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Default Couple of floor-tiling questions...


I'm preparing ro tile my hallway with ceramic tiles. Is it really necessary
to remove the skirting boards before tiling, or is it considered OK to tile
up to the skirting boards (leaving them in place)?

In my bathroom, I'm preparing to lay self-adhesive vinyl tiles onto the
chipboard floor. I have swept the dust off the floor, but is any additional
preparation advisabe? (Painting the chipboard with a PVA solution, for
example)?

Many thanks,

Al
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Default Couple of floor-tiling questions...

On 28 July, 12:42, "AL_z" wrote:
I'm preparing ro tile my hallway with ceramic tiles. Is it really necessary
to remove the skirting boards before tiling, or is it considered OK to tile
up to the skirting boards (leaving them in place)?

In my bathroom, I'm preparing to lay self-adhesive vinyl tiles onto the
chipboard floor. I have swept the dust off the floor, but is any additional
preparation advisabe? *(Painting the chipboard with a PVA solution, for
example)?

Many thanks,

Al


All the vinyl tiles that I have ever laid reccommended dilute PVA
first. It doesn't take that long to dry.

Jonathan
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Default Couple of floor-tiling questions...

AL_z wrote:
I'm preparing ro tile my hallway with ceramic tiles. Is it really necessary
to remove the skirting boards before tiling, or is it considered OK to tile
up to the skirting boards (leaving them in place)?


Tiling up to the skirting looks a bit naff IMO, plus you have to be very
accurate with your cutting to get a straight edge

In my bathroom, I'm preparing to lay self-adhesive vinyl tiles onto the
chipboard floor. I have swept the dust off the floor, but is any additional
preparation advisabe? (Painting the chipboard with a PVA solution, for
example)?

Many thanks,

Al


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Default Couple of floor-tiling questions...

stuart noble wrote in
newsYV3o.25659$Sr.22908@hurricane:

AL_z wrote:
I'm preparing ro tile my hallway with ceramic tiles. Is it really
necessary to remove the skirting boards before tiling, or is it
considered OK to tile up to the skirting boards (leaving them in
place)?


Tiling up to the skirting looks a bit naff IMO, plus you have to be
very accurate with your cutting to get a straight edge



Thank you; that's a good point. What is the usual practice concerning door
architraves? I'm guessing they ease it off at the bottom, then cut a bit
off, so that the tile can go under it when it is nailed back in place, Is
that usual practice?


Al

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Default Couple of floor-tiling questions...

AL_z wrote:

What is the usual practice concerning door
architraves? I'm guessing they ease it off at the bottom, then cut a bit
off, so that the tile can go un


An ideal excuse to treat yourself to a Bosch PMF 180E :-)

--
Mike Clarke
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Default Couple of floor-tiling questions...

AL_z wrote:
stuart noble wrote in
newsYV3o.25659$Sr.22908@hurricane:

AL_z wrote:
I'm preparing ro tile my hallway with ceramic tiles. Is it really
necessary to remove the skirting boards before tiling, or is it
considered OK to tile up to the skirting boards (leaving them in
place)?

Tiling up to the skirting looks a bit naff IMO, plus you have to be
very accurate with your cutting to get a straight edge



Thank you; that's a good point. What is the usual practice concerning door
architraves? I'm guessing they ease it off at the bottom, then cut a bit
off, so that the tile can go under it when it is nailed back in place, Is
that usual practice?


Al


You can cut them without moving them. You just need a handsaw without
the handle (or an extremely bendy saw) so that you can run the blade
flat against the tile at 90 degs to the architrave. Make that an old saw
as there is usually a nail or two at the bottom.
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Default Couple of floor-tiling questions...

On 28 July, 12:42, "AL_z" wrote:
I'm preparing ro tile my hallway with ceramic tiles. Is it really necessary
to remove the skirting boards before tiling, or is it considered OK to tile
up to the skirting boards (leaving them in place)?

In my bathroom, I'm preparing to lay self-adhesive vinyl tiles onto the
chipboard floor. I have swept the dust off the floor, but is any additional
preparation advisabe? *(Painting the chipboard with a PVA solution, for
example)?

Many thanks,

Al


PVA is the way to go as others have said. However I have never had
much luck with self adhesive vinyl tiles, they have come up in a few
months esp. where walked on. There are tiles available with no glue,
you stick them down with Evostick or similar rubber based glue.
Cheaper too and more colours to choose from.
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Default Couple of floor-tiling questions...

stuart noble wrote in
news:G1_3o.291400$tH4.160963@hurricane:

Thank you; that's a good point. What is the usual practice concerning
door architraves? I'm guessing they ease it off at the bottom, then
cut a bit off, so that the tile can go under it when it is nailed
back in place, Is that usual practice?


Al


You can cut them without moving them. You just need a handsaw without
the handle (or an extremely bendy saw) so that you can run the blade
flat against the tile at 90 degs to the architrave. Make that an old
saw as there is usually a nail or two at the bottom.





Excellent tip, thanks. I don't know why I didn't think of that!

Al



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Default Couple of floor-tiling questions...

On 28 July, 19:36, "AL_z" wrote:
harry wrote in news:c26c08ba-6bd0-4868-af47-
:



PVA is the way to go as others have said. *However I have never had
much luck with self adhesive *vinyl tiles, they have come up in a few
months esp. where walked on. *There are tiles available with no glue,
you stick them down with Evostick or similar rubber based glue.
Cheaper too and more colours to choose from.


Thanks - I'll look for those. I do have a stack of self-adhesive tiles
which I bought for about 25p each, but if I can get a better quality tile
without the self-adhesive, I may be interested.

Al


The problem with the PVA method is when you wet the floor with it, the
timber swells and becomes rough & the tiles don't stick.
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Default Couple of floor-tiling questions...

harry wrote in
:

On 28 July, 19:36, "AL_z" wrote:
harry wrote in news:c26c08ba-6bd0-4868-af47-
:



PVA is the way to go as others have said. *However I have never had
much luck with self adhesive *vinyl tiles, they have come up in a
few months esp. where walked on. *There are tiles available with no
glue, you stick them down with Evostick or similar rubber based
glue. Cheaper too and more colours to choose from.


Thanks - I'll look for those. I do have a stack of self-adhesive
tiles which I bought for about 25p each, but if I can get a better
quality tile without the self-adhesive, I may be interested.

Al


The problem with the PVA method is when you wet the floor with it, the
timber swells and becomes rough & the tiles don't stick.



I see. Is there a better preparation you can recommend?

Al


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Default Couple of floor-tiling questions...

harry
wibbled on Thursday 29 July 2010 07:52

On 28 July, 19:36, "AL_z" wrote:
harry wrote in news:c26c08ba-6bd0-4868-af47-
:



PVA is the way to go as others have said. However I have never had
much luck with self adhesive vinyl tiles, they have come up in a few
months esp. where walked on. There are tiles available with no glue,
you stick them down with Evostick or similar rubber based glue.
Cheaper too and more colours to choose from.


Thanks - I'll look for those. I do have a stack of self-adhesive tiles
which I bought for about 25p each, but if I can get a better quality tile
without the self-adhesive, I may be interested.

Al


The problem with the PVA method is when you wet the floor with it, the
timber swells and becomes rough & the tiles don't stick.


I went over my chip floor with 2 coats of ronseal exterior woodstain (had it
lying around, substitute any varnishy stuff of your choice).

That soaked in, firemed up and waterproofed the surface and gave a dust free
skin for the tiles to stick to. Only on lifted slightly and that got evo-
stik'd back and stayed down.

I wouldn't use PVA either - not stable in the presence of water.

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

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