Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? They look a mite tricky to control?

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065

Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 17 Aug, 22:31, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? *Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? *They look a mite tricky to control?

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortarhttp://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Builders+Tools/Pointing+Gu...

Are these any good? *Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).

Save yer dosh, Medders;
Step 1: Extend forefinger;
Step 2: Fold down all other fingers towards palm;
Step 3: Tuck thumb over joints in folded middle finger;
Step 4: Align tip of extended forefinger with item to be indicated.
Right, that's pointing, next week...tile cutting - we'll cover all
aspects of ignoring all types of tile.

Lino expert wrote:
On 17 Aug, 22:31, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I
assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it?
Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? They look a mite tricky to control?

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for
mortarhttp://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Builders+Tools/Pointing+Gu...

Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which
was
useless (I know its for a different application).

Save yer dosh, Medders;
Step 1: Extend forefinger;
Step 2: Fold down all other fingers towards palm;
Step 3: Tuck thumb over joints in folded middle finger;
Step 4: Align tip of extended forefinger with item to be indicated.
Right, that's pointing, next week...tile cutting - we'll cover all
aspects of ignoring all types of tile.

depressed handyman retires to darkened room


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In message
,
Lino expert writes
On 17 Aug, 22:31, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? *Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? *They look a mite tricky to control?

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for
mortarhttp://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Builders+Tools/Pointin
g+Gu...

Are these any good? *Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).

Save yer dosh, Medders;
Step 1: Extend forefinger;
Step 2: Fold down all other fingers towards palm;
Step 3: Tuck thumb over joints in folded middle finger;
Step 4: Align tip of extended forefinger with item to be indicated.

Try that in Chatham and someone would nut you


--
geoff

In article ,
"The Medway Handyman" writes:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? They look a mite tricky to control?

I've used them very effectively. You probably want to buy a bag of
sturdy masonary pins to use as replacement nails too. (Actually,
it's a toss-up if ordinary nails which wear quickly, or masonary
pins which wear slowly but tend to snap in half when fitting, are
most cost effective.) Only thing to be careful of is the nail
coming out of the line of pointing and gouging a line across a
soft facing brick.

Also, don't be tempted to go too deep. Half inch max. The object
is to replace the weathered edge of the pointing, and not to try
rebuilding the wall whilst it's standing (and sometimes softer
mortar was used to build the wall than to point it up anyway).
If the old pointing doesn't come out easily, it probably doesn't
need replacing.

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065

Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).

I would strongly suggest learning how to do it properly. Do you
know anyone local who can show you? It's not difficult, but it's
something you really need to see and feel being done, and not
just read about.

--
Andrew Gabriel

In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I would strongly suggest learning how to do it properly. Do you
know anyone local who can show you? It's not difficult, but it's
something you really need to see and feel being done, and not
just read about.

Yes - it's one of those skills you can develop your own technique for -
after seeing how others do it.

--
*Many people quit looking for work when they find a job *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I would strongly suggest learning how to do it properly. Do you
know anyone local who can show you? It's not difficult, but it's
something you really need to see and feel being done, and not
just read about.

Dave
I am that man. I was shown how to do repointing by a builder when I
had my first house and had to repoint the chimney. As others have said
don't worry too much about getting all the old cack out, just the
loose bits. The way I was shown was to use the pointing trowel and get
a small triangular fillet of mortar onto the back. I use a homemade
mortar board to hold a big blob of mortar. The fillet of mortar is
then pushed into the gap. Once you have filled a long length you then
need to finish the pointing. This is a good link that shows the
different types.
http://diydata.com/techniques/brickw...g/pointing.php
I have always used the 'hollow key' method, although I will have to
admit I didn't know it was called that.
I have done this by using a short length of hose to do the finish.
I will happily give you a demo, just give me a call over the weekend.

Tim

In article
,
Tim Decker wrote:
I have done this by using a short length of hose to do the finish.

T'was always a bucket handle in my day. ;-)

But that sort of finish doesn't look good on many older houses. Raised
does.

Which needs a deal of skill/practise.

--
*The longest recorded flightof a chicken is thirteen seconds *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 19 Aug, 11:23, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
* *Tim Decker wrote:

I have done this by using a short length of hose to do the finish.

T'was always a bucket handle in my day. ;-)

*But that sort of finish doesn't look good on many older houses. Raised
does.

*Which needs a deal of skill/practise.
Whilst raised might look better, a rounded joint will still look
better than a load of flaking fallen out pointing and will certainly
provide protection. When I did this the first time it was on a
chimney, so the absence of mortar was far more noticeable.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

But that sort of finish doesn't look good on many older houses. Raised
does.

Presuming that you mean "strap" pointing (a) it looks like **** and (b)
it's out of place on older houses. There's also (c) it damages the
brickwork.

In article ,
Steve Firth wrote:
But that sort of finish doesn't look good on many older houses. Raised
does.

Presuming that you mean "strap" pointing (a) it looks like **** and (b)
it's out of place on older houses.

Think it's called 'tuck' pointing round here. And was standard practice
from new in Victorian times, but only to the front of the house.

There's also (c) it damages the
brickwork.

Mine seems to have survived rather well in over 100 years. Seen plenty of
newer houses with spalling bricks. But a different type of brick, usually.

On much older houses the concave pointing would be wrong too - as it sort
of depends on having perfectly uniform bricks and bricklaying.

--
*Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Aug 17, 10:31*pm, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? *Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? *They look a mite tricky to control?

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortarhttp://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Builders+Tools/Pointing+Gu...

Are these any good? *Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).

How do you propose to get the edge of the brick clear with a nail on
wheels? Or maybe you wont bother.


NT

In article ,
NT writes:
How do you propose to get the edge of the brick clear with a nail on
wheels? Or maybe you wont bother.

That's very easy - you run the nail along the brick edge.

--
Andrew Gabriel

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? They look a mite tricky to control?

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065

Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).



Tried both, and couldn't get on with them. I used a drill bit for the
mortar removal, which worked as well as anything for me. This kind of thing

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=56514

You can drill a hole and then drag it along at an angle. Bounces around
a bit but never goes out of control

On Tue, 18 Aug 2009 07:40:56 GMT, Stuart Noble wrote:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=56514

You can drill a hole and then drag it along at an angle. Bounces around
a bit but never goes out of control

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=129162

Wonder if that is a little easier to control than a drill? The depth
stop might be useful but will mask what the bit is doing to the brick
work... Also available in 8mm.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tue, 18 Aug 2009 10:28:03 +0100 (BST), Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Tue, 18 Aug 2009 07:40:56 GMT, Stuart Noble wrote:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=56514

You can drill a hole and then drag it along at an angle. Bounces around
a bit but never goes out of control

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=129162

Wonder if that is a little easier to control than a drill? The depth
stop might be useful but will mask what the bit is doing to the brick
work... Also available in 8mm.

and it uses an angle grinder!
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 18 Aug 2009 07:40:56 GMT, Stuart Noble wrote:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=56514
You can drill a hole and then drag it along at an angle. Bounces around
a bit but never goes out of control

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=129162

Wonder if that is a little easier to control than a drill? The depth
stop might be useful but will mask what the bit is doing to the brick
work... Also available in 8mm.


I think you might get a neck ache trying to see where the bit was
cutting. It's one of those tedious jobs where you need to find a
comfortable way of working, even if it doesn't seem the fastest way to
begin with

Dave Liquorice coughed up some electrons that declared:

On Tue, 18 Aug 2009 07:40:56 GMT, Stuart Noble wrote:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=56514

You can drill a hole and then drag it along at an angle. Bounces around
a bit but never goes out of control

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=129162

Wonder if that is a little easier to control than a drill? The depth
stop might be useful but will mask what the bit is doing to the brick
work... Also available in 8mm.


Although my drill runs a lot quieter than my angle grinder - the latter my
drive me (and the neighbours) mad after the 1st half hour!

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? They look a mite tricky to control?

My bricklayer reckons you should just put a screw in a piece of batten.
But that is assuming lime mortar which comes out quite easily.

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon,

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065

Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).



no they are crap (1), used be amateurs bodgers and h......
learn to do the job properly

1) for them to work at all the mortar needs to be far far to wet, and then
at best you can only do a bucket joint.**

\0

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon,

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065

Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).



video of someone using a mortar Gun
its ok with Lime, but Christ it would be an unimaginable mess with cement
mortar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgjxCcQ020M
\0

Mark wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon,

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065
Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).



video of someone using a mortar Gun
its ok with Lime, but Christ it would be an unimaginable mess with cement
mortar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgjxCcQ020M




That was certainly my experience

In article ,
dave writes:
On Thu, 27 Aug 2009 10:38:16 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Mark wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon,

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065
Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).

video of someone using a mortar Gun
its ok with Lime, but Christ it would be an unimaginable mess with cement
mortar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgjxCcQ020M

That was certainly my experience

Would you care to elaborate for folk like myself who don't know why?

Well, I haven't tried one, so I can only guess, but I can't
imagine mortar being sufficiently fluid to flow through the
device. Imagine trying to operate it full of dry sand for
starters -- I wouldn't expect that to work. If you make the
sand damp, it's even less fluid (i.e. you need wet sand to
make a sand-castle). If you add more water (ignoring for
the moment that it will be wrong proportion for a mortar),
then squeezing it will just squeeze out the excess water,
as sand doesn't actually dissolve in water.

So I'm left asking myself how on earth it could work?
Maybe if you mixed your mortar with ultra-fine sandpit sand?

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
dave writes:
On Thu, 27 Aug 2009 10:38:16 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Mark wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon,

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065
Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).
video of someone using a mortar Gun
its ok with Lime, but Christ it would be an unimaginable mess with cement
mortar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgjxCcQ020M
That was certainly my experience
Would you care to elaborate for folk like myself who don't know why?

Well, I haven't tried one, so I can only guess, but I can't
imagine mortar being sufficiently fluid to flow through the
device. Imagine trying to operate it full of dry sand for
starters -- I wouldn't expect that to work. If you make the
sand damp, it's even less fluid (i.e. you need wet sand to
make a sand-castle). If you add more water (ignoring for
the moment that it will be wrong proportion for a mortar),
then squeezing it will just squeeze out the excess water,
as sand doesn't actually dissolve in water.

So I'm left asking myself how on earth it could work?
Maybe if you mixed your mortar with ultra-fine sandpit sand?


I have tried one, and it progressively compacted the solids as you would
expect. IMO the only things suitable for such a device would be those
that normally come in a cartridge anyway, and they would be too sticky
to load manually.

Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:

I have tried one, and it progressively compacted the solids as you would
expect. IMO the only things suitable for such a device would be those
that normally come in a cartridge anyway, and they would be too sticky
to load manually.

I had a long look at those on the internet - I was wondering the same. Good
to have confirmation.

Gun delivery is certainly a good idea in principle - being able to inject a
fillet sized stripe direct to where it's needed without faffing.

But AFAICS, the only way this is actually going to work with with a pump and
a specially forumalated mix.

Some sort of electric gun (even something with a small battery drill on the
back) and a worm drive pump might work - thought I'd seen something like
that somewhere...

Tim

So I'm left asking myself how on earth it could work?
Maybe if you mixed your mortar with ultra-fine sandpit sand?

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]



See http://www.pointmaster.co.uk/how_to.html

Michael Shergold wrote:



So I'm left asking myself how on earth it could work?
Maybe if you mixed your mortar with ultra-fine sandpit sand?

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]



See http://www.pointmaster.co.uk/how_to.html

yes as i said originally,
the mortar mix is far far too wet, so it comes out like Diarrhea, it will
get all over the face of the bricks and will look like a dogs breakfast done
by an amateur.
and note they don't show it being used to actually do any pointing.