I've got a couple of disused fireplaces I'm going to bring back into use
with woodburners. I'll need to fit stainless steel flues. Do all flues &
burners have a standard gauge or do I have to worry about matching them
up? I'll probably be going for quite small burners, about 3-4kW at most.
Recommendations welcome.


--
Les

In message , Big Les Wade
writes
I've got a couple of disused fireplaces I'm going to bring back into
use with woodburners. I'll need to fit stainless steel flues. Do all
flues & burners have a standard gauge or do I have to worry about
matching them up? I'll probably be going for quite small burners, about
3-4kW at most. Recommendations welcome.

The manufacturers site will tell you about flue sizing. Just as
important is insulation.

To meet the regulations you either need to involve building control or
use a Hetas registered installer.



--
Tim Lamb

On Fri, 9 Nov 2012 08:29:48 +0000, Big Les Wade wrote:

I've got a couple of disused fireplaces I'm going to bring back into
use
with woodburners. I'll need to fit stainless steel flues. Do all flues
&
burners have a standard gauge or do I have to worry about matching them
up? I'll probably be going for quite small burners, about 3-4kW at
most.
Recommendations welcome.


--
Les

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Fri, 9 Nov 2012 08:29:48 +0000, Big Les Wade wrote:

Do all flues & burners have a standard gauge or do I have to worry
about matching them up?

There are standard sizes for flue (5, 6 or 7" are the most common) and
yes it does have to match the stove you fit.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Nov 9, 9:15*am, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Big Les Wade
writes

I've got a couple of disused fireplaces I'm going to bring back into
use with woodburners. I'll need to fit stainless steel flues. Do all
flues & burners have a standard gauge or do I have to worry about
matching them up? I'll probably be going for quite small burners, about
3-4kW at most. Recommendations welcome.

The manufacturers site will tell you about flue sizing. Just as
important is insulation.

To meet the regulations you either need to involve building control or
use a Hetas registered installer.

to do a "legal" job you have to either pay a HETAS bod to do it for
you OR DIY & meet the regs & involve Bldg Ctrl..

Jim K

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.co.uk...
On Fri, 9 Nov 2012 08:29:48 +0000, Big Les Wade wrote:

Do all flues & burners have a standard gauge or do I have to worry
about matching them up?

There are standard sizes for flue (5, 6 or 7" are the most common) and
yes it does have to match the stove you fit.

--
Cheers
Dave.




Can you not fit the largest flue and them put a spigot plate at the bottom
to match your stove?

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 18:18:44 -0000, Lawrence wrote:

Can you not fit the largest flue and them put a spigot plate at the
bottom to match your stove?

You can as in physically but I don't think the BCO would like it as it is
probably against the installation instructions of the stove.

A large flue will slow down the flow of gases, the longer they take the
cooler they get and more chance of tar/soot deposition in the flue.

It will also affect the draw. I can't decide if it won't draw enough,
large column of air that will be hard to get moving, or draw too much,
wind over chimeny pot sucking a 7" column of air due to the venturi
effect being rather more than a 5" flued stove would want. Or a
combination of both depending on conditions...

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 23:08:31 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 18:18:44 -0000, Lawrence wrote:

Can you not fit the largest flue and them put a spigot plate at the
bottom to match your stove?

You can as in physically but I don't think the BCO would like it as it is
probably against the installation instructions of the stove.

I don't think he can complain as long as it is greater than 150mm id

A large flue will slow down the flow of gases, the longer they take the
cooler they get and more chance of tar/soot deposition in the flue.

Yes but to some extent this will depend on heat loss to the sides, if
the flue is insulated or the brickwork has reached a constant
temperature then there may not be a lot of difference. I imagine many
brick chimney are 9" and would still pass.

It will also affect the draw. I can't decide if it won't draw enough,

The draw is dependent on the buoyancy of the air in the column, if
it's cooler then less draw.

I still cannot figure why a sophisticated bit of kit like a modern gas
boiler, which is fueled by a gas that is readily combustible, has a
fan, yet a wood fire which has a low cv fuel which is difficult to
cleanly burn and would benefit from the turbulence and air control is
resisted.

AJH

In message ,
writes

I still cannot figure why a sophisticated bit of kit like a modern gas
boiler, which is fueled by a gas that is readily combustible, has a
fan, yet a wood fire which has a low cv fuel which is difficult to
cleanly burn and would benefit from the turbulence and air control is
resisted.

Maybe because the gas can be shut off whereas a charged log grate can't?

--
Tim Lamb

On Nov 11, 12:20*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 23:08:31 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice"

wrote:
On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 18:18:44 -0000, Lawrence wrote:

Can you not fit the largest flue and them put a spigot plate at the
bottom to match your stove?

You can as in physically but I don't think the BCO would like it as it is
probably against the installation instructions of the stove.

I don't think he can complain as long as it is greater than 150mm id



A large flue will slow down the flow of gases, the longer they take the
cooler they get and more chance of tar/soot deposition in the flue.

Yes but to some extent this will depend on heat loss to the sides, if
the flue is insulated or the brickwork has reached a constant
temperature then there may not be a lot of difference. I imagine many
brick chimney are 9" and would still pass.



It will also affect the draw. I can't decide if it won't draw enough,

The draw is dependent on the buoyancy of the air in the column, if
it's cooler then less draw.

I still cannot figure why a sophisticated bit of kit like a modern gas
boiler, which is fueled by a gas that is readily combustible, has a
fan, yet a wood fire which has a low cv fuel which is difficult to
cleanly burn and would benefit from the turbulence and air control is
resisted.

AJH

The fan in most gas gas boilers is working on a mixture of gas and
air.
The effect of this is to thoroughly mix them so promoting efficiency.

Obviously not an option with solid fuel.
With solid fuels you have two options, either suck or blow the
combustion air/products

The problem with blow (forced draught)(air) is that if the chimney
blocks,combustion gases are forced into the room. This means the
boiler has to be in a non-occupied space. Eg a wood pellet boiler

The problem with suck (induced draught) (combustion gases) is that the
fan becomes unbalanced due to tar buildup. So not suitable for wood
burning stoves. But often used with coal. gas and oil.

Large industrial boilers often have both suck and blow (balanced
draught.)

On Sun, 11 Nov 2012 12:32:44 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:

In message ,
writes

I still cannot figure why a sophisticated bit of kit like a modern gas
boiler, which is fueled by a gas that is readily combustible, has a
fan, yet a wood fire which has a low cv fuel which is difficult to
cleanly burn and would benefit from the turbulence and air control is
resisted.

Maybe because the gas can be shut off whereas a charged log grate can't?

There can be ways around that, generally natural draught can provide
for a safe burn out as long as primary air is limited in case of fan
failure. With a single id fan , as on many pellet stoves, this becomes
self limiting.

AJH

On Sun, 11 Nov 2012 08:31:38 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:


The fan in most gas gas boilers is working on a mixture of gas and
air.

I don't follow that, I though it was just an induced draught fan after
the heat exchanger?
If so then it would be no different in effect on the log burner,
primary air causes a combustible gas to be evolved which then burns
out in much more secondary air.

The effect of this is to thoroughly mix them so promoting efficiency.

Which is why I mentioned a fan would aid wood combustion, it can
provide more turbulence than natural draught.

All the larger wood fired systems I worked on had id fans and many had
primary air fans too. The better ones had wide band lambda sensors to
control secondary air and I have never had problems with fouling of id
fan blades. I did have a big problem from a chimney being terminated
with a conventional gas cowl which sooted up.

AJH

In message ,
writes
On Sun, 11 Nov 2012 08:31:38 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:


The fan in most gas gas boilers is working on a mixture of gas and
air.

I don't follow that, I though it was just an induced draught fan after
the heat exchanger?

As usual Harry's confusing things

In most conventional boilers, the fan works on the air or the exhaust
gasses, in modern condensing boilers, quite often, the fan is blowing
premixed air/gas into the combustion chamber


--
geoff

In message ,
writes
.

It will also affect the draw. I can't decide if it won't draw enough,

The draw is dependent on the buoyancy of the air in the column, if
it's cooler then less draw.

I still cannot figure why a sophisticated bit of kit like a modern gas
boiler, which is fueled by a gas that is readily combustible, has a
fan, yet a wood fire which has a low cv fuel which is difficult to
cleanly burn and would benefit from the turbulence and air control is
resisted.


It is because most boilers are room sealed, they are not drawing air in
from the room, it has to be sucked in from the outside via the outer
tube in the flue and the products of combustion pushed out down the
inner tube of the flue


--
geoff

On Nov 11, 5:02*pm, wrote:
On Sun, 11 Nov 2012 08:31:38 -0800 (PST), harry

wrote:

The fan in most gas gas boilers is working on a mixture of gas and
air.

I don't follow that, I though it was just an induced draught fan after
the heat exchanger?
*If so then it would be no different in effect on the log burner,
primary air causes a combustible gas to be evolved which then burns
out in much more secondary air.

The effect of this is to thoroughly mix them so promoting efficiency.

Which is why I mentioned a fan would aid wood combustion, it can
provide more turbulence than natural draught.

All the larger wood fired systems I worked on had id fans and many had
primary air fans too. The better ones had wide band lambda sensors to
control secondary air and I have never had problems with fouling of id
fan blades. I did have a big problem from a chimney being terminated
with a conventional gas cowl which sooted up.

AJH
Re. gas boilers.
In days of yore that was true but things have moved on.
The first thing you have to do for efficiency is to thoroughly mix the
fuel and air, premixing it does this better so lowering the unburnt
fuel in the combustion gases.

In a solid fuel system the fan just overcomes the resistance to the
passage of air/gases meaning the airways/chimney can be smaller/
longer. Also the boiler can be more compact for any given heat
output.
Also the combustion process can be boosted/cut back more quickly, ie
there is better control.
It enables the "pyrolising" process you get in moost wood pellet
boilers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrolysis

On Nov 11, 5:14*pm, geoff wrote:
In message ,
writes

On Sun, 11 Nov 2012 08:31:38 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:

The fan in most gas gas boilers is working on a mixture of gas and
air.

I don't follow that, I though it was just an induced draught fan after
the heat exchanger?

As usual Harry's confusing things

In most conventional boilers, the fan works on the air or the exhaust
gasses, in modern condensing boilers, quite often, the fan is blowing
premixed air/gas into the combustion chamber

--
geoff

I think that's what I said. Whether it's condensing or not is neither
here nor there.

Dave Liquorice posted
On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 18:18:44 -0000, Lawrence wrote:

Can you not fit the largest flue and them put a spigot plate at the
bottom to match your stove?

You can as in physically but I don't think the BCO would like it as it is
probably against the installation instructions of the stove.

Also the existing chimney (into which the flue pipe will be inserted) is
quite narrow. The builder thinks it will only take a 5in pipe.

A large flue will slow down the flow of gases, the longer they take the
cooler they get and more chance of tar/soot deposition in the flue.

It will also affect the draw. I can't decide if it won't draw enough,
large column of air that will be hard to get moving, or draw too much,
wind over chimeny pot sucking a 7" column of air due to the venturi
effect being rather more than a 5" flued stove would want. Or a
combination of both depending on conditions...


--
Les

On Mon, 12 Nov 2012 14:51:20 +0000, Big Les Wade
wrote:

Also the existing chimney (into which the flue pipe will be inserted) is
quite narrow. The builder thinks it will only take a 5in pipe.

Then it will not comply with part J unless burning smokeless fuel,
even the exempt devices under the clean air act only allow for coal
and not wood.

There appears to be no exception when burning wood pellets even though
smaller than 150mm and balanced flues are allowed in other countries.

AJH

On Sun, 11 Nov 2012 17:13:54 +0000, geoff wrote:

I still cannot figure why a sophisticated bit of kit like a modern gas
boiler, which is fueled by a gas that is readily combustible, has a
fan, yet a wood fire which has a low cv fuel which is difficult to
cleanly burn and would benefit from the turbulence and air control is
resisted.


It is because most boilers are room sealed, they are not drawing air in
from the room, it has to be sucked in from the outside via the outer
tube in the flue and the products of combustion pushed out down the
inner tube of the flue

That explains why a gas boiler has a fan.

I therefore imagine that because a woodburner has to have a chimney
and that creates its own draught fans aren't used other than in pellet
stoves.

My experiments with small burners is they do benefit from fans

AJH

On Sun, 11 Nov 2012 17:10:43 +0000, geoff wrote:

In most conventional boilers, the fan works on the air or the exhaust
gasses, in modern condensing boilers, quite often, the fan is blowing
premixed air/gas into the combustion chamber


Actually that's much what Harry said.

I hadn't realised blown premixed boilers were in use, I did see that
modern pellet burners had moved from being an id fan drawing air into
a burn pot to a fan firing into a blast tube.

AJH

On Nov 12, 2:51*pm, Big Les Wade wrote:
Dave Liquorice posted

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 18:18:44 -0000, Lawrence wrote:

Can you not fit the largest flue and them put a spigot plate at the
bottom to match your stove?

You can as in physically but I don't think the BCO would like it as it is
probably against the installation instructions of the stove.

Also the existing chimney (into which the flue pipe will be inserted) is
quite narrow. The builder thinks it will only take a 5in pipe.

A large flue will slow down the flow of gases, the longer they take the
cooler they get and more chance of tar/soot deposition in the flue.

It will also affect the draw. I can't decide if it won't draw enough,
large column of air that will be hard to get moving, or draw too much,
wind over chimeny pot sucking a 7" column of air due to the venturi
effect being rather more than a 5" flued stove would want. Or a
combination of both depending on conditions...

--
Les

That is unusually small. 8" is normal.

On Nov 12, 3:59*pm, wrote:
On Sun, 11 Nov 2012 17:13:54 +0000, geoff wrote:
I still cannot figure why a sophisticated bit of kit like a modern gas
boiler, which is fueled by a gas that is readily combustible, has a
fan, yet a wood fire which has a low cv fuel which is difficult to
cleanly burn and would benefit from the turbulence and air control is
resisted.

It is because most boilers are room sealed, they are not drawing air in
from the room, it has to be sucked in from the outside via the outer
tube in the flue and the products of combustion pushed out down the
inner tube of the flue

That explains why a gas boiler has a fan.

I therefore imagine that because a woodburner has to have a chimney
and that creates its own draught fans aren't used other than in pellet
stoves.

My experiments with small burners is they do benefit from fans

AJH

They need a fan because the flue gases have no buoyancy, they are so
cool, especially in condensing boilers.

posted
On Mon, 12 Nov 2012 14:51:20 +0000, Big Les Wade
wrote:

Also the existing chimney (into which the flue pipe will be inserted) is
quite narrow. The builder thinks it will only take a 5in pipe.

Then it will not comply with part J unless burning smokeless fuel,
even the exempt devices under the clean air act only allow for coal
and not wood.


The October 2010 edition of part J (on p.30, Table 2 "Size of flues in
chimneys") says a 125 mm flue is acceptable for closed appliances which
meet the requirements of the Clean Air Act when burning bituminous coal
or wood. I assume this means DEFRA approved stoves?

--
Les

On Mon, 12 Nov 2012 17:56:29 +0000, Big Les Wade
wrote:

posted
On Mon, 12 Nov 2012 14:51:20 +0000, Big Les Wade
wrote:

Also the existing chimney (into which the flue pipe will be inserted) is
quite narrow. The builder thinks it will only take a 5in pipe.

Then it will not comply with part J unless burning smokeless fuel,
even the exempt devices under the clean air act only allow for coal
and not wood.


The October 2010 edition of part J (on p.30, Table 2 "Size of flues in
chimneys") says a 125 mm flue is acceptable for closed appliances which
meet the requirements of the Clean Air Act when burning bituminous coal
or wood. I assume this means DEFRA approved stoves?

That's good, my 2002 version only allows for bitumous coal. I've
downloaded the 2010 edition and you are right, a 125mm flue is allowed
for a woodstove up to 20kW if it meets the requirements of the clean
air act.

AJH

On 09/11/2012 13:22, Jim K wrote:

to do a "legal" job you have to either pay a HETAS bod to do it for
you OR DIY & meet the regs & involve Bldg Ctrl..

Out of interest, what "law" would be broken if it was a DIY job without
building regs?

Just curious.

Pete
--
http://www.GymRatZ.co.uk - Fitness+Gym Equipment.
http://www.bodysolid-gym-equipment.co.uk
http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk
http://www.water-rower.co.uk

www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:

On 09/11/2012 13:22, Jim K wrote:

to do a "legal" job you have to either pay a HETAS bod to do it for
you OR DIY & meet the regs & involve Bldg Ctrl..

Out of interest, what "law" would be broken if it was a DIY job without
building regs?

Just curious.

Pete

"Failing to notify" - a non idictable offence carrying a fine and/or upto 6
months in prison.

ICBA to look up the specific act - but I did once and it exists.

However, being non idictable means thye only have 2 years IIRC to bust you -
and it almost never happens anyway.
--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"A fanatic is one who can't change his mind and won't change the subject."

Tim Watts wrote:

www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:

On 09/11/2012 13:22, Jim K wrote:

to do a "legal" job you have to either pay a HETAS bod to do it for
you OR DIY & meet the regs & involve Bldg Ctrl..

Out of interest, what "law" would be broken if it was a DIY job without
building regs?

Just curious.

Pete

"Failing to notify" - a non idictable offence carrying a fine and/or upto
^^ indictable
6 months in prison.

ICBA to look up the specific act - but I did once and it exists.

However, being non idictable means thye only have 2 years IIRC to bust you
- and it almost never happens anyway.
--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"History will be kind to me for I intend to write it."

In message , Tim Watts
writes
www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:

On 09/11/2012 13:22, Jim K wrote:

to do a "legal" job you have to either pay a HETAS bod to do it for
you OR DIY & meet the regs & involve Bldg Ctrl..

Out of interest, what "law" would be broken if it was a DIY job without
building regs?

Just curious.

Pete

"Failing to notify" - a non idictable offence carrying a fine and/or upto 6
months in prison.

ICBA to look up the specific act - but I did once and it exists.

However, being non idictable means thye only have 2 years IIRC to bust you -
and it almost never happens anyway.

Might get caught by the *Solicitors questions* on a house sale with no
relevant paperwork.

--
Tim Lamb

On 12/11/2012 20:20, Tim Watts wrote:

"Failing to notify" - a non idictable offence carrying a fine and/or upto 6
months in prison.

ICBA to look up the specific act - but I did once and it exists.

My question was which "law" which an act is not.

However, being non idictable means thye only have 2 years IIRC to bust you -
and it almost never happens anyway.

Thanks all the same though Tim.

--
http://www.GymRatZ.co.uk - Commercial Gym Equipment.
http://www.water-rower.co.uk WaterRowers etc

www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:

On 12/11/2012 20:20, Tim Watts wrote:

"Failing to notify" - a non idictable offence carrying a fine and/or upto
6 months in prison.

ICBA to look up the specific act - but I did once and it exists.

My question was which "law" which an act is not.

However, being non idictable means thye only have 2 years IIRC to bust
you - and it almost never happens anyway.

Thanks all the same though Tim.


Probably this one:

http://www.communities.gov.uk/public...gulationsbuild

"The Building Act 1984"

If you google for that, you should be able to find the actual contents - and
related or modifying later acts.

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"History will be kind to me for I intend to write it."

In message
,
harry writes
On Nov 11, 5:14*pm, geoff wrote:
In message ,
writes

On Sun, 11 Nov 2012 08:31:38 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:

The fan in most gas gas boilers is working on a mixture of gas and
air.

I don't follow that, I though it was just an induced draught fan after
the heat exchanger?

As usual Harry's confusing things

In most conventional boilers, the fan works on the air or the exhaust
gasses, in modern condensing boilers, quite often, the fan is blowing
premixed air/gas into the combustion chamber

--
geoff

I think that's what I said. Whether it's condensing or not is neither
here nor there.


No its not what you said

Some fans do premix the gas and air and they are getting increasingly
common, they are still in the minority. Most fans are on the exhaust
side of the boiler, venting the products of combustion, some blow air
into the boiler - (positive pressure, not so good) NOT a mixture of gas
and air. If you don't understand the difference, then STFU.


--
geoff

On Nov 12, 10:17*pm, geoff wrote:
In message
,
harry writes









On Nov 11, 5:14 pm, geoff wrote:
In message ,
writes

On Sun, 11 Nov 2012 08:31:38 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:

The fan in most gas gas boilers is working on a mixture of gas and
air.

I don't follow that, I though it was just an induced draught fan after
the heat exchanger?

As usual Harry's confusing things

In most conventional boilers, the fan works on the air or the exhaust
gasses, in modern condensing boilers, quite often, the fan is blowing
premixed air/gas into the combustion chamber

--
geoff

I think that's what I said. *Whether it's condensing or not is neither
here nor there.

No its not what you said

Some fans do premix the gas and air and they are getting increasingly
common, they are still in the minority. Most fans are on the exhaust
side of the boiler, venting the products of combustion, some blow air
into the boiler - (positive pressure, not so good) *NOT a mixture of gas
and air. If you don't understand the difference, then STFU.

--
geoff

I said.
"quote"

The fan in most gas gas boilers is working on a mixture of gas and
air.
"Unquote"
Anything elsewasnot saidby me.

www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
On 12/11/2012 20:20, Tim Watts wrote:
"Failing to notify" - a non idictable offence carrying a fine and/or upto
6 months in prison.

ICBA to look up the specific act - but I did once and it exists.

My question was which "law" which an act is not.
Er? "act" as in "Act of Parliament" - a piece of statute law.
Are you thinking of "Statutory Instruments" - which actually /do/
have the force of law? Or possibly "regulation" - which can have
the force of law if they are made under appropriate Acts or
Statutory Instruments

but if there's a fire
not having the regulation ticked
may mean the insurers refuse to pay up

[g]

On 15/11/12 14:04, Martin Bonner wrote:
www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
On 12/11/2012 20:20, Tim Watts wrote:
"Failing to notify" - a non idictable offence carrying a fine and/or upto
6 months in prison.

ICBA to look up the specific act - but I did once and it exists.

My question was which "law" which an act is not.
Er? "act" as in "Act of Parliament" - a piece of statute law.
Are you thinking of "Statutory Instruments" - which actually /do/
have the force of law? Or possibly "regulation" - which can have
the force of law if they are made under appropriate Acts or
Statutory Instruments

On Nov 26, 1:58 pm, Stephen H wrote:
On 09/11/2012 13:22, Jim K wrote:



On Nov 9, 9:15 am, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Big Les Wade
writes

I've got a couple of disused fireplaces I'm going to bring back into
use with woodburners. I'll need to fit stainless steel flues. Do all
flues & burners have a standard gauge or do I have to worry about
matching them up? I'll probably be going for quite small burners, about
3-4kW at most. Recommendations welcome.

The manufacturers site will tell you about flue sizing. Just as
important is insulation.

To meet the regulations you either need to involve building control or
use a Hetas registered installer.

to do a "legal" job you have to either pay a HETAS bod to do it for
you OR DIY & meet the regs & involve Bldg Ctrl..

Jim K

Doing one or the other is very important if you have buildings insurance...

maybe

If you have a fire, the insurance company can use the lack of
appropriate certification from either HETAS or building control approval
to refuse your claim.

how would they know to ask for certs?

I recently got a wood burner. When I looked into the installation costs
for both routes, there was not a lot of difference in the costs.


I suspect you didn't look hard enough - what did your man charge?

Wood burners are heavy, and need 2 men/women to lift them. So in the end
I paid the extra 10 quid for a HETAS man rather than self install &
council building regs for the sake of not damaging my back.

larger ones can be heavy yers... haven't you got any friends?

Jim K

On Nov 26, 3:36 pm, Huge wrote:
On 2012-11-26, Jim K wrote:

On Nov 26, 1:58 pm, Stephen H wrote:
On 09/11/2012 13:22, Jim K wrote:
Doing one or the other is very important if you have buildings insurance...

maybe

If you have a fire, the insurance company can use the lack of
appropriate certification from either HETAS or building control approval
to refuse your claim.

how would they know to ask for certs?

Because they aren't ****ing stupid. If someone makes a large claim, it's
cost-effective to pay a "loss adjuster" to crawl out from under his rock
and check that it's pukka.

by doing........................?

Jim K

On Nov 26, 4:53*pm, Huge wrote:
On 2012-11-26, Jim K wrote:





On Nov 26, 3:36 pm, Huge wrote:
On 2012-11-26, Jim K wrote:

On Nov 26, 1:58 pm, Stephen H wrote:
On 09/11/2012 13:22, Jim K wrote:
Doing one or the other is very important if you have buildings insurance...

maybe

If you have a fire, the insurance company can use the lack of
appropriate certification from either HETAS or building control approval
to refuse your claim.

how would they know to ask for certs?

Because they aren't ****ing stupid. If someone makes a large claim, it's
cost-effective to pay a "loss adjuster" to crawl out from under his rock
and check that it's pukka.

by doing........................?

Checking with HETAS or the local building control department.

You didn't imagine I was going to say "Ask for the certificate", did you?

not sure yet....


so when HETAS or LABC say "what Cert guv"..................?

Jim K

"Huge" wrote in message ...

On 2012-11-26, Jim K wrote:
On Nov 26, 1:58 pm, Stephen H wrote:
On 09/11/2012 13:22, Jim K wrote:

Doing one or the other is very important if you have buildings
insurance...

maybe

If you have a fire, the insurance company can use the lack of
appropriate certification from either HETAS or building control approval
to refuse your claim.

how would they know to ask for certs?

Because they aren't ****ing stupid. If someone makes a large claim, it's
cost-effective to pay a "loss adjuster" to crawl out from under his rock
and check that it's pukka.


We have an open fire in one room and a wood burner in another and have no
certificates other than those from the chimney sweep saying both have been
swept.

Mike

On Nov 26, 5:26 pm, Huge wrote:
On 2012-11-26, Jim K wrote:



On Nov 26, 4:53 pm, Huge wrote:
On 2012-11-26, Jim K wrote:

On Nov 26, 3:36 pm, Huge wrote:
On 2012-11-26, Jim K wrote:

On Nov 26, 1:58 pm, Stephen H wrote:
On 09/11/2012 13:22, Jim K wrote:
Doing one or the other is very important if you have buildings insurance...

maybe

If you have a fire, the insurance company can use the lack of
appropriate certification from either HETAS or building control approval
to refuse your claim.

how would they know to ask for certs?

Because they aren't ****ing stupid. If someone makes a large claim, it's
cost-effective to pay a "loss adjuster" to crawl out from under his rock
and check that it's pukka.

by doing........................?

Checking with HETAS or the local building control department.

You didn't imagine I was going to say "Ask for the certificate", did you?

not sure yet....

so when HETAS or LABC say "what Cert guv"..................?

The householder is in deep ****.

er because...................?

Jim K

On Nov 26, 5:46 pm, "Muddymike" wrote:
"Huge" wrote in ...

On 2012-11-26, Jim K wrote:
On Nov 26, 1:58 pm, Stephen H wrote:
On 09/11/2012 13:22, Jim K wrote:

Doing one or the other is very important if you have buildings
insurance...

maybe

If you have a fire, the insurance company can use the lack of
appropriate certification from either HETAS or building control approval
to refuse your claim.

how would they know to ask for certs?

Because they aren't ****ing stupid. If someone makes a large claim, it's
cost-effective to pay a "loss adjuster" to crawl out from under his rock
and check that it's pukka.

We have an open fire in one room and a wood burner in another and have no
certificates other than those from the chimney sweep saying both have been
swept.

Mike

oooooh you naughty boy (apparently)

Jim K