SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

They are going on an area which is currently slabbed with those
attractive 70's pink & yellow slabs - which will be removed.

Carpentry no problem - but should raised beds be lined with anything?

Not worried about the timber rotting - it will be pressure treated. More
moisture retention.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 5/22/2012 3:18 PM, The Medway Handyman wrote:
SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

They are going on an area which is currently slabbed with those
attractive 70's pink & yellow slabs - which will be removed.

Carpentry no problem - but should raised beds be lined with anything?

Not worried about the timber rotting - it will be pressure treated. More
moisture retention.

When I built deep raised beds, I put a layer of rock/rubble at the
bottom for drainage, then lined the bottom and sides with landscape
fabric, to stop the soil filtering into the rocks. It's been years now,
and seems to be working well. I used man-made 'ashlar' stones, rather
than timber.

On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:
SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

They are going on an area which is currently slabbed with those
attractive 70's pink & yellow slabs - which will be removed.

Carpentry no problem - but should raised beds be lined with anything?

Not worried about the timber rotting - it will be pressure treated. More
moisture retention.


I would line the inner face with Terram ... keep soil in and let water
permeate.
Wood might not 'need' it, but it will keep it cleaner.

If you are in S.Wales area at any point ... I have plenty.


Or less technical just line it with a DPM poly sheet (thick black
visqueen or similar)

On 22/05/2012 20:26, S Viemeister wrote:
On 5/22/2012 3:18 PM, The Medway Handyman wrote:
SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

They are going on an area which is currently slabbed with those
attractive 70's pink & yellow slabs - which will be removed.

Carpentry no problem - but should raised beds be lined with anything?

Not worried about the timber rotting - it will be pressure treated. More
moisture retention.

When I built deep raised beds, I put a layer of rock/rubble at the
bottom for drainage, then lined the bottom and sides with landscape
fabric, to stop the soil filtering into the rocks. It's been years now,
and seems to be working well. I used man-made 'ashlar' stones, rather
than timber.

I'm assuming there will be hardcore under the slabs, so fabric seems a
good idea - ta.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:

SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

Hmm there must be a craze going round, so does mine!

They are going on an area which is currently slabbed with those
attractive 70's pink & yellow slabs - which will be removed.

Carpentry no problem - but should raised beds be lined with anything?

Not worried about the timber rotting - it will be pressure treated. More
moisture retention.

I have seen some suggestion of plastic liner over the timber to preserve
that, but not for any other reason.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

The Medway Handyman wrote:
SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

I made 'ers out of 3x3 corners hammered in, and split pole pressure
treated. Very 'rustic'.

They are going on an area which is currently slabbed with those
attractive 70's pink & yellow slabs - which will be removed.

Carpentry no problem - but should raised beds be lined with anything?

Not worried about the timber rotting - it will be pressure treated. More
moisture retention.

it still rots. wont last forever.
as much on the outside IME as the inside.




--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:

SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

While on the subject...

Design issues:

What is the optimal depth? Ideal size?

I looked at some ready made kits, and they all seemed quite shallow -
some as little as 6". Many made from very skimpy timber as well.

I was thinking either 9x2" tanalised, or perhaps 2 x 5x2" - the latter
could be joined nicely at the corners with a 2.5"x2" notch out of the
corners allowing a pair of half lap joints.

If one does a section of 3x3" post in each corner, would it be worth
extending this above the top a bit? - either to make something nice to
tie strings to for support etc (thinking vegetable use here)...





--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 22/05/2012 22:03, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:

SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

While on the subject...

Design issues:

What is the optimal depth? Ideal size?

I looked at some ready made kits, and they all seemed quite shallow -
some as little as 6". Many made from very skimpy timber as well.

I was thinking 18" to 24" high.

I was thinking either 9x2" tanalised, or perhaps 2 x 5x2" - the latter
could be joined nicely at the corners with a 2.5"x2" notch out of the
corners allowing a pair of half lap joints.

Nice. That would work for 18" with 2 x 9"x2" or 3 x 8"x2".

If one does a section of 3x3" post in each corner, would it be worth
extending this above the top a bit? - either to make something nice to
tie strings to for support etc (thinking vegetable use here)...

Mine are going to be either side of a pergola, so I'm having posts anyway.

It also occurred to me that they could be - on occasion - topped by
perspex 'lids' in timber frames to act as mini greenhouses (can't think
of the name).




--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 22/05/2012 22:11, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 22/05/2012 22:03, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:

SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

While on the subject...

Design issues:

What is the optimal depth? Ideal size?

I looked at some ready made kits, and they all seemed quite shallow -
some as little as 6". Many made from very skimpy timber as well.

I was thinking 18" to 24" high.

I was thinking either 9x2" tanalised, or perhaps 2 x 5x2" - the latter
could be joined nicely at the corners with a 2.5"x2" notch out of the
corners allowing a pair of half lap joints.

Nice. That would work for 18" with 2 x 9"x2" or 3 x 8"x2".

Need to keep a little in mind how much top soil one will need...
8' x 4' (keep the middle reachable from either side) and 12" deep
would be 32 cubic feet - that's a fair amount of soil.

About 1.2 tonne / m^3 IIRC?

If one does a section of 3x3" post in each corner, would it be worth
extending this above the top a bit? - either to make something nice to
tie strings to for support etc (thinking vegetable use here)...

Mine are going to be either side of a pergola, so I'm having posts anyway.

It also occurred to me that they could be - on occasion - topped by
perspex 'lids' in timber frames to act as mini greenhouses (can't think
of the name).

Closh or something like that...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 22/05/2012 23:52, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 22:11, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 22/05/2012 22:03, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:

SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

While on the subject...

Design issues:

What is the optimal depth? Ideal size?

I looked at some ready made kits, and they all seemed quite shallow -
some as little as 6". Many made from very skimpy timber as well.

I was thinking 18" to 24" high.

I was thinking either 9x2" tanalised, or perhaps 2 x 5x2" - the latter
could be joined nicely at the corners with a 2.5"x2" notch out of the
corners allowing a pair of half lap joints.

Nice. That would work for 18" with 2 x 9"x2" or 3 x 8"x2".

Need to keep a little in mind how much top soil one will need...
8' x 4' (keep the middle reachable from either side) and 12" deep would
be 32 cubic feet - that's a fair amount of soil.

About 1.2 tonne / m^3 IIRC?

Mine will only be accessible from one side - so only 2' front to back.

Metre cubed from Wickes about £120.


If one does a section of 3x3" post in each corner, would it be worth
extending this above the top a bit? - either to make something nice to
tie strings to for support etc (thinking vegetable use here)...

Mine are going to be either side of a pergola, so I'm having posts
anyway.

It also occurred to me that they could be - on occasion - topped by
perspex 'lids' in timber frames to act as mini greenhouses (can't think
of the name).

Closh or something like that...



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 22/05/2012 23:56, Owain wrote:
On May 22, 10:11 pm, The Medway Handyman wrote:
It also occurred to me that they could be - on occasion - topped by
perspex 'lids' in timber frames to act as mini greenhouses (can't think
of the name).

cloche, cold frame, propagator.

Owain


Ah yes. Education is a wonderful thing.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 23/05/2012 00:12, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 22/05/2012 23:52, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 22:11, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 22/05/2012 22:03, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:

SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

While on the subject...

Design issues:

What is the optimal depth? Ideal size?

I looked at some ready made kits, and they all seemed quite shallow -
some as little as 6". Many made from very skimpy timber as well.

I was thinking 18" to 24" high.

I was thinking either 9x2" tanalised, or perhaps 2 x 5x2" - the latter
could be joined nicely at the corners with a 2.5"x2" notch out of the
corners allowing a pair of half lap joints.

Nice. That would work for 18" with 2 x 9"x2" or 3 x 8"x2".

Need to keep a little in mind how much top soil one will need...
8' x 4' (keep the middle reachable from either side) and 12" deep would
be 32 cubic feet - that's a fair amount of soil.

About 1.2 tonne / m^3 IIRC?

Mine will only be accessible from one side - so only 2' front to back.

Metre cubed from Wickes about £120.

'kinell... remind me not to go there... Or did you have a missing
decimal point?


£15/ton delivered locally (£10 if you can collect!)

http://www.sand-man.co.uk/default.asp?textpage=home


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 5/22/2012 6:52 PM, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 22:11, The Medway Handyman wrote:

It also occurred to me that they could be - on occasion - topped by
perspex 'lids' in timber frames to act as mini greenhouses (can't think
of the name).

Closh or something like that...

Cloche.

On 23/05/2012 00:45, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/05/2012 00:12, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 22/05/2012 23:52, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 22:11, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 22/05/2012 22:03, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:

SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

While on the subject...

Design issues:

What is the optimal depth? Ideal size?

I looked at some ready made kits, and they all seemed quite shallow -
some as little as 6". Many made from very skimpy timber as well.

I was thinking 18" to 24" high.

I was thinking either 9x2" tanalised, or perhaps 2 x 5x2" - the latter
could be joined nicely at the corners with a 2.5"x2" notch out of the
corners allowing a pair of half lap joints.

Nice. That would work for 18" with 2 x 9"x2" or 3 x 8"x2".

Need to keep a little in mind how much top soil one will need...
8' x 4' (keep the middle reachable from either side) and 12" deep would
be 32 cubic feet - that's a fair amount of soil.

About 1.2 tonne / m^3 IIRC?

Mine will only be accessible from one side - so only 2' front to back.

Metre cubed from Wickes about £120.

'kinell... remind me not to go there... Or did you have a missing
decimal point?

:-) First place I looked! My local BM doesn't actually have a web site!

Fork andles?




£15/ton delivered locally (£10 if you can collect!)

http://www.sand-man.co.uk/default.asp?textpage=home




--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In message , The Medway Handyman
writes
On 22/05/2012 22:03, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:

SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

While on the subject...

Design issues:

What is the optimal depth? Ideal size?

I looked at some ready made kits, and they all seemed quite shallow -
some as little as 6". Many made from very skimpy timber as well.

I was thinking 18" to 24" high.

Depth, depends in part on what you might want to plant in it. Annual
flowers, or undemanding veg a foot would be ok ) guess. but deeper
would be better. Also aesthetic etc. considerations. If it's on a patio
area being high enough (and with a wide enough top) to sit on can be
nice.

For working the bed, about 2 feet wide if access only from one side, 4
feet if from both sides.




If one does a section of 3x3" post in each corner, would it be worth
extending this above the top a bit? - either to make something nice to
tie strings to for support etc (thinking vegetable use here)...

Mine are going to be either side of a pergola, so I'm having posts anyway.

could be useful. Tho not that many veg needing horizontal strings for
support. But there is also things like being able to cover with netting
to keep birds or butterflies off things etc.

It also occurred to me that they could be - on occasion - topped by
perspex 'lids' in timber frames to act as mini greenhouses (can't think
of the name).

cold frame
--
Chris French

The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 22/05/2012 22:03, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:

SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

While on the subject...

Design issues:

What is the optimal depth? Ideal size?

I looked at some ready made kits, and they all seemed quite shallow -
some as little as 6". Many made from very skimpy timber as well.

I was thinking 18" to 24" high.

I run at 9-12"





--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 22:11, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 22/05/2012 22:03, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:

SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

While on the subject...

Design issues:

What is the optimal depth? Ideal size?

I looked at some ready made kits, and they all seemed quite shallow -
some as little as 6". Many made from very skimpy timber as well.

I was thinking 18" to 24" high.

I was thinking either 9x2" tanalised, or perhaps 2 x 5x2" - the latter
could be joined nicely at the corners with a 2.5"x2" notch out of the
corners allowing a pair of half lap joints.

Nice. That would work for 18" with 2 x 9"x2" or 3 x 8"x2".

Need to keep a little in mind how much top soil one will need...
8' x 4' (keep the middle reachable from either side) and 12" deep would
be 32 cubic feet - that's a fair amount of soil.


doest have to be topsoil. You may (and w did) bulk it out with gravel
to get a bit of drainage. And then standard garden diggings on that, and
topsoil on top.


--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Metre cubed from Wickes about £120.

that is disgraceful

I think I paid about 30.


--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

On 23/05/2012 01:30, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 22/05/2012 22:03, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:

SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

While on the subject...

Design issues:

What is the optimal depth? Ideal size?

I looked at some ready made kits, and they all seemed quite shallow -
some as little as 6". Many made from very skimpy timber as well.

I was thinking 18" to 24" high.

I run at 9-12"

That would still involve bending over or kneeling though?



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Tue, 22 May 2012 19:46:22 -0400, S Viemeister wrote:

It also occurred to me that they could be - on occasion - topped
by
perspex 'lids' in timber frames to act as mini greenhouses (can't

think of the name).

Closh or something like that...

Cloche.

Aye but cloche is normally small transparent/translucent cover over
an individual plant or row of plants. A low framed structure with a
transparent/translucent cover is a cold frame.

--
Cheers
Dave.

The Medway Handyman wrote:

On 23/05/2012 01:30, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

I was thinking 18" to 24" high.

I run at 9-12"

That would still involve bending over or kneeling though?

The height is a matter of choice. If you want them quite high,
that's fine, but even if lower, they have a number of claimed
advantages.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raised_bed_gardening

Raised bed gardening is a form of gardening in which the soil is formed in 3 – 4 foot (1.0–1.2 m) wide beds, which can be of any length or shape. The soil is raised above the surrounding soil[1] (approximately 6 inches to waist-high), is sometimes enclosed by a frame generally made of wood, rock, or concrete blocks, and may be enriched with compost.[2] The vegetable plants are spaced in geometric patterns, much closer together than conventional row gardening.[2] The spacing is such that when the vegetables are fully grown, their leaves just barely touch each other, creating a microclimate in which weed growth is suppressed[2] and moisture is conserved.[3] Raised beds produce a variety of benefits: they extend the planting season,[2] they can reduce weeds if designed and planted properly[2] and reduce the need to use poor native soil. Since the gardener does not walk on the raised beds, the soil is not compacted and the roots have an easier time growing.[4] The close plant spacing
and the use of compost generally result in higher yields with raised beds in comparison to conventional row gardening. Waist-high raised beds enable the elderly and handicapped to grow vegetables without having to bend-over to tend them.[4]

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

On Wed, 23 May 2012 00:12:26 +0100, The Medway Handyman
wrote:


Mine will only be accessible from one side - so only 2' front to back.

Metre cubed from Wickes about £120.


Blinking heck!

We paid £26 a ton from a lawn company locally. Including delivery. We
had 5 tons delivered though.

I have raised beds from pallet collars on my allotment. They're
anything from free to £6 depending where you can source them.
They are hinged so fold up nicely to go in a car.

I've not bothered lining them as I assume by the time they rot I'll
want to move things round anyway.



If one does a section of 3x3" post in each corner, would it be worth
extending this above the top a bit? - either to make something nice to
tie strings to for support etc (thinking vegetable use here)...

Mine are going to be either side of a pergola, so I'm having posts
anyway.

It also occurred to me that they could be - on occasion - topped by
perspex 'lids' in timber frames to act as mini greenhouses (can't think
of the name).

Closh or something like that...



Cloche or cold frame.

I think one of the post garden shops does a lovely range of these for
about £80 each.
--
http://www.voucherfreebies.co.uk

In message , mogga
writes
On Wed, 23 May 2012 00:12:26 +0100, The Medway Handyman
wrote:


Mine will only be accessible from one side - so only 2' front to back.

Metre cubed from Wickes about £120.


Blinking heck!

We paid £26 a ton from a lawn company locally. Including delivery. We
had 5 tons delivered though.

I have raised beds from pallet collars on my allotment. They're
anything from free to £6 depending where you can source them.
They are hinged so fold up nicely to go in a car.

I've not bothered lining them as I assume by the time they rot I'll
want to move things round anyway.

I can find you some *free* used tractor tyres:-)

regards

--
Tim Lamb

On Wed, 23 May 2012 14:39:22 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


We paid £26 a ton from a lawn company locally. Including delivery. We
had 5 tons delivered though.

I have raised beds from pallet collars on my allotment. They're
anything from free to £6 depending where you can source them.
They are hinged so fold up nicely to go in a car.

I've not bothered lining them as I assume by the time they rot I'll
want to move things round anyway.

I can find you some *free* used tractor tyres:-)



Really?
Near Oldham?
--
http://www.voucherfreebies.co.uk

mogga wrote:
On Wed, 23 May 2012 14:39:22 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


We paid £26 a ton from a lawn company locally. Including delivery. We
had 5 tons delivered though.

I have raised beds from pallet collars on my allotment. They're
anything from free to £6 depending where you can source them.
They are hinged so fold up nicely to go in a car.

I've not bothered lining them as I assume by the time they rot I'll
want to move things round anyway.
I can find you some *free* used tractor tyres:-)



Really?
Near Oldham?

Normally, just speak to a local farmer or his tyre company. It saves
paying to have them taken away. If you want something bigger, then your
local heavy plant hire place is where you want to be.

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

On Wed, 23 May 2012 15:50:26 +0100, John Williamson
wrote:



Really?
Near Oldham?

Normally, just speak to a local farmer or his tyre company. It saves
paying to have them taken away. If you want something bigger, then your
local heavy plant hire place is where you want to be.

What's the biggest size? And could it lined with plastic be a swimming
pool?

--
http://www.voucherfreebies.co.uk

On 23/05/2012 09:30, Chris J Dixon wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

On 23/05/2012 01:30, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

I was thinking 18" to 24" high.

I run at 9-12"

That would still involve bending over or kneeling though?

The height is a matter of choice. If you want them quite high,
that's fine, but even if lower, they have a number of claimed
advantages.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raised_bed_gardening

Raised bed gardening is a form of gardening in which the soil is formed in 3 – 4 foot (1.0–1.2 m) wide beds, which can be of any length or shape. The soil is raised above the surrounding soil[1] (approximately 6 inches to waist-high), is sometimes enclosed by a frame generally made of wood, rock, or concrete blocks, and may be enriched with compost.[2] The vegetable plants are spaced in geometric patterns, much closer together than conventional row gardening.[2] The spacing is such that when the vegetables are fully grown, their leaves just barely touch each other, creating a microclimate in which weed growth is suppressed[2] and moisture is conserved.[3] Raised beds produce a variety of benefits: they extend the planting season,[2] they can reduce weeds if designed and planted properly[2] and reduce the need to use poor native soil. Since the gardener does not walk on the raised beds, the soil is not compacted and the roots have an easier time growing.[4] The close plant spacing

and the use of compost generally result in higher yields with raised beds in comparison to conventional row gardening. Waist-high raised beds enable the elderly and handicapped to grow vegetables without having to bend-over to tend them.[4]

Chris

Cheers for that.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In message , mogga
writes
On Wed, 23 May 2012 14:39:22 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


We paid £26 a ton from a lawn company locally. Including delivery. We
had 5 tons delivered though.

I have raised beds from pallet collars on my allotment. They're
anything from free to £6 depending where you can source them.
They are hinged so fold up nicely to go in a car.

I've not bothered lining them as I assume by the time they rot I'll
want to move things round anyway.

I can find you some *free* used tractor tyres:-)



Really?
Near Oldham?

There is an £8.00 disposal charge on tractor rears. Find your nearest
agricultural tyre fitter:-)

regards

--
Tim Lamb

"mogga" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 May 2012 15:50:26 +0100, John Williamson
wrote:



Really?
Near Oldham?

Normally, just speak to a local farmer or his tyre company. It saves
paying to have them taken away. If you want something bigger, then your
local heavy plant hire place is where you want to be.

What's the biggest size?

As big as your car.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/...7d995b7718.jpg

And could it lined with plastic be a swimming pool?


Not really viable.

On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:
SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

They are going on an area which is currently slabbed with those
attractive 70's pink & yellow slabs - which will be removed.

Carpentry no problem - but should raised beds be lined with anything?

Not worried about the timber rotting - it will be pressure treated. More
moisture retention.

ok, I had a bash at some yesterday:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ed_flower_beds

Had planned on doing them with a single length of 9x2 for each side, but
the timber shop did not have that in long enough lengths. So I bought 6x
4.8m lengths of 6x2" in the end. (got about 2.4m left over). Also used
about 2m of 3x3" fence post for the corners.

Prolly took about 3 hours including getting the timber. Timber cost £120.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
The Medway Handyman wrote:
SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

I made 'ers out of 3x3 corners hammered in, and split pole pressure
treated. Very 'rustic'.

They are going on an area which is currently slabbed with those
attractive 70's pink & yellow slabs - which will be removed.
Carpentry no problem - but should raised beds be lined with
anything?
Not worried about the timber rotting - it will be pressure treated.
More moisture retention.

it still rots. wont last forever.

So's TMH ...


--
geoff

On 26/05/2012 01:30, geoff wrote:
In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
The Medway Handyman wrote:
SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

I made 'ers out of 3x3 corners hammered in, and split pole pressure
treated. Very 'rustic'.

They are going on an area which is currently slabbed with those
attractive 70's pink & yellow slabs - which will be removed.
Carpentry no problem - but should raised beds be lined with anything?
Not worried about the timber rotting - it will be pressure treated.
More moisture retention.

it still rots. wont last forever.

So's TMH ...


Ah, but when I go, I'm going to haunt Dennis....

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Wed, 23 May 2012 14:39:22 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

I can find you some *free* used tractor tyres:-)

Fark. What a cracking idea, and I've seen loads of them lying around,
too. Mostly used as flower beds, but two or three deep they'd be ideal
veggy plots.

In message , mogga
writes
On Wed, 23 May 2012 14:39:22 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


We paid £26 a ton from a lawn company locally. Including delivery. We
had 5 tons delivered though.

I have raised beds from pallet collars on my allotment. They're
anything from free to £6 depending where you can source them.
They are hinged so fold up nicely to go in a car.

I've not bothered lining them as I assume by the time they rot I'll
want to move things round anyway.

I can find you some *free* used tractor tyres:-)



Really?
Near Oldham?
Nah -you'd 'ave to Carryham


--
geoff

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote
Tim Lamb wrote

I can find you some *free* used tractor tyres:-)

Fark. What a cracking idea, and I've seen loads of them
lying around, too. Mostly used as flower beds, but two
or three deep they'd be ideal veggy plots.

They can have some real downsides tho, particularly because
they arent porous, you can end up with rot in the vegys that
you don't get with timber systems in high rainfall areas.

And don't look as good as the timber beds IMO either.

On Sun, 27 May 2012 06:11:40 +1000, "Rod Speed"
wrote:

They can have some real downsides tho, particularly because
they arent porous, you can end up with rot in the vegys that
you don't get with timber systems in high rainfall areas.

I'd drill holes in the sidewalls.

And don't look as good as the timber beds IMO either.

An agri-themed garden would look a treat, here.
****, better than half an acre of concrete anyway, and if the tyres
are painted all pastel shades, it would be even more of an eyeso...
treat.

On Friday, May 25, 2012 7:38:04 PM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:
SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

They are going on an area which is currently slabbed with those
attractive 70's pink & yellow slabs - which will be removed.

Carpentry no problem - but should raised beds be lined with anything?

Not worried about the timber rotting - it will be pressure treated. More
moisture retention.

ok, I had a bash at some yesterday:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ed_flower_beds

Had planned on doing them with a single length of 9x2 for each side, but
the timber shop did not have that in long enough lengths. So I bought 6x
4.8m lengths of 6x2" in the end. (got about 2.4m left over). Also used
about 2m of 3x3" fence post for the corners.

Prolly took about 3 hours including getting the timber. Timber cost £120.

On 29/05/2012 11:01, fred wrote:
On Friday, May 25, 2012 7:38:04 PM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/05/2012 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:
SWMBO wants some raised beds made, railway sleepers or similar.

They are going on an area which is currently slabbed with those
attractive 70's pink& yellow slabs - which will be removed.

Carpentry no problem - but should raised beds be lined with
anything?

Not worried about the timber rotting - it will be pressure
treated. More moisture retention.

ok, I had a bash at some yesterday:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ed_flower_beds

Had planned on doing them with a single length of 9x2 for each
side, but the timber shop did not have that in long enough lengths.
So I bought 6x 4.8m lengths of 6x2" in the end. (got about 2.4m
left over). Also used about 2m of 3x3" fence post for the corners.

Prolly took about 3 hours including getting the timber. Timber cost
£120.

Well I'm not really a believer in raised beds per se but I would
think you might have been better overshooting the ends and putting
the vertical post outside the rectangle. All the forces are going to
be trying to push the sides off so your way you are depending on the
nails to hold it together. Setting the posts outside would allow the
post be anchored in the ground to help resist the outward forces.

Yes that is a fair point, although there is not going to be a huge
amount of force involved. Although the article did not actually make it
that clear (I may go and "improve" it) the direction of the "lap" at the
end was significant, since it means the long sides are nailed not only
to the face of the support block, but also pinned through ends of the
short sides, meaning to move them away from the blocks you would need to
shift not only the nails into the face, but the nails acting in shear
into the ends of the boards.

For fixing in place, what I have seen done, is to drive a few bits of
rebar into the ground on the inside adjacent to the sides, and then fix
that to the side of timber with a bit of builders band and some screws.
A bit easier to do than attempting to "plant" the whole post section.

(for the record, I did consider more elaborate joinery at the corners -
possible half lapping each plank and then pinning down through the
overlaps - but in the end rejected that since with 6x2 it would have
taken very long fixings, plus another 32 cuts to prepare all the ends!)

Just my tuppence worth.

Valued, thanks.


--
Cheers,

John.

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