Any clever ideas on this one?

Had a wood-burner fitted a year ago and the fitters "flued" it with a
narrow, probably 6" diameter, metal concertina-type flue up inside the
original old flue to the roof (probably a distance of 7 metres all in).

Anyway, though I had better give it a clean so I got out my 1-metre rods
with brush attachments etc., but can't get up more than a metre.
Problem is the bends - combined with the narrowness of the pipe. And,
of course, I don't want to puncture the thing by forcing my way up.

Went online and saw that at stovesonline.co.uk they're offering just the
thing - a really thin and very flexible "rod", with attachments.
Problem is it's £20 per metre!!!!!!!

There must be a cheaper way round this.

First thought is, what about a good stiff garden hose? (No rude joke
intended.)

Anyone already come up with an effective solution to this problem?

Eddy.

Eddy wrote:
Any clever ideas on this one?

Had a wood-burner fitted a year ago and the fitters "flued" it with a
narrow, probably 6" diameter, metal concertina-type flue up inside the
original old flue to the roof (probably a distance of 7 metres all in).

Anyway, though I had better give it a clean so I got out my 1-metre rods
with brush attachments etc., but can't get up more than a metre.
Problem is the bends - combined with the narrowness of the pipe. And,
of course, I don't want to puncture the thing by forcing my way up.

Went online and saw that at stovesonline.co.uk they're offering just the
thing - a really thin and very flexible "rod", with attachments.
Problem is it's �20 per metre!!!!!!!

There must be a cheaper way round this.

First thought is, what about a good stiff garden hose? (No rude joke
intended.)

Anyone already come up with an effective solution to this problem?

Eddy.

Try the old shotgun up the flue trick.

:-)

COULD use blanks..

"Eddy" wrote in message
...
Any clever ideas on this one?

Had a wood-burner fitted a year ago and the fitters "flued" it with a
narrow, probably 6" diameter, metal concertina-type flue up inside the
original old flue to the roof (probably a distance of 7 metres all in).

Anyway, though I had better give it a clean so I got out my 1-metre rods
with brush attachments etc., but can't get up more than a metre.
Problem is the bends - combined with the narrowness of the pipe. And,
of course, I don't want to puncture the thing by forcing my way up.

Went online and saw that at stovesonline.co.uk they're offering just the
thing - a really thin and very flexible "rod", with attachments.
Problem is it's £20 per metre!!!!!!!

There must be a cheaper way round this.

First thought is, what about a good stiff garden hose? (No rude joke
intended.)

Anyone already come up with an effective solution to this problem?

Find a close fitting, heavy, ball and drop it down from the top.

Colin Bignell

First off, go easy on it. You don't want to damage the smooth inner
layer of the flexi.

(solid fuel flexis have a corrugated outer layer, and a smooth inner,
with the edges of the helical inner winding facing downwards - the
idea being to reduce places for moisture/tar to get trapped and start
attacking the stainless)

I use conventional rods & brush - but the angles aren't too tight it
mine. You might like to look at hiring the kit, using a professional
sweep, dragging a brush through on a rope from the top - or simply
caving in to the cost of good rods.

In article , "" wrote:


Find a close fitting, heavy, ball and drop it down from the top.

Preferably on the end of a rope, otherwise when it hits he hearth it
goes bouncing across the room :-) - or gets stuck on the way down :-)

--
John W

Owain wrote:

Something like a pressure washer drain cleaning end, but with
compressed air instead of water?

Feasible! Blow the lot out of the top too, so no soot coming downwards!

Radio-controlled model helicopter with brushes on the rotor end, and
CCTV camera so you can see where it's going?

Long-haired cat, hairspray it so the fur forms bristles.?

Bass guitar amp in the fireplace pointing upward, and vibrate the soot
off.

Very amusing! LOL.

Eddy.

RubberBiker wrote:

First off, go easy on it. You don't want to damage the smooth inner
layer of the flexi.

Yes, that's was one of my worries.

(solid fuel flexis have a corrugated outer layer, and a smooth inner,
with the edges of the helical inner winding facing downwards - the
idea being to reduce places for moisture/tar to get trapped and start
attacking the stainless)

I use conventional rods & brush - but the angles aren't too tight it
mine. You might like to look at hiring the kit, using a professional
sweep, dragging a brush through on a rope from the top - or simply
caving in to the cost of good rods.

Dragging a brush through from the top sounds feasible, although I
wouldn't like to be trying it when I'm a bit older.

Haven't thought about getting a quote from a sweep. Worth seeing what
they charge, at least.

By the way, I discovered in my abortive attempt to do the job this
morning that the first metre and a half is absolutely clean. Do you
think this might mean the whole thing is absolutely clean? Does soot
tend to only gather higher up? (I only burn wood.)

Eddy.

nightjar .me.uk wrote:

Anyone already come up with an effective solution to this problem?

Find a close fitting, heavy, ball and drop it down from the top.

Ingenious, Colin! And put a good strong net up in front of the grate so
it doesn't charge out when it hits the bottom and dive straight into TV
screen?

Eddy.

John Weston wrote:
Find a close fitting, heavy, ball and drop it down from the top.

Preferably on the end of a rope, otherwise when it hits he hearth it
goes bouncing across the room :-) - or gets stuck on the way down :-)

Yes, a good idea, the rope, in case of it getting stuck. And maybe not
to close fitting either. Actually combine Owain's idea of cat sprayed
stiff with hairspray with the ball and come up with a ball-brush. Still
has me on the roof though, which I'm not to keen on!

Eddy.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Try the old shotgun up the flue trick.

In an old Welsh farm-house with 18"-thick stone walls, perhaps! But not
inside this delicate metal flue. Can't afford to put a hole in it.

Eddy.

Owain wrote:
On 1 Aug, 15:04, Eddy wrote:
Any clever ideas on this one?
First thought is, what about a good stiff garden hose?

Something like a pressure washer drain cleaning end, but with
compressed air instead of water?

Radio-controlled model helicopter with brushes on the rotor end, and
CCTV camera so you can see where it's going?

Long-haired cat, hairspray it so the fur forms bristles.?

Bass guitar amp in the fireplace pointing upward, and vibrate the soot
off.


That's a neat one. Never thought of that.

Owain

In message , Eddy
writes
Any clever ideas on this one?

Had a wood-burner fitted a year ago and the fitters "flued" it with a
narrow, probably 6" diameter, metal concertina-type flue up inside the
original old flue to the roof (probably a distance of 7 metres all in).

Anyway, though I had better give it a clean so I got out my 1-metre rods
with brush attachments etc., but can't get up more than a metre.
Problem is the bends - combined with the narrowness of the pipe. And,
of course, I don't want to puncture the thing by forcing my way up.

Went online and saw that at stovesonline.co.uk they're offering just the
thing - a really thin and very flexible "rod", with attachments.
Problem is it's £20 per metre!!!!!!!

There must be a cheaper way round this.

First thought is, what about a good stiff garden hose? (No rude joke
intended.)

Anyone already come up with an effective solution to this problem?

Try fluesystems.com

They offer a modestly priced 6" brush. I believe you can use
conventional drain rods if you purchase the adapter bush.

You could use a torch and a mirror to examine the flue further up. The
first few feet are likely to be hot enough to stay clean.

As others has said, be very careful.

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Owain wrote:
On 1 Aug, 15:04, Eddy wrote:
Any clever ideas on this one?
First thought is, what about a good stiff garden hose?

Something like a pressure washer drain cleaning end, but with
compressed air instead of water?

Commercial kitchen extractor ducting is cleaned by something similar using
steam rather that HP water.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Hmmm - soot with traces of sulphur compounds plus water and you might
create sulphuric acid - particularly with high pressure water or
steam, this may exactly what you don't want to drive into the joints
of the liner.

On Sat, 01 Aug 2009 23:20:22 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Something like a pressure washer drain cleaning end, but with
compressed air instead of water?

Commercial kitchen extractor ducting is cleaned by something similar
using steam rather that HP water.

Yeah but soot is dry and crumbly not a thick, sticky, greasy, gunk.

TBH the thought of stuffing a pressure washer drain cleaning head fed
with compressed air(*) seem to me to be a very good way of filling
the house with soot. Even with a soot proof sheet taped over the
opening and a proper entry for the manual poles and a vacum you still
get soot into the house.

As for the OP's problem. I think short of going up onto the roof and
looking down from the top to see what that is like. Does it need a
sweep? Don't forget rain might clean the top few feet. A set of more
flexable rods or bringing in a sweep is the best bet. For a pro-sweep
it's only a couple of hours so I'd expect change from £100. If he has
to travel over 20/30 miles it might be worth getting in touch with
others nearby and arranging to all have your chimneys done on the
same day.

(*) Getting a high enough volume at suitable pressure supply of
compressed air might be a problem. I doubt yer average 2 or 3hp
compressor would manage it.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Tim Lamb wrote:
Try fluesystems.com

They offer a modestly priced 6" brush. I believe you can use
conventional drain rods if you purchase the adapter bush.

Thanks, Tim. I see they advertise:

"Flexible nylon rods:- These rods are available in 1/2" diameter and are
designed specifically for use when sweeping chimney liners. They have
brass universal fittings and connect directly to the brushes without the
use of the adaptor below. Each is 1 metre long."

But they don't give any idea of price. Will email them and see if each
1-metre rod is less than £20 each.

No, can't you conventional drain rods. Have them already. Nearly an
inch thick and no flexibility in them for getting around the 45 degree
bends.

You could use a torch and a mirror to examine the flue further up. The
first few feet are likely to be hot enough to stay clean.

Right. So a clean first few feet doesn't mean it's clean much further
up. Thought that might be the case.

As others has said, be very careful.

Taking every precaution.

Thanks again.
Eddy.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
As for the OP's problem. I think short of going up onto the roof and
looking down from the top to see what that is like. Does it need a
sweep? Don't forget rain might clean the top few feet. A set of more
flexable rods or bringing in a sweep is the best bet. For a pro-sweep
it's only a couple of hours so I'd expect change from £100. If he has
to travel over 20/30 miles it might be worth getting in touch with
others nearby and arranging to all have your chimneys done on the
same day.

Hi, Dave.

Unfortunately, if I were to get up on the roof I couldn't see down it
because of the cowl permanently fixed to stop rain getting in.

Thanks for an idea re. price of having a sweep in. Bearing in mind the
need to have the job done annually, as we have the stove going almost
each night from November through to May, the cost of the ultra flexible
rods and brushes would be more than repaid after two years.

Eddy.

Something like a pressure washer drain cleaning end, but with
compressed air instead of water?

Radio-controlled model helicopter with brushes on the rotor end, and
CCTV camera so you can see where it's going?

Long-haired cat, hairspray it so the fur forms bristles.?

Bass guitar amp in the fireplace pointing upward, and vibrate the soot
off.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
That's a neat one. Never thought of that.

How about the idea of just chucking down half a dozen hedgehogs then?
:-)

Eddy.

In message , Eddy
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
Try fluesystems.com

They offer a modestly priced 6" brush. I believe you can use
conventional drain rods if you purchase the adapter bush.

Thanks, Tim. I see they advertise:

"Flexible nylon rods:- These rods are available in 1/2" diameter and are
designed specifically for use when sweeping chimney liners. They have
brass universal fittings and connect directly to the brushes without the
use of the adaptor below. Each is 1 metre long."

But they don't give any idea of price. Will email them and see if each
1-metre rod is less than £20 each.

18 or so, not much help! You get prices when you go to the purchase
page.

No, can't you conventional drain rods. Have them already. Nearly an
inch thick and no flexibility in them for getting around the 45 degree
bends.

Cowl off and down from the top? Presumably the acute bends are in the
bit at the bottom?

regards

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
But they don't give any idea of price. Will email them and see if each
1-metre rod is less than £20 each.

18 or so, not much help! You get prices when you go to the purchase
page.

Thanks!

No, can't you conventional drain rods. Have them already. Nearly an
inch thick and no flexibility in them for getting around the 45 degree
bends.

Cowl off and down from the top? Presumably the acute bends are in the
bit at the bottom?

In the middle area.

Have found one site where the 1/2 flexible rods are just £12 each,
approx.

Progress!

Eddy

"Eddy" wrote in message
...
Dave Liquorice wrote:
As for the OP's problem. I think short of going up onto the roof and
looking down from the top to see what that is like. Does it need a
sweep? Don't forget rain might clean the top few feet. A set of more
flexable rods or bringing in a sweep is the best bet. For a pro-sweep
it's only a couple of hours so I'd expect change from £100. If he has
to travel over 20/30 miles it might be worth getting in touch with
others nearby and arranging to all have your chimneys done on the
same day.

Hi, Dave.

Unfortunately, if I were to get up on the roof I couldn't see down it
because of the cowl permanently fixed to stop rain getting in.


Is there enough clearance around or within the cowl, to put down the chimney
a heavy cord with a weight on the end?

My thoughts would be to attach this cord to the brush and pull it up with
the rods trailing, rather than pushing the brush from below?

On Sun, 02 Aug 2009 13:04:40 +0100, Eddy wrote:

Unfortunately, if I were to get up on the roof I couldn't see down it
because of the cowl permanently fixed to stop rain getting in.

Nothing is permanent...

Thanks for an idea re. price of having a sweep in. Bearing in mind the
need to have the job done annually, as we have the stove going almost
each night from November through to May,

"They" recomend having the flue swept every year. I'd be tempted to
do that after the first year of use and see how much soot came down
and make a decision on next year based on that. A stove burns far
more effciently than an open fire, how well seasoned and what your
wood is (hard wood or resin laden softwood), does have an effect
though. Well seasoned dry hardwood I wouldn't expect much soot/tar
from. Green, damp, softwood on the other hand...

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Eddy" wrote in message
...
nightjar .me.uk wrote:

Anyone already come up with an effective solution to this problem?

Find a close fitting, heavy, ball and drop it down from the top.

Ingenious, Colin! And put a good strong net up in front of the grate so
it doesn't charge out when it hits the bottom and dive straight into TV
screen?

Personally, I would put a sheet across it, as that will catch all the
rubbish dislodged by the ball at the same time. BTW the ball idea comes from
the Paris sewer system, where they use it to clean a tunnel under the Seine.

Colin Bignell

Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Sun, 02 Aug 2009 13:04:40 +0100, Eddy wrote:

Unfortunately, if I were to get up on the roof I couldn't see down it
because of the cowl permanently fixed to stop rain getting in.

Nothing is permanent...

Indeed. But once I start removing . . . then later I have to start
securing.

Thanks for an idea re. price of having a sweep in. Bearing in mind the
need to have the job done annually, as we have the stove going almost
each night from November through to May,

"They" recomend having the flue swept every year. I'd be tempted to
do that after the first year of use and see how much soot came down
and make a decision on next year based on that. A stove burns far
more effciently than an open fire, how well seasoned and what your
wood is (hard wood or resin laden softwood), does have an effect
though. Well seasoned dry hardwood I wouldn't expect much soot/tar
from. Green, damp, softwood on the other hand...

Thanks for good advice here. Yes, it's been a full year's use the
woodburner's has had so this is the time to decide just how often a
clean is really necessary.

Eddy.

Fredxx wrote:

Is there enough clearance around or within the cowl, to put down the chimney
a heavy cord with a weight on the end?

Yes, a gap of about 2 inches nearly all the way round.

My thoughts would be to attach this cord to the brush and pull it up with
the rods trailing, rather than pushing the brush from below?

Now, that's a good idea if even the 1/2 inch flexible rods won't go up
with ease. Must remember that. Having spent roughly £100 on the
special flexible rods and brushes, this would be a way of ensuring they
can be put to use if they don't go up by being pushed from below.

Eddy.

nightjar .me.uk wrote:


"Eddy" wrote in message
...
nightjar .me.uk wrote:

Anyone already come up with an effective solution to this problem?

Find a close fitting, heavy, ball and drop it down from the top.

Ingenious, Colin! And put a good strong net up in front of the grate so
it doesn't charge out when it hits the bottom and dive straight into TV
screen?

Personally, I would put a sheet across it, as that will catch all the
rubbish dislodged by the ball at the same time. BTW the ball idea comes from
the Paris sewer system, where they use it to clean a tunnel under the Seine.

Fascinating, Colin. Anything that does the job effectively . . .

Eddy.