In article ,
Bill Wright writes:
As per header. What's the best stuff to use?

Sleeve bearings, I presume?

ISTR Geoff covering this a long time ago WRT boiler fans, and
that it needs a special oil which is soaked into the bearings
under special conditions (heat, vacuum, or something like that).
You might be able to find this post on Google.

However, I suspect that if the bearings have got to the point
of you noticing they need attention, they are probably only
temporarily repairable, in which case it probably doesn't
much matter what you use, but you'll want to clean off any
gunked up oil/dirt first.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 02/01/13 14:59, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Bill Wright writes:
As per header. What's the best stuff to use?

Sleeve bearings, I presume?

ISTR Geoff covering this a long time ago WRT boiler fans, and
that it needs a special oil which is soaked into the bearings
under special conditions (heat, vacuum, or something like that).
You might be able to find this post on Google.

However, I suspect that if the bearings have got to the point
of you noticing they need attention, they are probably only
temporarily repairable, in which case it probably doesn't
much matter what you use, but you'll want to clean off any
gunked up oil/dirt first.

Experience in model aircraft electric motors equipped with plain
bronze/steel bearings suggests that light machine oil (3 in one) will
cure squeals, but if the bearing has run dry to the point of chattering
and destroyed the bronze, or its its a ball race that has seized,
bearing replacement or a new motor is the only solution.

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

Bill

On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.


ovens are really not that hot.

up to 200C at most.

That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.

And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
a lot cooler than that.



Bill


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.


ovens are really not that hot.

up to 200C at most.

Some go higher.... but on a cleaning cycle,

My parents have just got a new built in oven, it has a feature that when
activated, locks the door and takes the temp upto 600 degrees C, burning off
all grease and crap,

They recently tried it, and said it works brilliantly, just a little bit of
ash on the bottom to sweep out afterwards.

Tho i imagine the fan used on that oven is either well out of the heat, or
uses an oil suitable for the high temps.

In article ,
"Gazz" writes:

Some go higher.... but on a cleaning cycle,

My parents have just got a new built in oven, it has a feature that when
activated, locks the door and takes the temp upto 600 degrees C, burning off
all grease and crap,

They recently tried it, and said it works brilliantly, just a little bit of
ash on the bottom to sweep out afterwards.

There must be several other DIY uses for that... ;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Jan 2, 3:55*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

ovens are really not that hot.

up to 200C at most.

That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.

And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
a lot cooler than that.

The shaft on quality ovens fan motors is fitted with a thermal break
device to stop heat transferring along the shaft

I think it tends to evaporate, not enough of it to actually do much, but I'd
have thought it should be non toxic at least.

I don't fancy Lamb with 3in1 sauce.

Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Bill Wright" wrote in message
...
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

Bill

On Wed, 2 Jan 2013 17:14:09 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

In article ,
"Gazz" writes:

Some go higher.... but on a cleaning cycle,

My parents have just got a new built in oven, it has a feature that when
activated, locks the door and takes the temp upto 600 degrees C, burning off
all grease and crap,

They recently tried it, and said it works brilliantly, just a little bit of
ash on the bottom to sweep out afterwards.

There must be several other DIY uses for that... ;-)

Count me out. I've opted for burial.

--
Graham.
%Profound_observation%

On Wednesday, January 2, 2013 4:23:55 PM UTC, Gazz wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message

...

On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:



In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.



I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.





ovens are really not that hot.



up to 200C at most.

A "hot" oven is generally 250C. Both my ovens (built-in and combi) have max at 250C, but the built-in one also has a 275C setting for use with the catalytic cleaning mode.
Simon.

On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 15:17:22 +0000, Bill Wright
wrote:

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

Best use whale oil, then.

On 02/01/2013 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

I've found it necessary to re-oil the fan motor in our oven every year
or so for a good many years. No conflagration yet (but some odd smells
immediately after re-oiling). I don't think the fan gets as hot as the
interior of the oven.

--
Clive Page

In message , Andrew Gabriel
writes
In article ,
Bill Wright writes:
As per header. What's the best stuff to use?

Sleeve bearings, I presume?

ISTR Geoff covering this a long time ago WRT boiler fans, and
that it needs a special oil which is soaked into the bearings
under special conditions (heat, vacuum, or something like that).
You might be able to find this post on Google.

However, I suspect that if the bearings have got to the point
of you noticing they need attention, they are probably only
temporarily repairable, in which case it probably doesn't
much matter what you use, but you'll want to clean off any
gunked up oil/dirt first.

If the shaft is 6mm, we can generally repair them


--
geoff

In message , Bill Wright
writes
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.


In the case of sintered bearings, its absorbed into the phosphor bronze,
its not pooling in the cooker

Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
temp. fix
--
geoff

In message
,
harry writes
On Jan 2, 3:55*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

ovens are really not that hot.

up to 200C at most.

That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.

And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
a lot cooler than that.

The shaft on quality ovens fan motors is fitted with a thermal break
device to stop heat transferring along the shaft

Really ?

and just when you were doing so well ...


--
geoff

In message , Grimly
Curmudgeon writes
On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 15:17:22 +0000, Bill Wright
wrote:

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

Best use whale oil, then.

What,. After the initial application of snake oil in the advertising
department?

--
geoff

On Wed, 2 Jan 2013 09:14:33 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:

On Jan 2, 3:55*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

ovens are really not that hot.

up to 200C at most.

That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.

And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
a lot cooler than that.

The shaft on quality ovens fan motors

High quality?
Low quality?
E quality?


ITWSBT.

--
Frank Erskine

On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 15:55:25 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.


ovens are really not that hot.

up to 200C at most.

That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.

And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
a lot cooler than that.

Don't the fans merely circulate the air? So the temperature will be
much the same whether sucking or blowing...

In fact, don't they have two fans - one to circulate the hot air and
another to cool the outer casing, which is of course the one that runs
on after you've turned the oven off?

I think I'd be considering graphite or PTFE for lubrication at these
sorts of temperature.

--
Frank Erskine

On Jan 3, 10:50*pm, geoff wrote:
In message
,
harry writes









On Jan 2, 3:55*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

ovens are really not that hot.

up to 200C at most.

That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.

And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
a lot cooler than that.

The shaft on quality ovens fan motors is fitted with a thermal break
device to stop heat transferring along the shaft

Really ?

and just when you were doing so well ...

--
geoff

Yes really. I used to repair them years ago.

On Jan 4, 12:10*am, Frank Erskine
wrote:
On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 15:55:25 +0000, The Natural Philosopher









wrote:
On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

ovens are really not that hot.

up to 200C at most.

That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.

And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
a lot cooler than that.

Don't the fans merely circulate the air? So the temperature will be
much the same whether sucking or blowing...

In fact, don't they have two fans - one to circulate the hot air and
another to cool the outer casing, which is of course the one that runs
on after you've turned the oven off?

I think I'd be considering graphite or PTFE for lubrication at these
sorts of temperature.

--
Frank Erskine

The motor is not subjected to oven temperatures and neither are the
bearings, they wouldn't last two minutes and as I said, the motor
shafts on the better fan ovens have a thermal break to keep motor and
bearings cooler.

On 03/01/13 22:48, geoff wrote:
In message , Bill Wright
writes
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.


In the case of sintered bearings, its absorbed into the phosphor bronze,
its not pooling in the cooker

Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
temp. fix
usual error.

Ball races of a light variety will seize in grease.

You need a very light anit-corrosion protection or nothing muvjh at all
fora ball race.

Only stuff under big lateral forces needs any 'lubrication'

Anyway the result is the same: once ball races go, there is no way back
usually.,



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On Jan 4, 1:57*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 03/01/13 22:48, geoff wrote: In message , Bill Wright
writes
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

In the case of sintered bearings, its absorbed into the phosphor bronze,
its not pooling in the cooker

Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
temp. fix

usual error.

Ball races of a light variety will seize in grease.

You need a very light anit-corrosion protection or nothing muvjh at all
fora ball race.

Only stuff under big lateral forces needs any 'lubrication'

Anyway the result is the same: once ball races go, there is no way back
usually.,

--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc’-ra-cy) – a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

Well if you buy a new ball race, it will be packed in grease.

Ball races should not be subject to lateral forces unless they are
taper ball races.

Yes look at the problems on the international space station with the race
ring of one of the solar array bearings and they only turn slowly, once
debris is allowed in there it just acts to grind away the surfaces.

Brian

--
From the Bed of Brian Gaff.
The email is valid as
Blind user.
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
On 03/01/13 22:48, geoff wrote:
In message , Bill Wright
writes
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.


In the case of sintered bearings, its absorbed into the phosphor bronze,
its not pooling in the cooker

Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
temp. fix
usual error.

Ball races of a light variety will seize in grease.

You need a very light anit-corrosion protection or nothing muvjh at all
fora ball race.

Only stuff under big lateral forces needs any 'lubrication'

Anyway the result is the same: once ball races go, there is no way back
usually.,



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc'-ra-cy) - a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members
of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded
with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On 04/01/13 17:01, harry wrote:
On Jan 4, 1:57 pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 03/01/13 22:48, geoff wrote: In message , Bill Wright
writes
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

In the case of sintered bearings, its absorbed into the phosphor bronze,
its not pooling in the cooker

Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
temp. fix

usual error.

Ball races of a light variety will seize in grease.

You need a very light anit-corrosion protection or nothing muvjh at all
fora ball race.

Only stuff under big lateral forces needs any 'lubrication'

Anyway the result is the same: once ball races go, there is no way back
usually.,

--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

Well if you buy a new ball race, it will be packed in grease.

Ball races should not be subject to lateral forces unless they are
taper ball races.

that entirely depends on the ball race.


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

In message
,
harry writes
On Jan 3, 10:50*pm, geoff wrote:
In message
,
harry writes









On Jan 2, 3:55*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

ovens are really not that hot.

up to 200C at most.

That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.

And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
a lot cooler than that.

The shaft on quality ovens fan motors is fitted with a thermal break
device to stop heat transferring along the shaft

Really ?

and just when you were doing so well ...

--
geoff

Yes really. I used to repair them years ago.

You used to do all sorts of things years ago ...

Unfortunately, they world has moved on and left you behind.

I repair them now


--
geoff

In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
On 03/01/13 22:48, geoff wrote:
In message , Bill Wright
writes
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.


In the case of sintered bearings, its absorbed into the phosphor bronze,
its not pooling in the cooker

Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
temp. fix
usual error.

Ball races of a light variety will seize in grease.

Burt we're not talking about miniature ones as found in e.g. hard
drives, these are predominantly 626ZZ (or as I use VV), I buy a couple
of thousand at a time - they run in grease


You need a very light anit-corrosion protection or nothing muvjh at all
fora ball race.

You're out of your comfort zone there


Only stuff under big lateral forces needs any 'lubrication'

Anyway the result is the same: once ball races go, there is no way back
usually.,


You got it right there

--
geoff

In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
On 04/01/13 17:01, harry wrote:
On Jan 4, 1:57 pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 03/01/13 22:48, geoff wrote: In message
, Bill Wright
writes
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

In the case of sintered bearings, its absorbed into the phosphor bronze,
its not pooling in the cooker

Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
temp. fix

usual error.

Ball races of a light variety will seize in grease.

You need a very light anit-corrosion protection or nothing muvjh at all
fora ball race.

Only stuff under big lateral forces needs any 'lubrication'

Anyway the result is the same: once ball races go, there is no way back
usually.,

--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

Well if you buy a new ball race, it will be packed in grease.

Ball races should not be subject to lateral forces unless they are
taper ball races.

that entirely depends on the ball race.


So, shall we stick to the ones for the function in question then?

--
geoff

On Jan 4, 9:42*pm, geoff wrote:
In message
,
harry writes









On Jan 3, 10:50*pm, geoff wrote:
In message
,
harry writes

On Jan 2, 3:55*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.

I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.

ovens are really not that hot.

up to 200C at most.

That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.

And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
a lot cooler than that.

The shaft on quality ovens fan motors is fitted with a thermal break
device to stop heat transferring along the shaft

Really ?

and just when you were doing so well ...

--
geoff

Yes really. I used to repair them years ago.

You used to do all sorts of things years ago ...

Unfortunately, they world has moved on and left you behind.

* I repair them now

--
geoff

I moved on from that job.
The ones with thermal breaks didn't fail.

In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
Well if you buy a new ball race, it will be packed in grease.

Ball races should not be subject to lateral forces unless they are
taper ball races.

that entirely depends on the ball race.

Try angular contact ones:-)

I think bearings fitted with sideplates during manufacture would be
packed with grease. Taper rollers and bearings intended to be lubricated
by the user might just be oiled.



--
Tim Lamb

In message
,
harry writes
On Jan 4, 9:42*pm, geoff wrote:
In message
,
harry writes

The shaft on quality ovens fan motors is fitted with a thermal break
device to stop heat transferring along the shaft

Really ?

and just when you were doing so well ...

--
geoff

Yes really. I used to repair them years ago.

You used to do all sorts of things years ago ...

Unfortunately, they world has moved on and left you behind.

* I repair them now

--
geoff

I moved on from that job.
The ones with thermal breaks didn't fail.

Nobody would fit one now

As I said - the world has moved on


--
geoff

replying to Gazz, notrub wrote:
Lol @ 600 degrees C - you mean Fahrenheit! About 315 C

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...an-862234-.htm

On 06/05/2016 16:44, notrub wrote:
replying to Gazz, notrub wrote:
Lol @ 600 degrees C - you mean Fahrenheit! About 315 C

Now that might have been funny 3 years ago, but not now?

replying to Gazz, JT wrote:
I think you meant degrees F. 600 degrees C would be over 1100 degrees F, way
too hot for built in oven.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...an-862234-.htm