Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? They look a mite tricky to control?

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065

Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 17 Aug, 22:31, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? *Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? *They look a mite tricky to control?

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortarhttp://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Builders+Tools/Pointing+Gu...

Are these any good? *Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).

Save yer dosh, Medders;
Step 1: Extend forefinger;
Step 2: Fold down all other fingers towards palm;
Step 3: Tuck thumb over joints in folded middle finger;
Step 4: Align tip of extended forefinger with item to be indicated.
Right, that's pointing, next week...tile cutting - we'll cover all
aspects of ignoring all types of tile.

Lino expert wrote:
On 17 Aug, 22:31, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I
assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it?
Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? They look a mite tricky to control?

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for
mortarhttp://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Builders+Tools/Pointing+Gu...

Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which
was
useless (I know its for a different application).

Save yer dosh, Medders;
Step 1: Extend forefinger;
Step 2: Fold down all other fingers towards palm;
Step 3: Tuck thumb over joints in folded middle finger;
Step 4: Align tip of extended forefinger with item to be indicated.
Right, that's pointing, next week...tile cutting - we'll cover all
aspects of ignoring all types of tile.

depressed handyman retires to darkened room


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In message
,
Lino expert writes
On 17 Aug, 22:31, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? *Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? *They look a mite tricky to control?

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for
mortarhttp://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Builders+Tools/Pointin
g+Gu...

Are these any good? *Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).

Save yer dosh, Medders;
Step 1: Extend forefinger;
Step 2: Fold down all other fingers towards palm;
Step 3: Tuck thumb over joints in folded middle finger;
Step 4: Align tip of extended forefinger with item to be indicated.

Try that in Chatham and someone would nut you


--
geoff

In article ,
"The Medway Handyman" writes:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? They look a mite tricky to control?

I've used them very effectively. You probably want to buy a bag of
sturdy masonary pins to use as replacement nails too. (Actually,
it's a toss-up if ordinary nails which wear quickly, or masonary
pins which wear slowly but tend to snap in half when fitting, are
most cost effective.) Only thing to be careful of is the nail
coming out of the line of pointing and gouging a line across a
soft facing brick.

Also, don't be tempted to go too deep. Half inch max. The object
is to replace the weathered edge of the pointing, and not to try
rebuilding the wall whilst it's standing (and sometimes softer
mortar was used to build the wall than to point it up anyway).
If the old pointing doesn't come out easily, it probably doesn't
need replacing.

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065

Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).

I would strongly suggest learning how to do it properly. Do you
know anyone local who can show you? It's not difficult, but it's
something you really need to see and feel being done, and not
just read about.

--
Andrew Gabriel

On Aug 17, 10:31*pm, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? *Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? *They look a mite tricky to control?

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortarhttp://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Builders+Tools/Pointing+Gu...

Are these any good? *Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).

How do you propose to get the edge of the brick clear with a nail on
wheels? Or maybe you wont bother.


NT

In article ,
NT writes:
How do you propose to get the edge of the brick clear with a nail on
wheels? Or maybe you wont bother.

That's very easy - you run the nail along the brick edge.

--
Andrew Gabriel

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? They look a mite tricky to control?

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065

Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).



Tried both, and couldn't get on with them. I used a drill bit for the
mortar removal, which worked as well as anything for me. This kind of thing

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=56514

You can drill a hole and then drag it along at an angle. Bounces around
a bit but never goes out of control

In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I would strongly suggest learning how to do it properly. Do you
know anyone local who can show you? It's not difficult, but it's
something you really need to see and feel being done, and not
just read about.

Yes - it's one of those skills you can develop your own technique for -
after seeing how others do it.

--
*Many people quit looking for work when they find a job *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 18 Aug 2009 07:40:56 GMT, Stuart Noble wrote:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=56514

You can drill a hole and then drag it along at an angle. Bounces around
a bit but never goes out of control

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=129162

Wonder if that is a little easier to control than a drill? The depth
stop might be useful but will mask what the bit is doing to the brick
work... Also available in 8mm.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tue, 18 Aug 2009 10:28:03 +0100 (BST), Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Tue, 18 Aug 2009 07:40:56 GMT, Stuart Noble wrote:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=56514

You can drill a hole and then drag it along at an angle. Bounces around
a bit but never goes out of control

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=129162

Wonder if that is a little easier to control than a drill? The depth
stop might be useful but will mask what the bit is doing to the brick
work... Also available in 8mm.

and it uses an angle grinder!
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 18 Aug 2009 07:40:56 GMT, Stuart Noble wrote:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=56514
You can drill a hole and then drag it along at an angle. Bounces around
a bit but never goes out of control

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=129162

Wonder if that is a little easier to control than a drill? The depth
stop might be useful but will mask what the bit is doing to the brick
work... Also available in 8mm.


I think you might get a neck ache trying to see where the bit was
cutting. It's one of those tedious jobs where you need to find a
comfortable way of working, even if it doesn't seem the fastest way to
begin with

Dave Liquorice coughed up some electrons that declared:

On Tue, 18 Aug 2009 07:40:56 GMT, Stuart Noble wrote:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=56514

You can drill a hole and then drag it along at an angle. Bounces around
a bit but never goes out of control

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=129162

Wonder if that is a little easier to control than a drill? The depth
stop might be useful but will mask what the bit is doing to the brick
work... Also available in 8mm.


Although my drill runs a lot quieter than my angle grinder - the latter my
drive me (and the neighbours) mad after the 1st half hour!

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon, old stuff pretty crumbly so I assume
the best tool is one of those wheelie things with a nail in it? Rather than
the TCT rasps for angle grinders? They look a mite tricky to control?

My bricklayer reckons you should just put a screw in a piece of batten.
But that is assuming lime mortar which comes out quite easily.

I would strongly suggest learning how to do it properly. Do you
know anyone local who can show you? It's not difficult, but it's
something you really need to see and feel being done, and not
just read about.

Dave
I am that man. I was shown how to do repointing by a builder when I
had my first house and had to repoint the chimney. As others have said
don't worry too much about getting all the old cack out, just the
loose bits. The way I was shown was to use the pointing trowel and get
a small triangular fillet of mortar onto the back. I use a homemade
mortar board to hold a big blob of mortar. The fillet of mortar is
then pushed into the gap. Once you have filled a long length you then
need to finish the pointing. This is a good link that shows the
different types.
http://diydata.com/techniques/brickw...g/pointing.php
I have always used the 'hollow key' method, although I will have to
admit I didn't know it was called that.
I have done this by using a short length of hose to do the finish.
I will happily give you a demo, just give me a call over the weekend.

Tim

In article
,
Tim Decker wrote:
I have done this by using a short length of hose to do the finish.

T'was always a bucket handle in my day. ;-)

But that sort of finish doesn't look good on many older houses. Raised
does.

Which needs a deal of skill/practise.

--
*The longest recorded flightof a chicken is thirteen seconds *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 19 Aug, 11:23, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
* *Tim Decker wrote:

I have done this by using a short length of hose to do the finish.

T'was always a bucket handle in my day. ;-)

*But that sort of finish doesn't look good on many older houses. Raised
does.

*Which needs a deal of skill/practise.
Whilst raised might look better, a rounded joint will still look
better than a load of flaking fallen out pointing and will certainly
provide protection. When I did this the first time it was on a
chimney, so the absence of mortar was far more noticeable.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

But that sort of finish doesn't look good on many older houses. Raised
does.

Presuming that you mean "strap" pointing (a) it looks like **** and (b)
it's out of place on older houses. There's also (c) it damages the
brickwork.

In article ,
Steve Firth wrote:
But that sort of finish doesn't look good on many older houses. Raised
does.

Presuming that you mean "strap" pointing (a) it looks like **** and (b)
it's out of place on older houses.

Think it's called 'tuck' pointing round here. And was standard practice
from new in Victorian times, but only to the front of the house.

There's also (c) it damages the
brickwork.

Mine seems to have survived rather well in over 100 years. Seen plenty of
newer houses with spalling bricks. But a different type of brick, usually.

On much older houses the concave pointing would be wrong too - as it sort
of depends on having perfectly uniform bricks and bricklaying.

--
*Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Steve Firth wrote:
But that sort of finish doesn't look good on many older houses. Raised
does.

Presuming that you mean "strap" pointing (a) it looks like **** and (b)
it's out of place on older houses.

Think it's called 'tuck' pointing round here. And was standard practice
from new in Victorian times, but only to the front of the house.

Standard on stone, and a bad idea there. But I thought we were talking
about older houses, not Johnny-come-lately-new-fangled Victorian? The
Victorians had some stupid ideas about building and ruined many Georgian
buildings with inappropriate pointing and the use of hard mortar where
they should have been using lime mortar. So I wouldn't take a Victorians
view on how to point a house.

There's also (c) it damages the
brickwork.

Mine seems to have survived rather well in over 100 years. Seen plenty of
newer houses with spalling bricks. But a different type of brick, usually.

It holds water agains the brick/stone and encourages both penetrating
damp and spalling. It was perhaps the single crappest idea in a whole
list of crap Victorian ideas. You might not have seen it causing
problems, I've lived in both stone (Georgian) buildings and brick
(Victorian) buildings which have been ruined by strap pointing. And in
both cases I've had to pay good money to get rid of it.

On much older houses the concave pointing would be wrong too - as it sort
of depends on having perfectly uniform bricks and bricklaying.

The pointing on Georgian buildings is done in lime mortar, and the
bricks are usually laid both uniformly and with a finer mortar joint
than the modern horror.

I would help if you gave an era for "much older".

The message
from (Steve Firth) contains these words:


The pointing on Georgian buildings is done in lime mortar

A somewhat undefined term which can mean many things. Current thinking
among the restoration fraternity is a mix which is principally lime
putty and sand with a very small admixture of hydraulic lime to give an
initial set.

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon,

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065

Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).



no they are crap (1), used be amateurs bodgers and h......
learn to do the job properly

1) for them to work at all the mortar needs to be far far to wet, and then
at best you can only do a bucket joint.**

\0

In article ,
Steve Firth wrote:
Mine seems to have survived rather well in over 100 years. Seen plenty
of newer houses with spalling bricks. But a different type of brick,
usually.

It holds water agains the brick/stone and encourages both penetrating
damp and spalling.

Badly done, then. The top edge should slope down to avoid holding water.

--
*Can vegetarians eat animal crackers?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Steve Firth wrote:
Mine seems to have survived rather well in over 100 years. Seen plenty
of newer houses with spalling bricks. But a different type of brick,
usually.

It holds water agains the brick/stone and encourages both penetrating
damp and spalling.

Badly done, then. The top edge should slope down to avoid holding water.

I've never seen it well done. Indeed I suspect that builders
deliberately do it badly to encourage problems that they can come back
and "fix" for a fee.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Steve Firth wrote:
Mine seems to have survived rather well in over 100 years. Seen plenty
of newer houses with spalling bricks. But a different type of brick,
usually.

It holds water agains the brick/stone and encourages both penetrating
damp and spalling.

Badly done, then. The top edge should slope down to avoid holding water.


He (for whatever reason) is referring to strap pointing,communally used
indoors on fake sandstone fireplaces.

\0

In article ,
Mark wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Steve Firth wrote:
Mine seems to have survived rather well in over 100 years. Seen plenty
of newer houses with spalling bricks. But a different type of brick,
usually.

It holds water agains the brick/stone and encourages both penetrating
damp and spalling.

Badly done, then. The top edge should slope down to avoid holding
water.


He (for whatever reason) is referring to strap pointing,communally used
indoors on fake sandstone fireplaces.

Right. Dunno that one. My architect specified 'tuck' pointing and the
builders seemed to know what he meant, and had a guy who could do it
quickly making a beautiful job. It was for the walls round a previously
sloping roof converted to a roof terrace where some of them were
previously partially internal. So the entire area, which included some new
brickwork, was re-pointed to give a uniform appearance. It has the benefit
of appearing to make the poorer quality bricks originally used where they
didn't show etc look pretty good. Only other place where this type of
pointing is used is to the front of the house - the side and end walls are
done in a more simple style.

--
*The modem is the message *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 21 Aug, 09:57, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
.. My architect specified 'tuck' pointing and the
builders seemed to know what he meant, and had a guy who could do it
quickly making a beautiful job. It was for the walls round a previously
sloping roof converted to a roof terrace where some of them were
previously partially internal. So the entire area, which included some new
brickwork, was re-pointed to give a uniform appearance. It has the benefit
of appearing to make the poorer quality bricks originally used where they
didn't show etc look pretty good. Only other place where this type of
pointing is used is to the front of the house - the side and end walls are
done in a more simple style.

I understood tuck pointing to be where the joint is filled with a
mortar that matches the brick colour, and then a seperate thinner line
of lighter mortar is inserted into the pointing itself, to look like
the mortar course is thinner than it is (like a rubbed joint). Is
that what you mean - it's pretty fancy stuff.

I also thought the vickys went for flush (self-explanatory) or
recessed (flat mortar face, set back into the joint behind the face of
the brick) rather than strap pointing.

Strap pointing I always thought meant that horrible string vest stuff,
where the joint is proud of the brick. People seem to be referring in
this thread to what I know as weatherstruck pointing (where the
pointing slopes, recessed to brick edge at the top, and proud at the
bottom) as strap pointing.

Maybe the terminology is not set in stone, or mortar, or whatever.

Bolted wrote:

People seem to be referring in
this thread to what I know as weatherstruck pointing (where the
pointing slopes, recessed to brick edge at the top, and proud at the
bottom) as strap pointing.

Err no I'm not, I'm referring to strap pointing, not weatherstruck. I
did so because Dave mentioned that the pointing was "raised" and I
started off with "Presuming that you mean "strap" pointing".

On 21 Aug, 11:06, (Steve Firth) wrote:
Bolted wrote:
People seem to be referring in
this thread to what I know as weatherstruck pointing (where the
pointing slopes, recessed to brick edge at the top, and proud at the
bottom) as strap pointing.

Err no I'm not, I'm referring to strap pointing, not weatherstruck. I
did so because Dave mentioned that the pointing was "raised" and I
started off with "Presuming that you mean "strap" pointing".

Err, it's not all about you.

"Badly done, then. The top edge should slope down to avoid holding
water".

Bolted wrote:

On 21 Aug, 11:06, (Steve Firth) wrote:
Bolted wrote:
People seem to be referring in
this thread to what I know as weatherstruck pointing (where the
pointing slopes, recessed to brick edge at the top, and proud at the
bottom) as strap pointing.

Err no I'm not, I'm referring to strap pointing, not weatherstruck. I
did so because Dave mentioned that the pointing was "raised" and I
started off with "Presuming that you mean "strap" pointing".

Err, it's not all about you.

I'm the only to have mentioned strap pointing.

"Badly done, then. The top edge should slope down to avoid holding
water".

Yes, it's clear that Dave was talking about something else, but "raised"
and "weatherstruck" don't go together in my experience. That's why I
tried to clarify if he meant strap pointing or something else.

On 21 Aug, 11:50, (Steve Firth) wrote:

Yes, it's clear that Dave was talking about something else, but "raised"
and "weatherstruck" don't go together in my experience. That's why I
tried to clarify if he meant strap pointing or something else.

Ahh, what I think of as weatherstruck is 'weatherstruck and cut', live
and learn.

http://www.brick.org.uk/mortar-joint-profiles.html

In article
,
Bolted wrote:
Yes, it's clear that Dave was talking about something else, but "raised"
and "weatherstruck" don't go together in my experience. That's why I
tried to clarify if he meant strap pointing or something else.

Ahh, what I think of as weatherstruck is 'weatherstruck and cut', live
and learn.

http://www.brick.org.uk/mortar-joint-profiles.html

That doesn't show the type used here. It's sort of raised about 3mm proud
of the brick face. With a slope to the top. Perhaps it is a local thing.
My architect was good at that. ;-)

--
*I didn't drive my husband crazy -- I flew him there -- it was faster

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 21 Aug, 13:18, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

That doesn't show the type used here. It's sort of raised about 3mm proud
of the brick face. With a slope to the top. Perhaps it is a local thing.
My architect was good at that. ;-)
* * * * * * * To e-mail, change noise into sound.

That just sounds like ribbon or strap pointing, which is almost
universally now deprecated as historically inaccurate, ugly, and bad
for the bricks (string vest pointing). Maybe your area was an early
adopter.

My vicky has it as well, not too far proud thankfully, but it is
definitely not original - 60s or 70s at a guess, and cement.

In article
,
Bolted wrote:
That doesn't show the type used here. It's sort of raised about 3mm
proud of the brick face. With a slope to the top. Perhaps it is a
local thing. My architect was good at that. ;-)

That just sounds like ribbon or strap pointing, which is almost
universally now deprecated as historically inaccurate, ugly, and bad
for the bricks (string vest pointing). Maybe your area was an early
adopter.

I dunno. Both this house and its other half are the same - but not all in
the street. It's likely they've been repointed at some time in their 130
year life? But before I bought it - and it didn't look new then. Some 30
odd years ago. Nor can I imagine the previous owner paying one farthing
more than she could get away with. ;-)

My vicky has it as well, not too far proud thankfully, but it is
definitely not original - 60s or 70s at a guess, and cement.

Ok. All I can say is it looks good on the roof terrace walls which as I
said are made up of a real mixture of bricks, since most weren't designed
to be seen.

--
*Seen it all, done it all, can't remember most of it*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:

I dunno. Both this house and its other half are the same - but not all in
the street. It's likely they've been repointed at some time in their 130
year life? But before I bought it - and it didn't look new then. Some 30
odd years ago. Nor can I imagine the previous owner paying one farthing
more than she could get away with. ;-)

My 100 year old one hasn't been repointed for the most part.
I've done a few small areas which need it (including one where
some wally tried repointing with pure cement), but most still
doesn't and is the original. Probably depends heavily on the
quality of the original lime mortar, the local environment,
and making sure anything like broken guttering gets quickly
fixed.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:

I dunno. Both this house and its other half are the same - but not all in
the street. It's likely they've been repointed at some time in their 130
year life? But before I bought it - and it didn't look new then. Some 30
odd years ago. Nor can I imagine the previous owner paying one farthing
more than she could get away with. ;-)

My 100 year old one hasn't been repointed for the most part.
I've done a few small areas which need it (including one where
some wally tried repointing with pure cement), but most still
doesn't and is the original. Probably depends heavily on the
quality of the original lime mortar, the local environment,
and making sure anything like broken guttering gets quickly
fixed.

I'm pretty certain the pointing isn't lime mortar anywhere. Although the
main mortar is. The house had a fair shaking in the war and perhaps there
was quite a bit of work done afterwards.

--
*He who laughs last, thinks slowest.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Mark wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

It holds water agains the brick/stone and encourages both penetrating
damp and spalling.

Badly done, then. The top edge should slope down to avoid holding
water.


He (for whatever reason) is referring to strap pointing,communally used
indoors on fake sandstone fireplaces.

Right. Dunno that one. My architect specified 'tuck' pointing and the
builders seemed to know what he meant, and had a guy who could do it
quickly making a beautiful job.


blimey im surprised you could find a builder still able to do*Tuck and Pat*or
even have the necessary*tools to do it*properly.
but yes with uneven faced bricks on early Vic property's
done well it looks superb.*
\0
\0

In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:
In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:

I dunno. Both this house and its other half are the same - but not all in
the street. It's likely they've been repointed at some time in their 130
year life? But before I bought it - and it didn't look new then. Some 30
odd years ago. Nor can I imagine the previous owner paying one farthing
more than she could get away with. ;-)

My 100 year old one hasn't been repointed for the most part.
I've done a few small areas which need it (including one where
some wally tried repointing with pure cement), but most still
doesn't and is the original. Probably depends heavily on the
quality of the original lime mortar, the local environment,
and making sure anything like broken guttering gets quickly
fixed.

I'm pretty certain the pointing isn't lime mortar anywhere. Although the
main mortar is. The house had a fair shaking in the war and perhaps there
was quite a bit of work done afterwards.

It was quite common for cement to be used in the pointing
with lime mortar houses even at original build, to improve
the protection against weathering.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

The message
from (Andrew Gabriel) contains these words:


It was quite common for cement to be used in the pointing
with lime mortar houses even at original build, to improve
the protection against weathering.

Against weathering of what?

It certainly "improves" the protection of the pointing against
weathering, but usually has the opposite effect on the weathering of the
brick or stone.

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Got to do a fair bit of pointing soon,

I've also seen a sort of sealant gun for mortar

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p51065

Are these any good? Bit wary after spending money on a Durgun which was
useless (I know its for a different application).



video of someone using a mortar Gun
its ok with Lime, but Christ it would be an unimaginable mess with cement
mortar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgjxCcQ020M
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