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Default Sash replacement--what about bottom of frames?

We're thinking of replacing the double-hung windows in our 1930s house
with Marvin Tilt-Pac sash replacements, since the frames are in good
shape. My only real worry is whether the seal will be tight at the
bottom, where the new sash meets the bottom of the original frame. The
bottom of the frame has peeling paint, etc., and I can't imagine that
even if we sand and re-paint the frame bottom, it will provide a good
seal when the new sash is closed. Has anyone had experience with Marvin
Tilt Pacs who can advise on this issue? (I have received one response
on this issue on another board, saying that the bottom has a flexible
seal; I wonder if anyone has a close-up picture of this?)

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D. Gerasimatos
 
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In article .com,
wrote:

We're thinking of replacing the double-hung windows in our 1930s house
with Marvin Tilt-Pac sash replacements, since the frames are in good
shape. My only real worry is whether the seal will be tight at the
bottom, where the new sash meets the bottom of the original frame. The
bottom of the frame has peeling paint, etc., and I can't imagine that
even if we sand and re-paint the frame bottom, it will provide a good
seal when the new sash is closed. Has anyone had experience with Marvin
Tilt Pacs who can advise on this issue? (I have received one response
on this issue on another board, saying that the bottom has a flexible
seal; I wonder if anyone has a close-up picture of this?)



Does it really matter? I mean, the current windows probably don't seal
either. You can use weatherstripping if you really want to.


Rant:

I don't understand this fascination with hermetically sealed houses. I'm
surprised more people aren't filling in their windows with insulation
and dry-walling over them. They'd really be airtight and have a high
R-value then!


Dimitri

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Well, the fact that the current windows don't seal is precisely why we
want new ones. No, we don't have or want a hermetically sealed house;
it's a 1930s creaky old house, with lots of drafts. We're just trying
to cut down on the drafts so we don't pay so much in heating bills and
the house can be more comfortable in winter. Also, we want to be able
to raise and lower our windows without a can of WD40.

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D. Gerasimatos
 
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In article .com,
wrote:

Well, the fact that the current windows don't seal is precisely why we
want new ones.



Then I think the solution is to buy ugly new windows with plastic and
vinyl everywhere. Even some wood windows (Pella) have vinyl tracks
to seal the windows. I personally think it looks awful. It's a choice
between aesthetics and function. I think once you go down the function
route you may as well drywall in the windows, since they exist for
aesthetic reasons.


Anyway, why not weatherstrip? Another idea: call Marvin and ask them.


Dimitri

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Betsy
 
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Most likely there is a big rubber gasket down there at the bottom.

I've never used Marvin, but have used Pozzi (now Jeld-Wen) and they work
great!

wrote in message
oups.com...
We're thinking of replacing the double-hung windows in our 1930s house
with Marvin Tilt-Pac sash replacements, since the frames are in good
shape. My only real worry is whether the seal will be tight at the
bottom, where the new sash meets the bottom of the original frame. The
bottom of the frame has peeling paint, etc., and I can't imagine that
even if we sand and re-paint the frame bottom, it will provide a good
seal when the new sash is closed. Has anyone had experience with Marvin
Tilt Pacs who can advise on this issue? (I have received one response
on this issue on another board, saying that the bottom has a flexible
seal; I wonder if anyone has a close-up picture of this?)



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