I've never hung a cistern before. Got a high level jobbie for hopefully a
better flush.

The hanging went well - it's dangling on 2 M8 stainless studs chemical
mortared into the wall (bloody celcon blocks - I don't trust plugs for such
a heavy load). Not going to fall off. Ever.

However - the flush pipe drop isn't quite right and looks like it needs the
cistern packing out at the bottom by about 15-20mm and about 10mm at the
top.

This could be achieved by a piece of batten across the back and some packers
betwixt the cistern and the wall around the bolts.

I don't see an issue with this - but having never done one before, is it
normal to have to shove bits of packing behind cisterns to bring them off
the wall?

Cheers

Tim

Tim S wrote:
I've never hung a cistern before. Got a high level jobbie for
hopefully a better flush.

The hanging went well - it's dangling on 2 M8 stainless studs chemical
mortared into the wall (bloody celcon blocks - I don't trust plugs
for such a heavy load). Not going to fall off. Ever.

However - the flush pipe drop isn't quite right and looks like it
needs the cistern packing out at the bottom by about 15-20mm and
about 10mm at the top.

This could be achieved by a piece of batten across the back and some
packers betwixt the cistern and the wall around the bolts.

I don't see an issue with this - but having never done one before, is
it normal to have to shove bits of packing behind cisterns to bring
them off the wall?

Cheers

Tim


The down pipe from the cistern should allow for cutting to the position of
the bowl. If the down pipe has been cut before, it may need lengthend on
the horizontal to match up with the pan in your new setting.

I was always asked, many years ago, when these were the normal flush loo's,
to replace the older cast pipes for new plastic pipe. The only way to do it
then, was to buy the length of pipe and a solvent weld natural bend. Not an
elbow. A swept bend. So when you're out buying the new pipe, ask the
merchant for a "90 degree Swept Bend" and a new rubber flush inlet gasket to
suit the size of the new pipework. (32mm or 40mm)

BigWallop coughed up some electrons that declared:

The down pipe from the cistern should allow for cutting to the position of
the bowl. If the down pipe has been cut before, it may need lengthend on
the horizontal to match up with the pan in your new setting.

I was always asked, many years ago, when these were the normal flush
loo's,
to replace the older cast pipes for new plastic pipe. The only way to do
it
then, was to buy the length of pipe and a solvent weld natural bend. Not
an
elbow. A swept bend. So when you're out buying the new pipe, ask the
merchant for a "90 degree Swept Bend" and a new rubber flush inlet gasket
to
suit the size of the new pipework. (32mm or 40mm)

Hi,

Slight misunderstanding... There's enough pipe (it's metal).

What's happening is the pipe isn't sitting parallel to the wall - it's
trying to push back into the wall. Something isn't straight (no surprise).

By packing the base of the cistern out, I'm changing the angle to allow the
pipe to swing forward without straining the pipe-flush valve coupling.

Ta

Tim

Tim S wrote:
BigWallop coughed up some electrons that declared:

The down pipe from the cistern should allow for cutting to the
position of the bowl. If the down pipe has been cut before, it may
need lengthend on the horizontal to match up with the pan in your
new setting.

I was always asked, many years ago, when these were the normal flush
loo's,
to replace the older cast pipes for new plastic pipe. The only way
to do it
then, was to buy the length of pipe and a solvent weld natural bend.
Not an
elbow. A swept bend. So when you're out buying the new pipe, ask
the merchant for a "90 degree Swept Bend" and a new rubber flush
inlet gasket to
suit the size of the new pipework. (32mm or 40mm)

Hi,

Slight misunderstanding... There's enough pipe (it's metal).

What's happening is the pipe isn't sitting parallel to the wall - it's
trying to push back into the wall. Something isn't straight (no
surprise).

By packing the base of the cistern out, I'm changing the angle to
allow the pipe to swing forward without straining the pipe-flush
valve coupling.

Ta

Tim


Ah Ha!! No surprise at things not be striaght, right enough. Can you put
an offset in the downpipe to allow it to sit properly? Does the downpipe
have an offset than can be manouvered to allow the thing to seat in better?

It will probably take a huge bending spring to make an offset, but easier if
you have access to a pile of sand? If you can get hold of enough dry sand,
seal the ends of the pipe after packing out the pipe tightly with the sand
and try to go for a bend. If you try this method, make sure the sand is
packed really tightly in the whole length of pipe.

Or seek the help of your blacksmith with a large pipe bender to make a sure
off set in the pipe for you.

BigWallop coughed up some electrons that declared:


Ah Ha!! No surprise at things not be striaght, right enough.

It's the joy of pottery products - the top is level, the bottom isn't - in
either plane. It's only a couple of mm out, but with a long pipe, that adds
up fast.

Wonder if I can get some 2" lead pipe and go fully retro like the bog I grew
up with...

Can you put
an offset in the downpipe to allow it to sit properly? Does the downpipe
have an offset than can be manouvered to allow the thing to seat in
better?

Well, There is some slop in the pipe to cistern joint - but it's right on
the limit.

It will probably take a huge bending spring to make an offset, but easier
if
you have access to a pile of sand? If you can get hold of enough dry
sand, seal the ends of the pipe after packing out the pipe tightly with
the sand
and try to go for a bend. If you try this method, make sure the sand is
packed really tightly in the whole length of pipe.

Or seek the help of your blacksmith with a large pipe bender to make a
sure off set in the pipe for you.

I like the sand idea (I have loads). Never thought of that. The pipe has a
swan neck double offset in it anyway - it would be a case of unsetting one
of those bends a couple of degrees.

I think just bringing the bottom of the cistern forward a bit to re-align
the angles might be easier - just wondered if it was the done thing?

Cheers

Tim

Tim S wrote:
BigWallop coughed up some electrons that declared:


Ah Ha!! No surprise at things not be striaght, right enough.

It's the joy of pottery products - the top is level, the bottom isn't
- in either plane. It's only a couple of mm out, but with a long
pipe, that adds up fast.

Wonder if I can get some 2" lead pipe and go fully retro like the bog
I grew up with...

Can you put
an offset in the downpipe to allow it to sit properly? Does the
downpipe have an offset than can be manouvered to allow the thing to
seat in better?

Well, There is some slop in the pipe to cistern joint - but it's
right on the limit.

It will probably take a huge bending spring to make an offset, but
easier if
you have access to a pile of sand? If you can get hold of enough dry
sand, seal the ends of the pipe after packing out the pipe tightly
with the sand
and try to go for a bend. If you try this method, make sure the
sand is packed really tightly in the whole length of pipe.

Or seek the help of your blacksmith with a large pipe bender to make
a sure off set in the pipe for you.

I like the sand idea (I have loads). Never thought of that. The pipe
has a swan neck double offset in it anyway - it would be a case of
unsetting one of those bends a couple of degrees.

I think just bringing the bottom of the cistern forward a bit to
re-align the angles might be easier - just wondered if it was the
done thing?

Cheers

Tim


It seems it is going to have to be the done thing in this case. But you can
hide a small block of timber at the back of the cistern, so it doesn't have
to be a full length batten sticking out at either side. I hope. It is just
to re-align the cistern to match the pipe, right?
...