Dave Plowman (News) brought next idea :
I've a feeling there were pneumatic 'hammer' drills around before SDS but
fiendishly expensive.

The only candidate I can think of, was the Red Head. That had hammer,
but no rotation - you supplied the rotation.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On 16 May, 14:23, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2010 05:38:26 -0700 (PDT), JimK wrote:
IMHO if a job *needs* SDS you will usually want some weight behind it.

Define "needs".

erm.... when other drills won't do it? ;)))

JimK

"Grimly Curmudgeon" wrote in message
...

Keep your old drill for those times when you might need a bit more
precision. Otoh, I use the SDS drill for most things and find the
'wobbly' chuck thing to be over-stated.

I'm the opposite, I use a 18V Ryobi and some Bosh drills.
Seldom need to even turn the hammer on, although I did for doing some very
hard bricks today.

I only use the SDS for breaking things.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember JimK
saying something like:

horses for courses shurely?

My ancient cheapo heavy SDS is only really called out for biggish/
roughish drilling jobs - say 10mm up, or chiselling out bigger
holes,,breaking small amounts of concrete etc... anything smaller -
cordless or mains ordinary hammer drills (equally cheapo)

The cheap ones are OK if you don't mind the weight.

Indeed a mate has a lightweight Dewalt SDS mains drill and I had a go
with it whilst helping him on a job - TBH I thought it was sh1te
compared to my big cheapo one or was I missing something?

Yes. You're missing the thrilling experience of having to heft the
weighty cheapy one around all day long. Half or a third of the weight
makes a helluva difference to usage.

IMHO if a job *needs* SDS you will usually want some weight behind it.

Not so. My old Bosch green SDS is about ten years old now (only needed a
set of brushes two years ago) and is still packing the same punch it did
when new. It happily chomps away at 10" thick walls with 25mm drill or
chisel.
Of course, for the big stuff I have an Bosch SDS-Max jobby. Got a bit of
a knackered positive stop, but it works well for proper demolition or
gouging/chasing. That was a bargain purchase- because of 110V site
rules, it wasn't wanted by builders so I picked it up dirt cheap.

On 16 May, 17:38, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember JimK
saying something like:

horses for courses shurely?

My ancient cheapo heavy SDS is only really called out for biggish/
roughish drilling jobs - say 10mm up, or chiselling out bigger
holes,,breaking small amounts of concrete etc... anything smaller -
cordless or mains ordinary hammer drills (equally cheapo)

The cheap ones are OK if you don't mind the weight.

Indeed a mate has a lightweight Dewalt SDS mains drill and I had a go
with it whilst helping him on a job - TBH I thought it was sh1te
compared to my big cheapo one or was I missing something?

Yes. You're missing the thrilling experience of having to heft the
weighty cheapy one around all day long. Half or a third of the weight
makes a helluva difference to usage.

IMHO if a job *needs* SDS you will usually want some weight behind it.

Not so. My old Bosch green SDS is about ten years old now (only needed a
set of brushes two years ago) and is still packing the same punch it did
when new. It happily chomps away at 10" thick walls with 25mm drill or
chisel.
Of course, for the big stuff I have an Bosch SDS-Max jobby. Got a bit of
a knackered positive stop, but it works well for proper demolition or
gouging/chasing. That was a bargain purchase- because of 110V site
rules, it wasn't wanted by builders so I picked it up dirt cheap.

you forgot the "IMHO" but I'll let you off if you promise to use it in
future....

JimK

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
IMHO if a job *needs* SDS you will usually want some weight behind it.

Completely contrary to my experience it seems. My 2kg ish Makita will
sale through drilling jobs a normal drill would not touch, and yet needs
practically no additional weight behind it at all. The trick with
effective SDS drilling being to keep just enough force on the drill to
enable the machine to "float" on the hammer action.

Same here. My lightweight DeWalt sails through concrete or engineering
bricks etc with little pressure. Of course you do need to keep the bits
reasonably clean and greased - if they can't move easily, the percussion
won't be so effective.

--
*Never slap a man who's chewing tobacco *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
tony sayer wrote:

Don't go and buy a cheapie, fork out a few quid extra for something
better..

Indeed - but don't worry too much about spending on decent bits for it.

I've a mix of decent bits and cheap bits (right down to a few market
stall jobs). Can't say I see any real difference tbh. They've all taken
plenty of abuse

Darren

"NT" wrote in message
...
On May 15, 11:08 pm, "spamlet" wrote:
"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message

. uk...

on 15/05/2010, spamlet supposed :
Another question arises though (in my thinking about those very hard
but
rather thin panels in my garage): is an SDS going to run the risk of
cracking concrete rather than drilling it?
Why do there seem to be no thin diamond drill bits for these hard but
delicate jobs?

You would need to be very gentle with an SDS on a panel garage.

Thought so: back to hanging things from bamboo threaded through the spare
bolt holes then!

S

You can get mortar raking bits for angle grinders that can be used
like a short drill bit. Theyre abrasive coated, TC IIRC, so one ought
to do the job if you take care not to let it wander sideways.

I've drilled asbestos panels using a no-hammer drill years ago, it was
slow but did work. I've a feeling it was done with a twist drill, not
a masonry bit.

NT

Good idea. I'll keep an eye out for some.
Won't be drilling any asbestos though!
(Mind you it's amazing when I recall how as kids we used to 'help' dad by
rolling up 'sausages' from his tin of lovely fluffy Rawlplug asbestos!)

Cheers,
S

Dave Plowman (News) used his keyboard to write :
Of course you do need to keep the bits
reasonably clean and greased - if they can't move easily, the percussion
won't be so effective.

When I first used SDS, I did wonder what the small pot of grease was
for. It seemed counter-intuitive that it was for the bit - where it
would attract all of the grit.

I agree with the comments about pressure on the drill. You have to push
with just the right pressure, to get best performance. Not too hard,
not too gentle. The right pressure to get maximum bounce on the tip.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember JimK
saying something like:

you forgot the "IMHO" but I'll let you off if you promise to use it in
future....

My opinion ain't humble.

On 16 May, 19:17, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:

IMHO if a job *needs* SDS you will usually want some weight behind it.
Completely contrary to my experience it seems. My 2kg ish Makita will
sale through drilling jobs a normal drill would not touch, and yet needs
practically no additional weight behind it at all. The trick with
effective SDS drilling being to keep just enough force on the drill to
enable the machine to "float" on the hammer action.

Same here. My lightweight DeWalt sails through concrete or engineering
bricks etc with little pressure. Of course you do need to keep the bits
reasonably clean and greased - if they can't move easily, the percussion
won't be so effective.


odd... given that they work by a weight banging on the end of a
turning drill bit, I would expect a heavier machine to perform better
(larger weight & equal & opposite forces etc) - this "light pressure"
and "floating" technique - is that, I wonder, because with the lighter
ones, even when you lean on 'em, won't drill any faster??

The one i tried just seemed to "rattle" like a normal hammer - I had
to double check that it was SDS.

Ultimately I spose if OP is dragging it round all day a lighter one
could be advantageous....

cheers
JimK

On 17 May, 04:39, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember JimK
saying something like:

you forgot the "IMHO" but I'll let you off if you promise to use it in
future....

My opinion ain't humble.

mmmm

In article
,
JimK wrote:
Same here. My lightweight DeWalt sails through concrete or engineering
bricks etc with little pressure. Of course you do need to keep the bits
reasonably clean and greased - if they can't move easily, the percussion
won't be so effective.


odd... given that they work by a weight banging on the end of a
turning drill bit, I would expect a heavier machine to perform better
(larger weight & equal & opposite forces etc) - this "light pressure"
and "floating" technique - is that, I wonder, because with the lighter
ones, even when you lean on 'em, won't drill any faster??

Sort of the same as an impact screw driver - virtually no torque reaction
fed back to the user.

The one i tried just seemed to "rattle" like a normal hammer - I had
to double check that it was SDS.

You have to apply enough pressure so the mechanism comes in contact with
the bit. Hence my note about keeping it clean and greased.

Ultimately I spose if OP is dragging it round all day a lighter one
could be advantageous....

If you've ever used one for wall chasing you'll soon appreciate the
lighter model. Regardless of how strong you are. Or think you are. ;-)
Pretty well everyone with experience of using them says so. But feel free
to find out for yourself.

--
*Would a fly without wings be called a walk?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 17 May, 10:25, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
JimK wrote:

Same here. My lightweight DeWalt sails through concrete or engineering
bricks etc with little pressure. Of course you do need to keep the bits
reasonably clean and greased - if they can't move easily, the percussion
won't be so effective.

odd... given that they work by a weight banging on the end of a
turning drill bit, I would expect a heavier machine to perform better
(larger weight & equal & opposite forces etc) - this "light pressure"
and "floating" technique - is that, I wonder, because with the lighter
ones, even when you lean on 'em, won't drill any faster??

Sort of the same as an impact screw driver - virtually no torque reaction
fed back to the user.

The one i tried just seemed to "rattle" like a normal hammer - I had
to double check that it was SDS.

You have to apply enough pressure so the mechanism comes in contact with
the bit. Hence my note about keeping it clean and greased.

Ultimately I spose if OP is dragging it round all day a lighter one
could be advantageous....

If you've ever used one for wall chasing you'll soon appreciate the
lighter model. Regardless of how strong you are. Or think you are. ;-)
Pretty well everyone with experience of using them says so. But feel free
to find out for yourself.

But let's not make the mistake of stifling discussions - so that we
can learn...

Cheers
JimK

In article
,
JimK wrote:
If you've ever used one for wall chasing you'll soon appreciate the
lighter model. Regardless of how strong you are. Or think you are. ;-)
Pretty well everyone with experience of using them says so. But feel
free to find out for yourself.

But let's not make the mistake of stifling discussions - so that we
can learn...

Not my intention - just passing on experience. A heavy (and cheaper) model
might make more sense if mainly used for breaking up concrete paths, etc.

--
*Acupuncture is a jab well done*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 17 May, 10:58, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
JimK wrote:

If you've ever used one for wall chasing you'll soon appreciate the
lighter model. Regardless of how strong you are. Or think you are. ;-)
Pretty well everyone with experience of using them says so. But feel
free to find out for yourself.
But let's not make the mistake of stifling discussions - so that we
can learn...

Not my intention - just passing on experience. A heavy (and cheaper) model
might make more sense if mainly used for breaking up concrete paths, etc.


understood ;)
Cheers
JimK

on 17/05/2010, JimK supposed :
odd... given that they work by a weight banging on the end of a
turning drill bit, I would expect a heavier machine to perform better
(larger weight & equal & opposite forces etc) - this "light pressure"
and "floating" technique - is that, I wonder, because with the lighter
ones, even when you lean on 'em, won't drill any faster??

Put no pressure on and there is no hammer, put too much pressure on and
there is some hammer, but the effect peaks at a point between the two
extremes.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

In article ,
John Rumm writes:

I find you can usually feel the hammer oscillation if you run the drill
in free space - especially at low speeds.

My metabo doesn't drive the hammer mechanism unless you put a small
pressure on the bit. Likewise, it disengages the hammer mechanism
when there's no pressure on the bit, except the disengaging is now
getting rather sluggish and it now carries on operating the hammer
for about a second after you stop pressing on the drill, whereas it
used to be instant.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

I bought the drill from LIDL

It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well..

I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that the
drill bit seems to be stuck!

Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and pulling
the drill bit forward but am having no luck.

On 18 May, 21:53, mo wrote:
I bought the drill from LIDL

It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well..

I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that the
drill bit seems to be stuck!

Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and pulling
the drill bit forward but am having no luck.

mmm there were references earlier to "twist and lock" (tho my cheapo
doesn;t do that) - do the destructions indicate whether the bits need
twisting as part of the insert/release procedure?

Cheers
JimK

JimK wrote in
:

On 18 May, 21:53, mo wrote:
I bought the drill from LIDL

It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well..

I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that
the drill bit seems to be stuck!

Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and
pulling the drill bit forward but am having no luck.

mmm there were references earlier to "twist and lock" (tho my cheapo
doesn;t do that) - do the destructions indicate whether the bits need
twisting as part of the insert/release procedure?

Cheers
JimK


I think you twist it when you put it in

I tried both ways anyway

Even tried pulling it out with a pair of pliers but tis proper jammed

On 18 May, 22:01, mo wrote:
JimK wrote :



On 18 May, 21:53, mo wrote:
I bought the drill from LIDL

It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well..

I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that
the drill bit seems to be stuck!

Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and
pulling the drill bit forward but am having no luck.

mmm there were references earlier to "twist and lock" (tho my cheapo
doesn;t do that) - do the destructions indicate whether the bits need
twisting as part of the insert/release procedure?

Cheers
JimK

I think you twist it when you put it in

I tried both ways anyway

Even tried pulling it out with a pair of pliers but tis proper jammed

mmm quick trip back to LIDL for another (tested working) / refund? -
unless the stuck bit happens tobe the correct size for the concrete
post drilling job?.....then would seem a shame to waste the
opportunity for another test or two to confirm it's shagged.......;)

Cheers
JimK

JimK wrote in

mmm quick trip back to LIDL for another (tested working) / refund? -
unless the stuck bit happens tobe the correct size for the concrete
post drilling job?.....then would seem a shame to waste the
opportunity for another test or two to confirm it's shagged.......;)

Cheers
JimK


I was thinking that, lol

unfortunatley I need a 14 to do what I want to do and I was testing it out
with an 8 that came supplied.

Shame, I wanted to see what the chisel would do to the brick.

On 18 May, 22:13, mo wrote:
JimK wrote in

mmm quick trip back to LIDL for another (tested working) / refund? -
unless the stuck bit happens tobe the correct size for the concrete
post drilling job?.....then would seem a shame to waste the
opportunity for another test or two to confirm it's shagged.......;)

Cheers
JimK

I was thinking that, lol

unfortunatley I need a 14 to do what I want to do and I was testing it out
with an 8 that came supplied.

Shame, I wanted to see what the chisel would do to the brick.

could do holes to 8mm then at least your 4/7ths the way there :)

If you use masonry screws (no plugs) you may get away with an 8mm
hole? I'm just doing some shelving in the workshop fixing battens to
concrete block - drill 6mm hole and the masonry screws just cut their
own thread in the concrete block when driven in (with cordless
drill)......

Cheers
JimK

"mo" wrote in message
...
I bought the drill from LIDL

It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well..

I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that the
drill bit seems to be stuck!

Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and pulling
the drill bit forward but am having no luck.

You are not alone.

From reading this I'd say, grease rather dry and now full of brick dust,
does not encourage bit removal.
A squirt of WD40 may dissolve the grease and let you pull out the bit.
More ideas:
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...=Google+Search

S

It happens that mo formulated :
I bought the drill from LIDL

It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well..

I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that the
drill bit seems to be stuck!

Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and pulling
the drill bit forward but am having no luck.

Is the bit stuck in the hole you drilled in the wall, or the bit stuck
in the drill?

Try a firm grip on the drill and putting it in reverse for the first,
so it winds its way out of the hole.

For the second you need to pull the black plastic sleeve back away from
the bit, to release it.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Harry Bloomfield wrote in
. uk:

It happens that mo formulated :
I bought the drill from LIDL

It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well..

I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that
the drill bit seems to be stuck!

Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and
pulling the drill bit forward but am having no luck.

Is the bit stuck in the hole you drilled in the wall, or the bit stuck
in the drill?

Try a firm grip on the drill and putting it in reverse for the first,
so it winds its way out of the hole.

For the second you need to pull the black plastic sleeve back away
from the bit, to release it.



It was the drill stuck in the holder and no matter what I tried would
release it. Tried some WD40 to no avail.

I took it back to LIDL and they gave me a refund as they didn't have any
left.

I'll have to go with my tail between my legs to my mate who told me 'you
get what you pay for' from LIDL and I said they offered good value!

I will probably just hire one unless a similarly good deal comes up soon.

In article , mo
scribeth thus
Harry Bloomfield wrote in
.uk:

It happens that mo formulated :
I bought the drill from LIDL

It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well..

I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that
the drill bit seems to be stuck!

Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and
pulling the drill bit forward but am having no luck.

Is the bit stuck in the hole you drilled in the wall, or the bit stuck
in the drill?

Try a firm grip on the drill and putting it in reverse for the first,
so it winds its way out of the hole.

For the second you need to pull the black plastic sleeve back away
from the bit, to release it.



It was the drill stuck in the holder and no matter what I tried would
release it. Tried some WD40 to no avail.

I took it back to LIDL and they gave me a refund as they didn't have any
left.

I'll have to go with my tail between my legs to my mate who told me 'you
get what you pay for' from LIDL and I said they offered good value!

I will probably just hire one unless a similarly good deal comes up soon.

Just fork out for a good one. Had a mate the other day couldn't believe
how the Makita bored a 20 mm hole thru 1 foot thick reinforced concrete
the other day in around half a minute...
--
Tony Sayer

I decided I was going to hire one out.

My lcoal place does it at £10 a night BUT you have to buy your own bits.
Which would have set me back £10 for the ones I wanted at Toolstation.

I went down to toolstation and saw they also had a deal similar to LIDL -
an SDS drill with chisel and some bits. It was a 5kg and a lot beefier but
I thought I might as well because it seemed good value.

Got home and used it. It sailed through the concrete post BUT I did feel
the dreaded 'drill bit stuck in the wall' thing almost straight away -
almost took me off the ladder AND twisted my wrist slightly.

I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it
tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely they
shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the booklet makes
no mention that it could happen.

mo wrote:
I decided I was going to hire one out.

My lcoal place does it at £10 a night BUT you have to buy your own bits.
Which would have set me back £10 for the ones I wanted at Toolstation.

I went down to toolstation and saw they also had a deal similar to LIDL -
an SDS drill with chisel and some bits. It was a 5kg and a lot beefier but
I thought I might as well because it seemed good value.

Got home and used it. It sailed through the concrete post BUT I did feel
the dreaded 'drill bit stuck in the wall' thing almost straight away -
almost took me off the ladder AND twisted my wrist slightly.

I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it
tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely they
shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the booklet makes
no mention that it could happen.



perhaps have it on hammer-only
so there's no twisting?

And start with the thinnest dripp bit you've got.

[g]

"mo" wrote in message
.. .
I decided I was going to hire one out.

My lcoal place does it at £10 a night BUT you have to buy your own bits.
Which would have set me back £10 for the ones I wanted at Toolstation.

I went down to toolstation and saw they also had a deal similar to LIDL -
an SDS drill with chisel and some bits. It was a 5kg and a lot beefier but
I thought I might as well because it seemed good value.

Got home and used it. It sailed through the concrete post BUT I did feel
the dreaded 'drill bit stuck in the wall' thing almost straight away -
almost took me off the ladder AND twisted my wrist slightly.

I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it
tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely they
shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the booklet
makes
no mention that it could happen.


Poor Mo,

I think that washing will have dried (or rotted!) on its own by now!

;-)

S

"spamlet" wrote in
:



Poor Mo,

I think that washing will have dried (or rotted!) on its own by now!

;-)

S





we had a temp line up! I should hopefully be able to play around with my
pulleys tom - undecided on what system to use!

In reply to the other poster. I started off with a 10, then 12 and then a
14. It was on the 14 that it jammed.

"mo" wrote in message
.. .
"spamlet" wrote in
:



Poor Mo,

I think that washing will have dried (or rotted!) on its own by now!

;-)

S

we had a temp line up! I should hopefully be able to play around with my
pulleys tom - undecided on what system to use!

In reply to the other poster. I started off with a 10, then 12 and then a
14. It was on the 14 that it jammed.

Hope you didn't lose all the pulley threads like I did!

S

In article ,
mo wrote:

In reply to the other poster. I started off with a 10, then 12 and then a
14. It was on the 14 that it jammed.



Don't bother with the smaller ones, go straight for the 14mm. It's much less
likely to jam then IME.

Darren

george [dicegeorge] wrote:
mo wrote:
I decided I was going to hire one out.

My lcoal place does it at £10 a night BUT you have to buy your own
bits. Which would have set me back £10 for the ones I wanted at
Toolstation.

I went down to toolstation and saw they also had a deal similar to
LIDL - an SDS drill with chisel and some bits. It was a 5kg and a lot
beefier but I thought I might as well because it seemed good value.

Got home and used it. It sailed through the concrete post BUT I did
feel the dreaded 'drill bit stuck in the wall' thing almost straight
away - almost took me off the ladder AND twisted my wrist slightly.

I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it
tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely
they shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the
booklet makes no mention that it could happen.


perhaps have it on hammer-only
so there's no twisting?

And start with the thinnest dripp bit you've got.

[g]
I was wrong about starting with smaller bits like in metal or wood,
the experts say go straight in with the bigger one.

Even with metal and Wood I dont go through every size of drill bit,
but get quite a bit bigger with every new drill bit
am I wrong in this too?

[g]

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember mo saying something
like:

I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it
tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely they
shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the booklet makes
no mention that it could happen.

Oh I dunno. Perhaps they expect the users to have a bit of common sense?

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember mo saying something
like:

I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it
tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely they
shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the booklet makes
no mention that it could happen.

Oh I dunno. Perhaps they expect the users to have a bit of common sense?

This is the sort of common sense that comes from experience.

Even people with a physics degree and full theoretical knowledge of
equal and opposite forces
could be surprised by a drill twisting them!
[g]

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote in
:

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember mo saying
something like:

I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it
tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely
they shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the
booklet makes no mention that it could happen.

Oh I dunno. Perhaps they expect the users to have a bit of common
sense?

why would the average person expect a drill to suddenly start spinning
around on the wall on them?

In article 6d3af10d-5031-4a38-8e41-1e7c320449f2
@c11g2000vbe.googlegroups.com, says...
Yup - IMHO Screwfix not the place anymore for cheapo/introductory
tools for DIY...they could only offer me a "titan" 9"angle grinder for
£60 recently - next door at (gasp) Argos a perfectly-adequate-for-my-
needs-cheapo was £35 with 14 days no quibble return (and some form of
2year guarantee I expect will be not worth bothering with).


I bought a challenge branded angle grinder, 1000watt hammer drill and
jigsaw from Argos about 8 years ago. All still going very well. Only
used occasionally, but used hard when used.

--
Carl Robson
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In article ,
Elder wrote:
In article 6d3af10d-5031-4a38-8e41-1e7c320449f2
@c11g2000vbe.googlegroups.com, says...
Yup - IMHO Screwfix not the place anymore for cheapo/introductory
tools for DIY...they could only offer me a "titan" 9"angle grinder for
£60 recently - next door at (gasp) Argos a perfectly-adequate-for-my-
needs-cheapo was £35 with 14 days no quibble return (and some form of
2year guarantee I expect will be not worth bothering with).


I bought a challenge branded angle grinder, 1000watt hammer drill and
jigsaw from Argos about 8 years ago. All still going very well. Only
used occasionally, but used hard when used.

IMHO, the best value at the budget end comes from Lidl. You have to keep
an eye out for offers, though - they don't keep them in stock.

I've got:-
A 9" angle grinder.
Electric stapler.
Random orbit sander
Planer
Cordless Hobby drill ( much bigger than a Dremel)

All work just fine. Although I only use them for occasional DIY. But I've
bought things from the likes of B&D which aren't even up to that. ;-)

--
*Those who get too big for their britches will be exposed in the end*

Dave Plowman London SW
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