Following on from my problem yesterday with the rad Bleed Screw
failing I decided to do what I had intended doing soon anyway .
I switched the boiler off ( and power too) and shut the cold water
inlet .I then opened the drain valve and the rad valves and bleed
screws as well. This the first time I have drained the system and I
noticed that the valve only turns about one half turn whereas I'd have
expected it to turn more .
The valve was fitted by the guy who fitted the boiler about 18 months
ago and it can be seen here .
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...n/IMGP0108.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...n/IMGP0109.jpg
I removed the handle to make it easier to see.

The system is the two 22mm pipes from boiler to hall and 10/12mm from
that point on via a manifold . The new rad in the hall is not
connected up yet so I opened up the old valves ( as they need to be
removed ) and there was water coming out so I continued draining them
until they stopped running. I then cut in to a 10mm pipe leading to
another rad that I was removing and water came out from the boiler
side of that pipe and showed little sign of stopping so I closed the
pipe with molegrips . I've decided to leave it for a while .
Is there something I am missing here .All the rads are drained so the
problem appears to be between the hall and the drain . Is it possible
the drain valve is only opening partially and I just need to leave it
longer ...but it has been open all night !!! The cold inlet is
definitely closed properly .
Any ideas ?





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Stuart B wrote:
Following on from my problem yesterday with the rad Bleed Screw
failing I decided to do what I had intended doing soon anyway .
I switched the boiler off ( and power too) and shut the cold water
inlet .I then opened the drain valve and the rad valves and bleed
screws as well. This the first time I have drained the system and I
noticed that the valve only turns about one half turn whereas I'd have
expected it to turn more .
The valve was fitted by the guy who fitted the boiler about 18 months
ago and it can be seen here .
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...n/IMGP0108.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...n/IMGP0109.jpg
I removed the handle to make it easier to see.

The system is the two 22mm pipes from boiler to hall and 10/12mm from
that point on via a manifold . The new rad in the hall is not
connected up yet so I opened up the old valves ( as they need to be
removed ) and there was water coming out so I continued draining them
until they stopped running. I then cut in to a 10mm pipe leading to
another rad that I was removing and water came out from the boiler
side of that pipe and showed little sign of stopping so I closed the
pipe with molegrips . I've decided to leave it for a while .
Is there something I am missing here .All the rads are drained so the
problem appears to be between the hall and the drain . Is it possible
the drain valve is only opening partially and I just need to leave it
longer ...but it has been open all night !!! The cold inlet is
definitely closed properly .
Any ideas ?





--------------
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but other than by newsindividual.net is not being posted by me and should be disregarded .
Remove NOSPAM to reply by e-mail
The valve should open fully but it is a gate valve- notorious fo jamming
due to build-up with crud.
Open the valve body using the large, rough cast hexagon to clear the the
cause of the jam.
For preference fit a full flow 1/4 turn valve in its place whilst you
have the system drained down. These tend to clean the crud as you
operate them. There is usually an arrow on the body to show the optimum
orientation.
eg:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/17293/...all-Valve-22mm
HTH

Bob

On Mon, 13 Apr 2009 16:56:37 +0100, Bob Minchin
wrote:

Stuart B wrote:
Following on from my problem yesterday with the rad Bleed Screw
failing I decided to do what I had intended doing soon anyway .
I switched the boiler off ( and power too) and shut the cold water
inlet .I then opened the drain valve and the rad valves and bleed
screws as well. This the first time I have drained the system and I
noticed that the valve only turns about one half turn whereas I'd have
expected it to turn more .
The valve was fitted by the guy who fitted the boiler about 18 months
ago and it can be seen here .
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...n/IMGP0108.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...n/IMGP0109.jpg
I removed the handle to make it easier to see.

The system is the two 22mm pipes from boiler to hall and 10/12mm from
that point on via a manifold . The new rad in the hall is not
connected up yet so I opened up the old valves ( as they need to be
removed ) and there was water coming out so I continued draining them
until they stopped running. I then cut in to a 10mm pipe leading to
another rad that I was removing and water came out from the boiler
side of that pipe and showed little sign of stopping so I closed the
pipe with molegrips . I've decided to leave it for a while .
Is there something I am missing here .All the rads are drained so the
problem appears to be between the hall and the drain . Is it possible
the drain valve is only opening partially and I just need to leave it
longer ...but it has been open all night !!! The cold inlet is
definitely closed properly .
Any ideas ?





--------------
Any posting using my name and/or e-mail address
but other than by newsindividual.net is not being posted by me and should be disregarded .
Remove NOSPAM to reply by e-mail
The valve should open fully but it is a gate valve- notorious fo jamming
due to build-up with crud.
Open the valve body using the large, rough cast hexagon to clear the the
cause of the jam.
For preference fit a full flow 1/4 turn valve in its place whilst you
have the system drained down. These tend to clean the crud as you
operate them. There is usually an arrow on the body to show the optimum
orientation.
eg:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/17293/...all-Valve-22mm
HTH

Bob

Thx Bob ...Other than the vlave problem which I'll do what you suggest
I sorted the problem with the water still coming out the cut pipe .I
just bit the bullet and cut it right through and several bowlfuls of
water later it stopped . It could be ,apart from the valve ,that the
22mm flow and return pipes don't have any or enough run on them so the
water is lying in them and not draining away but then again it might
just be the valve .





--------------
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but other than by newsindividual.net is not being posted by me and should be disregarded .
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Bob Minchin wrote:
Stuart B wrote:
SNIP
The valve should open fully but it is a gate valve- notorious fo
jamming due to build-up with crud.

Notorious for being a pain in the bum, poxy, spawn of satan, useless piggin
objects :-(



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Mon, 13 Apr 2009 17:56:48 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

The valve should open fully but it is a gate valve- notorious fo
jamming due to build-up with crud.

Notorious for being a pain in the bum, poxy, spawn of satan, useless
piggin objects :-(

Come on now Dave say what you really mean... B-)

Which reminds me have I excercised the damn things I have this year? What
really fups gate valves up is not being opened/closed at least once/year
and when left open left with the gate fully up not backed down a 1/4 or
1/2 a turn. Of course neither of these things happen in most places so by
they time they are needed they are seized solid or have so much crud on
them they won't shut off properly.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 13 Apr 2009 17:56:48 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

The valve should open fully but it is a gate valve- notorious fo
jamming due to build-up with crud.

Notorious for being a pain in the bum, poxy, spawn of satan, useless
piggin objects :-(

Come on now Dave say what you really mean... B-)

I'm being generous already :-)


Which reminds me have I excercised the damn things I have this year?
What really fups gate valves up is not being opened/closed at least
once/year and when left open left with the gate fully up not backed
down a 1/4 or 1/2 a turn. Of course neither of these things happen in
most places so by they time they are needed they are seized solid or
have so much crud on them they won't shut off properly.

Worse thing is, the buggers shut off & then the spindle snaps under the
strain, andthey won't open again. I hate the poxy things with a rengance.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"The Medway Handyman" wrote

The valve should open fully but it is a gate valve- notorious fo
jamming due to build-up with crud.

Notorious for being a pain in the bum, poxy, spawn of satan, useless
piggin objects :-(



I'm also having issues with "service" valves recently. 2 have started
weaping past the valve stem such that drops of water appear on top of the
slotted screw-head type closure thingy. FWIW, I have a similar problem with
the 90 degree special valves supplied with the Magna Clean filter in the CH
system .

Phil