I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.

Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?

I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than an
angle grinder! g) might be appropriate - but what would be the best
way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter running
against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router wouldn't get
very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?

TIA.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On Feb 13, 10:48*pm, Roger Mills wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.

Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?

I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than an
angle grinder! g) might be appropriate - but what would be the best
way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter running
against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router wouldn't get
very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?

TIA.


Just lever the timber strip off, take it from there.


NT

Tabby wrote:
On Feb 13, 10:48 pm, Roger Mills wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.

Roger,

Replying through Tabby as I have killfiled all Google and Gmail posts to
reduce spam.

How much extra is the door thickness?

Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?

I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than
an angle grinder! g) might be appropriate - but what would be the
best way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter
running against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router
wouldn't get very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?

TIA.

Personally, I prefer (and have done many) to use a hand rebate plane on the
bulk of the rebate removal, and then use a nosing plane and/or sharp paring
chisel to clean out one the corners.

Can be a bit time consuming and arm-aching, but you have less chance of
doing damage to the frame than using an electric router - assuming that you
even have the space to wield one (unlikely and possibly a little dangerous
in my opinion).


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Just lever the timber strip off, take it from there.


Tabby,

The rebate on a front door is usually machined on and *not* formed with a
'planted' door stop.


Cash

Tabby wrote:
On Feb 13, 10:48 pm, Roger wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.

Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?

I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than an
angle grinder!g) might be appropriate - but what would be the best
way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter running
against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router wouldn't get
very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?

TIA.


Just lever the timber strip off, take it from there.


NT

What timber strip? most door frames are a solid rebated piece of timber.

On Feb 13, 10:48 pm, Roger Mills wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.

Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?

I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than an
angle grinder! g) might be appropriate - but what would be the best
way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter running
against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router wouldn't get
very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?

TIA.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

can you "plant on" extra stripwood on the interior side of the frame
to increase the rebate depth that way?

Jim K

On 14 Feb, 08:18, Jim K wrote:
On Feb 13, 10:48 pm, Roger Mills wrote:









I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.

Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?

I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than an
angle grinder! g) might be appropriate - but what would be the best
way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter running
against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router wouldn't get
very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?

TIA.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

can you "plant on" extra stripwood on the interior side of the frame
to increase the rebate depth that way?

Jim K

A trimming router might be best as a full-on one can be awkward to
handle in a situation like this. Fix a fence to the frame and use a
straight bit and a guide ring. Finish of the corners with a corner
chisel and/or a bull nose plane.
Lie Nielsen make a nice little side rebate/ block plane which would do
the job.

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1274

Paul Mc Cann

On Feb 13, 10:48 pm, Roger Mills wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.

Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?


Now that is one job where I would call a joiner.

Mike

In article c1508990-0ee7-4b7c-9027-
, says...
Just lever the timber strip off, take it from there.


Not all frames are made thus. This house has the slamming strip included
in the main baulk. Dammit. Makes it a ******* if you've got a slightly
warped door.

--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.

A trimming router might be best as a full-on one can be awkward to
handle in a situation like this.

That's what I used. You can get pretty tight to the corners with an
offset belt driven shaft, but 5mm at a time is about all it will handle
depth wise.

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 00:18:53 -0800 (PST), Jim K wrote:
On Feb 13, 10:48 pm, Roger Mills wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.

Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?

I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than an
angle grinder! g) might be appropriate - but what would be the best
way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter running
against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router wouldn't get
very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?

TIA.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

can you "plant on" extra stripwood on the interior side of the frame
to increase the rebate depth that way?

Jim K

If the new door is wooden, it might be easier to remove a small amount of
material from the outer edge of the door, so that it fits the existing
frame. Just to the point where it would fit the frame - not off the entire
outside surface.

--
http://thisreallyismyhost.99k.org/14...0210512573.php

On 13/02/2011 22:54, Tabby wrote:
On Feb 13, 10:48 pm, Roger wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.

Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?

I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than an
angle grinder!g) might be appropriate - but what would be the best
way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter running
against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router wouldn't get
very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?

TIA.


Just lever the timber strip off, take it from there.


NT

There ain't a strip! The rebate is cut into the frame - with the
non-door side being thicker than the door side.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 13/02/2011 23:50, Cash wrote:
Tabby wrote:
On Feb 13, 10:48 pm, Roger wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.

Roger,

Replying through Tabby as I have killfiled all Google and Gmail posts to
reduce spam.

I'm not *posting* via gmail - I simply use a throw-away gmail account in
case anyone wants to reply directly.

How much extra is the door thickness?

Probably 3-4 mm.

Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?

I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than
an angle grinder!g) might be appropriate - but what would be the
best way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter
running against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router
wouldn't get very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?

TIA.

Personally, I prefer (and have done many) to use a hand rebate plane on the
bulk of the rebate removal, and then use a nosing plane and/or sharp paring
chisel to clean out one the corners.

Can be a bit time consuming and arm-aching, but you have less chance of
doing damage to the frame than using an electric router - assuming that you
even have the space to wield one (unlikely and possibly a little dangerous
in my opinion).


Makes sense. Thanks.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 14/02/2011 09:52, fred wrote:
On 14 Feb, 08:18, Jim wrote:
On Feb 13, 10:48 pm, Roger wrote:









I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.

Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?

I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than an
angle grinder!g) might be appropriate - but what would be the best
way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter running
against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router wouldn't get
very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?

TIA.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

can you "plant on" extra stripwood on the interior side of the frame
to increase the rebate depth that way?

Jim K

A trimming router might be best as a full-on one can be awkward to
handle in a situation like this. Fix a fence to the frame and use a
straight bit and a guide ring. Finish of the corners with a corner
chisel and/or a bull nose plane.
Lie Nielsen make a nice little side rebate/ block plane which would do
the job.

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1274

Paul Mc Cann


Mm - a bit pricey!

--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

In article , Roger Mills
writes
On 14/02/2011 09:52, fred wrote:

A trimming router might be best as a full-on one can be awkward to
handle in a situation like this. Fix a fence to the frame and use a
straight bit and a guide ring. Finish of the corners with a corner
chisel and/or a bull nose plane.
Lie Nielsen make a nice little side rebate/ block plane which would do
the job.

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1274

Paul Mc Cann

Mm - a bit pricey!

I have done this with a conventional router with the regular adjustable
sliding guide. It's difficult to do well as the router is heavy and
wants to flop about and a few machine marks are bound to be left by the
end of the cutter but these can be sanded out. The 50mm left at the
corners I took out carefully and gradually with a razor sharp chisel.

A straightforward job in softwood that is to be painted (and so could be
filled if things go awry) but I'd be wary on hardwood that was to be
left in a natural finish.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

A router is by far the best way but make sure you set the depth and the thickness adjustment first and also know which way the router turns, I normally go upward as it won't jump out of your hands unexpectedly the finish the rest with a sharp chisel using a long spirit level to get the line correct, the problem is most joiners will say that you must replace the frame etc and cost you loads more but if you have a solid frame then a good joiner will be able to work around it but it will take some time to archive it especial lift our having new hinges lock pack and purco fitted allow 2 hours per door to be sure and plenty of cups of tea or coffee.