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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
I'm preparing ro tile my hallway with ceramic tiles. Is it really necessary to remove the skirting boards before tiling, or is it considered OK to tile up to the skirting boards (leaving them in place)? In my bathroom, I'm preparing to lay self-adhesive vinyl tiles onto the chipboard floor. I have swept the dust off the floor, but is any additional preparation advisabe? (Painting the chipboard with a PVA solution, for example)? Many thanks, Al |
#2
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
On 28 July, 12:42, "AL_z" wrote:
I'm preparing ro tile my hallway with ceramic tiles. Is it really necessary to remove the skirting boards before tiling, or is it considered OK to tile up to the skirting boards (leaving them in place)? In my bathroom, I'm preparing to lay self-adhesive vinyl tiles onto the chipboard floor. I have swept the dust off the floor, but is any additional preparation advisabe? *(Painting the chipboard with a PVA solution, for example)? Many thanks, Al All the vinyl tiles that I have ever laid reccommended dilute PVA first. It doesn't take that long to dry. Jonathan |
#3
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
AL_z wrote:
I'm preparing ro tile my hallway with ceramic tiles. Is it really necessary to remove the skirting boards before tiling, or is it considered OK to tile up to the skirting boards (leaving them in place)? Tiling up to the skirting looks a bit naff IMO, plus you have to be very accurate with your cutting to get a straight edge In my bathroom, I'm preparing to lay self-adhesive vinyl tiles onto the chipboard floor. I have swept the dust off the floor, but is any additional preparation advisabe? (Painting the chipboard with a PVA solution, for example)? Many thanks, Al |
#4
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
stuart noble wrote in
newsYV3o.25659$Sr.22908@hurricane: AL_z wrote: I'm preparing ro tile my hallway with ceramic tiles. Is it really necessary to remove the skirting boards before tiling, or is it considered OK to tile up to the skirting boards (leaving them in place)? Tiling up to the skirting looks a bit naff IMO, plus you have to be very accurate with your cutting to get a straight edge Thank you; that's a good point. What is the usual practice concerning door architraves? I'm guessing they ease it off at the bottom, then cut a bit off, so that the tile can go under it when it is nailed back in place, Is that usual practice? Al |
#6
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
AL_z wrote:
What is the usual practice concerning door architraves? I'm guessing they ease it off at the bottom, then cut a bit off, so that the tile can go un An ideal excuse to treat yourself to a Bosch PMF 180E :-) -- Mike Clarke |
#7
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
AL_z wrote:
stuart noble wrote in newsYV3o.25659$Sr.22908@hurricane: AL_z wrote: I'm preparing ro tile my hallway with ceramic tiles. Is it really necessary to remove the skirting boards before tiling, or is it considered OK to tile up to the skirting boards (leaving them in place)? Tiling up to the skirting looks a bit naff IMO, plus you have to be very accurate with your cutting to get a straight edge Thank you; that's a good point. What is the usual practice concerning door architraves? I'm guessing they ease it off at the bottom, then cut a bit off, so that the tile can go under it when it is nailed back in place, Is that usual practice? Al You can cut them without moving them. You just need a handsaw without the handle (or an extremely bendy saw) so that you can run the blade flat against the tile at 90 degs to the architrave. Make that an old saw as there is usually a nail or two at the bottom. |
#8
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
AL_z wrote:
Jonathan wrote in news:39ffc27d-f8b8-4d7e-88f7- : All the vinyl tiles that I have ever laid reccommended dilute PVA first. It doesn't take that long to dry. Thanks. What is a cheap way to obtain/create diluted PVA? My local builders merchants are Jewson, Travis Perkins and B&Q. I need to treat about 20 sq mtrs (the floor and the walls). Is it generally cheaper to buy ready- diluted solition? ....or buy cheap wood glue and water it down? (if the latter, what ration of glue:to water)? Al B&Q do their own pva IIRC. I use 4 water/1 pva for most things (roughly). Difficult stuff to measure accurately |
#9
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
On 28 July, 12:42, "AL_z" wrote:
I'm preparing ro tile my hallway with ceramic tiles. Is it really necessary to remove the skirting boards before tiling, or is it considered OK to tile up to the skirting boards (leaving them in place)? In my bathroom, I'm preparing to lay self-adhesive vinyl tiles onto the chipboard floor. I have swept the dust off the floor, but is any additional preparation advisabe? *(Painting the chipboard with a PVA solution, for example)? Many thanks, Al PVA is the way to go as others have said. However I have never had much luck with self adhesive vinyl tiles, they have come up in a few months esp. where walked on. There are tiles available with no glue, you stick them down with Evostick or similar rubber based glue. Cheaper too and more colours to choose from. |
#10
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
stuart noble wrote in
news:G1_3o.291400$tH4.160963@hurricane: Thank you; that's a good point. What is the usual practice concerning door architraves? I'm guessing they ease it off at the bottom, then cut a bit off, so that the tile can go under it when it is nailed back in place, Is that usual practice? Al You can cut them without moving them. You just need a handsaw without the handle (or an extremely bendy saw) so that you can run the blade flat against the tile at 90 degs to the architrave. Make that an old saw as there is usually a nail or two at the bottom. Excellent tip, thanks. I don't know why I didn't think of that! Al |
#11
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
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#12
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
On 28 July, 19:36, "AL_z" wrote:
harry wrote in news:c26c08ba-6bd0-4868-af47- : PVA is the way to go as others have said. *However I have never had much luck with self adhesive *vinyl tiles, they have come up in a few months esp. where walked on. *There are tiles available with no glue, you stick them down with Evostick or similar rubber based glue. Cheaper too and more colours to choose from. Thanks - I'll look for those. I do have a stack of self-adhesive tiles which I bought for about 25p each, but if I can get a better quality tile without the self-adhesive, I may be interested. Al The problem with the PVA method is when you wet the floor with it, the timber swells and becomes rough & the tiles don't stick. |
#13
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
harry wrote in
: On 28 July, 19:36, "AL_z" wrote: harry wrote in news:c26c08ba-6bd0-4868-af47- : PVA is the way to go as others have said. *However I have never had much luck with self adhesive *vinyl tiles, they have come up in a few months esp. where walked on. *There are tiles available with no glue, you stick them down with Evostick or similar rubber based glue. Cheaper too and more colours to choose from. Thanks - I'll look for those. I do have a stack of self-adhesive tiles which I bought for about 25p each, but if I can get a better quality tile without the self-adhesive, I may be interested. Al The problem with the PVA method is when you wet the floor with it, the timber swells and becomes rough & the tiles don't stick. I see. Is there a better preparation you can recommend? Al |
#14
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Couple of floor-tiling questions...
harry
wibbled on Thursday 29 July 2010 07:52 On 28 July, 19:36, "AL_z" wrote: harry wrote in news:c26c08ba-6bd0-4868-af47- : PVA is the way to go as others have said. However I have never had much luck with self adhesive vinyl tiles, they have come up in a few months esp. where walked on. There are tiles available with no glue, you stick them down with Evostick or similar rubber based glue. Cheaper too and more colours to choose from. Thanks - I'll look for those. I do have a stack of self-adhesive tiles which I bought for about 25p each, but if I can get a better quality tile without the self-adhesive, I may be interested. Al The problem with the PVA method is when you wet the floor with it, the timber swells and becomes rough & the tiles don't stick. I went over my chip floor with 2 coats of ronseal exterior woodstain (had it lying around, substitute any varnishy stuff of your choice). That soaked in, firemed up and waterproofed the surface and gave a dust free skin for the tiles to stick to. Only on lifted slightly and that got evo- stik'd back and stayed down. I wouldn't use PVA either - not stable in the presence of water. -- Tim Watts Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer. |
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