I am building quite a large garage and I've had a 14ft wide Henderson door
(unused) that i bought a while ago intending to use it on the much delayed
garage.

Unfortunately, it blew over onto a garden bench and received a hole peirced
in the skin.

I'm also starting to desire a 16ft wide door.

Budgets are getting tight now - as always...

So, I could repair the piercing and mount the door. Or, I could try to
build a 16ft door (brickwork's not started yet).

Does anyone have any experience of building a wooden up and over door of
this size? Would I be able to use the spring, etc from the 14ft door
(adjusted for the extra weight)?

Or, is it just too hard and too heavy? I was thinking of tongue and groove
floorboards on a wooden or metal frame.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance
Paul

Paul wrote:

Or, is it just too hard and too heavy? I was thinking of tongue and groove
floorboards on a wooden or metal frame.

I think it would be very heavy, which would make it [a]
difficult to build and [b] difficult to install once built.

There's a big diffenence in weight between 1mm steel sheet and
12mm timber.

If you do do it, you'll definitely need a steel frame - a timber
frame will just flex too much at that size (unless you use
massive timbers, which will make it even heavier).

--
Grunff

In article ,
Paul wrote:
I am building quite a large garage and I've had a 14ft wide Henderson door
(unused) that i bought a while ago intending to use it on the much delayed
garage.

Unfortunately, it blew over onto a garden bench and received a hole peirced
in the skin.

I'm also starting to desire a 16ft wide door.

Budgets are getting tight now - as always...

So, I could repair the piercing and mount the door. Or, I could try to
build a 16ft door (brickwork's not started yet).

Does anyone have any experience of building a wooden up and over door of
this size? Would I be able to use the spring, etc from the 14ft door
(adjusted for the extra weight)?

Or, is it just too hard and too heavy? I was thinking of tongue and groove
floorboards on a wooden or metal frame.

Thoughts?

Look in loot.com or on ebay.co.uk
Neil

Paul wrote:

Or, is it just too hard and too heavy? I was thinking of tongue and groove
floorboards on a wooden or metal frame.

I think a 16ft wide wooden door would be *very* heavy, not a good idea
I don't think.

--
Chris Green )

Grunff wrote:

Paul wrote:

Or, is it just too hard and too heavy? I was thinking of tongue and groove
floorboards on a wooden or metal frame.

I think it would be very heavy, which would make it [a]
difficult to build and [b] difficult to install once built.

There's a big diffenence in weight between 1mm steel sheet and
12mm timber.

At first I thought you are right, but then I start to think about it.

Relative densitites of wood are say 0.9 and steel 7.8 (IIRC).
0.9 *12mm =9.6 and steel 1.0mm* 7.8= 7.8

It depends on what you mean by "big" in this context I would have
though that would mean at least double?


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

Ed Sirett wrote:

Relative densitites of wood are say 0.9 and steel 7.8 (IIRC).
0.9 *12mm =9.6 and steel 1.0mm* 7.8= 7.8

It depends on what you mean by "big" in this context I would have
though that would mean at least double?

Hmm...That's completely correct of course, but totally counter
intuitive.

hangs head in shame

--
Grunff

"Paul" wrote in message


I am building quite a large garage and I've had a 14ft wide Henderson door
(unused) that i bought a while ago intending to use it on the much delayed
garage.

Unfortunately, it blew over onto a garden bench and received a hole peirced
in the skin.

Put that thing on for now but make allowances for future extension with
some sort of sub-frame. Patch the door with a stick on pattern or
picture of some sort if it is still OK on the edges and hasn't lost its
stressing.

If you assemble the amount of timber you would need to make a wooden
door and test the weight you will be able to compare the weight of the
finished product against the weight of the metal door you have. 14 foot
of floorboard say 7 ft long plus frame, will weigh you down G&P.

Not a problem if you make a 16 foot pair of side openers on castors with
each pair made of hinged four foots. Remember that gaps are not
improtant
on a garage. You could quite nicely get away with the garage open 3" on
the top and 6" on the bottom with an inch or so on the sides. It will
show the prospective burglar the car is available. Is that a problem?

Make sure your garage's threshold is flat and level then. What you
really need to do is make sure the doors fully clear the opening and
won't blow closed as you park.

Most people would use stable door hinges. Try rising hinges if the floor
is not level.




--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

My brother in the US had a 2.5 car garage with a single wooden faced door
made in a similar way to how you describe. This worked but had been
retro-fitted with what resembled the strutwork from a biplane on the
inside.... and it still sagged in the middle when raised. The opener was a
very hefty winch, the sort that made the lights go dim when operating.
Real timber will be v.heavy, thin timber facing on a conventional steel door
may be an idea?

As MMcN sugests, side openers may be the way to go for a wide opening.
Henderson do tracks & hangers for either Z-fold doors or alternatively
tracks that can be formed into an 'L'.
Not too expensive at all, and 33" FLB doors are only £45 each which is not
bad compared to making them.
33" x 6 =198" __/\/\/ \__ or __/\/ \/\__

--
Toby.

'One day son, all this will be finished'

"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
...
Grunff wrote:

Paul wrote:

Or, is it just too hard and too heavy? I was thinking of tongue and
groove
floorboards on a wooden or metal frame.

I think it would be very heavy, which would make it [a]
difficult to build and [b] difficult to install once built.

There's a big diffenence in weight between 1mm steel sheet and
12mm timber.

At first I thought you are right, but then I start to think about it.

Relative densitites of wood are say 0.9 and steel 7.8 (IIRC).
0.9 *12mm =9.6 and steel 1.0mm* 7.8= 7.8

It depends on what you mean by "big" in this context I would have
though that would mean at least double?


It may be worth me considering a metal frame as light and rigid as i can
get, sheeted with relatively thin (1/2") tongue & groove.

Problem then is matching up spring gear, etc.

thanks for the feedback
paul

"Michael Mcneil" wrote in message
news:419a425a7291cb6ce109cf3821e6b753.45219@mygate .mailgate.org...
"Paul" wrote in message


I am building quite a large garage and I've had a 14ft wide Henderson
door
(unused) that i bought a while ago intending to use it on the much
delayed
garage.

Unfortunately, it blew over onto a garden bench and received a hole
peirced
in the skin.

Put that thing on for now but make allowances for future extension with
some sort of sub-frame. Patch the door with a stick on pattern or
picture of some sort if it is still OK on the edges and hasn't lost its
stressing.


thanks, was considering that - bordering the extra foot either side with
framing and ply.

If you assemble the amount of timber you would need to make a wooden
door and test the weight you will be able to compare the weight of the
finished product against the weight of the metal door you have. 14 foot
of floorboard say 7 ft long plus frame, will weigh you down G&P.

G&P? please help my ignorance....

i'll give that a go - although proportionately - i.e. i'll calc the number
of floorboards needed and weigh a proportion of them.

Not a problem if you make a 16 foot pair of side openers on castors with
each pair made of hinged four foots. Remember that gaps are not
improtant
on a garage. You could quite nicely get away with the garage open 3" on
the top and 6" on the bottom with an inch or so on the sides. It will
show the prospective burglar the car is available. Is that a problem?


i'd consider this, but i don't have the space - it's hard to explain, but
the garage is at the very bottom of the back garden with driveway access to
the side into the garden effectively entering a new courtyard where space is
at a premium. this won't allow the space for gates opening as well as
"turn-in" so i'm stuffed for that.

however, for the driveway entrance i mentioned, i do need to build something
like this. i was considering 2 X 6ft gates with an angle iron frame and T&G
planks with electric openers.

is this ascii picture any use?

_________________________
| |_ | |
| |d _| |
| |o | |
| R |o G | N |
| O |r_ A d| E |
| A | R o| W |
| D |_ A o| |
| |d G r| C/ |
| |o E | Y |
| |o _| A |
| |r_ | R |
| |_________| D |
| | DRIVE |
| _|_____________|
| |
| |
| |