I have an old rechargeable torch (FWIW:
http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/camping-equipment/coleman-charger-1-krypton-spotlight.asp)
which has soldered-in and now clapped-out NiCd batteries: it was very
effective for many years and so I'd quite like to repair it with new
batteries.

I've got it in bits now and exposed the batteries; however they aren't
the same physical size as 'ordinary' ones so I'm struggling to know what
to look for in terms of finding replacements. I'm sure someone here
will recognise them:

There is a pack comprising two cells mounted end-to-end encased in that
rigid white plastic heat-shrink type stuff, with a solder tag at either
end. Has sticky label with "Energizer" and a long serial number,
41B030AC17601 9641, which Google doesn't recognise!. Dimensions of each
cell are about 41 mm long x 20mm diameter. Does this sound familiar?

No clue as to Ah rating. Charger is 240V / 2.5W; 4.8VAC / 120mA

Are they usually bought as a pair already made up as a pack, or will
have to buy 2 cells separately and get the duct tape out?

Thanks for any pointers
David

In article ,
Lobster wrote:
Dimensions of each
cell are about 41 mm long x 20mm diameter. Does this sound familiar?

Sounds like Sub-C cells. These are the most common size used in power
tools etc. They can be bought singly with tags on them for soldering.
Any of the usual electronics suppliers - even Maplin. Or they certainly
once stocked them.

--
*Who are these kids and why are they calling me Mom?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sep 21, 12:09*am, Lobster wrote:
I have an old rechargeable torch (FWIW:
http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/camping-equipment/coleman-charger...)
which has soldered-in and now clapped-out NiCd batteries: it was very
effective for many years and so I'd quite like to repair it with new
batteries.

I've got it in bits now and exposed the batteries; however they aren't
the same physical size as 'ordinary' ones so I'm struggling to know what
to look for in terms of finding replacements. *I'm sure someone here
will recognise them:

There is a pack comprising two cells mounted end-to-end encased in that
rigid white plastic heat-shrink type stuff, with a solder tag at either
end. *Has sticky label with "Energizer" and a long serial number,
41B030AC17601 9641, which Google doesn't recognise!. *Dimensions of each
cell are about 41 mm long x 20mm diameter. *Does this sound familiar?

No clue as to Ah rating. *Charger is 240V / 2.5W; 4.8VAC / 120mA

Are they usually bought as a pair already made up as a pack, or will
have to buy 2 cells separately and get the duct tape out?

Thanks for any pointers
David

sub-C size are very common. To find the cell capacity in Ah, multiply
0.12 by the number of hours it needs for a full charge. If its trickle
charge only, 1.3Ah will be fine.

Duct tape will be no good, you need to make a proper electrical
connection, tape just doesnt provide enough force. Tagged cells will
make this much easier for you.


NT

On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 01:08:48 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

Dimensions of each cell are about 41 mm long x 20mm diameter.

Sounds like a standard tagged "Sub C" Cell.

I thought a "Sub C" was shorter than 41mm but yeah a C of some sort.
(not that I would recommend GP batteries - they are usually crap)

Not as crap as a lot of batteries out there including Energizer
branded ones.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 21/09/2010 02:03, Tabby wrote:
On Sep 21, 12:09 am, wrote:
I have an old rechargeable torch (FWIW:
http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/camping-equipment/coleman-charger...)
which has soldered-in and now clapped-out NiCd batteries: it was very
effective for many years and so I'd quite like to repair it with new
batteries.

I've got it in bits now and exposed the batteries; however they aren't
the same physical size as 'ordinary' ones so I'm struggling to know what
to look for in terms of finding replacements. I'm sure someone here
will recognise them:

There is a pack comprising two cells mounted end-to-end encased in that
rigid white plastic heat-shrink type stuff, with a solder tag at either
end. Has sticky label with "Energizer" and a long serial number,
41B030AC17601 9641, which Google doesn't recognise!. Dimensions of each
cell are about 41 mm long x 20mm diameter. Does this sound familiar?

No clue as to Ah rating. Charger is 240V / 2.5W; 4.8VAC / 120mA

Are they usually bought as a pair already made up as a pack, or will
have to buy 2 cells separately and get the duct tape out?

sub-C size are very common. To find the cell capacity in Ah, multiply
0.12 by the number of hours it needs for a full charge. If its trickle
charge only, 1.3Ah will be fine.

Ah: "sub-C" - the missing buzzword! (had never heard of it, unsurpringly).

Does the Ah rating matter as regards my charger; is it simply that the
higher the rating the longer it will take to charge and the longer the
charge will last? I've found some convenient/suitable-looking 2.5Ah
cells online - will they be OK with my charger?

Duct tape will be no good, you need to make a proper electrical
connection, tape just doesnt provide enough force. Tagged cells will
make this much easier for you.

Sure - didn't mean that I'd use duct tape to form the electrical
connection, just to sheath the soldered-together pair so the will fit in
the same slot as the old pack, within the torch's body.

Thanks
David






NT

On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 09:18:15 +0100, Lobster
wrote:


Sure - didn't mean that I'd use duct tape to form the electrical
connection, just to sheath the soldered-together pair so the will fit in
the same slot as the old pack, within the torch's body.

Most RC model (rather than toy) shops will sell both cell sized
(diameter) heat shrink and also straps to solder across non tagged
cells (as used with many top spec and diy racing packs). However you
will really need a big iron to solder them properly.

You could also buy the cells there etc.

Cheers, T i m

On 21/09/2010 10:05, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 09:18:15 +0100, Lobster
wrote:


Sure - didn't mean that I'd use duct tape to form the electrical
connection, just to sheath the soldered-together pair so the will fit in
the same slot as the old pack, within the torch's body.

Most RC model (rather than toy) shops will sell both cell sized
(diameter) heat shrink and also straps to solder across non tagged
cells (as used with many top spec and diy racing packs). However you
will really need a big iron to solder them properly.

Thanks. If I go for already-tagged cells, as I'd intended, then will a
conventional iron suffice, as I'd assumed (that's what I have).. is it
just the attaching of tags to a non-tagged cell which needs the extra power?

David

PS Christ on a bike, WTF has happened with the latest version of my
Thunderbird newsreader? Have they gone into partnership with M$oft?
When I just pressed 'send' on the above post, I got warning messages:
"Found an attachment keyword 'attaching'" - "Did you forget to add an
attachment?" "Oops I did"?............ Before we know it there'll be
dancing paperclips too.

On 21 Sep, 02:03, Tabby wrote:

Duct tape will be no good, you need to make a proper electrical
connection, tape just doesnt provide enough force.

Indeed. It might work to start with, but the rubber adhesive on tape
will creep pretty soon and lose contact.

I have however bodged this in the past with superglue. You need to
glue two spots at the side (adding a springy metal bridge is easiest)
and make sure there's a glue-free contact in the middle. I don't
recommend this (tagged cells are as easy to buy as untagged), but it
did the job when needed and lasted the life of the cells.

On Sep 21, 10:23*am, Lobster wrote:
On 21/09/2010 10:05, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 09:18:15 +0100, Lobster
*wrote:

Does the Ah rating matter as regards my charger; is it simply that the
higher the rating the longer it will take to charge and the longer the
charge will last? I've found some convenient/suitable-looking 2.5Ah
cells online - will they be OK with my charger?

We dont know much about your charger. If its a fast charger then maybe
not. If its a 14 hour charge, yes, if its an always on trickle charge,
yes.


However you
will really need a big iron to solder them properly.

Thanks. *If I go for already-tagged cells, as I'd intended, then will a
conventional iron suffice, as I'd assumed (that's what I have).. is it
just the attaching of tags to a non-tagged cell which needs the extra power?

right, standard iron ok for tagged cells.


NT

T i m wrote:
On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 09:18:15 +0100, Lobster
wrote:


Sure - didn't mean that I'd use duct tape to form the electrical
connection, just to sheath the soldered-together pair so the will fit in
the same slot as the old pack, within the torch's body.

Most RC model (rather than toy) shops will sell both cell sized
(diameter) heat shrink and also straps to solder across non tagged
cells (as used with many top spec and diy racing packs). However you
will really need a big iron to solder them properly.

You could also buy the cells there etc.

Cheers, T i m

Unlikely to buy single cells.

Try here

http://www.overlander.co.uk/batterie...1-2v-cell.html

However these are not tagged, but can be still used: the technique is to
abrade and pre tin the surfaces to be soldered with a big hot iron, then
laying two cells in a channel use a hammerhead tip
(http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/?ap...=GF132BCD6B)to
heat the solder between two cells, then slam them together as the iron
is removed.


Better to buy fro the USA for cheaper cells

http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/?me...738&sid=521583

Those guys will also sell you a pre soldered pack made to your specs
with flying leads, if the problems of constriction are beyond you.

I got a price of $12 for a two cell sanyo 1700 sub-C pack...

On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 11:14:38 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:


You could also buy the cells there etc.


Unlikely to buy single cells.

Hmm, my two local places sell singe cells in pretty well all the sizes
but they aren't necessarily the best VFM. Often the matched (racing)
sets come as 6 cells loose in a cardboard box (with their test
characteristics written on each cell).

I think I've built as many a set from singles as I've converted say a
7.2V 'stick' into a 'saddle pack' (for where the battery is two 3 cell
packs placed either side of the car).

Cheers, T i m

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Lobster
saying something like:

Does the Ah rating matter as regards my charger; is it simply that the
higher the rating the longer it will take to charge and the longer the
charge will last? I've found some convenient/suitable-looking 2.5Ah
cells online - will they be OK with my charger?

Nicads are dropping off the radar and unless you want to change your
charger too, you'll need to keep to that technology.
As an example, www.component-shop.co.uk
Look under Radio Control, Single Cells and see they're all NiMH
nowadays. A replacement charger is cheap enough, though.

On 21/09/2010 10:57, Tabby wrote:
On Sep 21, 10:23 am, wrote:
On 21/09/2010 10:05, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 09:18:15 +0100, Lobster
wrote:

Does the Ah rating matter as regards my charger; is it simply that
the higher the rating the longer it will take to charge and the
longer the charge will last? I've found some
convenient/suitable-looking 2.5Ah cells online - will they be OK
with my charger?

We dont know much about your charger. If its a fast charger then
maybe not. If its a 14 hour charge, yes, if its an always on trickle
charge, yes.

AFICS it's just a standard wallwart, which came with the torch: always
took a "long time" to charge the torch, so presumably they should be OK...

David

On Sep 21, 2:00*pm, Lobster wrote:
On 21/09/2010 10:57, Tabby wrote:

On Sep 21, 10:23 am, *wrote:
On 21/09/2010 10:05, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 09:18:15 +0100, Lobster
* *wrote:

Does the Ah rating matter as regards my charger; is it simply that
the higher the rating the longer it will take to charge and the
longer the charge will last? *I've found some
convenient/suitable-looking 2.5Ah cells online - will they be OK
with my charger?

We dont know much about your charger. If its a fast charger then
maybe not. If its a 14 hour charge, yes, if its an always on trickle
charge, yes.

AFICS it's just a standard wallwart, which came with the torch: always
took a "long time" to charge the torch, so presumably they should be OK....

David

Yes, if its slow


NT

On 21/09/2010 00:19, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In ,
wrote:
Dimensions of each
cell are about 41 mm long x 20mm diameter. Does this sound familiar?

Sounds like Sub-C cells. These are the most common size used in power
tools etc. They can be bought singly with tags on them for soldering.
Any of the usual electronics suppliers - even Maplin. Or they certainly
once stocked them.

Are these also known as 1/3 C's?

Dave

On 21/09/2010 22:26, John Rumm wrote:
On 21/09/2010 18:39, Dave wrote:
On 21/09/2010 00:19, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In ,
wrote:
Dimensions of each
cell are about 41 mm long x 20mm diameter. Does this sound familiar?

Sounds like Sub-C cells. These are the most common size used in power
tools etc. They can be bought singly with tags on them for soldering.
Any of the usual electronics suppliers - even Maplin. Or they certainly
once stocked them.

Are these also known as 1/3 C's?

Nope, that is smaller still.

Thanks, I've lost track of odd sized rechargeable these days.

Dave

On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 01:08:48 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

(not that I would recommend GP batteries - they are usually crap)

Aren't they the makers of recyko batteries? I thought they were quite
recommended here?

On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 13:52:14 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:


Nicads are dropping off the radar and unless you want to change your
charger too, you'll need to keep to that technology.

How does nimh recharging differ from nicad charging? I had a charger
for aa, c, and d cells and it had a switch to select between nicads
and nimhs. I often wondered what it did. I notice newer chargers don't
seem to have a switch.

In this case, would swapping a nicad of x Ah for a nimh of the same Ah
rating necessitate a new charger? Especially for items that are
trickle charged, wouldn't the charging be the same?

On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 02:57:50 -0700 (PDT), Tabby
wrote:

standard iron ok for tagged cells.

I bought two sub-c tagged nicads to repair an old rechargeable
screwdriver. I had a difficult time soldering the two batteries
together. What is the trick here? I was using an antex iron, can't
remember which one, but I would have thought it would;d have fallen in
the "standard iron" category. TIA

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Fred
saying something like:

In this case, would swapping a nicad of x Ah for a nimh of the same Ah
rating necessitate a new charger? Especially for items that are
trickle charged, wouldn't the charging be the same?

http://www.greenbatteries.com/bachfa.html

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 01:26:49 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

Aren't they the makers of recyko batteries? I thought they were quite
recommended here?

Don't know - but GP make some dire stuff under their own label! (cheap
though)

I just looked at the photo in the cpc flyer and it definitely says GP
recyko on the packet. I'll hold off buying some until someone posts
something complimentary!