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#41
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
dennis@home wrote:
Given that the average air temp in the UK appears similar to the ground temp No. Thats incorrect. air varies at this time of year from may +5 to -5 here anyway = over a day. Subsoil is pretty constant at a meter down at about 2-4 degrees. It's was a little warmer in winter, due to summer solar heat and geothermal energy, and its never as warm in summer. ASir source can gice up at very low temps..-25C and you want see a lot of eat out, when youy need it. They are beter in urban situations., because you can pump waste heat from all tehe cars :-) how much extra does a GSHP save over an ASHP? I was toying with the idea but I would need a bore hole for a GSHP and they are not cheap. Also as the heat for the GSHP is actually solar there must be a problem replacing the heat in the bore hole if the neighbours also decide to drill them, there isn't enough land in the cities to absorbed the solar radiation needed. geothermal...there was a nice Swedish scheme that use the (insulated) ground under the house and a pond in summer to run the aircon. Heated up a huge block of subsoil, and pumped it all back in winter. Cool idea. I wonder if BT or the cable co would notice if I pulled my collectors along their ducts? would be **** all use if you did. need contact with wet soggy ground. |
#42
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ground source heating
Roger Chapman wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote: snip 600m seems a lot. Is that the normal sort of length for a ground loop and (without the well) how much land would be needed? a lot depends on the soil. dry sandy is crap, wet soggy clay is very good. I was quoted 200-400m in clay, no loop within 2 meters of any other, for 12kw peak. so 400 square meters minimum, for me, 800 squares better. 0.1 to 0.2 of an acre seems to give me a better idea of the size. Should fit in some (but by no means all) back gardens but installation would make a complete mess of said garden even if it is practicable to dig the trenches at 2 metre centres. If I ever get round to it I might consider the adjacent field instead but that could bring its own problems. If I ever get round to GSHP using buried pipe I will try to *mole* it in rather than trench. Subsoils here are clays and gravel and I have pulled 50m lengths of blue poly for water supplies without problems. I like the manifold idea as pulling loops with more than two legs would be difficult. Luckily the *moles* will fill with water so there is no lack of contact. IIRC moles can't get down to the sort of depth really needed for heat pumping but I would be glad to be proved wrong even though the back lift on my neighbours tractor doesn't work properly so I would have to hire the equipment to do it. On a connected topic there is a particular form of plough used to make a form of land drain. Can anyone tell me what it is called please. We have a very boggy hollow that really needs draining presumably because the land drain has collapsed. I can't find the actually drain but even if I could I lack the resolve to dig out and rebuild what might be as much as 100 yards of drain having spent a couple of weeks last Autumn on a section less than 15 yards long. Mire a 3 ton digger and do in in a couple of amusing days. |
#43
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
Roger Chapman wrote:
JimK wrote: On Feb 2, 12:56 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: Given that the average air temp in the UK appears similar to the ground temp how much extra does a GSHP save over an ASHP? I was toying with the idea but I would need a bore hole for a GSHP and they are not cheap. Also as the heat for the GSHP is actually solar there must be a problem replacing the heat in the bore hole if the neighbours also decide to drill them, there isn't enough land in the cities to absorbed the solar radiation needed. Ground temperatures are much more even than air temperatures and the deeper you go the more constant the temperature. so are you saying the deeper you drill the colder it gets? The deeper you go the warmer it gets but ISTR TNT saying here quite recently that the major source of near surface heating is solar. It is..but even so in winter, the deeper the warmer. Average UK temps and that reflects the subsoil, are about 9C. Go deep enough and thats what you find. Hence the need for a s deep a pipe run as is practicable with a digger. Generally a couple of meters max. |
#44
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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ground source heating
In message , Roger Chapman
writes Tim Lamb wrote: snip 600m seems a lot. Is that the normal sort of length for a ground loop and (without the well) how much land would be needed? a lot depends on the soil. dry sandy is crap, wet soggy clay is very good. I was quoted 200-400m in clay, no loop within 2 meters of any other, for 12kw peak. so 400 square meters minimum, for me, 800 squares better. 0.1 to 0.2 of an acre seems to give me a better idea of the size. Should fit in some (but by no means all) back gardens but installation would make a complete mess of said garden even if it is practicable to dig the trenches at 2 metre centres. If I ever get round to it I might consider the adjacent field instead but that could bring its own problems. If I ever get round to GSHP using buried pipe I will try to *mole* it in rather than trench. Subsoils here are clays and gravel and I have pulled 50m lengths of blue poly for water supplies without problems. I like the manifold idea as pulling loops with more than two legs would be difficult. Luckily the *moles* will fill with water so there is no lack of contact. IIRC moles can't get down to the sort of depth really needed for heat pumping but I would be glad to be proved wrong even though the back lift on my neighbours tractor doesn't work properly so I would have to hire the equipment to do it. I would expect to get between 2 and 3 feet. The water table is at about 18" during the Winter. I have an old single leg subsoiler which can be fitted with a short length of 2" steel pipe to form the hole for the collector pipe. The usual trick is to run the subsoiler through the ground first to check for obstructions and then couple up the pipe for the pull. On a connected topic there is a particular form of plough used to make a form of land drain. Can anyone tell me what it is called please. We have a very boggy hollow that really needs draining presumably because the land drain has collapsed. I can't find the actually drain but even if I could I lack the resolve to dig out and rebuild what might be as much as 100 yards of drain having spent a couple of weeks last Autumn on a section less than 15 yards long. Try mole plough:-) Lots of horsepower needed to pull one. AFAIK mole drains only work in certain soils and then only for a limited period. Drain to where? Do you have a ditch or pond? What is the soil? Why not hire in a mini digger, there must be lots laid up. regards -- Tim Lamb |
#45
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
On Feb 2, 7:21 pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: Roger Chapman wrote: JimK wrote: On Feb 2, 12:56 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: Given that the average air temp in the UK appears similar to the ground temp how much extra does a GSHP save over an ASHP? I was toying with the idea but I would need a bore hole for a GSHP and they are not cheap. Also as the heat for the GSHP is actually solar there must be a problem replacing the heat in the bore hole if the neighbours also decide to drill them, there isn't enough land in the cities to absorbed the solar radiation needed. Ground temperatures are much more even than air temperatures and the deeper you go the more constant the temperature. so are you saying the deeper you drill the colder it gets? The deeper you go the warmer it gets but ISTR TNT saying here quite recently that the major source of near surface heating is solar. It is..but even so in winter, the deeper the warmer. Average UK temps and that reflects the subsoil, are about 9C. Go deep enough and thats what you find. Hence the need for a s deep a pipe run as is practicable with a digger. Generally a couple of meters max. or a borehole? JimK |
#46
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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ground source heating
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
snip On a connected topic there is a particular form of plough used to make a form of land drain. Can anyone tell me what it is called please. We have a very boggy hollow that really needs draining presumably because the land drain has collapsed. I can't find the actually drain but even if I could I lack the resolve to dig out and rebuild what might be as much as 100 yards of drain having spent a couple of weeks last Autumn on a section less than 15 yards long. Mire a 3 ton digger and do in in a couple of amusing days. I have an old mini digger so I suppose I could dig it out but making good would still be hard work and the volume of water doesn't really deserve much in the way of a drain. |
#47
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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ground source heating
JimK wrote:
snip On a connected topic there is a particular form of plough used to make a form of land drain. Can anyone tell me what it is called please. We have a very boggy hollow that really needs draining presumably because the land drain has collapsed. I can't find the actually drain but even if I could I lack the resolve to dig out and rebuild what might be as much as 100 yards of drain having spent a couple of weeks last Autumn on a section less than 15 yards long. are you trying to actually create a drain with this plough? or break up the so called "pan" between subsoil and topsoil with a "subsoiler" plough? The source of the water is only really a seep which is why I didn't manage to find where it has come from when I dug for it a year or two back. I was hoping than ploughing a 'molehole' would provide sufficient to drain a puddle than always forms in front of a particular gateway at the beginning of winter. Land drains in these parts consist of 2 walls about 6" apart and 6" high built of loose pieces of local stone covered by a selection of larger stones. The Romans built drains that way but considerably better constructed. Most around here are either collapsed or silted up, or even ploughed out when traditional grassland was ploughed up during WW2. |
#48
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
"Calvin Sambrook" wrote in message ... "dennis@home" wrote in message ... ... Also as the heat for the GSHP is actually solar there must be a problem replacing the heat in the bore hole if the neighbours also decide to drill them, there isn't enough land in the cities to absorbed the solar radiation needed. You're in good company with that sort of misconception. Darwin went to his grave struggling to reconcile his calculations for the age of the earth based on his theory of evolution with those of Fahrenheit (IIRC although it could well have been Kelvin, history was never my strong point) who calculated how hot the earth should be given that the only source of heat was the sun. Of course that was before anyone knew about radioactivity. In the case of GSHPs you're operating at a much smaller scale so you can't really consider the system as closed. Effectively you're sucking heat out of the earth but as there's an awful lot there in the first place you can consider it nearly infinite. That said, I did read recently about some town scale GSHP schemes (Southampton springs to mind) which will need to consider the cooling effect they will have on the ground as it will make their schemes less efficient over the decades. That's what I said, if the neighbours do the same the ground temp drops because there isn't an infinite heat source in the ground. |
#49
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
"dennis@home" wrote in message
... "Calvin Sambrook" wrote in message ... "dennis@home" wrote in message ... ... Also as the heat for the GSHP is actually solar there must be a problem replacing the heat in the bore hole if the neighbours also decide to drill them, there isn't enough land in the cities to absorbed the solar radiation needed. You're in good company with that sort of misconception. Darwin went to his grave struggling to reconcile his calculations for the age of the earth based on his theory of evolution with those of Fahrenheit (IIRC although it could well have been Kelvin, history was never my strong point) who calculated how hot the earth should be given that the only source of heat was the sun. Of course that was before anyone knew about radioactivity. In the case of GSHPs you're operating at a much smaller scale so you can't really consider the system as closed. Effectively you're sucking heat out of the earth but as there's an awful lot there in the first place you can consider it nearly infinite. That said, I did read recently about some town scale GSHP schemes (Southampton springs to mind) which will need to consider the cooling effect they will have on the ground as it will make their schemes less efficient over the decades. That's what I said, if the neighbours do the same the ground temp drops because there isn't an infinite heat source in the ground. Similar. The heat you're tapping into is mostly coming from underneath rather than from the sun. The problems being suggested for the town sized schemes have more to do with the rate of transfer of heat from the deeper earth rather than the quantity available. For your purposes it's pretty much infinite provided you go down far enough, which might only be a few metres anyway depending on conditions. Now things might get interesting way into the future when our civilisation approaches the boundary of what the theoretical physicist Karu calls "type 1 civilisations". At that point we would be able to extract *all* of the energy from the earth. We're quite some way off that though so I wouldn't fret just yet. |
#50
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
"Calvin Sambrook" wrote in message ... That's what I said, if the neighbours do the same the ground temp drops because there isn't an infinite heat source in the ground. Similar. The heat you're tapping into is mostly coming from underneath rather than from the sun. The problems being suggested for the town sized schemes have more to do with the rate of transfer of heat from the deeper earth rather than the quantity available. For your purposes it's pretty much infinite provided you go down far enough, which might only be a few metres anyway depending on conditions. I doubt if I could go deep enough to find any geologically active bits around here and the heat coming up from the core is not significant AFAIK. |
#51
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
JimK wrote:
On Feb 2, 7:21 pm, The Natural Philosopher wrote: Roger Chapman wrote: JimK wrote: On Feb 2, 12:56 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: Given that the average air temp in the UK appears similar to the ground temp how much extra does a GSHP save over an ASHP? I was toying with the idea but I would need a bore hole for a GSHP and they are not cheap. Also as the heat for the GSHP is actually solar there must be a problem replacing the heat in the bore hole if the neighbours also decide to drill them, there isn't enough land in the cities to absorbed the solar radiation needed. Ground temperatures are much more even than air temperatures and the deeper you go the more constant the temperature. so are you saying the deeper you drill the colder it gets? The deeper you go the warmer it gets but ISTR TNT saying here quite recently that the major source of near surface heating is solar. It is..but even so in winter, the deeper the warmer. Average UK temps and that reflects the subsoil, are about 9C. Go deep enough and thats what you find. Hence the need for a s deep a pipe run as is practicable with a digger. Generally a couple of meters max. or a borehole? good, but expensive. JimK |
#52
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ground source heating
Roger Chapman wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote: snip On a connected topic there is a particular form of plough used to make a form of land drain. Can anyone tell me what it is called please. We have a very boggy hollow that really needs draining presumably because the land drain has collapsed. I can't find the actually drain but even if I could I lack the resolve to dig out and rebuild what might be as much as 100 yards of drain having spent a couple of weeks last Autumn on a section less than 15 yards long. Mire a 3 ton digger and do in in a couple of amusing days. I have an old mini digger so I suppose I could dig it out but making good would still be hard work and the volume of water doesn't really deserve much in the way of a drain. well just fill it with hardcore, topsoil over, and let the water run underneath it all. That's how this garden works. |
#53
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ground source heating
Tim Lamb wrote:
snip IIRC moles can't get down to the sort of depth really needed for heat pumping but I would be glad to be proved wrong even though the back lift on my neighbours tractor doesn't work properly so I would have to hire the equipment to do it. I would expect to get between 2 and 3 feet. The water table is at about 18" during the Winter. I have an old single leg subsoiler which can be fitted with a short length of 2" steel pipe to form the hole for the collector pipe. The usual trick is to run the subsoiler through the ground first to check for obstructions and then couple up the pipe for the pull. On a connected topic there is a particular form of plough used to make a form of land drain. Can anyone tell me what it is called please. We have a very boggy hollow that really needs draining presumably because the land drain has collapsed. I can't find the actually drain but even if I could I lack the resolve to dig out and rebuild what might be as much as 100 yards of drain having spent a couple of weeks last Autumn on a section less than 15 yards long. Try mole plough:-) Lots of horsepower needed to pull one. AFAIK mole drains only work in certain soils and then only for a limited period. Drain to where? Do you have a ditch or pond? What is the soil? Why not hire in a mini digger, there must be lots laid up. The soil is far from ideal. Mostly hard clay with stone inclusions but with some soft spots in unexpected places. The shortest route to open water (a once culverted stream) is probably less than 100 yards but that might be slightly uphill and in any case somewhere close to the stream is the mains water supply to an isolated house which was allegedly moled in long before I moved here in 1978. I don't know how deep that is but I suspect it is fairly close to the surface. |
#54
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
dennis@home wrote:
"Calvin Sambrook" wrote in message ... That's what I said, if the neighbours do the same the ground temp drops because there isn't an infinite heat source in the ground. Similar. The heat you're tapping into is mostly coming from underneath rather than from the sun. The problems being suggested for the town sized schemes have more to do with the rate of transfer of heat from the deeper earth rather than the quantity available. For your purposes it's pretty much infinite provided you go down far enough, which might only be a few metres anyway depending on conditions. I doubt if I could go deep enough to find any geologically active bits around here and the heat coming up from the core is not significant AFAIK. You don't have to find geologically active bits dennis. Go down any coal mine - below a mile its about 30C plus This is a well written article IMHO http://www.gecco2.com/consultant/gec...ce-energy.aspx |
#55
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
Calvin Sambrook wrote:
You're in good company with that sort of misconception. Â*Darwin went to his grave struggling to reconcile his calculations for the age of the earth based on his theory of evolution with those of Fahrenheit (IIRC although it could well have been Kelvin, It was Lord Kelvin AJH |
#56
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Go down any coal mine - below a mile its about 30C plus How many Watts/m2? I've a well in the garden but I suspect I'd freeze it if I took more than a few hundred Watts out of it. So how deep a borehole to get 5kW out? AJH |
#57
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
andrew wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote: Go down any coal mine - below a mile its about 30C plus How many Watts/m2? I've a well in the garden but I suspect I'd freeze it if I took more than a few hundred Watts out of it. So how deep a borehole to get 5kW out? wrong question. but you can get 5kW out of about 200m of subsoil, so try 200m. Not deepo enough to have serous geothermal heating tho. ideal house. Insulation barrier and 'cold room' cellar underneath. freeze the **** out of it and pump the heat from uninsulated walls in contact with the subsoil. If you have a cellar, tank it, fill with water and put a coil in that. AJH |
#58
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... You don't have to find geologically active bits dennis. Go down any coal mine - below a mile its about 30C plus Does not compute.. go down a cave, its nowhere near 30C. Mines have stuff in them that warms them up, people, machines, etc. Even if it did I have no chance of boring down 1700 m. This is a well written article IMHO http://www.gecco2.com/consultant/gec...ce-energy.aspx Well it is well written and agrees with what I said "Ground Source Energy is latent heat within the top 100m or so of the earths surface which is generated and replenished from the sun. " A bore hole will only work as long as the neighbours don't get the same idea as there isn't enough spacing between the homes for the sun to replace the heat. |
#59
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ground source heating
In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes If I ever get round to GSHP using buried pipe I will try to *mole* it in rather than trench. Subsoils here are clays and gravel and I have pulled 50m lengths of blue poly for water supplies without problems. I like the manifold idea as pulling loops with more than two legs would be difficult. Luckily the *moles* will fill with water so there is no lack of contact. you hope. here they use moles to drain fields ;-) I know:-) This is flood plain land. Historically, the Lea valley was used for water cress production. Ditches were dug at the edge of the flood plain, presumably to intercept clean spring water from the valley sides. The strip I have in mind is sandwiched between the ditch and the river. Meanders will have deposited permeable gravels through the subsoils and any hole deeper than 18" in winter contains water. I assume there will be convection/mingling of underground water allowing heat extraction from shallow pipes. Trenching would be problematic and the EA have an input to *works* within 8m of the bank. As an aside of the deep well system... the danger of linking two or more underground water bodies was mentioned in my original discussion. I suppose they are concerned that a new well might put contaminated water in contact with drinking water supplies. regards -- Tim Lamb |
#60
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ground source heating
On 30 Jan, 18:36, "Stewart" wrote:
My son will soon be building a new house and intends to install a ground source heat pump, hopefully as a main source of hear in conjunction with solar panels. He will be location the underground pipework in a pond beside the house. The pond may be about 150 metres by 50 metres by 1.5 metres deep; it is in Perthshire. Does amyone have experience of ground source heating? *How effective is it? Can it ever act even for a short while as the primary heat source? Is there an independant body that would give professional advice? Thank you. Dear Stewart I recommend that your son (and you?) knuckle down to some serious reading and study. I know FA about this apart from O level physics from about 1962! I spent about 3 months studying and reading it up in order to be in a position to judge the snake oil salesmen I came across selling heat pumps. I looked at the whole range. I made the serious mistake of listening to a firm called Ice Energy who entered into a contract to survey my site and whose final work did not comply with the contract to survey and whose service fell below what a reasonable lay man would call "fit for purpose". It cost me £500 and my suggestion that they pay some of it back (some because not all of their work was unfit for the purpose) has fallen on deaf ears. I eventually designed my own system which has proven to be efficient in practice. I opted for a straight line style of collector as this from simple physics is the most efficient COLLECTOR per metre run. If you have a pond then that is probably the best possible source of collection but for my money I would put it in the ground just a few inches under the soil at the bottom of the pond. You will get the neat transfer with no complications of needing to take it out when / if you have to drain the pond or clean out the base and less chance of damage. If I did my design again I would have knocked the house down (it was a refurb) and put in a foot of insulation a la ~Passivhaus. The need for a heat pump is largely eliminated but I would get one regardless but just the smallest one possible to heat up DHW I would also have a couple of buffers one for DHW one for Heating into each buffer I would have as many sensible sources as I could for input eg solar water (with a thermostatic switch to go from DHW to CH when DHW is up to temp Wind generation DC Heating element say 1.5 kw + AC input from the grid Gravity primary circulation from a wood burning/ multifuel? heater with a back boiler (will need to be near the buffer for gravity circulation) I would not bother with PV but would set aside a location for later installation when the price comes down http://cms.atics.co.uk/3/heatpump.html is a link where you can see quite a lot of the work I have done in the past Chris |
#61
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
dennis@home wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... You don't have to find geologically active bits dennis. Go down any coal mine - below a mile its about 30C plus Does not compute.. go down a cave, its nowhere near 30C. Have you been down a mile deep cave, Dennis.? I HAVE been down deep mines. I am not lying. Mines have stuff in them that warms them up, people, machines, etc. Oh really. Ypou mean that all that solid rock they are in contact with is a perfect insulator. Even if it did I have no chance of boring down 1700 m. This is a well written article IMHO http://www.gecco2.com/consultant/gec...ce-energy.aspx Well it is well written and agrees with what I said "Ground Source Energy is latent heat within the top 100m or so of the earths surface which is generated and replenished from the sun. " Read on. As you get deeper, the heat rises. Due to getting near the earth's core. You didnt bother to read hat bit though. I originally said, that the top 100 meters or so is more or less constant temperature from the median of the air temp. About 9C in this part of the world. Below that it gets hotter and hotter. A bore hole will only work as long as the neighbours don't get the same idea as there isn't enough spacing between the homes for the sun to replace the heat. more dickbrained half assed analsyis. |
#62
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ground source heating
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , The Natural Philosopher writes If I ever get round to GSHP using buried pipe I will try to *mole* it in rather than trench. Subsoils here are clays and gravel and I have pulled 50m lengths of blue poly for water supplies without problems. I like the manifold idea as pulling loops with more than two legs would be difficult. Luckily the *moles* will fill with water so there is no lack of contact. you hope. here they use moles to drain fields ;-) I know:-) This is flood plain land. Historically, the Lea valley was used for water cress production. Ditches were dug at the edge of the flood plain, presumably to intercept clean spring water from the valley sides. The strip I have in mind is sandwiched between the ditch and the river. Meanders will have deposited permeable gravels through the subsoils and any hole deeper than 18" in winter contains water. I assume there will be convection/mingling of underground water allowing heat extraction from shallow pipes. Trenching would be problematic and the EA have an input to *works* within 8m of the bank. As an aside of the deep well system... the danger of linking two or more underground water bodies was mentioned in my original discussion. I suppose they are concerned that a new well might put contaminated water in contact with drinking water supplies. regards That might work then. |
#63
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... dennis@home wrote: "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... You don't have to find geologically active bits dennis. Go down any coal mine - below a mile its about 30C plus Does not compute.. go down a cave, its nowhere near 30C. Have you been down a mile deep cave, Dennis.? I HAVE been down deep mines. I am not lying. No one said you were AFAICS. Mines have stuff in them that warms them up, people, machines, etc. Oh really. Ypou mean that all that solid rock they are in contact with is a perfect insulator. Even if it did I have no chance of boring down 1700 m. This is a well written article IMHO http://www.gecco2.com/consultant/gec...ce-energy.aspx Well it is well written and agrees with what I said "Ground Source Energy is latent heat within the top 100m or so of the earths surface which is generated and replenished from the sun. " Read on. As you get deeper, the heat rises. Due to getting near the earth's core. You didnt bother to read hat bit though. I originally said, that the top 100 meters or so is more or less constant temperature from the median of the air temp. About 9C in this part of the world. Below that it gets hotter and hotter. A bore hole will only work as long as the neighbours don't get the same idea as there isn't enough spacing between the homes for the sun to replace the heat. more dickbrained half assed analsyis. OK so explain where the extra energy is going to come from? You stated that it comes from the Sun. You posted a link that says the same. I happen to agree. So if the housing density is high as it is here just explain where the energy is going to come from if there are suddenly a lot of bore holes sucking heat out of the ground. Just do the maths and state how many square meters of land are needed per dwelling if you are so certain you are right. As an approximation I will assume the 200m run of pipe work spaced no closer than 2m implies the experts think you need 400 m2. |
#64
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
On Feb 3, 1:29*pm, "dennis@home"
wrote: "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in ... dennis@home wrote: "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... You don't have to find geologically active bits dennis. Go down any coal mine - below a mile its about 30C plus Does not compute.. go down a cave, its nowhere near 30C. Have you been down a mile deep cave, Dennis.? I HAVE been down deep mines. I am not lying. No one said you were AFAICS. Mines have stuff in them that warms them up, people, machines, etc. Oh really. Ypou mean that all that solid rock they are in contact with is a perfect insulator. Even if it did I have no chance of boring down 1700 m. This is a well written article IMHO http://www.gecco2.com/consultant/gec...-source-energy.... Well it is well written and agrees with what I said "Ground Source Energy is latent heat within the top 100m or so of the earths surface which is generated and replenished from the sun. *" Read on. As you get deeper, the heat rises. Due to getting near the earth's core. You didnt bother to read hat bit though. I originally said, that the top 100 meters or so is more or less constant temperature from the median of the air temp. About 9C in this part of the world. Below that it gets hotter and hotter. A bore hole will only work as long as the neighbours don't get the same idea as there isn't enough spacing between the homes for the sun to replace the heat. more dickbrained half assed analsyis. OK so explain where the extra energy is going to come from? You stated that it comes from the Sun. You posted a link that says the same. I happen to agree. So if the housing density is high as it is here just explain where the energy is going to come from if there are suddenly a lot of bore holes sucking heat out of the ground. Just do the maths and state how many square meters of land are needed per dwelling if you are so certain you are right. As an approximation I will assume the 200m run of pipe work spaced no closer than 2m implies the experts think you need 400 m2. That's not a "bore hole", FFS. MBQ |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
"Man at B&Q" wrote in message ... MBQ Sod off you are about as useful as drivel. |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
On Feb 3, 2:15*pm, "dennis@home"
wrote: As an approximation I will assume the . That's not a "bore hole", FFS. MBQ Sod off you are about as useful as drivel. I'm beginning to think you ARE Drivel, or a close relation. A "bore hole" GSHP is a vertical system, probably a sq m or two all in surface area. Not "200m run of pipe work spaced no closer than 2m implies the experts think you need 400 m2" If you don't like being corrected, don't post crap in the first place. MBQ |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
"Man at B&Q" wrote in message ... On Feb 3, 2:15 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: As an approximation I will assume the . That's not a "bore hole", FFS. MBQ Sod off you are about as useful as drivel. I'm beginning to think you ARE Drivel, or a close relation. A "bore hole" GSHP is a vertical system, probably a sq m or two all in surface area. Not "200m run of pipe work spaced no closer than 2m implies the experts think you need 400 m2" So you think its going to get all its solar energy out of a 4 m2 space, you really are being stupid. If you don't like being corrected, don't post crap in the first place. Don't start arguing again I don't like having to call you stupid and I like it even less when you are so obviously stupid. |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
dennis@home wrote:
So you think its going to get all its solar energy out of a 4 m2 space, you really are being stupid. Apparently the earth's core shoves about about 4x10^13W and is about 5x10^14 square metres. About 0.1W / square metre. It better be insolation... However you can get it from your neighbour's gardens and ground water - unless you all start doing it. Now how's about this idea: Get yourself a water-cooled generator. Feed the coolant into your heating system, motor will run happily with coolant around boiling so that's easy. That's maybe a third of your energy with conventional CHP. Another third comes out as mechanical energy, you can run a heat pump with that or make electricity and use that. Again, conventional CHP. The last third comes out as the hot exhaust. Why not blow that on the cold end of a heat pump? Take it down to near freezing and you've even got most of the latent heat of condensation from the water. Andy |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
On Feb 3, 8:00*pm, "dennis@home"
wrote: "Man at B&Q" wrote in ... On Feb 3, 2:15 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: As an approximation I will assume the . That's not a "bore hole", FFS. MBQ Sod off you are about as useful as drivel. I'm beginning to think you ARE Drivel, or a close relation. A "bore hole" GSHP is a vertical system, probably a sq m or two all in surface area. Not "200m run of pipe work spaced no closer than 2m implies the experts think you need 400 m2" So you think its going to get all its solar energy out of a 4 m2 space, you really are being stupid. A *BORE HOLE* goes deep enough not require recharging from solar energy. A system of pipe laid out over a large area may well require solar recharging, I leave that to others. You seem unable to distinguish between the two. If you don't like being corrected, don't post crap in the first place. Don't start arguing again I don't like having to call you stupid and I like It takes two to argue. it even less when you are so obviously stupid. Kettle, pot, black. MBQ |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
"Man at B&Q" wrote in message ... On Feb 3, 8:00 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: "Man at B&Q" wrote in ... On Feb 3, 2:15 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: As an approximation I will assume the . That's not a "bore hole", FFS. MBQ Sod off you are about as useful as drivel. I'm beginning to think you ARE Drivel, or a close relation. A "bore hole" GSHP is a vertical system, probably a sq m or two all in surface area. Not "200m run of pipe work spaced no closer than 2m implies the experts think you need 400 m2" So you think its going to get all its solar energy out of a 4 m2 space, you really are being stupid. A *BORE HOLE* goes deep enough not require recharging from solar energy. Balls. A 200m borehole is not deep enough to tap into geothermal energy in the UK. Try posting to alt.iceland.D-I-Y. A system of pipe laid out over a large area may well require solar recharging, I leave that to others. You seem unable to distinguish between the two. You obviously can't so don't waste peoples time. |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
Andy Champ wrote:
Get yourself a water-cooled generator. Â*Feed the coolant into your heating system, motor will run happily with coolant around boiling so that's easy. Â*That's maybe a third of your energy with conventional CHP. Another third comes out as mechanical energy, you can run a heat pump with that or make electricity and use that. Â*Again, conventional CHP. The last third comes out as the hot exhaust. 10 years ago we had a 3 cylinder Lister with an asynchronous (capacitively excited) 10kVA genset. We achieved around 20% conversion of fuel to electricity. In those days the fuel cost/kWhr was about the same as grid electricity/kWhr, now it's double. We reckoned 33% waste heat to coolant 66% to exhaust, the 33% was enough for our purposes. The big problem that hit conversion efficiency was sizing the genset for the peak load and only averaging about 20% of that. I'd do it differently now. The O+M costs of running 2000+ hours/year aren't insignificant nor the capital depreciation on GBP4000 genset cost then. AJH |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
dennis@home wrote:
"Man at B&Q" wrote in message ... On Feb 3, 2:15 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: As an approximation I will assume the . That's not a "bore hole", FFS. MBQ Sod off you are about as useful as drivel. I'm beginning to think you ARE Drivel, or a close relation. A "bore hole" GSHP is a vertical system, probably a sq m or two all in surface area. Not "200m run of pipe work spaced no closer than 2m implies the experts think you need 400 m2" So you think its going to get all its solar energy out of a 4 m2 space, you really are being stupid. But the solar energy comes from the whole area..each persons house occupies a LOT more than that area. more than enough for the average household as it happens. If mutiplied by 50% (pump factor) and if taken as an average. average insolation is about 100W/sq meter. Over the year. Typical outside temps are an average of 9C, so for say 19C indoors, that's a 10C drop. Taking a smallish house as a cube of say 100 sq meters floor area, total external area is 600 sq meters. That will in some way be warming the ground it stands on at a rate of 10,000W - 10KW average. so to achieve thermal balance we need a U value of 10000/600 divided by 10 degrees C. about about 1.6 or so. Well within current standards. Ergo a house receives enough solar energy to completely heat it. Provided that the ground under it gets the benefit of that warmth in summer, and its pumped out again in winter. If you don't like being corrected, don't post crap in the first place. Don't start arguing again I don't like having to call you stupid and I like it even less when you are so obviously stupid. |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
dennis@home wrote:
"Man at B&Q" wrote in message ... On Feb 3, 8:00 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: "Man at B&Q" wrote in ... On Feb 3, 2:15 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: As an approximation I will assume the . That's not a "bore hole", FFS. MBQ Sod off you are about as useful as drivel. I'm beginning to think you ARE Drivel, or a close relation. A "bore hole" GSHP is a vertical system, probably a sq m or two all in surface area. Not "200m run of pipe work spaced no closer than 2m implies the experts think you need 400 m2" So you think its going to get all its solar energy out of a 4 m2 space, you really are being stupid. A *BORE HOLE* goes deep enough not require recharging from solar energy. Balls. A 200m borehole is not deep enough to tap into geothermal energy in the UK. Try posting to alt.iceland.D-I-Y. That is irrelevant. The borehole taps stored heat from the whole mass surrounding it. Essentially what counts is how much area of ground it 'has to itself. It cant be smaller than the plot of land the house stands on, and as I have shown, that's adequate to heat the subsoil more than enough in the summer. A system of pipe laid out over a large area may well require solar recharging, I leave that to others. You seem unable to distinguish between the two. You obviously can't so don't waste peoples time. when the blind lead the blind, they both shall fall into a ditch. If you examine the numbers you find out what GSHP works, and solar panels dont. The solar panel collects from at best a few square meters. The GSHP, even in a borehole scenario, collects from several hundreds. |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... dennis@home wrote: "Man at B&Q" wrote in message ... On Feb 3, 8:00 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: "Man at B&Q" wrote in ... On Feb 3, 2:15 pm, "dennis@home" wrote: As an approximation I will assume the . That's not a "bore hole", FFS. MBQ Sod off you are about as useful as drivel. I'm beginning to think you ARE Drivel, or a close relation. A "bore hole" GSHP is a vertical system, probably a sq m or two all in surface area. Not "200m run of pipe work spaced no closer than 2m implies the experts think you need 400 m2" So you think its going to get all its solar energy out of a 4 m2 space, you really are being stupid. A *BORE HOLE* goes deep enough not require recharging from solar energy. Balls. A 200m borehole is not deep enough to tap into geothermal energy in the UK. Try posting to alt.iceland.D-I-Y. That is irrelevant. The borehole taps stored heat from the whole mass surrounding it. Essentially what counts is how much area of ground it 'has to itself. It cant be smaller than the plot of land the house stands on, and as I have shown, that's adequate to heat the subsoil more than enough in the summer. No you haven't. You have quoted a load of guff that is inconstant with the stuff you have previously quoted. You even invented some sort of irrelevant cube to create a bigger m2 figure in the hope we wouldn't notice. If the land area was enough I wouldn't need a bore hole and all the companies say I do. A bore hole is just a way of "stealing" some of the heat from the neighbours AFAICS and will soon cause trouble if everyone does. The only way I can see a bore hole working well is if I use active cooling in the summer and shove the heat back down the hole. A system of pipe laid out over a large area may well require solar recharging, I leave that to others. You seem unable to distinguish between the two. You obviously can't so don't waste peoples time. when the blind lead the blind, they both shall fall into a ditch. If you examine the numbers you find out what GSHP works, and solar panels dont. I have examined the numbers and someone is making them up. You either need the area to put the collectors in or you don't, there is no magical increase in available area just because you sink a borehole. I have no doubt that boreholes work ATM, they are few and very far between, however its a lot of cash to put down a hole only to find that the neighbours all do the same and make it not work in twenty years time. The solar panel collects from at best a few square meters. The GSHP, even in a borehole scenario, collects from several hundreds. |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
dennis@home wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... You don't have to find geologically active bits dennis. Go down any coal mine - below a mile its about 30C plus Does not compute.. go down a cave, its nowhere near 30C. Mines have stuff in them that warms them up, people, machines, etc. I am intrigued. Caves with a vertical depth of more than a mile, where in the world is that? But perhaps more pertinent to temperature at depth where in the world will you find an unflooded cave below local sea level let alone a mile below. |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
Roger Chapman wrote:
dennis@home wrote: "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... You don't have to find geologically active bits dennis. Go down any coal mine - below a mile its about 30C plus Does not compute.. go down a cave, its nowhere near 30C. Mines have stuff in them that warms them up, people, machines, etc. I am intrigued. Caves with a vertical depth of more than a mile, where in the world is that? But perhaps more pertinent to temperature at depth where in the world will you find an unflooded cave below local sea level let alone a mile below. fascinating article here. http://www.eoearth.org/article/The_C...of_Coal_Mining At a mile below ground, temps of 120F. |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
On Thu, 04 Feb 2010 09:04:38 +0000, Roger Chapman
wrote: I am intrigued. Caves with a vertical depth of more than a mile, where in the world is that? http://www.environmentalgraffiti.com...pest-caves-in- the-world/1185 http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/ng...re4/learn.html Seems there are quite a few with that sort of depth but it probably isn't in a continuous vertical drop. The South African diamond and gold mines are 3.5km deep and are heading for 5km at such depths the temp is 70C... http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2003/YefimCavalier.shtml But perhaps more pertinent to temperature at depth where in the world will you find an unflooded cave below local sea level let alone a mile below. Donno if the deepest caves listed above go below sea level or not but don't forget the heat will tend to be the same at the same depth from the surface (assuming the mantle is at the same depth). -- Cheers Dave. |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
On Wed, 03 Feb 2010 23:22:06 +0000, andrew wrote:
The big problem that hit conversion efficiency was sizing the genset for the peak load and only averaging about 20% of that. Our absloute peak load is just over 7kW at breakfast with a ring on for porridge, grill on for toast, kettle on for tea and coffee machine on for coffee. Our base load is about 1kW or 15% ish. Most other peaks are around 3kW from the kettle they could be knocked back by not having a rapid boil kettle of course. I'd do it differently now. Would that be a battery bank and 10kW invertor to meet the peaks with a smaller set to provide base load and top the batteries up? -- Cheers Dave. |
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OT air sourced heating. was ground source heating
"Roger Chapman" wrote in message ... dennis@home wrote: "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... You don't have to find geologically active bits dennis. Go down any coal mine - below a mile its about 30C plus Does not compute.. go down a cave, its nowhere near 30C. Mines have stuff in them that warms them up, people, machines, etc. I am intrigued. Caves with a vertical depth of more than a mile, where in the world is that? But perhaps more pertinent to temperature at depth where in the world will you find an unflooded cave below local sea level let alone a mile below. There are a few about, but its not really relevant.. mines are hot because of the mining that goes on. It takes a lot of energy to mine and it heats up the mines a lot. However I don't have a mine to extract the waste heat from, just some land which isn't enough or a bore hole if I can be sure it will still be working in 20 years time or use air which is what the original question was.. how do air sourced heat pumps compare to ground sourced ones? |
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