in order to leave a gap between the RCD and non-RCD sides, unless you are sure you only need 11 ways when you really should cut off the unused bit of busbar. Also supplied with a "This installation or part of it..." sticker and several printed and blank circuit ident labels. The split load kit is supplied fitted, and it seems to be well enough designed. It's the N feed from the main switch I'm having trouble with - it is solid enamelled copper and snakes across the very place the incomers have to be :-/ Don't forget to check factory fitted components - the earthing bar was loose in mine. There's a reasonable, though not overly generous, amount of wiring space for circuit wires above the MCBs, but the knock-outs in the top face (where most of my wires will be entering) are decidedly stingy. I've had to "enlarge" them quite considerably. There are rather more knockouts in the bottom face, and if you are lucky enough to be wiring from behind, there are some quite generous holes there. Only two things I don't understand: 1: Why the unpopulated version is exactly the same price as the one with 10x MCBs. 2: Why most split boards these days come with main switch at far left, and RCD at far right. The previous version of this board I mentioned had the RCD in the middle, and flexible split-load cables, so that you could "read" the board left to right. HTH Hwyl! M. -- Martin Angove: http://www.tridwr.demon.co.uk/ Don't fight technology, live with it: http://www.livtech.co.uk/ .... SEGA and Nintendo are combining, they call it Windows NT |
#7
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In message , Martin Angove
writes Definitely. Used a previous version of this Volex at my last house, and am currently rewiring with this very model. Comes with 40A, 4x32A, 2x16A, 3x6A MCBs, 100A main switch, 63A/30mA RCD. I need a 20A radial and only 2x6A so bought an extra MCB at the same time. I dare say I'll use the extra 6A sometime. Busbar is supplied uncut and unfitted - just remember to make *two* cuts in order to leave a gap between the RCD and non-RCD sides, unless you are sure you only need 11 ways when you really should cut off the unused bit of busbar. Also supplied with a "This installation or part of it..." sticker and several printed and blank circuit ident labels. The split load kit is supplied fitted, and it seems to be well enough designed. It's the N feed from the main switch I'm having trouble with - it is solid enamelled copper and snakes across the very place the incomers have to be :-/ Don't forget to check factory fitted components - the earthing bar was loose in mine. There's a reasonable, though not overly generous, amount of wiring space for circuit wires above the MCBs, but the knock-outs in the top face (where most of my wires will be entering) are decidedly stingy. I've had to "enlarge" them quite considerably. There are rather more knockouts in the bottom face, and if you are lucky enough to be wiring from behind, there are some quite generous holes there. Only two things I don't understand: 1: Why the unpopulated version is exactly the same price as the one with 10x MCBs. 2: Why most split boards these days come with main switch at far left, and RCD at far right. The previous version of this board I mentioned had the RCD in the middle, and flexible split-load cables, so that you could "read" the board left to right. HTH Hwyl! M. Thanks Martin. Just what I needed to know. Most of my wiring will be from below, so should work out OK. As to the price, well must be to done with that extra space dimension associated with mail-order! -- Steven Briggs |
#8
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![]() 2: Why most split boards these days come with main switch at far left, and RCD at far right. The previous version of this board I mentioned had the RCD in the middle, and flexible split-load cables, so that you could "read" the board left to right. Wylex NH series CU come with main incomer on right. Dave -- And you were born knowing all about ms windows....?? |
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