Hi,

I have a house full of steal window frames that have badly corroded
bottom sections.

I've repaired one by drilling through the surrounding wooden fame on
the lower corners and then cutting upwards using a hacksaw blade. I
then replaced the bottom section with teak strip & isopon. After
painting it looks great.

My problem is that cutting the frame by hand took over an hour - and
the rest of the week for my hand to recover.

I was thinking of buying a reciprocating saw but I would need one with
a long and quite thin blade.

Can anyone advise me if this would be is a good idea and if so suggest
a suitable saw, or suggest other ways of doing it.

Thanks Steve.

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
wrote:

My problem is that cutting the frame by hand took over an hour - and
the rest of the week for my hand to recover.

I was thinking of buying a reciprocating saw but I would need one with
a long and quite thin blade.

8" blades are commonly available - and unlike a hand hack saw do not
require the saw frame to support it at the far end.

The favoured tool for window frame removers everywhere! ;-)

Can anyone advise me if this would be is a good idea and if so suggest
a suitable saw, or suggest other ways of doing it.

Go for one that takes generic blades rather than a proprietary one. Avoid
things like the B&D piranah.

More info:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/recipsaw.htm


You could probably also do a more delicate, if slower, job with the Fein or
Bosch multimaster thingy

On Sep 22, 8:52*pm, "newshound" wrote:
You could probably also do a more delicate, if slower, job with the Fein or
Bosch multimaster thingy- Hide quoted text -

True, but beware the blade life & cost.
They are fantastic tools, but they can eat money if not careful.

For vertical cutting floorboards and such like they are perfection,
compared to the nasty habit of wrecking bar and smashed T&G that seems
all to common with resulting "trampoline" effect. Ruddy funny when
someone walks on one end and the other end rises up just stopping
short of someone's face whilst bent over painting the skirting.

js.b1 wrote:
On Sep 22, 8:52 pm, "newshound" wrote:
You could probably also do a more delicate, if slower, job with the
Fein or Bosch multimaster thingy- Hide quoted text -

True, but beware the blade life & cost.
They are fantastic tools, but they can eat money if not careful.

Agreed. Blades for the Bosch are dear enough, Fein blades require a
mortgage. Reserved for 'no other way' jobs.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 23 Sep, 00:31, "js.b1" wrote:


Ruddy funny when
someone walks on one end and the other end rises up just stopping
short of someone's face whilst bent over painting the skirting.

Even funnier when it doesn't stop just short!

On 21 Sep, 15:49, "
wrote:
Hi,

I have a house full of steal window frames that have badly corroded
bottom sections.

I've repaired one by drilling through the surrounding wooden fame on
the lower corners and then cutting upwards using a hacksaw blade. I
then replaced the bottom section with teak strip & isopon. After
painting it looks great.

My problem is that cutting the frame by hand took over an hour - and
the rest of the week for my hand to recover.

I was thinking of buying a reciprocating saw but I would need one with
a long and quite thin blade.

Can anyone advise me if this would be is a good idea and if so suggest
a suitable saw, or suggest other ways of doing it.

Thanks Steve.

Use a Cut Saw (sabre)
blades up to 300 long for wood and cirac 150 for metal but no reason
why you cannot adapt a hack saw blade if you have the right tools to
deal with hardened steel
personally I would just buy the bi metallic ones for a one off job
You will never regret buying the tool

Chris