Thinking ahead to replacing my floor standing boiler
Worcester...................... It sits in an upstairs airing cupboard with
plasterboard sandwich walls (no decent noggins).

When I come to change, in order to widen my choice of boilers - but to avoid
trying to get a good fixing onto the plasterboard I wonder if it would be
permissible to make up a sort of angle bracket which would enable the weight
to be taken by the airing cupboard floor (above the stairs and about 18"
above the hall floor. I would have something welded out of angle steel so it
would be strong. Perhaps something like a pipe jig (which comes with some
boilers) with feet to make it "L" shaped.

Any thoughts?

In article ,
"John" writes:
Thinking ahead to replacing my floor standing boiler
Worcester...................... It sits in an upstairs airing cupboard with
plasterboard sandwich walls (no decent noggins).

When I come to change, in order to widen my choice of boilers - but to avoid
trying to get a good fixing onto the plasterboard I wonder if it would be
permissible to make up a sort of angle bracket which would enable the weight
to be taken by the airing cupboard floor (above the stairs and about 18"
above the hall floor. I would have something welded out of angle steel so it
would be strong. Perhaps something like a pipe jig (which comes with some
boilers) with feet to make it "L" shaped.

Any thoughts?

I've seen such brackets in plumbers merchants.
They are mainly aimed for mounting boilers in lofts, where there
are usually no suitable walls (gable-ends are not suitable for
heavy loads unless mounted some distance below the top).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"John" writes:
Thinking ahead to replacing my floor standing boiler
Worcester...................... It sits in an upstairs airing cupboard
with
plasterboard sandwich walls (no decent noggins).

When I come to change, in order to widen my choice of boilers - but to
avoid
trying to get a good fixing onto the plasterboard I wonder if it would be
permissible to make up a sort of angle bracket which would enable the
weight
to be taken by the airing cupboard floor (above the stairs and about 18"
above the hall floor. I would have something welded out of angle steel so
it
would be strong. Perhaps something like a pipe jig (which comes with some
boilers) with feet to make it "L" shaped.

Any thoughts?

I've seen such brackets in plumbers merchants.
They are mainly aimed for mounting boilers in lofts, where there
are usually no suitable walls (gable-ends are not suitable for
heavy loads unless mounted some distance below the top).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Great tip. Many thanks.

John wrote:
Thinking ahead to replacing my floor standing boiler
Worcester...................... It sits in an upstairs airing cupboard with
plasterboard sandwich walls (no decent noggins).

When I come to change, in order to widen my choice of boilers - but to avoid
trying to get a good fixing onto the plasterboard I wonder if it would be
permissible to make up a sort of angle bracket which would enable the weight
to be taken by the airing cupboard floor (above the stairs and about 18"
above the hall floor. I would have something welded out of angle steel so it
would be strong. Perhaps something like a pipe jig (which comes with some
boilers) with feet to make it "L" shaped.

Any thoughts?



Might be easier/cheaper though just to cover over the plasterboard at
the back of the airing cupboard with a piece of 12mm WBP plywood (the
width of the cupboard if possible, resting on the floor and as high as
the top of the new boiler) and fix it to the plasterboard with
sticks-like-****/a bunch of whirlies/screws into studs or noggings as
appropriate. Paint the plywood with undercoat and gloss. Mr boilerman
can use spring toggles for the boiler.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11595

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/31268

On Wed, 06 May 2009 19:02:34 +0100, Dave Osborne wrote:

Might be easier/cheaper though just to cover over the plasterboard at
the back of the airing cupboard with a piece of 12mm WBP plywood (the
width of the cupboard if possible, resting on the floor and as high as
the top of the new boiler) and fix it to the plasterboard with
sticks-like-****/a bunch of whirlies/screws into studs or noggings as
appropriate. Paint the plywood with undercoat and gloss. Mr boilerman
can use spring toggles for the boiler.

.... and ride away into the sunset with his spurs jangling.

Not this boilerman thank you. Secure, non-combustible surface please.



--
John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk

This sig intentionally left blank

"YAPH" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 06 May 2009 19:02:34 +0100, Dave Osborne wrote:

Might be easier/cheaper though just to cover over the plasterboard at
the back of the airing cupboard with a piece of 12mm WBP plywood (the
width of the cupboard if possible, resting on the floor and as high as
the top of the new boiler) and fix it to the plasterboard with
sticks-like-****/a bunch of whirlies/screws into studs or noggings as
appropriate. Paint the plywood with undercoat and gloss. Mr boilerman
can use spring toggles for the boiler.

... and ride away into the sunset with his spurs jangling.

Not this boilerman thank you. Secure, non-combustible surface please.



--
John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk

This sig intentionally left blank

Any suggested board?

YAPH wrote:
On Wed, 06 May 2009 19:02:34 +0100, Dave Osborne wrote:

Might be easier/cheaper though just to cover over the plasterboard at
the back of the airing cupboard with a piece of 12mm WBP plywood (the
width of the cupboard if possible, resting on the floor and as high as
the top of the new boiler) and fix it to the plasterboard with
sticks-like-****/a bunch of whirlies/screws into studs or noggings as
appropriate. Paint the plywood with undercoat and gloss. Mr boilerman
can use spring toggles for the boiler.

... and ride away into the sunset with his spurs jangling.

Not this boilerman thank you. Secure, non-combustible surface please.




If you did it properly, there's no question it would be secure. The
weight would be on the floor. Bonding to the plasterboard would only be
required to stop the plywood from pulling away and the spring toggles
would prevent that all on their own. So the no-more-nails, screws etc
would be largely redundant anyway.

You could add another layer of plasterboard over the top of the plywood
if the gas regs require a non-combustible surface.

"Dave Osborne" wrote in message
...
YAPH wrote:
On Wed, 06 May 2009 19:02:34 +0100, Dave Osborne wrote:

Might be easier/cheaper though just to cover over the plasterboard at
the back of the airing cupboard with a piece of 12mm WBP plywood (the
width of the cupboard if possible, resting on the floor and as high as
the top of the new boiler) and fix it to the plasterboard with
sticks-like-****/a bunch of whirlies/screws into studs or noggings as
appropriate. Paint the plywood with undercoat and gloss. Mr boilerman
can use spring toggles for the boiler.

... and ride away into the sunset with his spurs jangling.

Not this boilerman thank you. Secure, non-combustible surface please.




If you did it properly, there's no question it would be secure. The weight
would be on the floor. Bonding to the plasterboard would only be required
to stop the plywood from pulling away and the spring toggles would prevent
that all on their own. So the no-more-nails, screws etc would be largely
redundant anyway.

You could add another layer of plasterboard over the top of the plywood if
the gas regs require a non-combustible surface.


However - another consideration could be the noise transmission into the
adjoining bedroom. Having it on the floor makes sound transmission less
likely.

In article ,
YAPH wrote:
On Wed, 06 May 2009 19:02:34 +0100, Dave Osborne wrote:

Might be easier/cheaper though just to cover over the plasterboard at
the back of the airing cupboard with a piece of 12mm WBP plywood (the
width of the cupboard if possible, resting on the floor and as high as
the top of the new boiler) and fix it to the plasterboard with
sticks-like-****/a bunch of whirlies/screws into studs or noggings as
appropriate. Paint the plywood with undercoat and gloss. Mr boilerman
can use spring toggles for the boiler.

... and ride away into the sunset with his spurs jangling.

Not this boilerman thank you. Secure, non-combustible surface please.

Surely the boiler casing and design provides the second function? After
all plenty of floor standing ones on wooden floors.

--
*Be nice to your kids. They'll choose your nursing home.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thu, 07 May 2009 09:25:08 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Surely the boiler casing and design provides the second function? After
all plenty of floor standing ones on wooden floors.

All depends on the MIs: if they say non-combustible surface (whether wall
or floor) then dat is de law.

--
John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk

I used to be forgetful but now I ... um ....